Watch the PX ads here on SH and/or backorder a couple from Europtic or GA Precision. That has worked well for many people.
Coup De Grâce, New Action from American Rifle Company, $899 WOW!
- Thread starter karagias
- Start date
Hey guys, my smith just told me my gun is done, but I think I screwed up. When I gave him the barrel and action we were both shooting a match in almost 100 degree heat and I forgot to ask for a conical breech.
I’m assuming he didn’t do that and I had it chambered in 6 dasher. Am I going to be screwed?
I’m assuming he didn’t do that and I had it chambered in 6 dasher. Am I going to be screwed?
My 6.5c doesn’t have one. Feeds and functions fine. I believe the feeding issue pops up in the smaller 223/arc size cases
Even in the 223 size cases it seems to feed fine as long as you run the bolt fast, at least mine does…
He actually did conical anyways. Crisis diverted.
Finished product:
Spent just slightly over $3k on it.
XLR PRO W/ C6 - $1040
Bartlein 28" 1.25 straight taper - $410
Triggertech 2 stage diamond - $265
ARC CDG - $900
Spent just slightly over $3k on it.
XLR PRO W/ C6 - $1040
Bartlein 28" 1.25 straight taper - $410
Triggertech 2 stage diamond - $265
ARC CDG - $900
Last edited:
I’m guessing that at $410 for a Bartlein barrel that you spun it up yourself?
That cost was $470 - sorry. All in just over $3k.
Wow, still that’s very inexpensive smithing. Given the blank should be around…what, $360.
Good for you.
I understand now, thanks. I highly regret ordering a proof competition contour instead of a straight taiper.
I just don't like the look of a straight taiper personally. I know it would suit me better but so far looks matter more to me than function.
yours looks pretty cool though.
I'd bring out that old Hawk Tuah for a 410$ bartlein blank...
Last edited:
Redhawkrifles had this one - $450 minus 10%.
And I’ve never built a custom rifle before and didn’t even know what contour was when I started. All of this was pieced together primarily based on what I could find in stock. Next barrel is not going to be so big and beefy
It’s bigger in person, I swear.
that's a stellar deal. idk man, you may grow to love that contour, it's what most of the top shooters shoot where I'm from.
I needed to go back to look and the last Bartlein I had delivered was an MTU in the 400MODBB steel. It was delivered in Jan of '22...ordered in Jun '21 so yeah, a bit ago.
The base price (prior to 400MODBB up charge) was $370. So, I was sort of reasonable in my guess of $360 for the blank...but my oh my, fucking Brandon's inflation has hit everywhere.
Cheers
That's a pretty hugely stout amount of torque.
I was going to do 60ish. I was just wondering why they bothered to write that. seems like some people like to go to several hundred pounds with cheater bars. is it not safe for this actions material or action wrench fitment?
new to this whole, assemble your own precision rifle stuff.
new to this whole, assemble your own precision rifle stuff.
A fair question that I believe was answered in this thread earlier, or possibly another one, don’t know.
But I do have to ask why one would worry about the upper torque limit on an action is once that number is well past what is necessary.
150lbs is probably to much for the Go and No-Go Gauge to do its thing. I did one at 150 and had to send it back in for some work at the barrel maker.. Not going to do that again.
I don't *think* that's how this works...
my concerns are toward whatever they're doing to make these actions so cheap. afraid the metallurgy won't last.
not been my experience with American rifle company so far that for sure, but my mausingfields were pretty expensive.
my concerns are toward whatever they're doing to make these actions so cheap. afraid the metallurgy won't last.
not been my experience with American rifle company so far that for sure, but my mausingfields were pretty expensive.
Torqued to 125lb-ft they already stress my shitty bench enough to flex when I try to spin em off.
This also was discussed some earlier in this thread. Two things that stuck with me are a design built around ease of repeatable manufacture and focused volume based upon purchase of the right equipment to do so.
They are not the only ones doing so these days. Solus, Kauger, and others are producing solid product for much less today. It’s actually a sign of a maturing market wherein a certain standard becomes more of a commodity and less of a luxury/custom concept.
Just wait until you get yours.
You ever worked on cars? Replaced cv axles? Civic cv axle 32mm torque is 134ftlbs. Tacoma front axle torque is 174ftlbs. Takes alot to put those on.
Once replacing a cv axle on an old civic I had to stand on the 18" breaker bar to get it loose.
Breakaway torque is not the same as tightening torque.
thanks for the actual answer. good to know and if something were to break I'd sure hope it would be the wrench I guess.
it just struck me as odd because I've heard somewhere Ted himself talking about how the appropriate torque value for a screw the size of the barrel threads to get actual full engagement(or w/e you call it)would be somewhere in the neighborhood of 500ft/lbs, then on the action he manufactures recommends 150lbs. and I know Ted's a smart guy so I figured there had to be some reason out there besides
"have you ever torqued anything"
but yeah my gunsmith told me he does my actions to 50 and they shoot crazy good so I'll just do 60 with my shitty Lowes wrenches. if I had a problem I'd be visiting him anyway cause I don't know shit and he seems to know everything.
Last edited:
Well, you can either listen to the engineer who designed the action or your gunsmith/people on the Hide.
Me...I go with Ted the engineer who designed the action.
good for you, my gunsmith absolutely knows his shit.
I've seen his results. whatever he thinks will work best *for me* is what I'll do.
eta I'm working with a vice I just gave like 95$ for so I don't need the headache of 100ft/lbs when I pry my dead 6 creed barrel off next Christmas.
ymmv.
Only guy I know who does 3-500lbs on barrels does a lot more to the actions because they can’t handle it off the shelf, IIRC.
makes me think I probably just misunderstood Ted a while back when he was talking about screws and force and shit.
which is exactly why I do what my gunsmith tells me. he uses real small easy to understand words...
And gee....there wasn't a really big word in there! ;-) lol
I had to torque to 130 foot pounds to get the no go gauge not to close. At 110 the no go was stiff but did close. Not sure if that’s normal but go and no go gauges were g2g at 130.
He certainly indicated a good reason, which was mentioned above already:
“Our receivers could easily handle that if they could be held in a way that would not result in damage during tightening.”
Reading skills are important.
