Well. It’s still f ing doing it. Saturday match nice weather. Had degreased bolt and action. Still sticky af
Scratch marks on some brass necks also. Not sure if it’s always done that. With 2 different mags
Scratch marks on some brass necks also. Not sure if it’s always done that. With 2 different mags
I guess the brass is a separate issue. Thinking back it binds up empty no mag etc
Can you send pic of the front of bolt?
Can you feel any of the roll pins on the bolt head?
If one is protruding just a bit it’ll cause all kind of issues
Can you feel any of the roll pins on the bolt head?
If one is protruding just a bit it’ll cause all kind of issues
2 looked like they were out a little. I drove them down don’t think that’s it. Think it’s the bolt stop/guide. I depress it it gets a lot smoother
That bottom roll pin in the last picture sure looks polished. Unless it's the flash.
But on the plus side. I should be getting my stock back soon so I can shoot my AT-X again soon. So their warranty department was able to turn it around pretty fast.
But on the plus side. I should be getting my stock back soon so I can shoot my AT-X again soon. So their warranty department was able to turn it around pretty fast.
You need to put a little grease inside the bolt stop groove on the bolt. That has always helped in my experience.
Yup had it cerakoted. Think the color was magpul green if I remember right
Did you rattle can inside the action and barrel extension ? Sure looks like it
- Clean the inside of the action and LIGHT lube
- LIGHTLY lube the groves in the bolt
I am a professional
As I stated this ran great after paint fir a bunch of matches and other activities. This problem reared its head at the mkm snow match a couple weeks ago
Oh the inside of the action is just dirty af from last 2 matches and practice. This berger ammo is dogshit
I bet if you reach out to AINA they can square you right up.
Or since it’s broken, I’ll give you $20 to take it off your hands.
We know you don't HAVE TO... However, have you considered cleaning all the shit out of your action, and sorting out the feed ramp???
Everything looks dry and manky in there, that wouldn't be helping anything.
The easiest way to a smooth bolt on my AI's has always been lubing up the bolt catch channel on the left side of the bolt, and cleaning the actual stop inside the action. Light oil on the back of the lugs.
Clearly you use the hell out of it, good to see.
Everything looks dry and manky in there, that wouldn't be helping anything.
The easiest way to a smooth bolt on my AI's has always been lubing up the bolt catch channel on the left side of the bolt, and cleaning the actual stop inside the action. Light oil on the back of the lugs.
Clearly you use the hell out of it, good to see.
That bottom roll pin looks like it’s a tad above. The way I check them, I run a straight edge length wise of bolt. If any snag, it’ll definitely cause issues.
Also if you have any paint in the bolt stop, it’ll create a friction on bolt.
Also if you have any paint in the bolt stop, it’ll create a friction on bolt.
Hit that w some brake clean non chlorinated and a 12 ga nylon brush. Than some Hornady one shot. Should clear up your neglected AI 
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Beat the piss out of it... Then keep it clean.
I recognize this from the gram, congrats on the AI man!
Lol one look at that AX in the background and instantly knew who it was. You, B59, and durk (AI Jesus) are the people who influenced me to get an AI lol
Glad we could con another person into the cult 
Hey it’s not as bad as Knights, but me and Tylor joined at the same timeGlad we could con another person into the cult
I’ve got a new 26” .308 barrel for an AT but it’s plain and does not have a threading for the muzzle. Where would you guys recommend I send my barrel to get the muzzle threaded to 5/8”-24”?
Seems like a lot of guys use Mile High for stuff like that, I like LRI for all things rifle related. You might consider 3/4-24 though, assuming you've got the diameter at the muzzle... Not sure exactly what your plans are though, you might be limited by threads on a direct-thread suppressor or something.
By the way, I trust NOTHING to local fudds, so I'm mailing regardless... Doesn't matter to me if it's the next state over of across the country.
By the way, I trust NOTHING to local fudds, so I'm mailing regardless... Doesn't matter to me if it's the next state over of across the country.
Yeah yeah but there are local places that do good work , and even if shipped closer is quicker.
I’d use closest shop with good reviews.
So. @Nik H was somewhat right about lube I guess. I used grease lightly on the bolt guide. Seemed to help a lot. But worried this general purpose grease will gum up again when it gets cold wet frozen etc.
Looks like bolt guide is bare steel? Seems it should have been coated with Teflon or something. ?
What lube are you using and works well from 10*-100*?
Dry pics :
Looks like bolt guide is bare steel? Seems it should have been coated with Teflon or something. ?
What lube are you using and works well from 10*-100*?
Dry pics :
I somewhat agree with you... Obviously if you happen to live near Sturgis, LRI is local to you so using the local guy is a pretty easy decision. I guess where I start getting pretty skeptical has to do with those 'reviews' of your local guy (generally speaking, not you specifically)... How many local shooters never shoot beyond 200 yards? Hell how many never shoot at all?! How many unfired custom rifles have you seen for sale that some guy waited 6-12 months for, then never shot? How many enthusiasts would even know the difference between good work & bad?
Not trying to be argumentative, just saying I don't trust these bozo's (smiths & customers alike).
Swannys lube. Seems to work well in all temps from 10-100°. Before that I would use hoppes #9 in the cold and Lucas extreme if it was warm. The lucas would gum up In the cold.
Swannys oil
Living in Minnesota and being from North Dakota, this subject is of interest to me.
I don’t pretend to be an expert, as I’ve only really started looking into it last year. Here is a link about cold weather stuff and here is my post on a cold weather lube thread.
Basically, from what I’ve researched indicates that you first should strip all lube from the chamber and bolt with something like acetone. Get all the lube off.
I’m testing:
- Mobil One 0w-20 (-40°F)
- 880 Crown & Chassis Extreme Grease (-40°F)
- NECO Moly-Slide (-30°C to 350°C? Manuf. emailed estimate)
- CherryBalmz Winter Balm (-55 to -65°F)
Motor oil temp ranges:
(source)
I’ve used the first three so far in a bastard BRN-180 that had lots of other problems so I haven’t gotten any good data yet. Plus it’s been unseasonable warm this winter. Don’t think it’s broke -5°F.
I don’t slop it on, that’s for sure.
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Shooters choice all weather high tech grease
Very thin layer on the body, a few dots will do and smear it. Doesn't make the action feel thick and has held up to use in my ARs and bolt guns. Ran my bolt guns to 0 in upstate NY when I lived there and now down in NC where temps are 90-95+ with zero issues.
I’ve got a new 26” .308 barrel for an AT but it’s plain and does not have a threading for the muzzle. Where would you guys recommend I send m barrel to get the muzzle threaded to 5/8”-24”?
Also @BurtG, don’t trust just the number on the side of the motor oil bottle. I watched a -40°F pour test on a number of motor oils and the cheap Walmart oil was worse than molasses, and even higher end oils were significantly worse than mobile one.
Screenshot below:
@LRRPF52 has some experience in cold weather military stuff.
Finally, this thread has some good info as well (whoops, already linked to it above, oh well):
www.snipershide.com
Screenshot below:
@LRRPF52 has some experience in cold weather military stuff.
Finally, this thread has some good info as well (whoops, already linked to it above, oh well):
Freezing rifle test - Garand Thumb
I wasn't expecting much. But I must admit the brands/ types I thought would do well did not! I found this really enlightening.
www.snipershide.com
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Try XF-7...it's not oily and won't gum up. I have had it out in temps as low as 20 degrees and it is still liquid
