Coup De Grâce, New Action from American Rifle Company, $899 WOW!

[Tremor3Guy]

Well lok

Continuing the subject of anti-seize on CDG barrel tenons, I find its always informative to actually ask the company who makes the product. From ARC (underlining added by me):

"Good morning,​

​

It is 100% necessary to use anti-seize when installing a barrel on one of our actions. We have always used copper based anti seize, the image below is the exact type we've used in our complete rifles. 100 ft-lbs is our recommended torque. Hope this helps!"​

Well looky there! I guess that should suffice anyone asking. I never even thought about what type of anti seize, I was just proud of myself for using anti seize lol

 

[The D]

I’ve got a nit-picky question for the metallurgists on the board. I understand the need for anti-seize, 100%. Would there be a problem using a silicone/ceramic brake lubricant in place of the copper anti-seize that ARC recommends? Only reason I ask is that’s what I have already in my garage

 

[Kiba]

I’ve got a nit-picky question for the metallurgists on the board. I understand the need for anti-seize, 100%. Would there be a problem using a silicone/ceramic brake lubricant in place of the copper anti-seize that ARC recommends? Only reason I ask is that’s what I have already in my garage

Silicone is typically not a recommended lubricant for threaded metal to metal joints, partially because silicone grease often has a poor film strength and it gets forced out of the high pressure areas of the joint. Save the silicone ceramic brake lube for your next brake job.

What really does the job in antiseize is the suspended solids; typically graphite flakes along with nickel, copper, aluminum, zinc, moly disulfide, etc, depending on the version of anti seize you use.

Go pick up some actual anti seize, it's meant for threaded joints. My preference is for nickel based given the bare stainless barrel threads, I use loctite LB771, although it's something you might have to order. You can probably pick up a small tube of permatex nickel anti seize at your local auto store for about 5 bucks; it has more graphite and lower nickel content than loctite LB771, but it's still plenty adequate for barrel to action threads.

 

[LVLAaron]

My only gripe in less than 50rds of use is the bolt to body clearance . Clearance is there for a reason , but i still dont like it. However, its nothing that cant be fixed with a couple welds and a surface grinder.

For the price of what some people pay for knives and backpacks, its an incredible deal.

How much is there? Is there a "bump" on the back of the bolt like the Mausingfield?

 

[lash]

How much is there? Is there a "bump" on the back of the bolt like the Mausingfield?

No. The bolt runs quite smoothly and like most every other action, takes just a bit to find how to run the best and smoothly. And like all those other actions, it’s not everybody’s cup of tea. Viva la competition and choices.

I still shoot my roughly 15 yo Stiller TAC30AW action really well, even though it’s loose and has many tens of thousands of rounds through it plus untold dry fire. Yet I do not experience a hang, hitch or any other issue while running the bolt. It about technique.

 

[schmi015]

Continuing the subject of anti-seize on CDG barrel tenons, I find its always informative to actually ask the company who makes the product. From ARC (underlining added by me):

"Good morning,​

​

It is 100% necessary to use anti-seize when installing a barrel on one of our actions. We have always used copper based anti seize, the image below is the exact type we've used in our complete rifles. 100 ft-lbs is our recommended torque. Hope this helps!"​

View attachment 8447482

Damn I used nickel based.

 

[GBMaryland]

I'm annoyed because I could swear anti-seize wasn't specifically stated me the one pager that came with the action and just to used lots 'o grease.

Granted, I slathered that bastard with lots of high end synthetic grease....