6.5 Creedmoor

CBTO is 2.185” and I use the new version non-binder plate MDT magazines
This was 12 round group out of it a the range yesterday
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There are more available now as I know Impact Data Books has Garmins in stock now but the Magnetospeed works just fine. Been using them for many years. Used to attach to the barrel but now attach via arca mount. You just need to use the rod to make sure your bullet has clearance and then look down the bore to make sure you can't see the bayonet.
Did this test again today...
Berger 140 ht, Lapua SRP, CCI450, H4350 … Five rounds each weight of 39.6-39.8-40.0-40.2-40.4-40.6-40.8
COAL 2.8” …CBTO 2.093+-

Three lowest SD's
Are these good considered a good SD?......@ 39.8 SD was 5.4 (2626-2630-2632-2622-2619)
@ 40.2 SD was 5.54 (2671-2676-2681-2186-2191)
@ 40.6 SD was 6.08 (2708-2718-2708-2721-2710)
 
Did this test again today...
Berger 140 ht, Lapua SRP, CCI450, H4350 … Five rounds each weight of 39.6-39.8-40.0-40.2-40.4-40.6-40.8
COAL 2.8” …CBTO 2.093+-

Three lowest SD's
Are these good considered a good SD?......@ 39.8 SD was 5.4 (2626-2630-2632-2622-2619)
@ 40.2 SD was 5.54 (2671-2676-2681-2186-2191)
@ 40.6 SD was 6.08 (2708-2718-2708-2721-2710)
That 40.2 Data looks off. Typo on the last two velocity inputs?
 
Did this test again today...
Berger 140 ht, Lapua SRP, CCI450, H4350 … Five rounds each weight of 39.6-39.8-40.0-40.2-40.4-40.6-40.8
COAL 2.8” …CBTO 2.093+-

Three lowest SD's
Are these good considered a good SD?......@ 39.8 SD was 5.4 (2626-2630-2632-2622-2619)
@ 40.2 SD was 5.54 (2671-2676-2681-2186-2191)
@ 40.6 SD was 6.08 (2708-2718-2708-2721-2710)
Yeah they are considered good, but with 5 shots it doesn't mean a lot. If you did that with 20 or 30 shots and got that same SD it would be very good.
 
An impressive SD for 10 rounds. What are you using to measure your powder? What primer are you us
That 40.2 Data looks off. Typo on the last two velocity inputs?
No they are what the Magneto speed captured. BUT...I am newish to reloading and I will say that I am using an auto trickler and i set it to 40.2...sometimes it throws a tad more or a tad less...i.e it might have thrown 40.29 or 40.27 .... I'm trying to be realistic when doing the test....does everyone buy these fancy machines and still baby sit them to the exact grain? That is a sincere question.... If i buy a box of Hornady 140s am I getting an exact grain count or am I getting the same variable?
 
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No they are what the Magneto speed captured. BUT...I am newish to reloading and I will say that I am using an auto trickler and i set it to 40.2...sometimes it throws a tad more or a tad less...i.e it might have thrown 40.29 or 40.27 .... I'm trying to be realistic when doing the test....does everyone buy these fancy machines and still baby sit them to the exact grain? That is a sincere question.... If i buy a box of Hornady 140s am I getting an exact grain count or am I getting the same variable?
I don’t do the fancy machine. I bought a nice electronic scale accurate to .02 grain, and I keep a close eye on the weight after I lift the pan off the scale. It should always read a negative weight of the pan, and if it drifts a bit I return the powder to the source and re-zero the scale. Keep an eye out for “wind” from a/c or heater or fans as that will introduce a variable you cannot adjust for. I shut down the a/c when reloading.
 
No they are what the Magneto speed captured. BUT...I am newish to reloading and I will say that I am using an auto trickler and i set it to 40.2...sometimes it throws a tad more or a tad less...i.e it might have thrown 40.29 or 40.27 .... I'm trying to be realistic when doing the test....does everyone buy these fancy machines and still baby sit them to the exact grain? That is a sincere question.... If i buy a box of Hornady 140s am I getting an exact grain count or am I getting the same variable?
No they are what the Magneto speed captured. BUT...I am newish to reloading and I will say that I am using an auto trickler and i set it to 40.2...sometimes it throws a tad more or a tad less...i.e it might have thrown 40.29 or 40.27 .... I'm trying to be realistic when doing the test....does everyone buy these fancy machines and still baby sit them to the exact grain? That is a sincere question.... If i buy a box of Hornady 140s am I getting an exact grain count or am I getting the same variable?
The 40.2 numbers are most definitely wrong.
Those 5 shots with the velocity you have listed would give a SD of 267.
If the MagnetoSpeed gave you the SD of 5.54, then it read the speeds correctly and either displayed them incorrectly or you misread them.
 
The 40.2 numbers are most definitely wrong.
Those 5 shots with the velocity you have listed would give a SD of 267.
If the MagnetoSpeed gave you the SD of 5.54, then it read the speeds correctly and either displayed them incorrectly or you misread them.
Thank you for the info. I will look at the data again…additionally I am going to rerun the test And look closer at the throw numbers to test consistency there as well.
 
Went through some of these pages and looked at some results from others. I am not getting the speeds others are getting from h4350. I'm still pretty new to reloading. My barrel is 24" and has around 260rds through it. Staball seems to get good speeds but everything I read, people are saying h4350 hangs right with staball. Do I need to venture above the book max to find a good load in the mid 2700's? Here's my data from today.
Screenshot_20240218_230241_Gallery.jpg
 
Went through some of these pages and looked at some results from others. I am not getting the speeds others are getting from h4350. I'm still pretty new to reloading. My barrel is 24" and has around 260rds through it. Staball seems to get good speeds but everything I read, people are saying h4350 hangs right with staball. Do I need to venture above the book max to find a good load in the mid 2700's? Here's my data from today.
View attachment 8352572
What rifle/barrel?? Hammer forged like Ruger RPR & Tika's can be -100fps vs a Barlein etc.
 
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Howa barreled action from brownells.
Hopefully someone with first hand experience on a Howa will chime in.

I just want to make sure your not trying to match the speeds you've seen posted here for SS cut or buttoned barrels. You wont get there with a hammer forged barrel typically.

I not sure if Howa's are hammer forged, but suspect they are & may be on the slow side, but not sure about Howa.

Tika's are notoriously slow.

2700 from your 24" with 140's is pretty decent 41.8 - 42.2 H4350. RL16 would get you a few more FPS but Alliant's pricing is just stupid right now.
 
If it's just the make of the barrel then that answers my question pretty well I think. I was hoping to get the h4350 to match the speed of staball. I've already seen the temperature affect the velocity using staball and was hoping to have a more temp stable load. Oh well the staball does shoot good out of this rifle.
 
If it's just the make of the barrel then that answers my question pretty well I think. I was hoping to get the h4350 to match the speed of staball. I've already seen the temperature affect the velocity using staball and was hoping to have a more temp stable load. Oh well the staball does shoot good out of this rifle.
What distance are you shooting to need more speed?
I was shooting 1000Y with my low node 2667fps with a 147 ELD-M.
If you don't need the speed save your barrel and components.
 
Used to be accuracy and predictability were the primary concerns. Now I am not so sure for some.
Yes sir,"not sure for some" I call it "magnumnitis" , from trying to make a 45 Magnum out of a 45 Colt , that was some 50 years ago to using a chronograph strictly for bragging rights " and not concerned about hitting anything smaller that a 5 Gal. bucket at 100 Yds , which they will tell their buddies was 2000 Yds. All the while counting on gravity to hit the ground. Who was it that said "Only accurate rifles are interesting"?
 
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….There’s a difference between trying to turn a CM into a PRC, and being new and trying to figure out why your results don’t match the common results or factory ammo.

I get a little more speed out of staball than 4350, my 4350 loads always ran a touch slower than the “standard” 2750 with 140s unless I pushed past book max. I run 130/136s now.
 
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Yes sir,"not sure for some" I call it "magnumnitis" , from trying to make a 45 Magnum out of a 45 Colt , that was some 50 years ago to using a chronograph strictly for bragging rights " and not concerned about hitting anything smaller that a 5 Gal. bucket at 100 Yds , which they will tell their buddies was 2000 Yds. All the while counting on gravity to hit the ground. Who was it that said "Only accurate rifles are interesting"?
Well said! Wasn’t that old man Hornady? I knew that once, but my memory is very suspect these days.
 
I am looking forward to the release of the 100 gr ELD-VT from Hornady for coyote hunting. Going to post data for a 12.5" Christensen and 24" Proof. Both suppressed. If anybody gets ahold of them before me, please post your findings. I want to find a good temp-insensitive powder since I'll be using it year-round that still provides enough speed for the short barrel of the Christensen.
 
Berger 153.5
Lapua virgin brass
40.5 H4350
CCI 450
2.1950 BTO (80 thou off)

26" Proof Prefit.
Hoping to see this tube speed up a touch and get the ES a little lower.
Groups are at 200 yards. Bigger group with the two flyers is off a tripod.
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I’m shooting SMK 150s w 42.5gr of RL16 through a 26” 7.5tw barrel at roughly 2815. The shoot lights out! I’ve had them out to over 1700yrs wo a problem. I really think the SMKs are super overlooked!
What make/model barrel did you settle on? I've scoured for months looking to snag a 7.5t in stock or slightly used. May have to get one spun up talked to Owen at Front Range may go that route.
 
So I'm building an AR-10 this month off a Craddock Precision RTR 22" 1:8 twist 6.5 creed barrel

I'm mostly going to use what i can find obviously, which is mostly N555, Staball 6.5, some H4350 and if I can find some, I'd love to use RL16.

The factory ammo i have on hand to break in the barrel and get some numbers with is all from Berger, 130gr OTM and 144gr hybrid(had a deal from hunts long range).

For those shooting a semi auto, what's your go to loads and starting points to work from that you've found to work well?
 
40.5gr H4350 and Berger 156gr EOL’s were averaging 2688fps for a PRS match last weekend. Went 11/11 on MOA sized targets at 500(2)/700(2)1000(3)800(2)600(2). Largest wind hold was only .3mils left at 1000yd and the rest were .1mil. The 156’s and a 7.5 twist barrel are turning out to be a very consistent combination less than 900rds in to my new Bartlein. Spotters said I printed a 2” 3 shot group on the 1000yd plate.
 
I have come across very good results with my AR Creedmoor, 22" Rainer Arms barrel, using N555 from 42 to 43 grains. I have not shot it since 8/22 but plan on getting back to it this year. Prior to N555 I tried RL17 and H4350 but they could not match N555 for group size, SD nor ES. Good luck
what velocity are you getting with the 140's at that charge range?
 
Magnum. I only run 450’s in all my short action calibers


Thanks for the info. (y)


I don't have a tremendous primer stash....but stocked up as I could prior to the BLM rioting / covid era.
My thoughts then were to secure components for my handguns and AR-15 with some additional LRP for my hunting rifles.

Long range steel banging wasn't in my wheelhouse at that time....but certainly is now.

I was hoping to be able to use standard small rifle primers in order to cut down on the money currently going to new glass, range finder, triggers, etc.

Sounds like I need to put SRP-Magnums on the shopping radar, too.
 
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Well men, as of about an hour ago, I am officially out of the 6.5 Creedmoor business. Sold my RPR and have re-barreled the MPA with a 6GT barrel. Not sure how I feel about this choice, but it’s been made. Main reason, too much time spent trying to keep two different caliber rifles in ammo. So, everything that is precision is GT. They are both ok with the same loadings, maybe not totally optimized but I don’t shoot Bench Rest of F Class but both do hit steel out to a 1000 yards or more and that is what counts.

What I will say and will say it to my death. The RPR and MPA were the most accurate rifles I have ever owned. The 6.5 Creedmoor was also the most tolerant / easiest to load for round, I have ever come across in my 52 years of reloading and 59 years of shooting centerfire rifles.
Well Men, as of February 3rd, I got back in the 6.5 Creedmoor business. Sold my last, the RPR and guess what. The buyer was a non-payer. Called, sent emails, even was able to talk with his employer, who said his mother also worked for him and he would get to him and get right back to me.

Never heard another word, from any of them. So, I sent a final notice to the buyer, gave him another week. The week passed without a word so I closed out the sale as a no-sale with gunbroker. I gave the buyer an ”F” rating on gunbroker, applied for credit for the sales tax and handling fee that gunbroker charged me for the sale and did in fact get that charge returned.

And, in a few weeks, I will have a picture of the new RPR. Complete rebuild making it as light as possible for Brenda to shoot. Gonna look good, and hopefully with its new Proof barrel, shoot as good as it did before. Give y’all a hint, won’t be red. Getting back to the earth.
 
Where should I go from here?
I only had 100 bullets and I had lost my previous data.
Barrel is a 24” 1-7.5” twist IBI
OCW test Nosler 140 RDF, H4350, BR-4, Lapua brass.

If you click on the target it will bring you to to photo bucket with better resolution.
IMG_8959.jpeg

 
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Where should I go from here?
I only had 100 bullets and I had lost my previous data.
Barrel is a 24” 1-7.5” twist IBI
OCW test Nosler 140 RDF, H4350, BR-4, Lapua brass.

If you click on the target it will bring you to to photo bucket with better resolution.
View attachment 8365379

I'd say 40.0 gr. and see where E.S. and S.D. are in relation to MOA and velocity . Just MY personal observation . Try #10 rounds and see if it's consistent .