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6mm grendel?
- Thread starter Iwillylike2shoot
- Start date
Took the Xcaliber barrel out yesterday for it's first 20 rounds and scope adjustment. I only loaded 20 rounds I need to get measurements on the fired cartridge for making a comparator for that barrel. My barrel 24" Bull barrel , 11 degree crown, no gas side charger. Shoot and clean, shoot and clean. The last 3 of the twenty at 100 yards looked like this
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I will look up his info and pm you. I had him do a 26” bartlien barreled 6br for me. I ended up selling it but it was a shooter.
Yes, I have done this quite a bit, with BHW blanks like this as well as other brands. I also have one of these same 243LBC chambered barrel blanks; the muzzle end has not been touched since rifling, and most definitely needs to be trimmed and finished. You can not make a 20" barrel from this, finished length will be ~19" or so.
Yonderling, did the type 2 bolt work with your BHW clearance barrel? I got mine and It headspaces with a type 1 or 762/39 bolt with my gages.
The 243 LBC uses a Type 1 bolt (.125" bolt face depth). These blanks have the same chambers as their regular production barrels.
The .125" bolt is better anyway.
And please - Yondering, not Yonderling. It's a southern term that means "exploring".
YONDERING, got it, sorry bout that I concur on the bolt issue. if it worked since 1947 on an AK why change it
Well I guess you could say the barrel from True Sports is a helluva deal. I took out Fri to the range to try and find out what loads it likes and I think I'm on the right track. Started light and worked up 26 grains is 6PPC max. This was at 100 yds. A freaking 35 dollar barrel damn.
These do seem to shoot easy with most loads.
max 6PPC loads are basically starting loads for the 243 LBC (although most 6PPC data is for lighter bullets). Not much need to go any lower than that. You're 3+ grains below max for the 243 LBC there, based on my experience with the 95gr VLD.
Yes I know but I wanted to start low and see what happens. I have reloaded some starting where I left off with that string. The weather was cold and windy so I didn't set up my chrono. Next time I will.
The barrel extension came from Brownells it was 21.99 the bolt was a standard 7.62/39 that I had. Checked the headspace and it was good. I then put an 11 degree crown and turned the barrel down till the machine marks went away to just inside a 15 " handguard and took it to the range. I can't believe how accurate this rifle is.
Thanks for the Vid. I have now built 6 Grendels 4 in 6.5 and 2 in 6.0 I do have the proper headspace gauges and well aware the bolt issues.
The 243 LBC uses 7.62x39 bolts, not Grendel (what some guys call type 2) bolts.
No work is needed on the chamber of these barrels.
I still need to bead blast mine, but it shoots well, especially for a cheaper build (not counting my own labor of course).
Extra rigidity in a billet upper? That has to be from the billet being machined to have more material in critical areas. A forged part is always going to be stronger than billet if they are of the same dimensions. For some reason people think billet is stronger than forged but that is completely false.
I love that traditional octagonal barrel look! Its not necessarily a new concept but in an AR never seen it b4. Looks awesome bro!!I still need to bead blast mine, but it shoots well, especially for a cheaper build (not counting my own labor of course).
I think JP Rifles offer the best bolts for the Grendel now. Back in 2005 I had two bolt failures using 7.62x39 bolts.
Manufacturers take great license with the term billet.
Forged bar stock that has been extruded / rolled and heat treated is what we used. None of that cast hammer forged stuff.
When a chunk of the bar stock is cut to a working lenght it was referred to as a billet.
Some people call a cast piece a forging or billet or forged billet.
If you want to get it strait from a manufacturer go to one that sells both for the truth as to why one is more expensive than the other.
The ones that sell only forged billet will misslead you.
I worked with bar stock for 35 years and don't like cast stuff.
IHMO
If a company only sells one thier opinion will be slanted in defense of thier product.
Forged bar stock that has been extruded / rolled and heat treated is what we used. None of that cast hammer forged stuff.
When a chunk of the bar stock is cut to a working lenght it was referred to as a billet.
Some people call a cast piece a forging or billet or forged billet.
If you want to get it strait from a manufacturer go to one that sells both for the truth as to why one is more expensive than the other.
The ones that sell only forged billet will misslead you.
I worked with bar stock for 35 years and don't like cast stuff.
IHMO
If a company only sells one thier opinion will be slanted in defense of thier product.
Strength isn't so much what you're after for rigidity. It's more an area moment of inertia (beefier construction) and elastic modulus (material property) thing. I'm not well versed in aluminum alloys to tell you if elastic modulus changes dramatically with different alloys and heat treats.
Its like what Snuby said the term billet gets tossed around a lot. Would you rather have a hammer forged blade or one ground from a piece of extruded stock that was cut and ground into shape.(yes I'm quoting smythbusters example) At the same time after you've finished hammering out your blade the raw piece you have b4 final shaping and grinding is called you guessed it a billet. The process of forging aligns the molecules and grain structure into the shape of the part being machined. But that's what I meant by a billet upper having extra material in critical areas but that's considering that the upper is cut from quality alloy and from some pre-cast junk. Also rigid doesn't constitute strength there is a point where a part can be to rigid and lack elasticity and break under stress. Long story short know what your buying. Get your stuff from a reputable source and don't be fooled by clever marketing.
I worked in a custom fab shop environment for aircraft testing.
A young engineer trying to make a name for hisself ordered cast " forged" billets to save on nasty ovehead caused by overpaid union workers (craftsmen).
First one broke, I called him to the floor, a senior engineer accompanied him for his peace of mind (safety). After pictures and documentation I took a small hammer and broke another piece off.
I gave the noob a hammer twice as big as I had and a piece of stock. The senior engineer and I went on my overpaid union break for coffee and when we returned the piece of stock had some impressive dents but no breaks.
A crude example for FWIW.
A young engineer trying to make a name for hisself ordered cast " forged" billets to save on nasty ovehead caused by overpaid union workers (craftsmen).
First one broke, I called him to the floor, a senior engineer accompanied him for his peace of mind (safety). After pictures and documentation I took a small hammer and broke another piece off.
I gave the noob a hammer twice as big as I had and a piece of stock. The senior engineer and I went on my overpaid union break for coffee and when we returned the piece of stock had some impressive dents but no breaks.
A crude example for FWIW.
