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Horse Power, Track Shit, Torque, Cubic Inches, Liters, Run What Ya Brung, Auto or Cycle
- Thread starter DarnYankeeUSMC
- Start date
- Nov 3, 2010
- 9,728
- 20,515
A nice piece of work with plenty of power for a single cab truck. This place can explain far better than I
https://www.motortrend.com/news/2021-shelby-ford-f-150-super-snake-first-look-review/
There are some dealers that are dropping blowers on RCSB F-150s and selling them for $45-50k:
Done properly, you'll retain some semblance of a warranty and the truck still works like any other 1/2-ton pickup. Not a bad deal.
I'm generally not a big Ford guy, but the capability of the Coyote greatly impresses me, and the company's commitment to the Mustang far exceeds that of GM's to its non-Corvette performance nameplates. That suggests better support from the aftermarket now and into the future. Now, if only they would have built support for a proper fuel composition sensor into their ECMs...
Done properly, you'll retain some semblance of a warranty and the truck still works like any other 1/2-ton pickup. Not a bad deal.
I'm generally not a big Ford guy, but the capability of the Coyote greatly impresses me, and the company's commitment to the Mustang far exceeds that of GM's to its non-Corvette performance nameplates. That suggests better support from the aftermarket now and into the future. Now, if only they would have built support for a proper fuel composition sensor into their ECMs...
Here's an idea of how it runs:
- Nov 3, 2010
- 9,728
- 20,515
And I believe Jay Leno tortured one on an episode of his show, but I could have remembered wrong. I know someone somewhere did an episode with it a while back.
I think we've turned the corner and are moving from disassembly to reassembly:
Gonna let this POR-15 harden for a few days, then run a Roloc pad over the gasket surfaces. Really looking forward to some car-show Boomer's explanation about how this particular shade of Chevy Engine Red is proper for a 1960s big-block but not an early 70s small-block.
Gonna let this POR-15 harden for a few days, then run a Roloc pad over the gasket surfaces. Really looking forward to some car-show Boomer's explanation about how this particular shade of Chevy Engine Red is proper for a 1960s big-block but not an early 70s small-block.
I thought its orange... or blue right... im going to have to completely rethink what to paint my LS going into my miata... maybe ill paint it black and tell people its just a cheap ass iron block truck 6.0...
Black is not a bad choice.
Not an LS
Not an LS
If you go far enough back in the GM timeline, just about every color had its moment. I've always had a soft spot for the GM corporate blue color from the late 70s and early 80s, because that's what I remember seeing at the GMC dealership my dad worked at during that time. Not a great match for a burgundy car IMO, so red/orange it is.
Black conducts heat a touch better than lighter colors. Black also lets you find cracks easier!
"Well there's your problem..."
One new longblock, one new oil cooling system, two new turbos and almost 20 aviation monetary units later, WE'RE BACK BABY!
Engine/tune is 100% stock for the 36mo GM warranty, which covers on-track failures. Trying to burn through the 1500mi break-in before Barber on 13-14 January. Trying to decide if I run Amsoil Signature 5w30 (factory spec weight) or step into something like LiquiMoly MolyGen 5w40 for track season...I think 5w50 Supercar might be a bit much for stock power and no ethanol.
One new longblock, one new oil cooling system, two new turbos and almost 20 aviation monetary units later, WE'RE BACK BABY!
Engine/tune is 100% stock for the 36mo GM warranty, which covers on-track failures. Trying to burn through the 1500mi break-in before Barber on 13-14 January. Trying to decide if I run Amsoil Signature 5w30 (factory spec weight) or step into something like LiquiMoly MolyGen 5w40 for track season...I think 5w50 Supercar might be a bit much for stock power and no ethanol.
I wouldnt run 5w30 of any flavor on track personally... thins out to much at high temps.
I run Amsoil Signature 5w50 in my track car with good results and I dont have an oil cooler.
Let me know if you need some Amsoil as I am a dealer. I sell at cost, but if you are already a preferred customer, its not really any cheaper usually.
I run Amsoil Signature 5w50 in my track car with good results and I dont have an oil cooler.
Let me know if you need some Amsoil as I am a dealer. I sell at cost, but if you are already a preferred customer, its not really any cheaper usually.
... but most importantly, black hides oil leaks the best.
I'm a fan of running 0W40 Mobil 1 on the track - it hasn't let me down despite some scary oil temps at the end of a 20-minute session. Lots of good choices nowadays. For a stock engine, GM should have recommendations that are more than adequate.
They recommend 5w30 for all uses in the LF4 (ATS-V and CT4-V Blackwing)...but after a rod bearing failure with less than 20k miles and 16 track days on the motor (which saw fresh Mobil1 every 3k or 3 track days whichever came first) and multiple clean Blackstone analysis, I'm hesitant to go down that path. Occasional TNiA or HPDE likely fine, but for multiple days of high intermediate/advanced driving when its 90F+ outside, probably not so much.
Worth noting GM recommends 0w40 Supercar for the LT4 in the CT5VBW for all uses, but specifes 15w50 in the LT4 when tracking a ZL1 1LE.
I hope that flat tappet cam lives. Seems like there are a lot of horror stories these days.
Lucas Hot Rod Classic 20-50 with extra zink.
I don't think that any of us expect any highly modified motor to last forever. It's a given part of the hobby that things are probably going to fail.
Connecting rods should always be resized when changing hardware and especially during a rebuild.
- Nov 3, 2010
- 9,728
- 20,515
Correct. I don't know what engine we're talking about, but if it's an LS, then this task is made more difficult by the use of "cracked caps". It's not possible to dust a few thou off the mating surfaces and resize the big end as one would do with a conventional rod.
I think it's a cracked cap style
It's a u20sed from a suzuki. Hoping for 100hp at the wheels......
The arp bolts are for sustained rpm during 24 hours of lemons races.
If they're cracked caps then you can put new hardware in make sure your bearing clearances are still in spec. ARP also recommends using bolt stretch to tighten the rods instead of just a torque setting.
I use a break in oil and then switch to the Lucas on first change. I cut open the filter and inspect the pleats for anything abnormal.
It'll be on a dyno for break in and tuning. I have videos of the last couple times I have built one. If it expires I want video of it.
The last time I had my crate on the dyno - the dyno shop owner rolled a mop and bucket over to the thing and told me that if I kept fucking around - it would be needed. I am very glad he was wrong!
That’s a weird looking harmonic balancer
I bet you can't wait till I post pictures of the babbitt bearings being poured into the connecting rods.
Make sure you pack the bearings with a high quality grease first
You don’t even need that, just cross-thread everything and it’ll be locked solid
Beast of a motor in those VMAX's..
If they shoehorned that monster into a more agile/lighter, more aero sportbike and threw a centrifugal blower on it ala the Kawi H2... I cant even imagine the permanent arm-stretcher that would end up being...
Last weekend I broke the bit on an impact driver, you know, big thick screw bit, smack with hammer it turn a little. Nope got two of the screws out. (hinge screws on the VW) Three stripped, and one snapped the bit half in two.
I bet I had that tool 40 years. It was the father in law's.
Out with the drill.
Kroil is your friend. I put that shit on everything. Like the commercial.
I use it to clean barrels and actions. I've got a dirty muzzleloader that's going to get a treatment today.
I have talked about my cars, back when I was racing, but never really posted any photos up. Days before every camera had a phone.
The wife was going over the photos over the weekend and I snagged a couple.
First is at world of wheels in KC. I took 2nd place for production race car behind a real comp cobra. I don't think you have much chance of winning against that. I did not even know there was something I could win. The club liked my car and asked me to bring it. It was a huge hit, not just the SCCA booth but the entire show. So many people coming by, oh I had one of those, my girl friend in high school had one of those....talked to people for hours.
This one is first time out at Hallett on the false grid. Lights are up as the other side was not finished yet. The car was not ready to run but I did it anyway. Blew an oil line on about lap 4 of the first race. Ran the rest of the event and the motor gave up near the end, just started loosing power.
Before that I ran an MR2, Heartland Park Topeka.
The wife was going over the photos over the weekend and I snagged a couple.
First is at world of wheels in KC. I took 2nd place for production race car behind a real comp cobra. I don't think you have much chance of winning against that. I did not even know there was something I could win. The club liked my car and asked me to bring it. It was a huge hit, not just the SCCA booth but the entire show. So many people coming by, oh I had one of those, my girl friend in high school had one of those....talked to people for hours.
This one is first time out at Hallett on the false grid. Lights are up as the other side was not finished yet. The car was not ready to run but I did it anyway. Blew an oil line on about lap 4 of the first race. Ran the rest of the event and the motor gave up near the end, just started loosing power.
Before that I ran an MR2, Heartland Park Topeka.
A first gen MR2 and a Gulf liveried Opel GT all in one post. Great way for me to waste time while I do control arm bushings.
You can't tell in the photos but from roughly the beltline on the Opel up was all in pearl.
God she is a good looking car.
