.75 per bullet. Those are match bullets tho. I had a list of high bc hunting bullets. I know Barnes had one I think tipped game kings were on it and of corse ELDX
6.5 Creedmoor
- Thread starter Sportin Wood
- Start date
Yes they are match bullets. Load them and play the long range target game. Shoot the ABLR's for hunting.....same dope. You said IIRC that hunting shots wouldn't be much past 300y. As long as your speeds are close for both, there won't be a tenth difference between them at that range.
1: I have no clue what iirc means.
2: that’s not a bad idea. I may do that.
I’m looking at Speer impact tipped game kings and Berger’s eol line maybe grab a box of each see what happens
2: that’s not a bad idea. I may do that.
I’m looking at Speer impact tipped game kings and Berger’s eol line maybe grab a box of each see what happens
If I recall Correctly (IIRC).
The 156eol was tits for me -.020 from the lands, but those jokers are $$$
I told myself it's just for a hunting load...............then I built a 6.5PRC..........must have more 156eol's..........the cycle continues.
I’m worried they are too heavy. That’s a lot of money for a maybe. I’ve got 140 elites in cart same with the 130 tipped game kings (I think both are the blow up on impact type, I’d rather a bonded but we’ll see. I’m about to look into hammers. Heard they’re good never looked into and never shot a mono before
The Lapua 139 Scenar + H4350 or Vit N555 will hunt and shoot long range.
That would be my choice if worried about velocity or in a shorter barrel.
I hunt with PVA Cayugas over 4350. I like solids and used them in matches too, although they’ve gotten pricey.
Ok, yesterday I shot 70/100 rounds I had loaded up. Gma&Gpa came over yesterday and I had to get the grill going so I cut it off. Being super frustrated with the results yesterday I spent much of the evening pouring over other bullet options and looking up what others did to find success with this bullet. It seems everybody and their mother on the Nosler forum had the same issues as I’ve been having and the solution was to seat deeper… much deeper, ie sammi spec or a touch more. Here is my question:
I have 4 loads left (2@10 rounds 2@5 rounds) if I just seat the bullet deeper how worried do I have to be over over pressure? I’d be seating another 55k in. (I’d have to dbl check) but I believe one of those 4 loads is varget at max.
I have 4 loads left (2@10 rounds 2@5 rounds) if I just seat the bullet deeper how worried do I have to be over over pressure? I’d be seating another 55k in. (I’d have to dbl check) but I believe one of those 4 loads is varget at max.
I hunt hogs here in Texas with a 6.5 Creedmoor. My loads consistently shoot sub-MOA using Lapua brass, Hornady 153 A-Tips and H4350. This round makes a mess of some pretty big boars 250-350lbs... I'd use this round on anything on 4 legs....
Thinking about what twist is needed for the heavies, 144’s 153’s 156’s ? 8? 7 1/2?
I shoot a Bergara HMR PRO, 24" barrel with a 1 in 8 twist. The blind is about 200yrd to the feeder, but we shoot yotes and hogs out to 600+. I know the A-Tips are expensive but worth the money. I zeroed this rifle at 200yrds and still about 1" groups.
Ok I’m still working on this load (haven’t changed bullets yet because I still have another/my last 100) I seated way deeper (seemed to be the consensus on some other forums) and varget @36 gr printed really nice. 5 rd group at .88” that included a pulled shot that I called. Pull that out it’s 1/2 moa all day. I go to confirm group with another fiver (yes I know dispersion blah blah blah) and I called another pull though it wasn’t bad. The one I didn’t call was 2” high. The second group was so so but that one way out in fucking Greenland is bothering me. I can’t see a scenario in which I fuck up a shot that bad not know it before I look. And how do I have 2 (compared to the rest of my reloads) groups that look pretty damn good then have that go? My .270 with a burnt out barrel doesn’t do that shit no matter what ammo I buy. My thoughts are to push the powder a bit higher (I see no sign) and maybe fuck with the depth more
36gr Varget seems kind of light, what grain bullet are you using? have you chrono your loads? I've got questions about your reloading process... Do you sort your brass and bullets by weight? Do you trickle the powder for each round? Have you measured your chamber, and adjusted your seating depth? How far off the Lands are you seating your bullets? IMO Varget does not measure as accurate as H4350 or better yet Staball 6.5, the finer the grain the more accurate the measure. I use 147 ELD-M for range work, and 153 A-TIPs for hunting. When I load the 147's with 4350 they are @39gr with a velocity of approx. 2600, when I load Staball they are @42gr and approx. 2650. When you zero at 100yrds shoot 10rnds instead of 5.... better average. If you want real accuracy, 99% of it comes from consistency in your process and from the products you use.
I shoot 2-5 round groups
I am shooting over a chrono but it’s just a Caldwell
I have velocity data just not on me
Varget was slow as shit. Even tho it grouped the best I was going to abandon it as it seems everyone thinks it’s a bad idea to use on the heavies. I’m shooting a 142 gr Accubond L.R. I have measured my chamber. I originally loaded to 2.880 (for mags) read that these bullets like a lot of jump moved down to 2.825 (I’m measuring ogive so +/-. I trickle every round. Seat +/- 1/2 a thou. I don’t sort bullet or brass by weight. (Brass doesn’t make sense to me bullet does). I did measure my lands by using a dummy bullet and finding where it sticks and where it falls free. (I just started reloading.) my scale is an old frankland armory digital, that I used to weight sort my broadheads and arrows with. It seems to take awhile to decide how heavy something is. I’ve been thinking about replacing it. Any suggestions? I’ve got more loads on paper that I want to try. I stayed up all last night looking at posts from ten years ago on this thread. I’m not seeing any pressure signs (but I am new) so I was going to up the charges on imr4350 h4350 and stabal
I am shooting over a chrono but it’s just a Caldwell
I have velocity data just not on me
Varget was slow as shit. Even tho it grouped the best I was going to abandon it as it seems everyone thinks it’s a bad idea to use on the heavies. I’m shooting a 142 gr Accubond L.R. I have measured my chamber. I originally loaded to 2.880 (for mags) read that these bullets like a lot of jump moved down to 2.825 (I’m measuring ogive so +/-. I trickle every round. Seat +/- 1/2 a thou. I don’t sort bullet or brass by weight. (Brass doesn’t make sense to me bullet does). I did measure my lands by using a dummy bullet and finding where it sticks and where it falls free. (I just started reloading.) my scale is an old frankland armory digital, that I used to weight sort my broadheads and arrows with. It seems to take awhile to decide how heavy something is. I’ve been thinking about replacing it. Any suggestions? I’ve got more loads on paper that I want to try. I stayed up all last night looking at posts from ten years ago on this thread. I’m not seeing any pressure signs (but I am new) so I was going to up the charges on imr4350 h4350 and stabal
I am not a fan of Varget for any level of precision shooting.... the grain is too coarse. Invest in a COAL gauge... it looks like your 55 thousandths off the lands.... play with that number a bit... I'm at about 40, but every rifle likes something different My rifle uses magazines, but I load single shot to avoid there OAL restrictions. Another trick I use is 2 different ranges when I zero, one target at 100yrds and the 2nd at 200.... especially when shooting heavier bullets at a higher velocity. The scale is ok if you use it for every load. Do you full length size every time? do you (very light) crimp? these are steps that insure consistency. I like the consistency of Hornady (ELD-M or A-TIP) bullets and either Hodgdon (4350) or Winchester (Staball 6.5) powder...
I’ll be approaching and perhaps surpassing book max. Is 1/2 a grain increments too much, as in skipping first warning signs of pressure?
I think half grain increments is fine from book min to book max. I'd probably do .3 after book max but that's a good question. Let's see what others, more experienced, have to say.
the crimp IMO is a step to ensure uniformity in the loading process... It helps to keep the seating depth from changing from recoil when loading from a magazine. I have always done a light crimp on my bolt rifles. As far as approaching and exceeding the max from the established load data... my concerns would be pressure, and unnecessary barrel wear. In my experience approaching the max has never produced accuracy, it wears a barrel out faster and the increased pressure can be dangerous. Use your chrono and watch your velocity increase/decrease with different loads. From my 6.5cm my target velocity is in the 2600fps range. It's better to BE SAFE than to be SORRY....
Established load data is always a little bit on the conservative side, but as I posted to Ann Ominous I've never seen accuracy improve at max velocity.
Half grain increments (over 1% increase each time in this case) is a lot to jump up.
I'm not a fan of ladder tests, but in instances like this I am. It wouldn't hurt to load single cartridges in .5% increments (about .2gr here) and go up from max published data until you hit obvious pressure signs. Once you do, note that charge weight and back off 1% (about .4gr). That is the max for your chamber/brass combination. Backing off that half grain will allow you to shoot in crap conditions (extra heat and humidity) without trashing your brass.
Others will have their preferred methods, but this one hasn't let me down.
Please explain what you mean by target velocity. This makes no sense to me. The whole point of hand loading is that you can tune your load to your gun. With so many different powders out there with different burn rates. With different neck tension, and then honing in on what your gun “likes” it doesn’t make sense to me to have a target velocity where you know it shoots well. I know I’m new and I’m not trying to be a duche I just don’t understand how that makes any sense. Adding more powder makes sense as far as consistency, consistency breeds accuracy. If at 39 grains, the powder is moving around inside that means it’s laying in the case at a different pattern everytime. As you fill it there are less variations available for it. Too much powder and you have a bad day
Sounds like the bullet you’re requesting is the Barnes lrx. The 127 solid fits your criteria. Lots of jump like 70 thou should get you started. That bullet hits like a hammer. Those swifts are great but expensive. Berger bullets suck for hunting. Obviously all brands work if you hit them where you should though in there own fashion. I’ve relayed this info on the hide before in other hunting bullet threads but I have an extremely reputable friend, a high end Alaskan guide. He is to the point he has to ask clients if there shooting bergers and if the answer is yes he begs them to change before there hunt. Hell of an accurate bullet though and he admits that.
Some guys want to hit a specific minimum speed, whether it be to make the cutoff to use a certain cartridge in competition (eg NRL hunter), or to minimize wind deflection while getting as close to their recoil tolerance as possible (F-class), or even to be able to hunt to the maximum range that their primary hunting area allows without having to step up in cartridges.
To me, accuracy is final and I rarely ever find top accuracy near pressure...However that doesn't mean always. I also don't compete, so my opinion is 100% not applicable to anyone who does.
There is no need to crimp with proper neck tension. The bullet will not move under recoil. .003" of neck tension in my 300WM never had a bullet move at all. You will not move in a 6.5 Creedmoor.
Depends on what you are seeing up to the max. Books can be very conservative on their loads and changing OAL and brass type from what they used can change things too. I would go .2 increments when going over book max to be safe.
Y’all be careful. You are telling a new reloader to go over max but be careful doing it. I totally understand what’s going on, because my CM loads are over book value, but I’ve been reloading since 1984, and I understand all these processes, and load with quality equipment. The OP is very new and it seems that they don’t have a firm grasp of things yet. All I’m saying is be careful, because everything is good until it isn’t.
That's why I told him it depends on what he was seeing going up to max. If he sees anything he isn't comfortable then stop and be safe. I am not telling him to go over max but explaining the process. When I said change things it didn't mean always going over but even under max. If the book load was using a thin walled and larger internal capacity brass like Winchester and you are using LC then you can very well see pressure before book max. Lots of variables and you should not go over unless you understand them and are comfortable with the development up to that point.
To be clear by “approaching and over book max” I’m talking a tenth of a grain. And that’s a maybe. So far I think 41 grains of h4350 is the closest I’ve gotten to max. (I’d have to look at my notes). I’ve had a gun blow from over pressure from shelf ammo. And it was the scariest thing. I’d really not like to do anything close to that again. I really want to use this bullet and i want to make sure I took every possible avenue before I throw in the towel on it. In my mind I should find something cuase the shelf ammo using this bullet did well. Last night I pulled a bullet from that box of ammo. I know it’s 42.5 grains of a ball powder looks similar to stabal. Being it’s a Winchester box I don’t think it’s unthinkable that’s what they used.
41grns of H4350 will be safe in pretty much anything. The original factory load was 41.5grns and the 140 AMAX.
So Hornady max is 41.5 and Nosler max is 41 for h-4350.
Imr is n-41.5 h-42
Stabal is horn-43.7 winch.-44.4
What I have written down to load over the week to shoot on weekend is:
H4350:
[email protected] gr
10@ 42gr
After todays discussion advise I’ll probably knock this down to .2 gr increments
Stabal 6.5:
[email protected]
10@43gr
[email protected]
10@44gr
Again this will probably change to .2 gr increments after 43 gr.
Imr is n-41.5 h-42
Stabal is horn-43.7 winch.-44.4
What I have written down to load over the week to shoot on weekend is:
H4350:
[email protected] gr
10@ 42gr
After todays discussion advise I’ll probably knock this down to .2 gr increments
Stabal 6.5:
[email protected]
10@43gr
[email protected]
10@44gr
Again this will probably change to .2 gr increments after 43 gr.
I load 41 grains of H4350 with 147gr eldx, 139gr Lapua senars, and 142 gr smk, loaded at 2.810.
All 3 loads shoot in the same. Hole @ 100yards, from Springfield waypoint steel barrel and a Seekins havoc , I tried 5 other powders , many other bullets, ,
H4350 is hard to beat in a 6.5 Ann you might be over thinking a lot of stuff , keep it simple when you can, and don’t get your rifle to hot
All 3 loads shoot in the same. Hole @ 100yards, from Springfield waypoint steel barrel and a Seekins havoc , I tried 5 other powders , many other bullets, ,
H4350 is hard to beat in a 6.5 Ann you might be over thinking a lot of stuff , keep it simple when you can, and don’t get your rifle to hot
nothing wrong with those, not flat and no cratering, 37 grains is super light load
Left was 37 of h4350 right was (going off memory) 43.5??? Of stayball. The primer does look a little flattened, when compared to the one next to it. Are you saying that is normal and not flattened?
The one on the right has a slight ejector mark over the C, so that is mild pressure sign, I would not go higher. The other signs to pay attention to is stiffer bolt lift or clicking at top of bolt opening.
Noted.
So I got my permission slip for my muffler the other day. Question: I know it will change my poi, will it change my groups enough to make the work up I’ve been doing this far null and void?
So I got my permission slip for my muffler the other day. Question: I know it will change my poi, will it change my groups enough to make the work up I’ve been doing this far null and void?
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