Dammnn..Walked past this little gem today. View attachment 8295337View attachment 8295338
what specs/details??
1St Ive seen/heard of these..
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Dammnn..Walked past this little gem today. View attachment 8295337View attachment 8295338
A nice piece of work with plenty of power for a single cab truck. This place can explain far better than IDammnn..
what specs/details??
1St Ive seen/heard of these..
... 60 mph arrives in 4.2 seconds. The quarter-mile shows up in 12.4 seconds at 112 mph—however, it could be way quicker.
Technically, the top speed is governed at 105 mph, for warranty reasons. Presumably to keep the driveshaft from puking out its internals like Timmy on the Tilt-a-Whirl. It takes nearly 950 feet for the FP700 to reach 105 mph in the fourth of the 10-speed transmission's cogs and well before the coveted 1320-foot quarter-mile mark. A programming glitch allowed our test truck to power its way to 120 mph, albeit in a reduced power state. With a higher-speed limiter, the blown F-150 has the potential to be the quickest truck we've ever run through the quarter-mile.
And I believe Jay Leno tortured one on an episode of his show, but I could have remembered wrong. I know someone somewhere did an episode with it a while back.Dammnn..
what specs/details??
1St Ive seen/heard of these..
I think we've turned the corner and are moving from disassembly to reassembly:
View attachment 8300608View attachment 8300609View attachment 8300610
Really looking forward to some car-show Boomer's explanation about how this particular shade of Chevy Engine Red is proper for a 1960s big-block but not an early 70s small-block.
I thought its orange... or blue right... im going to have to completely rethink what to paint my LS going into my miata... maybe ill paint it black and tell people its just a cheap ass iron block truck 6.0...
Black conducts heat a touch better than lighter colors. Black also lets you find cracks easier!
Black conducts heat a touch better than lighter colors. Black also lets you find cracks easier!
I'm a fan of running 0W40 Mobil 1 on the track - it hasn't let me down despite some scary oil temps at the end of a 20-minute session. Lots of good choices nowadays. For a stock engine, GM should have recommendations that are more than adequate.
I hope that flat tappet cam lives. Seems like there are a lot of horror stories these days.
Lucas Hot Rod Classic 20-50 with extra zink.I hope that flat tappet cam lives. Seems like there are a lot of horror stories these days.
Connecting rods should always be resized when changing hardware and especially during a rebuild.Anyone done arp rod bolts? Did you have the size the big end?
Parts are in the mail for my "racecar" build.
I’ve always used the VR1 in my 66VWLucas Hot Rod Classic 20-50 with extra zink.
I don't think that any of us expect any highly modified motor to last forever. It's a given part of the hobby that things are probably going to fail.
Connecting rods should always be resized when changing hardware and especially during a rebuild.
Correct. I don't know what engine we're talking about, but if it's an LS, then this task is made more difficult by the use of "cracked caps". It's not possible to dust a few thou off the mating surfaces and resize the big end as one would do with a conventional rod.
Well, I hope it makes it through break-in for you.Lucas Hot Rod Classic 20-50 with extra zink.
I don't think that any of us expect any highly modified motor to last forever. It's a given part of the hobby that things are probably going to fail.
If they're cracked caps then you can put new hardware in make sure your bearing clearances are still in spec. ARP also recommends using bolt stretch to tighten the rods instead of just a torque setting.I think it's a cracked cap style
It's a u20sed from a suzuki. Hoping for 100hp at the wheels......
The arp bolts are for sustained rpm during 24 hours of lemons races.
I use a break in oil and then switch to the Lucas on first change. I cut open the filter and inspect the pleats for anything abnormal.Well, I hope it makes it through break-in for you.
The last time I had my crate on the dyno - the dyno shop owner rolled a mop and bucket over to the thing and told me that if I kept fucking around - it would be needed. I am very glad he was wrong!I use a break in oil and then switch to the Lucas on first change. I cut open the filter and inspect the pleats for anything abnormal.
It'll be on a dyno for break in and tuning. I have videos of the last couple times I have built one. If it expires I want video of it.
That’s a weird looking harmonic balancer
I bet you can't wait till I post pictures of the babbitt bearings being poured into the connecting rods.That’s a weird looking harmonic balancer
Make sure you pack the bearings with a high quality grease firstI bet you can't wait till I post pictures of the babbitt bearings being poured into the connecting rods.
NO!Make sure you pack the bearings with a high quality grease first
I dont know why... but this should go in a 1st gen toyota 4x4
OM606 4x4 swaps into just about everything are super popularI dont know why... but this should go in a 1st gen toyota 4x4
Looks good for another 50K miles
Looks good for another 50K miles
You don’t even need that, just cross-thread everything and it’ll be locked solid
A cross thread is a lock thread!You don’t even need that, just cross-thread everything and it’ll be locked solid
Beast of a motor in those VMAX's..This is one of my favorite bikes. Stupid fast. View attachment 8301218View attachment 8301219
You don’t even need that, just cross-thread everything and it’ll be locked solid
Last weekend I broke the bit on an impact driver, you know, big thick screw bit, smack with hammer it turn a little. Nope got two of the screws out. (hinge screws on the VW) Three stripped, and one snapped the bit half in two.
Kroil is your friend. I put that shit on everything. Like the commercial.Last weekend I broke the bit on an impact driver, you know, big thick screw bit, smack with hammer it turn a little. Nope got two of the screws out. (hinge screws on the VW) Three stripped, and one snapped the bit half in two.
I bet I had that tool 40 years. It was the father in law's.
Out with the drill.
A first gen MR2 and a Gulf liveried Opel GT all in one post. Great way for me to waste time while I do control arm bushings.I have talked about my cars, back when I was racing, but never really posted any photos up. Days before every camera had a phone.
The wife was going over the photos over the weekend and I snagged a couple.
First is at world of wheels in KC. I took 2nd place for production race car behind a real comp cobra. I don't think you have much chance of winning against that. I did not even know there was something I could win. The club liked my car and asked me to bring it. It was a huge hit, not just the SCCA booth but the entire show. So many people coming by, oh I had one of those, my girl friend in high school had one of those....talked to people for hours.
View attachment 8305892
View attachment 8305893
This one is first time out at Hallett on the false grid. Lights are up as the other side was not finished yet. The car was not ready to run but I did it anyway. Blew an oil line on about lap 4 of the first race. Ran the rest of the event and the motor gave up near the end, just started loosing power.
View attachment 8305895
Before that I ran an MR2, Heartland Park Topeka.
View attachment 8305896
View attachment 8305897
You can't tell in the photos but from roughly the beltline on the Opel up was all in pearl.A first gen MR2 and a Gulf liveried Opel GT all in one post. Great way for me to waste time while I do control arm bushings.