I put my 457 in an MDT XRS stock - will either the MPA or Anarchy Outdoors mag well insert shroud work?
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CZ 457
- Thread starter A-Rob
- Start date
It’s a direct replacement for the stock plastic one, so if the BA fits with the stock mag well, it should also with the Anarchy Outdoors replacement. Having said that, I don’t have mine in a chassis so verification would have to come from someone who has used it with a chassis.
mine are in Bravos. Not exactly a stock, not exactly a chassis.
The AOD mag release was one of the best things I've done. Recommended
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There's a discount right now till 6pm since it's a new product launchAny discount code for SH members in this thread?
From pics Ive seen the xrs already tapers into the magwell, so you really shouldnt need the magwell insert. The two you mention are made for chassis that have huge holes for the magwell, thats why they made those plastic inserts for them.
If you mean the actual cz magwell disregard this.
Bravo's are hard to beat for the money, and the rimfire LOP kit works well too. Had mine in a Bravo but eventually went the MPA route
Here is the just unboxed CZ 457 MTR with AREA 419 Rail and bolt knob and Vortex Venom 5-25x56
The scope rings are what I had and are a bit high.
Update: I got to the range and am very happy with the MTR!!. The wood stock has a very natural shooting postilion for your hand, CZ did a great job with that. The action is smooth but a little stiff on closing but it new so I expected that. I shot CCI Standard, Norma Tac, Wolf Match and RWS Match Rifle. As I thought at 50 yards the RWS MR shot the best followed closely by the Wolf Match. The CCI did shoot great at 25 but not to good at 50 along with the Norma. I have Lapua Long Range, Center X,RWS 100, RWS Special match, RWS Target Rifle and Eley Team to try next time I just wanted to get about 200 to 300 rounds down the tube before I really start looking at what ammo it likes best.
I am thinking of going with a Timney and mounting a pic rail were the studs are. I do need a check riser but that is an easy fix.
Over all I am impressed withe the fit and quality and the accuracy is better than I hoped for. I have a Vudoo 360 to compare it too. I look forward to doing side by side shooting out to 200 yards at the range.
Vudoo in MPA CZ 457 MTR
The scope rings are what I had and are a bit high.
Update: I got to the range and am very happy with the MTR!!. The wood stock has a very natural shooting postilion for your hand, CZ did a great job with that. The action is smooth but a little stiff on closing but it new so I expected that. I shot CCI Standard, Norma Tac, Wolf Match and RWS Match Rifle. As I thought at 50 yards the RWS MR shot the best followed closely by the Wolf Match. The CCI did shoot great at 25 but not to good at 50 along with the Norma. I have Lapua Long Range, Center X,RWS 100, RWS Special match, RWS Target Rifle and Eley Team to try next time I just wanted to get about 200 to 300 rounds down the tube before I really start looking at what ammo it likes best.
I am thinking of going with a Timney and mounting a pic rail were the studs are. I do need a check riser but that is an easy fix.
Over all I am impressed withe the fit and quality and the accuracy is better than I hoped for. I have a Vudoo 360 to compare it too. I look forward to doing side by side shooting out to 200 yards at the range.
Vudoo in MPA CZ 457 MTR
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Good point, it actually does shroud the magwell. I didn't notice because it's flat and really doesn't help loading the mag. The ones I mentioned are angled to guide the mag into the magwell. But the XRS stock for CZ is not open like a normal AICS mag opening in other chassis. I guess I'm out of luck then.
Pair of South African Warrior Gen7 chassis for CZ457 in Team South Africa Colors I brought from recent IPRF worlds in Italy
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Nice!Pair of South African Warrior Gen7 chassis for CZ457 in Team South Africa Colors I brought from recent IPRF worlds in Italy
Very helpful information lash. Any preference for the the BT-15 or the longer BT-17 for the CZ 457 MTR?
Also, I’m thinking it would be best to use a button head screw if I can find the correct pitch. Will the standard CZ rifle sling studs get in the way of the bipod mounted on the picatinny? Thanks, Ed
The BT-17 is longer and all else being equal, more adjustment is always better imo. Plus, it will still fit using the spacing of the sling studs as home locations.
I just checked and I not only used the BT-17, but I did use button head screws. I suggest stainless if you can get them as the standard ones rusted on mine over two years of regular use.
Now here’s the kicker regarding use of the sling studs and the rail. You can’t, or shouldn’t anyway. If you mount the rail closer to the action and leave the sling studs, it’s really too close for proper use imo. You will have to do what I suggested above and remove the sling studs. Drill from the barrel channel for T-nuts and mount the rail using SS button head machine screws.
The Atlas rail has a flush cup for sling mount incorporated into it. If your sling only is for stud mount, you can easily purchase an adaptor to either leave on your sling end or leave in the rail.
Flush Cup Stud Adapter
The Flush Cup Stud Adapter adds function to push button swivel bases. Use the supplied allen wrench to depress the plunger and slide the stud into the base. The standard stud is ready to accept all swivel types and/or mounting of a bipod or accessories that require a sling swivel stud. Fits all...
www.grayboe.com
I will order the BT-17 as I’m with you, more adjustment is typically better!The BT-17 is longer and all else being equal, more adjustment is always better imo. Plus, it will still fit using the spacing of the sling studs as home locations.
I just checked and I not only used the BT-17, but I did use button head screws. I suggest stainless if you can get them as the standard ones rusted on mine over two years of regular use.
Now here’s the kicker regarding use of the sling studs and the rail. You can’t, or shouldn’t anyway. If you mount the rail closer to the action and leave the sling studs, it’s really too close for proper use imo. You will have to do what I suggested above and remove the sling studs. Drill from the barrel channel for T-nuts and mount the rail using SS button head machine screws.
The Atlas rail has a flush cup for sling mount incorporated into it. If your sling only is for stud mount, you can easily purchase an adaptor to either leave on your sling end or leave in the rail.
Flush Cup Stud Adapter
The Flush Cup Stud Adapter adds function to push button swivel bases. Use the supplied allen wrench to depress the plunger and slide the stud into the base. The standard stud is ready to accept all swivel types and/or mounting of a bipod or accessories that require a sling swivel stud. Fits all...
I’m not familiar with the “flush cup“ design of the BT-17, but it sounds that I may be OK just using the rifle’s existing wood screw sling studs for my bench rest set up, and the “flush cup” design will let me mount the Phenix bipod without interference from the sling stud as the stud will now be recessed. Does that sound accurate?
Also found this mounting hardware which looks like a good solution if the flush cup design won‘t work like I described above.
Atlas Bipods Rail Mounting Fastener Set 2 use with BT15 and BT17 if needed, Silver, BT1517 https://a.co/d/76ZrXad
Answers to your proposed solution.
The wood screw length on the studs is so short, they will definitely not hold to mount your rail. Believe me or find out for yourself.
Look to my post above for your solution, ready to go.
That fastener set is exactly what I’m saying you will need, except you're better off replacing the screws with SS.
Here’s some pictures:
BT-17 using sling stud locations to drill and insert the T-nuts. Note that mine gets a lot of outdoor use in rain and high humidity, thus the rust on the screws. If yours only sees fair weather bench situations, you won’t need to replace them with SS.
Regarding mounting the rail in front/behind the sling studs, note that it would end up in that red circled area. Too close in to the action.
The flush cup is a quick connection method that us extensively used these days. In the following picture, I’ve used red to indicate the flush cup receptacle. If you have a need for a sling stud, buy the $15 adaptor I linked above and it can sit in that flush cup if you prefer. Or you can leave it on the end of the sling and snap it in and out of the rail as needed.
My bullet mag just got delivered. Very nice look mag. Hopefully I have a chance to take it to the range tomorrow to see how it functions. Based on a bit of testing I did at the house I’m not expecting to have many problems.
Have you had issues with the std CZ mags? Or is there another benefit you are after with the L3i?
No function issues with standard mags. The L3i mags are 13 rounds without an extension. Capacity is what why I was interested in these mags.
Where have all the aftermarket barrels gone? The Lilja is out of stock, and all the others I had bookmarked are no longer listed. Looking for a heavy match barrel, 20" or a bit more, with American muzzle threads.
Anyone had any experience with the Jard trigger? Saw Josh's video (Pursuit of Accuracy) on them the other day, so I'd be interested to hear what other people with experience with them think, particularly compared to the Timney offering.
Got and update yesterday, should be here tomorrow. I'll put some rounds through them in the evening as long as they come in
Got em in and they appear to be very well made. They are a very snug fit with DIP mag well and block. Factory bottom metal in an At-one stock. I believe it's the width at the top making them a tight fit as I can see some light rub marks. Should break in nicely but as of now I have to use a good bit or force to insert and pull them out.
Edit: it's the DIP block. The factory 10rd seemed to fit tighter after installing the DIP as well.
Slide in and out smooth with factory plastic mag well block. I also noticed the shelf on the back is slightly different than a factory mag. You can insert the mag maybe .020-.025 deeper than a factory mag. I'll get some pics posted up later.
10/6
Function has been 100% over 100rds through each. I cycled 2 full mags through the gun as well. Nice fit with factory mag well block. Ordered a second from DIP to see if it's tight as well.
Edit: it's the DIP block. The factory 10rd seemed to fit tighter after installing the DIP as well.
Slide in and out smooth with factory plastic mag well block. I also noticed the shelf on the back is slightly different than a factory mag. You can insert the mag maybe .020-.025 deeper than a factory mag. I'll get some pics posted up later.
10/6
Function has been 100% over 100rds through each. I cycled 2 full mags through the gun as well. Nice fit with factory mag well block. Ordered a second from DIP to see if it's tight as well.
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Not on 457 yet, but put a Jard in a Tikka T1X for a 14oz trigger. Have not adjusted it yet, it was 14oz out of the packaging. Its a two-stage, as shown in the vid there's far more movement than the stock trigger... but coming from Geissele HSNM in ARs, I like the Jard, I'm used to more movement in stage one. I will be ordering more Jards for the other Tikkas and for the 457.
Am I crazy for preferring the factory trigger over a Bscar? The Scar is great but I have single stage on all my Tikkas and most of my ARs. I prefer a single in most cases
I do like the build quality for sure. I would think longevity/consistency over time would be great
I do like the build quality for sure. I would think longevity/consistency over time would be great
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My Scar triggers have all been SS, but as far as your original question, yes. Not everyone needs a better trigger.
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I'm going to at least use it a good bit and see where it goes being that if I want one again it's near impossible to get.
I’m using the stock trigger very successfully. It’s also mildly adjustable. A very nice stock trigger that hardly needs replacing.
The stock trigger on the CZ is great - especially with a cheap spring change
For sure. Mine is adjusted to eliminate creep and I'd say 2.5-3lbs. Certainly less than my 3.5lb CMCs
If you are happy with 2.5-3lbs, you don’t need an aftermarket trigger.
Yep, not wanting anything below about 2lbs. It's going to be a field gun first and foremost. I'll be shooting in all conditions and I've found too light a pull in the winter can be problematic if your hands are cold
I don't see me shooting any better with the Scar so perhaps I'll sell and get more ammo with that money
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No I feel a definite first stage, then a wall, and then the break. I didn't feel it every time. A few times it moved a bit and then released.
Bill made it in a 2 stage and a single stage. The 2 stage can be adjusted to a SS.
The walnut on this MTR is beautiful... wanted a cheek riser but didn't want to permanently alter the walnut.
This Brit has a great solution, but I don't have a bandsaw
https://youtu.be/B0HQzRWHsNc?si=G80yJOmYCZs8Gylc
So I tried a cheap Amazon leather riser, which works well but is in the way of the bore guide and a PITA to get on & off
eBay has Tourbon foam risers... covered one in soles2dance stick-on suede, some velcro and it works pretty well. The one velcro strip on the walnut is easily removed later.
This Brit has a great solution, but I don't have a bandsaw
https://youtu.be/B0HQzRWHsNc?si=G80yJOmYCZs8Gylc
So I tried a cheap Amazon leather riser, which works well but is in the way of the bore guide and a PITA to get on & off
eBay has Tourbon foam risers... covered one in soles2dance stick-on suede, some velcro and it works pretty well. The one velcro strip on the walnut is easily removed later.
Adjusted the Scar to around an 8-9oz 1st and 16oz 2nd. Also eliminated the creep, bump test gtg. I think I'll keep it
I know it's not as light as some of you fellas have em set. I can certainly see where a sub 1lb or even sub half pound is ideal for target.
I know it's not as light as some of you fellas have em set. I can certainly see where a sub 1lb or even sub half pound is ideal for target.
I'm not just satisfied with the factory triggers on my 457 VPT & American, I'm very pleased with them. Was able to adjust the American's trigger down to 1-1/4lbs, and the VPT's to 1lb even - though I'm going to bump the VPT back up to around the same as the American's, as I've had a couple of shots break before I was really ready. And it's not like I'm not experienced with very light custom triggers - the Jewell HVRs I have on several of my custom action tactical rifles are set right where they came out of the package, at 1lb. The Trigger Tech Diamonds on three of my V22s & a Rim-X are set at 1/2lb, and the Flavio Fare on a V22S BR rig is set at 8/10 oz. But those triggers were designed to be ran at those lighter weight breaks, while the CZ 457 was not. I give a big 'thumbs-up' to CZ to have had the intestinal fortitude to supply a fully-adjustable trigger on these rifles, since we all know that there's quite a surplus of lawyers in the country today. I gave some thought to placing an order for one of Bill's triggers, simply because of all the positive things I've heard about it since he brought it to the market, but when I heard how long it took to get one, I decided that there's nothing wrong with the OEM triggers, and I'm still very pleased with mine. Wishing Bill the best since he's closed out his business - I have bought 4 of his 25 MOA sloped rails for 457s, and am glad I got them while he was still making them.
Question to MTR owners. Will a Lilja straight .900 barrel fit in the wood stock?? The stock barrel is ,860 so it looks like it should fit. Anybody has one that can post a picture that would be great.
Thanks
Thanks
That stop before the mag is why I'm likely to go MDT if/when my rifles migrate into AL chassis-es
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Pretty easy to open up the barrel channel to fit the .900 barrel. Had to do it on the Boyd's stock that came on a 455. Wrapped sandpaper around a deep socket and went at it. You could even wrap a long strip of abrasive paper over your factory barrel if you were in a hurry.
A piece of aluminum angle makes a nice stop with the Bravo chassis.
