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Coup De Grâce, New Action from American Rifle Company, $899 WOW!
- Thread starter karagias
- Start date
Front screw controls fore and aft. Rear screw locks it in place. No height adjustment possible.Actually, forward and aft movement is controlled and limited by the rear screw. The front screw is a secondary height control adjustment.
Look carefully at the cutout in the action where the front screw rests. It’s a ramp that allows for you to adjust height. Note especially that the front screw does Not tighten the hanger in any way. It is a height adjustment screw. The rear screw is what holds the hanger in place.
If you do not have enough sear engagement, then you need to back that front screw out a very little bit to allow the front of the hanger to set deeper and thus increase seer engagement. I had to screw mine in because I was getting bolt drag even at maximum forward (and thus the least height) position.
I would not adjust front screw depth more than 1/4 turn at a time. Try it. You’ll see that I’m right.
If I recall correctly, Ted briefly alludes to or mentions it when he talks about the front screw in the video, but he does not dwell on it at all.
Let me know how that works out for you.
As a summary and an afterward, moving the hanger backward or forward changes engagement height due to the ramp design in the front of the action cut. That IS the primary height adjustment mechanism and will cover the majority of triggers and cases. A front screw adjustment is only needed on the occasion that your seer engagement cannot be satisfactorily adjusted using the primary method.
Have I made it as clear as mud yet?
The height of the trigger can’t change. The pins constrain vertical movement in the channels inside the action.
Front screw pushes against the ramp to force the hangar rearward.
CDG trigger hanger is not height adjustable via the front screw. The trigger height is constrained by the pointy pins through the trigger into v-grooves in the action (1st version), and by the pins through the trigger to trigger hanger and then by the tabs on the trigger hanger into square grooves cut in the action (2nd version.)
The angled point front setscrew impinges on an angled face in the action and moves the trigger hanger forward or back for trigger timing and the trigger hanger slides forwards or backwards on the pointy pins or the tabs on the trigger hanger.
2nd version of the hanger/action with the tabs on the trigger hanger would allow ARC to alter the trigger sear to cocking piece height by differently machined hangers that move the trigger height relative to the 4x tabs on the hanger that engage the action. 1st revision actions are locked into a set trigger sear to cocking piece height because the pointy trigger pins not only hold the trigger but also engage into v-grooves cut in the action, and you would have to recut the grooves in the action to alter trigger height.
The trigger not catching or dropping on close, especially if you have the pivoting handle installed, could be because of a too light or sensitive trigger with not enough sear engagement in the trigger. Excessive overcocking can also cause issues when running the bolt fast as the cocking piece will slam into the trigger sear before the bolt is closed, and that can shock the trigger and the sear won't catch.
The angled point front setscrew impinges on an angled face in the action and moves the trigger hanger forward or back for trigger timing and the trigger hanger slides forwards or backwards on the pointy pins or the tabs on the trigger hanger.
2nd version of the hanger/action with the tabs on the trigger hanger would allow ARC to alter the trigger sear to cocking piece height by differently machined hangers that move the trigger height relative to the 4x tabs on the hanger that engage the action. 1st revision actions are locked into a set trigger sear to cocking piece height because the pointy trigger pins not only hold the trigger but also engage into v-grooves cut in the action, and you would have to recut the grooves in the action to alter trigger height.
The trigger not catching or dropping on close, especially if you have the pivoting handle installed, could be because of a too light or sensitive trigger with not enough sear engagement in the trigger. Excessive overcocking can also cause issues when running the bolt fast as the cocking piece will slam into the trigger sear before the bolt is closed, and that can shock the trigger and the sear won't catch.
Actually, forward and aft movement is controlled and limited by the rear screw. The front screw is a secondary height control adjustment.
Look carefully at the cutout in the action where the front screw rests. It’s a ramp that allows for you to adjust height. Note especially that the front screw does Not tighten the hanger in any way. It is a height adjustment screw. The rear screw is what holds the hanger in place.
If you do not have enough sear engagement, then you need to back that front screw out a very little bit to allow the front of the hanger to set deeper and thus increase seer engagement. I had to screw mine in because I was getting bolt drag even at maximum forward (and thus the least height) position.
I would not adjust front screw depth more than 1/4 turn at a time. Try it. You’ll see that I’m right.
If I recall correctly, Ted briefly alludes to or mentions it when he talks about the front screw in the video, but he does not dwell on it at all.
Let me know how that works out for you.
As a summary and an afterward, moving the hanger backward or forward changes engagement height due to the ramp design in the front of the action cut. That IS the primary height adjustment mechanism and will cover the majority of triggers and cases. A front screw adjustment is only needed on the occasion that your seer engagement cannot be satisfactorily adjusted using the primary method.
Have I made it as clear as mud yet?
In his video, he clearly states the hanger only allows the trigger to move forward and aft. He also states the rear screw is used to lock it down.
He mentions several times the forward and aft movement and never addresses any vertical movement at all. The front screw is the only adjustment screw. The rear is a lock screw that prevents movement forward and aft once the front screw is adjusted properly.
The hanger cannot move vertically due to the pins restricting the movement. So when the front screw is turned, the angled surface it engages forces the trigger in the direction of the angle (hence why the rear screw is left loose for the adjustment process). Once the correct setting is found, you tighten the rear screw with the action cocked so that it forces the front screw (and thusly the hanger) forward on the ramp. The rear screw is then tightened down to lock in the forward and aft movement hence forward.
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Got it fixed (so far at least), thank you all for the help. Added a little more sear engagement on the trigger itself, had a brain fart and didn't even think of that. This trigger has been on 4 other rifles with no issues so I figured it was my setup with the hanger.
Now when is that lightweight version coming out, I need a silhouette rifle based on this action?!
Now when is that lightweight version coming out, I need a silhouette rifle based on this action?!
Probably just fine, but not sure why you'd want to run a single stack mag when 6 dasher out of an AW mag with an HRD br/dasher kit runs super smooth in these actions and the double stack AW mag is shorter and easier to load.
They should, although you may have to adjust the latch height.
You may also have to adjust the latch height for AICS mags.
About the only real advantage AICS style mags have for this action is easily available mag extensions. Otherwise, AW mags feed like butter in the CDG because it was designed to run AW mags.
Apparently MPA.
MPA Elite Barreled Action - MasterPiece Arms, Inc.
The MPA Elite barreled action includes the MPA Elite Action, built by American Rifle Company (Coup de Grace Action) with an MPA Handlapped Hand Chambered Match Grade Barrel. They are available in a multitude of configurations, including with or without a trigger and in a black cerakote or...
masterpiecearms.com
They do. AW mags fit in any mag well made for AICS mags by design. With the CDG, I’m not sure if you need to adjust mag latch or not.
I’ve had to adjust my ACC Elite when moving between AICS and AW.
I had my CDG in my ACC Premiere and it worked. They were a little tight the first few times in. I had to give it a smack with my hand. After a couple times they fit fine.
No, as they're 1 piece welded and don't have a detachable baseplate.
A few guys have cobbled together extensions for AW mags, but you have to cut the floor out of the AW mags.
As of now there are no aftermarket 10+ round capacity AW mags that I'm aware of.
I will add my 2 cents.....I have the ACC Elite and my CDG built Dasher with AW HRD mags run so freaking smooth, it's just a joy to shoot......in fact, I just got back from a quick range session
Did you do anything to the mag catch? If so how did you do it?I will add my 2 cents.....I have the ACC Elite and my CDG built Dasher with AW HRD mags run so freaking smooth, it's just a joy to shoot......in fact, I just got back from a quick range session
Shows outta stock when you load all the info in to order.Anyone that’s looking short action customs appears to have CDG in stock. Not on sale but in stock.
American Rifle Company Coup De Grâce Action
ALL ACTION PURCHASES WILL REQUIRE CUSTOMER TO PROVIDE US AN FFL FOR TRANSFER OF RECEIVER. PLEASE REVIEW OUR TERMS AND CONDITIONS ON RIFLE PARTS PRIOR TO ORDERINGshortactioncustoms.com
Not yet, but there's going to be at least one company releasing one for BR variants soon.
Post #5720 explains how I modified one for 14 rounds.
I checked it out this time, adds to cart, coupon applies. Looks like left hand 308 and magnum in stock at preferred barrel blanks for Black Friday.
preferredbarrelblanks.com
ARC - Coup De Grâce Bolt Action - Preferred Barrel Blanks
American Rifle Company – Coup De Grâce Action Whether it puts competitors out of their misery or puts an end to the confusion resulting from the myriad of other bolt actions with little or nothing to distinguish one from the other, American Rifle Company’s Coup De Grâce is certainly worthy of...
preferredbarrelblanks.com
If I can reproducibly drop the striker when cycling the bolt up and down, do I need to play with the trigger hanger or the trigger or what? I can create a condition whereby the striker doesn’t reset if I don’t reduce pressure on the bolt or pull it backwards (as you would when normally cycling).
Buy an action wherever in stock then buy the bolt head from arc..
My Timney two stage light (maybe a Calvin elite of yore?) and when I was setting up my Geissele Super 700 last night, to evaluate if it’s any better. Two different CDGs represented there actually.
To be clear I CAN make it go away by moving the trigger hanger backwards (screw counter clockwise), but I want that buttery smooth bolt lift and closing action. Should I be playing with trigger pull weights? Trigger sear adjustment screws?
I honestly kind of hate adjustable triggers LOL. Always fuck ‘em up.
I honestly kind of hate adjustable triggers LOL. Always fuck ‘em up.
I've set up a Geissele Super 700 and two TT Diamond 2-stage triggers and haven't had any issues with striker drop. I have one rifle with the original hanger design and another with the rev. 1 hanger design. The triggers are set as light as they go.
My method is to check the striker intrusion on the back of the bolt with a caliper. I adjust the hanger until the striker has the same depth with the bolt open as when the bolt is closed. There is the slightest hitch in the bolt drop as the striker slides from the notch in the bolt to the trigger sear, but its about as smooth as I can get it.
It’s strange as the striker isn’t resetting until pressure on the bolt is relieved. It resets every single time if I just let up a tiny bit (or run the bolt).
Are you calling the cocking piece a striker? Not sure I am understanding the problem. It almost sounds like the trigger isn't resetting, but that would mean your striker would be the sear. If this is the case, that is an issue with the trigger
Im also not following what youre trying to say.
All the trigger hanger does is move the trigger on a linear path forward and backwards. Stab in the dark, but im thinking you have trigger (not hanger) adjustment issues.
Probably, my bolt gun anatomy game isn’t great. So you’re correct, I can create a condition whereby the trigger doesn’t reset: lift bolt, don’t pull back, press bolt down. Both triggers have a way to adjust trigger sear engagement and of course pull weights.
Bro, have a little patience. You're missing out. Have you had the opportunity to fondle a CDG yet?
This makes more sense, i think. On an action that over-cocks(like every factory action made) the cocking piece travels rearward way out beyond the upper sear of the trigger, allowing the trigger to reset. Id say you dont have a problem, since there no practical reason to not cycle the bolt completely, even if you're just practicing. Edit: just went out and checked mine, does the same thing youre describing when I hold the bolt forward.
If you cock the bolt, and momentarily let go of it, the striker assembly anti-rotation pin/detent will thrust the bolt rearward slightly and allow the trigger to reset. I mean, if you absolutely must cock and close the bolt without cycling it.
Yup I get the same thing, if the bolt comes back just 0.7 to 1.0 mm, the trigger resets. I think it is the nature of the beast with zero cocking on close/open and probably why most manufactures don't do this
Nothing wrong with an origin, but you have obviously not seen a CDG in the wild. Meh, each to their own.
On any other gun, when you lift the bolt all the way, the extraction cam is part of that lift, pulling the bolt back and grabbing the sear of the trigger.
I think I ordered the last one in stock on Thursday. Got it today. It showed 3 in stock. By the time I completed the order it showed 0.
