I'm going to at least use it a good bit and see where it goes being that if I want one again it's near impossible to get.
CZ 457
- Thread starter A-Rob
- Start date
I’m using the stock trigger very successfully. It’s also mildly adjustable. A very nice stock trigger that hardly needs replacing.
The stock trigger on the CZ is great - especially with a cheap spring change
For sure. Mine is adjusted to eliminate creep and I'd say 2.5-3lbs. Certainly less than my 3.5lb CMCs
If you are happy with 2.5-3lbs, you don’t need an aftermarket trigger.
Yep, not wanting anything below about 2lbs. It's going to be a field gun first and foremost. I'll be shooting in all conditions and I've found too light a pull in the winter can be problematic if your hands are cold
I don't see me shooting any better with the Scar so perhaps I'll sell and get more ammo with that money
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No I feel a definite first stage, then a wall, and then the break. I didn't feel it every time. A few times it moved a bit and then released.
Bill made it in a 2 stage and a single stage. The 2 stage can be adjusted to a SS.
The walnut on this MTR is beautiful... wanted a cheek riser but didn't want to permanently alter the walnut.
This Brit has a great solution, but I don't have a bandsaw
https://youtu.be/B0HQzRWHsNc?si=G80yJOmYCZs8Gylc
So I tried a cheap Amazon leather riser, which works well but is in the way of the bore guide and a PITA to get on & off
eBay has Tourbon foam risers... covered one in soles2dance stick-on suede, some velcro and it works pretty well. The one velcro strip on the walnut is easily removed later.
This Brit has a great solution, but I don't have a bandsaw
https://youtu.be/B0HQzRWHsNc?si=G80yJOmYCZs8Gylc
So I tried a cheap Amazon leather riser, which works well but is in the way of the bore guide and a PITA to get on & off
eBay has Tourbon foam risers... covered one in soles2dance stick-on suede, some velcro and it works pretty well. The one velcro strip on the walnut is easily removed later.
Adjusted the Scar to around an 8-9oz 1st and 16oz 2nd. Also eliminated the creep, bump test gtg. I think I'll keep it 
I know it's not as light as some of you fellas have em set. I can certainly see where a sub 1lb or even sub half pound is ideal for target.
I know it's not as light as some of you fellas have em set. I can certainly see where a sub 1lb or even sub half pound is ideal for target.
I'm not just satisfied with the factory triggers on my 457 VPT & American, I'm very pleased with them. Was able to adjust the American's trigger down to 1-1/4lbs, and the VPT's to 1lb even - though I'm going to bump the VPT back up to around the same as the American's, as I've had a couple of shots break before I was really ready. And it's not like I'm not experienced with very light custom triggers - the Jewell HVRs I have on several of my custom action tactical rifles are set right where they came out of the package, at 1lb. The Trigger Tech Diamonds on three of my V22s & a Rim-X are set at 1/2lb, and the Flavio Fare on a V22S BR rig is set at 8/10 oz. But those triggers were designed to be ran at those lighter weight breaks, while the CZ 457 was not. I give a big 'thumbs-up' to CZ to have had the intestinal fortitude to supply a fully-adjustable trigger on these rifles, since we all know that there's quite a surplus of lawyers in the country today. I gave some thought to placing an order for one of Bill's triggers, simply because of all the positive things I've heard about it since he brought it to the market, but when I heard how long it took to get one, I decided that there's nothing wrong with the OEM triggers, and I'm still very pleased with mine. Wishing Bill the best since he's closed out his business - I have bought 4 of his 25 MOA sloped rails for 457s, and am glad I got them while he was still making them.
Question to MTR owners. Will a Lilja straight .900 barrel fit in the wood stock?? The stock barrel is ,860 so it looks like it should fit. Anybody has one that can post a picture that would be great.
Thanks
Thanks
That stop before the mag is why I'm likely to go MDT if/when my rifles migrate into AL chassis-es
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Pretty easy to open up the barrel channel to fit the .900 barrel. Had to do it on the Boyd's stock that came on a 455. Wrapped sandpaper around a deep socket and went at it. You could even wrap a long strip of abrasive paper over your factory barrel if you were in a hurry.
A piece of aluminum angle makes a nice stop with the Bravo chassis.
I have a 23" Lilja. I have been shooting SK Rifle Match and it shoots well, but after my last range trip it looks like SK Standard+ shoots better. SK rifle match is around 1055fps at the muzzle and SK Standard+ is around 1035fps at the muzzle.
More lot testing is always fun. Would be great from a price point if SK works. Lapua, Eley and RWS are more costly.
Right now in my 457 at 25 yards Center X shoots 1 ragged hole groups but it not as good as RWS R100 or Special Match does at 50 to 200 yards..
I did a official 25 shot Rimfire 50 yard target test and this was the scores
RWS 100 shot 247 out of 250 with 9x
RWS Special Match shot 245 with 6x (Had 1 flyer in the 8 ring)
Lapua Center X shot 241 with 3x ( Had 2 flyers,1 in the 8 ring and 1 way out in the 6 ring) Disappointed in the Centex X.
It's strange cause with the same lot of Center X shot 247 11x at last months 50 yard match( no flyers just 3 in the 9 ring. Both days had very little to no wind.
Right now in my 457 at 25 yards Center X shoots 1 ragged hole groups but it not as good as RWS R100 or Special Match does at 50 to 200 yards..
I did a official 25 shot Rimfire 50 yard target test and this was the scores
RWS 100 shot 247 out of 250 with 9x
RWS Special Match shot 245 with 6x (Had 1 flyer in the 8 ring)
Lapua Center X shot 241 with 3x ( Had 2 flyers,1 in the 8 ring and 1 way out in the 6 ring) Disappointed in the Centex X.
It's strange cause with the same lot of Center X shot 247 11x at last months 50 yard match( no flyers just 3 in the 9 ring. Both days had very little to no wind.
Thank you for the info, Lash. Did you have to relieve the stock to inset the t-nuts? I'm wondering if the barrel is close enough to contact the t-nuts?
I first used a 3/4” forstner bit to relieve the stock at each location, then drilled through with the right drill for the body of the t-nut. I didn’t want to take any chances of barrel contact either.
Forstner bits:
And after i get the screw cut to length, i back fill the hole with 5 minute epoxy so that nothing comes loose and humidity cannot get into the wood.
David
Here is a picture. I don’t use T nuts but a washer and Aircraft nut. Same function. Then i sand the barrel channel to round out the eoxy if needed and reseal
David
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I've had my 457 V-MTR since Spring and have found SK+ and SK-RM to shoot very well for 'medium-priced ammo', and the Lapua Center-X was much better. The diff between 0.4-6xx" groups to 0.2-3xx" groups. And I've found that CCI-SV does almost as well as the SK flavors. I got some SK Magazine to use as 'foulers', it's a bit cheaper to throw 10 or so of these first after a cleaning. I'm using an Athlon Argos 8-34x56 FFP, on an Area 419 30* rail and I find the bubble helps tighten groups more than without using it. I've got my Timney trigger down to about 5-6-oz and that helps too.
I’ve used the CCI-SV before too and currently use mostly SK+ for PRS22 matches. But it really depends on the lot# for each of them. Neither is really match grade for groups, though you can occasionally get nice small ones when the planets align and you don’t get a flyer.
I did some lower end group testing today and shot Wolf Match, CCI Standard and and CCI Green Tag. I used an IBS Rimfire 50 yard target.
There are 25 targets so 250 is a perfect score
Wolf Match = 226 3x . One flyer missed the entire circle by 1/4 if an inch
Standard = 237 1x. There were 4 flyers in the 8 ring the rest were in the 10 ring.
CCI Green Tag = 240 4x There 2 in the 8 ring and in the 9 ring.
Previous post results.
RWS 100 shot 247 out of 250 with 9x
RWS Special Match shot 245 with 6x (Had 1 flyer in the 8 ring)
Lapua Center X shot 241 with 3x ( Had 2 flyers,1 in the 8 ring and 1 way out in the 6 ring) Disappointed in the Centex X.
So for me RWS R-100 is what works best at 50 yards. The Center X disappointed me as it shot waY better in my Vudoo then in the CZ 457 MTR.
When I get the new 22 inch Lilja barrel and get it broke in am going to look more the SK line and see how it shoots. I really what to try LR Match and Biathlon.
There are 25 targets so 250 is a perfect score
Wolf Match = 226 3x . One flyer missed the entire circle by 1/4 if an inch
Standard = 237 1x. There were 4 flyers in the 8 ring the rest were in the 10 ring.
CCI Green Tag = 240 4x There 2 in the 8 ring and in the 9 ring.
Previous post results.
RWS 100 shot 247 out of 250 with 9x
RWS Special Match shot 245 with 6x (Had 1 flyer in the 8 ring)
Lapua Center X shot 241 with 3x ( Had 2 flyers,1 in the 8 ring and 1 way out in the 6 ring) Disappointed in the Centex X.
So for me RWS R-100 is what works best at 50 yards. The Center X disappointed me as it shot waY better in my Vudoo then in the CZ 457 MTR.
When I get the new 22 inch Lilja barrel and get it broke in am going to look more the SK line and see how it shoots. I really what to try LR Match and Biathlon.
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I assume that you meant 20” barrel. Or are you starting a new super short barrel trend? 
I’m looking at a 457 MTR to replace my VQ summit that I just can’t get to shoot consistently. The MTR stock looks relatively similar to my Centurion I run on my match rifle. Could someone measure the distance from the front of the grip to the face of the trigger for me please? As well as face of trigger to end of butt stock? Thanks!!!
Front of the grip to center of curve of the trigger is 1.375". ( 7/8" from front of the grip to the back of the trigger guard and 1/2" from there to trigger.) LOP is 13.5". Very comfortable rifle to shoot off the bench.
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Here is the CZ 457 MTR with the following mods AREA 419 30 MOA rail and bolt knob, Timney Trigger, Lilja .900 22in barrel. The barrel fit with no clearance issues.
I am working on refinishing my MTR stock. It has beautiful grain that CZ did a good job of hiding. The issue is that i want to remove the recoil pad. I can take out the 2 screws that hold it on. They are T15 screws but the recoil pad doesn’t separate from the stock. I hit it with my rubber mallet. But it didn’t budge. Are they glued on or???
Thanks
David
Thanks
David
From what I've read (haven't taken mine off) it may just be adhering due to 'tacky finish' or there may be a light adhesive. Most folk have just used a thin knife like an OLFA to pry the pad off. Just use caution . . .
I've taken several off for refinish. I'm not sure if it's adhesive or just the stock finish that glues them on but they can be stuck pretty good. I always just give them a few good raps with a rubber mallet. I bet your amazed with your results. I still don't understand why CZ uses that ultramud finish.
Here is the my MTR stock after being stripped with laquer thinner and the sanded and steel wooled, then 1 coat of stain. It looked nothing like this when I started.
David
David
Looks like you got a nice one. It's got a nice mix of color variation, some tiger stripe and interesting grain. That should turn out nice if you take your time. What are you using for finish? I usually use tru oil but have recently had good luck with minwax wipe on poly too.
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David, Nice figuring on the stock. Mine didn't have the 'mud', but I cleaned it a bit anyway. I used hot water and Dawn soap, and did several washes (4-5?) until a white rag came off clean. The OEM stain must have been a bit 'soluble', it lightened a good deal. Then I just gave 4-5 coats of Minwax Paste Floor wax - it's meant to be walked on but I don't plan to go that far Turned out pretty good for a 'wash 'n' wax job'. I plan to take off some of the color of the stippling this Winter.
Turned out pretty good for a 'wash 'n' wax job'. I plan to take off some of the color of the stippling this Winter.I have used Minwax Special Walnut for the stain. I now have 2 coats on it of stain on it. Now I will start sealing it with Minwax Polycrylic. It is a water based urethane. I used to use Minwax Polyurethane but since it was mineral spirits based it would disolve some of the stain. The Polycrylic is water based so I don't think I will have that issue. I normally use about 5 to 6 coats that were 400 grit sanded between each coat. the final coat gets 0000 steel wool and then renaissance waxed. The reason I don't use tru oil is that even after it dries our bore solvents will attack it and make it splotchy. It is cold here in NC right now so I can't shoot rimfire so this has been a good time for doing the pillar bedding and refinishing the rifle. Keeps me off the streets
David
Didn’t want to start a new thread so I’ll just ask here.
Been contemplating on getting a new barrel for my MTR. Am looking at the proof CF 18.5” option or maybe a Lilja. In reality my MTR factory barrel shoots great and only has 2k rounds through it and perhaps most importantly it loves cheap Norma Tac 22. What can I really expect from replacing it?
Been contemplating on getting a new barrel for my MTR. Am looking at the proof CF 18.5” option or maybe a Lilja. In reality my MTR factory barrel shoots great and only has 2k rounds through it and perhaps most importantly it loves cheap Norma Tac 22. What can I really expect from replacing it?
