Yes, I polished my chamber out .002 and all of my problems went away.
It's not a problem with whidden dies.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
300 PRC update
- Thread starter DAVETOOLEY
- Start date
Yes, I polished my chamber out .002 and all of my problems went away.
It's not a problem with whidden dies.
Hornady Match Brass .300 PRC 225-Grain 20-Rounds ELD-M
Hornady's Match ammunition features extremely tight tolerances and strict quality control for superior lot-to-lot consistency. This .300 PRC rifle ammo features a 225 grain ELD-M projectile, brass casing, and comes with 20 rounds per box. Buy ammo online and .300 PRC ammo for sale from GrabAGun...
grabagun.com
Not the worst price i've seen... definitely not the best.
Ordered, thanks.Hornady Match Brass .300 PRC 225-Grain 20-Rounds ELD-M
Hornady's Match ammunition features extremely tight tolerances and strict quality control for superior lot-to-lot consistency. This .300 PRC rifle ammo features a 225 grain ELD-M projectile, brass casing, and comes with 20 rounds per box. Buy ammo online and .300 PRC ammo for sale from GrabAGun...
Not the worst price i've seen... definitely not the best.
Spun the barrel on a lathe and used various girts of sand paper wrapped around a dowel I tapered. Finished with a nice polish that was about the same as the rest of the chamber. All of my clickers went away. (I am not expert by any means...fyi)
I even got whidden to make me a custom die, that has a smaller web diameter, however even running the brass though this it refused to get smaller. My guess just being the ADG was tough enough it was springing back. My chamber also measured on the bottom bottom of SAAMI spec, basically exactly .533. So good job to the gunsmith...
That thread by Alex Wheeler is 100% spot on, it's a reamer spec problem. And we are talking about 2 thou ish making all of the difference.
It's Saturday and again most of the guys are here working.I guess Bartlein picked up the pace, or I got lucky. It's been less than two months and my barrel has shipped. Maybe I just happened to pick a contour and caliber they had ready.
In some cases if a order gets cancelled and the barrels have already been started and or finished will go thru the orders and put the barrels on the oldest matching order. Doesn't happen a lot but will happen once in a blew moon.
Also if we are working on a large order for a customer (lets say it's a 100pc order) we will automatically throw and extra couple of barrel blanks on the order...that way if we lose one during the run for that customer.....we are not scrambling to get one made to make the order complete but any extras if they match up with another order....will put it on that order.
Sometimes it's timing and luck of the draw when you place the order and what is being worked on out in the shop.
All that being said guys.....the gun industry is upside down flat out busy and I don't for see it getting any better anytime soon.
Thanks for buying the sticks!
Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
I love that level of transparency Frank. Keep up the great work and products.
Did you do the polishing yourself, and if so, how did you measure your progress?
Edit: should have kept reading. Still curious about the measuring though.
Last edited:
Wrap a single layer of 1/4” strip of scotch tape (3M 600) around a case (or ideally go gauge) with one edge aligned with the base of the rim, and polish until it fits?
Just a silly thought but....
For the most part your polishing a taper. So what kind of plug gauge you going to get?
Not poking at you at all.
Im no expert and may be over simplifying it in my mind but couldnt you get a guage say around .5330+/- and see how far in it goes?
Just the tip?
your killing me!Using just the tip...will get you in trouble
I'd say yes but with a hard edge....how you gonna get a accurate reading with the gauge tipping/moving around.
I'd suggest doing it with a ball gage. Get the proper ball gauge (let's say it's .533"). Measure how far it goes in from say the breech face.
Now if you polish the chamber....drop the ball gauge in and see if how far it went in changed at all. You can get an idea of what is going on in my opinion that way better.
4 kids, trust me i know.Using just the tip...will get you in trouble
Frank suggests balls instead.
Either way its only going in about a 1/4". I could probably 3D print a jig to hold it perpendicular to the breech face. sort of like a poor mans depth micrometer.
man I’ve had my 300PRC for like two years now and finally got the powder I wanted and just got the time to get a load workout. 147yds for my preliminary load development.
I was able to get 3040fps with 230 hybrids and RL26 but well into pressure. 2970 is about when pressure starts to show. I want to be around 2870. RCC brass
I was able to get 3040fps with 230 hybrids and RL26 but well into pressure. 2970 is about when pressure starts to show. I want to be around 2870. RCC brass
I remember another member here using RCC brass. If they’re still around, curious how they’re anneal their brass.
I have an AMP so this isn’t a question about annealing. This brass is made of a strong alloy and requires hotter temps
I have an AMP so this isn’t a question about annealing. This brass is made of a strong alloy and requires hotter temps
This is exactly what I do to use the Lee Collet die for made for 6.5 Creed in order to neck size 6.5 PRC.
Just make sure the washer allows for enough of the neck to get sized yet not too little thickness that you start to buckle shoulders.
Same here ... I have "TT Diamonds" in all of my precision rifles and love them ... no issues whatsoever. I squeeze - Gun go BANG !!!
Looking a little closer at it, I think I’d have the opposite problem as the neck shoulder junction on the PRC is just slightly shorter than the winmag (.080 or so). It should probably work as is, although sizing that much less of the neck. Depending on how much vertical play there is in the shell holder I could probably make it pretty close to the same.
Yeah either grind it down or add a thin smaller washer that sits inside the shell holder between the base of the holder and the case head. I’d be surprised if I could fit a .05” washer in there, though I haven’t yet tried.
Like 2aBaCa said though, it might just be worth leaving it as is, depending on just how much of the neck ends ups going unsized.
Anybody notice that the on and off availability of various random powders online over the last few weeks has resulted in an increased offering of those same powders on gunbroker? Gouging twats!
Got it all dialed in for a match and then got called to deploy early so I can’t go to the match. MotherF$&@er
Just got mine built ten minutes ago, need to get a lower Spuhr mount. Time to start reloading and hit the range tomorrow.
Schmidt & Bender 5-45 x56, Tenebraex ARD and polarizer
Spuhr 1.5" mount (stolen from my AXMC, replacing with a 1.181")
Defiance Deviant Tactical with CRF, 30 MOA rail, long tactical bolt handle and nitriding
Bartlein 28" 400MOD 5R 1.25" bull barrel 1 in 9 twist Cerakoted graphite black
FAT BASTARD gen 3 (this will be loud.)
Trigger Tech Dimond two stage, flat trigger, PVD
MDT ACC with full channel weights, buttstock weight and bag rider
Ckye-Pod gen 1
MDT straight grip
Weighs 26.1 pounds, does not look it but I weighed it.
I would like to thank @b2lee ,@Frank Green from Bartlein, Josh from MDT, Norm from Defiance, Russ and Greg from Southern Precision Rifles, Jerry from S&B and all the members here for their advice, opinions, support and fellowship.
Schmidt & Bender 5-45 x56, Tenebraex ARD and polarizer
Spuhr 1.5" mount (stolen from my AXMC, replacing with a 1.181")
Defiance Deviant Tactical with CRF, 30 MOA rail, long tactical bolt handle and nitriding
Bartlein 28" 400MOD 5R 1.25" bull barrel 1 in 9 twist Cerakoted graphite black
FAT BASTARD gen 3 (this will be loud.)
Trigger Tech Dimond two stage, flat trigger, PVD
MDT ACC with full channel weights, buttstock weight and bag rider
Ckye-Pod gen 1
MDT straight grip
Weighs 26.1 pounds, does not look it but I weighed it.
I would like to thank @b2lee ,@Frank Green from Bartlein, Josh from MDT, Norm from Defiance, Russ and Greg from Southern Precision Rifles, Jerry from S&B and all the members here for their advice, opinions, support and fellowship.
Last edited:
Nice! Waiting on my barrel
was supposed to have been back last week. Smith says Monday. I've been farting around at the reloading bench making sure everything is in order. Only thing to do now is drop powder and seat some bullets. I really don't want to do that until I have the rifle in front of me.
Going to have to take my 300WM out tomorrow and practice wind calls out to a mile. Always a great time. Wish it was my 300PRC.
Dude!! You and me both, makes no sense having .5cm on the dial is weird and a little embarrassing.
So I have a question for whoever. I've got a limited supply if reloader 26 (4lbs) and H1000 (7lbs). I've also got about 7.5lbs of H4831sc. Should I save my rl26 and H1000 until after I've fire formed my brass or should I just start working up a load with each? I really don't want to waste any powder right now and could use the H4831sc to fire form. The H4831sc does well in my 300WM but not as good as the H1000. I was going to use it as my backup powder.
I'm undecided on which one to use.
I'm undecided on which one to use.
I have to assume they do it in cm because they’ll run out of space on the turret with all the extra digits for mils??
Naw, if you look closely at the turrent it is a five turn turrent and fully indicated.
first question, is it a new barrel? If so then use a different powder to break in the barrel. When I say brake the barrel in, I mean shoot 25-50 rounds to speed the barrel up. Also a good time to fire form cases. Use this as a training evolution and practice wind calls, long range spotting, etc
Then use your limited powders to start load development.
all my barrels tend to speed up regardless of my cleaning schedule which is why I suggest putting 25-50 rounds down the tube. I hate developing a load just to find out it sped up 40 FPS or whatever
If you had a small enough paint pen you could put a decimal in there. I’ve only seen images online of the turret. I would easily screw up a firing solution thinking in mils and dialing in cm. My mind just doesn’t think in 0.05 mils to begin with and now I’d have to force myself that it’s really just 5. 10 is 1mil. I guess I could get used to it but it’s annoying.
It is a new barrel and I've got 5 boxes of 212gr precision hunter that I can use to break it in with and fire form that brass. I also have 100 new Hornaday brass with half of them being necked down 375 Ruger cases. I will have to do some comparison with fire formed brass to virgin brass and see what I can figure out. Thanks for the input.
JB, those are some awesome groups. What is your average runout? I’m still trying to get my setup dialed for the PRC and I’m ranging .003-.006. I’ve always aimed to get to .001-.002. Trying to decide how far down the runout rabbit hole I want to go. My groups look like shit though and I suspect run out is a likely culprit.
I have never measured run out. I do want to get a measuring device for fun. There’s one out there that can also tap the bullet to fix runout but I can’t remember what it’s called.
I do believe bullet alignment is really important but idk how many hairs need to be split for it to really matter.
Take your expander button out of your full length sizer die and throw it in the trash...and then use a mandrel after sizing....and you'll see most...if not all of your neck/bullet runout go away. Using a decent seater die that supports the shoulder and body and creates proper alignment....and you won't see run out.
I don’t use the expander in my sizer die. My plan is to switch to a Lee collet die this week and see what happens (going to use the 300wm die). Seating with the RCBS matchmaster. When you say run a mandrel through it what are you using to do that? I have a Sinclair expander but that wouldn’t do anything to fireformed necks. I checked my brass from today’s trip after firing and the necks had .001-.002 runout near the case mouth. The brass is on its fourth firing and I turned off all the high spots right at the start. Maybe it’s time to turn them again...
Every time I come back from the range I always seem to have more questions than answers. This was a seating depth test I ran this morning. Clearly the rifle likes a .002” (2.916” CBTO) jump, but what is most confusing to me is the dramatic POI shift. The rest of the groups are pretty crappy, but I’m not understanding how the group could move that much at 100 yards just by seating .010” deeper. By the way, the group labeled 2.916 averaged .005-.006” runout. Again... more questions than answers.
Attachments
it’s hard to diagnose things like this.
Jump test can show some weird POI shifts.
One thing I learned when shooting magnum cartridges up to cheytac sized cartridges is how important is it to control the rear of the rifle. Just changing my technique with that alone changes my POI and group size
also in my experience magnum and larger cartridges do not like long skinny light contoured barrels. This could be more than one thing going on. Maybe it’s something to do with barrel harmonics. Maybe it’s something to do with recoil management. Maybe it’s both. The Swiss cheese effect
so for me, if both those issues were present and also doing a jump test, I would see some wild groups
im just throwing stuff to see if one of these sticks
Below is a jump test with a 33XC with a light contoured barrel at 160yds. While one group looks decent, I could not get the rifle to shoot with Berger Hybrids or Hornady ATIPS. I have much thicker barrels on order.
Jump test can show some weird POI shifts.
One thing I learned when shooting magnum cartridges up to cheytac sized cartridges is how important is it to control the rear of the rifle. Just changing my technique with that alone changes my POI and group size
also in my experience magnum and larger cartridges do not like long skinny light contoured barrels. This could be more than one thing going on. Maybe it’s something to do with barrel harmonics. Maybe it’s something to do with recoil management. Maybe it’s both. The Swiss cheese effect
so for me, if both those issues were present and also doing a jump test, I would see some wild groups
im just throwing stuff to see if one of these sticks
Below is a jump test with a 33XC with a light contoured barrel at 160yds. While one group looks decent, I could not get the rifle to shoot with Berger Hybrids or Hornady ATIPS. I have much thicker barrels on order.
Interesting. I’m shooting off a proned out RRS in an anvil and have the rifle pretty well in my shoulder and taking most of the recoil. I’m able to support the rear with part of a fist between the rider and the ground. Feels very solid.
The barrel is a 24” Proof carbon sendero contour, so not super skinny.
78 rounds down the barrel as of today. Maybe something to do with break-in?
Guess I’ll load up some more of the 2.916s and see if I can’t reproduce that and keep consistent POI. It’s just weird to see such a dramatic shift at 100 yards with such a slight seating depth change.
I’ve shot a proof carbon barrel in the past.
I remember it not shooting so great but my reloading abilities have increased 100 fold since. I have one on order and I should be getting it in May. It’ll be interesting to see how it shoots.
but maybe it’s worth checking all your torques: action screws, scope base, scope rings, barrel torque, muzzle device(s), etc.
Parallax wouldn’t cause that big of a shift. Hopefully there’s no mechanical issues inside the scope.
sometimes barrels just hate the bullet & powder combination.
I remember it not shooting so great but my reloading abilities have increased 100 fold since. I have one on order and I should be getting it in May. It’ll be interesting to see how it shoots.
but maybe it’s worth checking all your torques: action screws, scope base, scope rings, barrel torque, muzzle device(s), etc.
Parallax wouldn’t cause that big of a shift. Hopefully there’s no mechanical issues inside the scope.
sometimes barrels just hate the bullet & powder combination.
Was just putting my rifle in the rest after getting home and noticed my brake looked crooked. Sure enough it was loose. It hadn’t spun more than an 8th of a turn but it was loose nonetheless. I bet that is the culprit for the POI shift. Glad I didn’t get a baffle strike. Time for some plumbers tape.
Similar threads
