No video yet, but HUGE thank you to Jay with Sure Shot NV. Hopefully tomorrow night I'll have video and pictures of some hogs and deer down doing dep hunting for some of my local farmers!
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Night Vision IRay RH25 Micro video/picture thread
- Thread starter Surgeon_Shooter
- Start date
I am going to try and mount my gopro to the buffer tube for some better pictures, through the optic with a cellphone camera is not easy.
The house is about 250 yards 2x 4x 8x. The dog is up close on 1x, that hot blob is a cow eating (head down) at 600 yards. Image quality is alright, I was able to follow a rabbit at 300 yards and see its ears and hind legs as it moves.
The house is about 250 yards 2x 4x 8x. The dog is up close on 1x, that hot blob is a cow eating (head down) at 600 yards. Image quality is alright, I was able to follow a rabbit at 300 yards and see its ears and hind legs as it moves.
Attachments
Last edited:
That is not going to work. As you can already see from trying your phone, you need something with MORE zoom than 1x to capture the image. A GoPro, without modification, has LESS than 1X.
OK, what’s the best ways to bridge mount one of these with a PVS-14? I’m thinking PVS14 on the strong side eye and the thermal on the weak side so if the thermal is dismounted I can still use the i2 NV to operate operationally...
Also, what all accessories do I need for helmet and also clip on mounting? Dovetail shoe thing and the double-sided ADM mount thing?
Also, what all accessories do I need for helmet and also clip on mounting? Dovetail shoe thing and the double-sided ADM mount thing?
why not just blue tooth to your phone and capture the pictures and or video that way
You're on the right track with your plan and which accessories you need. When doing tasks that will get you kilt in the streets, your brain will work VERY hard to use the dominant-eye image. That's why I put my PVS-14 on my dominant eye when I run dual band.
Because what he's wanting to do is capture the image HE is seeing, which is his NF reticle imposed on the iRay screen. See post #245.
Really though, if you're not running dual HMT, are you even operating operationally?
Agree completely…Really though, if you're not running dual HMT, are you even operating operationally?
Why does the movie Blazing Saddles come to mind and the scene where the sheriff of Rock Ridge says let me pull this out.
Horta will allow no other man to flex on this forum
Really though, if you're not running dual HMT, are you even operating operationally?
Holy shit.. well I’m just going to save myself $5980, go to Home Depot, buy a $20 shovel and dig a hole to crawl into and die at this point.
That's what's up. Have you figured out how to keep the compass from coming back on every time you power cycle the units?
Do you like being lost? Because that’s how you get lost.
Yes, and it also reappears every time you press any button, or use the menus, etc. But that's not what I was asking.
What I was asking is if you've found a way to keep the damned compass off permanently. Even when I toggle the compass off, the next time I turn the scope off and on, it doesn't save my settings and the compass is back on.
It’s FFP, so no reason it wouldn’t work great... when the image degrades to the point you’re unhappy, just dial it back.
Most things I’m reading/hearing and seeing in YouTube videos are the image is great up to 4X and really starts to fall apart after 6X.
Only thing I’d be concerned about is something that was SFP with an 8-10x or larger zoom. You’ll never the subtensions correct before the image goes to shit
Most things I’m reading/hearing and seeing in YouTube videos are the image is great up to 4X and really starts to fall apart after 6X.
Only thing I’d be concerned about is something that was SFP with an 8-10x or larger zoom. You’ll never the subtensions correct before the image goes to shit
Last edited:
Couple of tech questions I can’t seem to find online and an observation... (I’m an opto-mechanical engineer, by trade)
1) how many “zero profiles” does the RH25 have? Do the zero profiles allow for setting it up for some rifles in clip-on mode or other on standalone mode? How does that work?
B) Is there a manual available for download?
iii) I noticed the factory mount has recoil/acceleration reducing features and the RH25 is rated to .300WM ... clever (I always thought someone should make linearly damped optic mounts for abusive weapons like the SCAR.) However this raises a host of questions, because most aren’t using it... wouldn’t our use of the ADM mount and pictail remove these recoil mitigating features and thusly necessitate a caliber derating? (ie: Was the weapon endurance tested & approved with the dampened mount or the pictail mount?) Does the use of a rigid mount on a weapon void warranty in any way? Perhaps the use of the pictail mount is the reason users see the screen flickering during recoil mentioned earlier this thread. I can’t imagine that’s typical or acceptable behavior on a unit approved for production... I’ve never noticed it on Yoters. Which is doubly confusing because I’d assume they share the same infiray micro II core and are rigid mounted.
1) how many “zero profiles” does the RH25 have? Do the zero profiles allow for setting it up for some rifles in clip-on mode or other on standalone mode? How does that work?
B) Is there a manual available for download?
iii) I noticed the factory mount has recoil/acceleration reducing features and the RH25 is rated to .300WM ... clever (I always thought someone should make linearly damped optic mounts for abusive weapons like the SCAR.) However this raises a host of questions, because most aren’t using it... wouldn’t our use of the ADM mount and pictail remove these recoil mitigating features and thusly necessitate a caliber derating? (ie: Was the weapon endurance tested & approved with the dampened mount or the pictail mount?) Does the use of a rigid mount on a weapon void warranty in any way? Perhaps the use of the pictail mount is the reason users see the screen flickering during recoil mentioned earlier this thread. I can’t imagine that’s typical or acceptable behavior on a unit approved for production... I’ve never noticed it on Yoters. Which is doubly confusing because I’d assume they share the same infiray micro II core and are rigid mounted.
Last edited:
I have been pretty happy with the NX8 and preferred it greatly over my 4x acog. Having the ability to zoom down to 1x for field of view is very nice.
As stated above 1x-4x has a good image, 6x is usable once you know what your looking at if that makes sense.
I haven't had much time to take pictures, and I suck at getting a accurate representation of what it looks like but here's a few more:
Top of the hill is 470 yards, 2x & 4x.
Attachments
I’d imagine the Vortex Gen2 HD 1-6x a good pairing with this right?
I have a Razor HD LH 2-10x (G4 BDC SFP) and a Leupold VX6 Multigun 1-6x (CMR2) available to use. The 2-10x is probably a very poor choice and I feel like a Razor JM1 reticle is probably going to be a bit cleaner/finer than the VX6 CMR2. It probably edges out the Leupy in glass and toughness, too. So I’m thinking about selling the VX6 and put the cash towards a used Razor Gen2... that extra ~1/2 pound is a bit of a pill to swallow.
I have a Razor HD LH 2-10x (G4 BDC SFP) and a Leupold VX6 Multigun 1-6x (CMR2) available to use. The 2-10x is probably a very poor choice and I feel like a Razor JM1 reticle is probably going to be a bit cleaner/finer than the VX6 CMR2. It probably edges out the Leupy in glass and toughness, too. So I’m thinking about selling the VX6 and put the cash towards a used Razor Gen2... that extra ~1/2 pound is a bit of a pill to swallow.
I planned on using it mainly with a T5XI 1-5, SFP, and hoped to have a useable BDC. I ultimately returned my RH25 as I found the image at 5x barely usable. Screen was nice and sharp with pixels easily visible, but just not enough thermal detail to use with BDC. Also it wasn’t great in front of a 3.5x TA-11 were I expected it to be a nice pairing. I think 1-4 is reasonable with 1-3 being the most useable range. I am keeping my Nox35 and seeing what else comes along for the time being.
It’s an interesting device. I found it easier to find things scanning as it seemed to be more sensitive and has a much heavier processing of the image leading to high contrast scenes with little noise. Moving objects noticeably pop in the relatively calm and clean image. I also found it to be pretty terrible at 4x digital zoom compared to my Nox35. The RH25 looks like zooming in on an overly processed photo. I find the Nox35 annoying at times due to the image being grainy, but the 4x digital zoom is fairly useful as you can pickup details mixed in with the nosy image. Ignoring the obvious base mag difference, it was really interesting to see two very distinct image processing algorithms head to head.
Everything else about the RH25 seems spot on.
Here is the sections of the manual that talk about your questions. I haven't messed around with zero profiles, this unit will be used mainly as a scanner and clip-on for one rifle for me.
Clip on adjustment just shifts the screen on X & Y axis. On other clip-on's I've used there was a reticle that was aligned with the day scope to collimate but not the case here, more or less just eyeball it center with your optic.
Attachments
Last edited:
Its a Marathon MSAR auto, held up awesome to some pretty hard use over the last few years.
https://www.marathonwatch.com/colle...edium-divers-automatic?variant=39777488797738
Has anyone put round on paper with the RH25 in clip-on mode yet? I checked zro for the first time today and wasn't anywhere close to being on paper even up to 25 yards. I dont know if I am missing a step in "collimating" but going off the manual: long press POWER & MENU buttons gives me a blank screen to adjust but no reticle to line up with my day scope. I spoke with another member who had a similar experience.
Update: I placed the rifle in my shop vice and focused across the shop, adjusted the thermal screen to line up on the same point as the day scope (it was way off). Now check this out, while focusing the thermal my reticle starts walking, down & left when turning clockwise, up and right while turning counter clockwise.... tell me thats not normal?
Update: I placed the rifle in my shop vice and focused across the shop, adjusted the thermal screen to line up on the same point as the day scope (it was way off). Now check this out, while focusing the thermal my reticle starts walking, down & left when turning clockwise, up and right while turning counter clockwise.... tell me thats not normal?
Last edited:
When I zeroed my RH25, I needed to zero my day scope as well, so I just zeroed the whole rig by adjusting the day scope's turrets at 50 yards and never fooled with the RH25, even though it was attached and in clip-on mode. I hit this yote at 277 yards on the run last night, so I guess it's dialed in.
As I understand it, the units are "somewhat" collimated at the factory. They may be on, or a little off (or a lot off, I guess—who tf knows at this point). If I were in your shoes, would go off what the manual says on Page 39, Step 7(e): at 50 yards, 1 "click" equals .58 inches.
When my two arrived a couple of months ago, I popped one in front of a day-zeroed Razor 1-10, adjusted the eyepiece to get a sharp screen, and was within 1-MOA at 100-yards. Took nothing more and was GTG in 60 seconds.
Nailed a yote at 150 yards with it later that night handheld/standing.
Interesting. I’m having same problem as @Ranger93
Popped the RH25 infront of my razor 1-6 which is zero’d at 50yds and shot at 50yds…. Not even on paper. No idea where I was hitting. Dicked around for a bit but had other things to do. Going to try and get it going next week here.
Popped the RH25 infront of my razor 1-6 which is zero’d at 50yds and shot at 50yds…. Not even on paper. No idea where I was hitting. Dicked around for a bit but had other things to do. Going to try and get it going next week here.
Are you adjusting the RH25 eyepiece at max optical magnification on your scope?
Yep, adjusted the rh25 eyepiece focus to be clearest as possible to the scope and adjusted the front lens focus to be clear as possible too.
I noticed in the video that the image in the scope was shifting when adjusting the focus of the objective on that RH25. I just double checked one of my RH25s and the image does NOT shift at all while focusing the front objective. I also double checked the POI shift and there is none at all. I put the day scope dot on a target about 150 yards away, cinched it down in the tripod and ball head and then put on the RH25 — there was 0-MOA shift that I could discern. Day dot was in precisely the same spot (two medium-sized branches meeting in a “V” on a tree). I had the scope all the way up to 10x.
Taken just now.
Taken just now.
I adjusted my RH25 focus to the point where there was zero parallax on my day scope when moving my head around. It was REAL close to the factory dot mark on the focus piece... like 1-2 mm left of it. I did this with the RH25 objective focuses at infinity and my LPVO at 6x.
Looking through a day optic in clip-on mode, it seems like the RH25 ocular focus is WAY more sensitive/important than the RH25 objective focus or the LPVO eye focus. Being just a hair off on the RH25 ocular get noticeable real quick on 4x-6x and there’s also noticeable parallax moving your head around.
Standalone is pretty forgiving because the reticle is baked into the projected screen image (there is no head position parallax) and your eye will naturally sharpen up slight misfocus.
I went ahead and used silver/black sharpie to put a new dot for the LPVO Diopter setting and my eye’s diopter setting as well as the objective’s infinite focus point (and on the flip-cap too). So before ever turning it on, I can dial in the optics where they need to be instead of fiddling with it while looking through a scope.
I mark all my scopes/PVS14s this way. Easy and non permanent with a little rubbing alcohol.
Looking through a day optic in clip-on mode, it seems like the RH25 ocular focus is WAY more sensitive/important than the RH25 objective focus or the LPVO eye focus. Being just a hair off on the RH25 ocular get noticeable real quick on 4x-6x and there’s also noticeable parallax moving your head around.
Standalone is pretty forgiving because the reticle is baked into the projected screen image (there is no head position parallax) and your eye will naturally sharpen up slight misfocus.
I went ahead and used silver/black sharpie to put a new dot for the LPVO Diopter setting and my eye’s diopter setting as well as the objective’s infinite focus point (and on the flip-cap too). So before ever turning it on, I can dial in the optics where they need to be instead of fiddling with it while looking through a scope.
I mark all my scopes/PVS14s this way. Easy and non permanent with a little rubbing alcohol.
Attachments
Last edited:
Thanks for the replies I'm going to send mine in tomorrow for a replacement.
So… I have twin RH-25’s and have used both helmet-mounted, but only one of them on a rifle. I took the other one out today while doing a POI shift comparison with the new Steiner C35, Voodoo-S, SkeetIR-x, UTM-x, TigIR-6M, and UTC-Xii.
Mounted Unit #2, everything looked good, Clipon Mode engaged, popped off a round, unit shuts off. I’ve seen this with other thermals before and it was usually a not-fully-tightened battery compartment, so I go to tighten it, but it won’t go any tighter. Turn it back on, pop-off another round, unit turns off again. Swap batteries, check tightness. Check mount. Not too close scope, all looks good. Turns off again.
This was on a suppressed Geissele 16” DDC in 5.56, so nothing out of the ordinary.
Anyone else having this issue?
Mounted Unit #2, everything looked good, Clipon Mode engaged, popped off a round, unit shuts off. I’ve seen this with other thermals before and it was usually a not-fully-tightened battery compartment, so I go to tighten it, but it won’t go any tighter. Turn it back on, pop-off another round, unit turns off again. Swap batteries, check tightness. Check mount. Not too close scope, all looks good. Turns off again.
This was on a suppressed Geissele 16” DDC in 5.56, so nothing out of the ordinary.
Anyone else having this issue?
Measure the length of your batteries. My Nvision did that and it was due to the shorter length 18650sSo… I have twin RH-25’s and have used both helmet-mounted, but only one of them on a rifle. I took the other one out today while doing a POI shift comparison with the new Steiner C35, Voodoo-S, SkeetIR-x, UTM-x, TigIR-6M, and UTC-Xii.
Mounted Unit #2, everything looked good, Clipon Mode engaged, popped off a round, unit shuts off. I’ve seen this with other thermals before and it was usually a not-fully-tightened battery compartment, so I go to tighten it, but it won’t go any tighter. Turn it back on, pop-off another round, unit turns off again. Swap batteries, check tightness. Check mount. Not too close scope, all looks good. Turns off again.
This was on a suppressed Geissele 16” DDC in 5.56, so nothing out of the ordinary.
Anyone else having this issue?
Prob be good to tell us what batteries you're using, just so folks can keep track. And which of the two included caps you're running. And how many shots have you taken with the RH25, ever? I probably only have 20 rounds downrange with mine at the moment.So… I have twin RH-25’s and have used both helmet-mounted, but only one of them on a rifle. I took the other one out today while doing a POI shift comparison with the new Steiner C35, Voodoo-S, SkeetIR-x, UTM-x, TigIR-6M, and UTC-Xii.
Mounted Unit #2, everything looked good, Clipon Mode engaged, popped off a round, unit shuts off. I’ve seen this with other thermals before and it was usually a not-fully-tightened battery compartment, so I go to tighten it, but it won’t go any tighter. Turn it back on, pop-off another round, unit turns off again. Swap batteries, check tightness. Check mount. Not too close scope, all looks good. Turns off again.
This was on a suppressed Geissele 16” DDC in 5.56, so nothing out of the ordinary.
Anyone else having this issue?
Using the NightCore I don't have this issue but using the slightly shorter modlight batteries it shuts off.
By now I would figure a guy like Horta was used to situations where hot little things get turned off by his shorter-than-average cylindrical offerings. I'm confused?
Got some pics and recorded a video that I'll post later comparing the RH25 and the Voodoo S. But for now, here's some goods!
Rh25 are the darker images, Voodoo are the light blue
Rh25 are the darker images, Voodoo are the light blue
Attachments
I bought two of these from Jay at Sureshot. yes, I’m running two thermals on a helmet—these coyotes aren’t going to shoot themselves. The units themselves are impressive. But Jay’s customer service was even more so. At one point, iRay was a bit later than expected in shipping Jay the mounting hardware. He offered to send me the parts off of his own personal gun and optic (wasn’t necessary but the gesture was much appreciated).
I’ll be a repeat customer for sure.
I’ll be a repeat customer for sure.
If I was running dual HMT, I’d figure out how to pan them apart 15-20 degrees so I got a 35-40 deg wide field of view.
I can’t imagine dual colimated thermals really helps all that much with depth perception given it’s very limited resolution. But the FOV advantage could be significant. It would mesh well too, I’d imagine.
I can’t imagine dual colimated thermals really helps all that much with depth perception given it’s very limited resolution. But the FOV advantage could be significant. It would mesh well too, I’d imagine.
Last edited:
Also, is there anyway to adjust the helmet mode for x/y position?
I just can’t seem to get this to mesh with my PVS-14. It’s close-ish. But odd at the same time. I tried a Wilcox Dual Bridge (clone) on a G24 and Rhino2 mount... so adjustability isn’t the issue. Now if I do the 1000-yard-stare, the PVS14 and RH25 images line up decently for objects about 10-20ft away... but things closer that or further than that don’t line up. And no matter how googly-eyed I go I can’t get images to line up at any long distance. Especially if I stare with my eyes converging at the proper distance, nothing ever lines up and it’s pretty far off. Unusably misaligned; like maybe 8ft offsets for objects 25yd away.
I think it’s because PVS14 eyepieces and this thing are so different (as opposed to an MH25+PVS14 eyepiece).
I’m sort of leaning towards just running a single AX14 Pro j-arm (or rolling up one of my bridged 14s) and just using the MH25 handheld as a scanner when not clipped on.
I just can’t seem to get this to mesh with my PVS-14. It’s close-ish. But odd at the same time. I tried a Wilcox Dual Bridge (clone) on a G24 and Rhino2 mount... so adjustability isn’t the issue. Now if I do the 1000-yard-stare, the PVS14 and RH25 images line up decently for objects about 10-20ft away... but things closer that or further than that don’t line up. And no matter how googly-eyed I go I can’t get images to line up at any long distance. Especially if I stare with my eyes converging at the proper distance, nothing ever lines up and it’s pretty far off. Unusably misaligned; like maybe 8ft offsets for objects 25yd away.
I think it’s because PVS14 eyepieces and this thing are so different (as opposed to an MH25+PVS14 eyepiece).
I’m sort of leaning towards just running a single AX14 Pro j-arm (or rolling up one of my bridged 14s) and just using the MH25 handheld as a scanner when not clipped on.
