CZ 457

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Well, doesn’t look like ol’ Terry’s gonna be selling here for long… :ROFLMAO:
 
I agree with Lash - T-nuts and a Forstner bit to get a firm mount of the rail, instead of the sling stud. I've got the A-419 'Bubble-rail' and the forearm under-rail. And an Atlas-clone bipod on Amazon is about $25.
 
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I agree with Lash - T-nuts and a Forstner bit to get a firm mount of the rail, instead of the sling stud. I've got the A-419 'Bubble-rail' and the forearm under-rail. And an Atlas-clone bipod on Amazon is about $25.
The real Atlas is better especially since Kasey is a commercial supporter here on the Hide.
 
It’s a direct replacement for the stock plastic one, so if the BA fits with the stock mag well, it should also with the Anarchy Outdoors replacement. Having said that, I don’t have mine in a chassis so verification would have to come from someone who has used it with a chassis.
 
It’s a direct replacement for the stock plastic one, so if the BA fits with the stock mag well, it should also with the Anarchy Outdoors replacement. Having said that, I don’t have mine in a chassis so verification would have to come from someone who has used it with a chassis.
mine are in Bravos. Not exactly a stock, not exactly a chassis.

The AOD mag release was one of the best things I've done. Recommended

M
 
I put my 457 in an MDT XRS stock - will either the MPA or Anarchy Outdoors mag well insert shroud work?
From pics Ive seen the xrs already tapers into the magwell, so you really shouldnt need the magwell insert. The two you mention are made for chassis that have huge holes for the magwell, thats why they made those plastic inserts for them.

If you mean the actual cz magwell disregard this.
 
Next question any thought on the KRG Chassis for the 457 MTR??
Bravo's are hard to beat for the money, and the rimfire LOP kit works well too. Had mine in a Bravo but eventually went the MPA route
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Here is the just unboxed CZ 457 MTR with AREA 419 Rail and bolt knob and Vortex Venom 5-25x56
The scope rings are what I had and are a bit high.

Update: I got to the range and am very happy with the MTR!!. The wood stock has a very natural shooting postilion for your hand, CZ did a great job with that. The action is smooth but a little stiff on closing but it new so I expected that. I shot CCI Standard, Norma Tac, Wolf Match and RWS Match Rifle. As I thought at 50 yards the RWS MR shot the best followed closely by the Wolf Match. The CCI did shoot great at 25 but not to good at 50 along with the Norma. I have Lapua Long Range, Center X,RWS 100, RWS Special match, RWS Target Rifle and Eley Team to try next time I just wanted to get about 200 to 300 rounds down the tube before I really start looking at what ammo it likes best.
I am thinking of going with a Timney and mounting a pic rail were the studs are. I do need a check riser but that is an easy fix.
Over all I am impressed withe the fit and quality and the accuracy is better than I hoped for. I have a Vudoo 360 to compare it too. I look forward to doing side by side shooting out to 200 yards at the range.

IMG_0023.jpgIMG_0224 (10).jpg
Vudoo in MPA CZ 457 MTR
 
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From pics Ive seen the xrs already tapers into the magwell, so you really shouldnt need the magwell insert. The two you mention are made for chassis that have huge holes for the magwell, thats why they made those plastic inserts for them.

Good point, it actually does shroud the magwell. I didn't notice because it's flat and really doesn't help loading the mag. The ones I mentioned are angled to guide the mag into the magwell. But the XRS stock for CZ is not open like a normal AICS mag opening in other chassis. I guess I'm out of luck then.
 
The atlas BT-15 works fine and has a flush cup for sling too.

Amazon product ASIN B08H6FJGZS
Very helpful information lash. Any preference for the the BT-15 or the longer BT-17 for the CZ 457 MTR?

Also, I’m thinking it would be best to use a button head screw if I can find the correct pitch. Will the standard CZ rifle sling studs get in the way of the bipod mounted on the picatinny? Thanks, Ed
 
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Very helpful information lash. Any preference for the the BT-15 or the longer BT-17 for the CZ 457 MTR?

Also, I’m thinking it would be best to use a button head screw if I can find the correct pitch. Will the standard CZ rifle sling studs get in the way of the bipod mounted on the picatinny? Thanks, Ed
The BT-17 is longer and all else being equal, more adjustment is always better imo. Plus, it will still fit using the spacing of the sling studs as home locations.

I just checked and I not only used the BT-17, but I did use button head screws. I suggest stainless if you can get them as the standard ones rusted on mine over two years of regular use.

Now here’s the kicker regarding use of the sling studs and the rail. You can’t, or shouldn’t anyway. If you mount the rail closer to the action and leave the sling studs, it’s really too close for proper use imo. You will have to do what I suggested above and remove the sling studs. Drill from the barrel channel for T-nuts and mount the rail using SS button head machine screws.

The Atlas rail has a flush cup for sling mount incorporated into it. If your sling only is for stud mount, you can easily purchase an adaptor to either leave on your sling end or leave in the rail.

 
The BT-17 is longer and all else being equal, more adjustment is always better imo. Plus, it will still fit using the spacing of the sling studs as home locations.

I just checked and I not only used the BT-17, but I did use button head screws. I suggest stainless if you can get them as the standard ones rusted on mine over two years of regular use.

Now here’s the kicker regarding use of the sling studs and the rail. You can’t, or shouldn’t anyway. If you mount the rail closer to the action and leave the sling studs, it’s really too close for proper use imo. You will have to do what I suggested above and remove the sling studs. Drill from the barrel channel for T-nuts and mount the rail using SS button head machine screws.

The Atlas rail has a flush cup for sling mount incorporated into it. If your sling only is for stud mount, you can easily purchase an adaptor to either leave on your sling end or leave in the rail.

I will order the BT-17 as I’m with you, more adjustment is typically better!

I’m not familiar with the “flush cup“ design of the BT-17, but it sounds that I may be OK just using the rifle’s existing wood screw sling studs for my bench rest set up, and the “flush cup” design will let me mount the Phenix bipod without interference from the sling stud as the stud will now be recessed. Does that sound accurate?

Also found this mounting hardware which looks like a good solution if the flush cup design won‘t work like I described above.

Atlas Bipods Rail Mounting Fastener Set 2 use with BT15 and BT17 if needed, Silver, BT1517 https://a.co/d/76ZrXad
 
I will order the BT-17 as I’m with you, more adjustment is typically better!

I’m not familiar with the “flush cup“ design of the BT-17, but it sounds that I may be OK just using the rifle’s existing wood screw sling studs for my bench rest set up, and the “flush cup” design will let me mount the Phenix bipod without interference from the sling stud as the stud will now be recessed. Does that sound accurate?

Also found this mounting hardware which looks like a good solution if the flush cup design won‘t work like I described above.

Atlas Bipods Rail Mounting Fastener Set 2 use with BT15 and BT17 if needed, Silver, BT1517 https://a.co/d/76ZrXad
Answers to your proposed solution.

The wood screw length on the studs is so short, they will definitely not hold to mount your rail. Believe me or find out for yourself.

Look to my post above for your solution, ready to go.

That fastener set is exactly what I’m saying you will need, except you're better off replacing the screws with SS.

Here’s some pictures:

BT-17 using sling stud locations to drill and insert the T-nuts. Note that mine gets a lot of outdoor use in rain and high humidity, thus the rust on the screws. If yours only sees fair weather bench situations, you won’t need to replace them with SS.
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Regarding mounting the rail in front/behind the sling studs, note that it would end up in that red circled area. Too close in to the action.
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The flush cup is a quick connection method that us extensively used these days. In the following picture, I’ve used red to indicate the flush cup receptacle. If you have a need for a sling stud, buy the $15 adaptor I linked above and it can sit in that flush cup if you prefer. Or you can leave it on the end of the sling and snap it in and out of the rail as needed.

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Where have all the aftermarket barrels gone? The Lilja is out of stock, and all the others I had bookmarked are no longer listed. Looking for a heavy match barrel, 20" or a bit more, with American muzzle threads.
 
Got em in and they appear to be very well made. They are a very snug fit with DIP mag well and block. Factory bottom metal in an At-one stock. I believe it's the width at the top making them a tight fit as I can see some light rub marks. Should break in nicely but as of now I have to use a good bit or force to insert and pull them out.

Edit: it's the DIP block. The factory 10rd seemed to fit tighter after installing the DIP as well.

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Slide in and out smooth with factory plastic mag well block. I also noticed the shelf on the back is slightly different than a factory mag. You can insert the mag maybe .020-.025 deeper than a factory mag. I'll get some pics posted up later.

10/6
Function has been 100% over 100rds through each. I cycled 2 full mags through the gun as well. Nice fit with factory mag well block. Ordered a second from DIP to see if it's tight as well.
 
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Anyone had any experience with the Jard trigger? Saw Josh's video (Pursuit of Accuracy) on them the other day, so I'd be interested to hear what other people with experience with them think, particularly compared to the Timney offering.
Not on 457 yet, but put a Jard in a Tikka T1X for a 14oz trigger. Have not adjusted it yet, it was 14oz out of the packaging. Its a two-stage, as shown in the vid there's far more movement than the stock trigger... but coming from Geissele HSNM in ARs, I like the Jard, I'm used to more movement in stage one. I will be ordering more Jards for the other Tikkas and for the 457.
 
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Am I crazy for preferring the factory trigger over a Bscar? The Scar is great but I have single stage on all my Tikkas and most of my ARs. I prefer a single in most cases

I do like the build quality for sure. I would think longevity/consistency over time would be great
 
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Am I crazy for preferring the factory trigger over a Bscar? The Scar is great but I have single stage on all my Tikkas and most of my ARs. I prefer a single in most cases

I do like the build quality for sure. I would think longevity/consistency over time would be great
My Scar triggers have all been SS, but as far as your original question, yes. Not everyone needs a better trigger.
 
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