Laminate flooring as a bench surface?

[Cproflow]

I've been piecing together my ideas for my 1st proper bench build, after reading countless threads & browsing pictures (Google images FTW). I pretty much have everything figured out as to how I want to go about the project...but I had still not really decided on the actual bench surface. There are lots of options, ranging from naked MDF up to true butcher block or stainless.

Then it dawned on me--as I rolled my desk chair back from the computer desk to grab another 'research aid' (beer)...what about laminate flooring? It was right under my feet. There seemed to be a lot of upside:
--Extremely durable and scratch resistant--(I've been rolling my desk chair across it for a few years (unprotected), and there is nary a scratch
--Aesthetically pleasing--many, many colors/options. I would favor something fairly light-colored. This is going in my office, so I actually DO want it to look nice, or at least not detract.
--Cost is not-prohibitive--big range here, but probably $25-50/box...maybe even score a super deal with an open box deal at HD or Lowe's. The point is, it isn't that expensive--and there are always sales. Past that, you don't need an expensive oak/birch AC sheet of 4x8' to make it look nice. Any 3/4" will do. You can even use the flooring to 'line' the shelves I want to build below the primary deck surface
--Ease of installation--I think you could just glue it to the plywood. I know it is supposed to 'float' on a floor, but this is 16 sq/ft, and is not a floor. The stuff is easy enough to drill through for press mounting as well
--Water resistant--I don't know if that is truly a pro...but hey, a spill is a spill
--Easy to clean--some flooring has creases, some are quite smooth. I think any cleanup would be a snap
--Fairly easy to replace, if needed/desired

Since I had this epiphany, I googled a bit and have seen that indeed some folks have done this and had success. However, you really don't hear about it as an option very often. Is there a reason for that? Am I missing something?

Anyone out there using this material? Any downsides? Tips? Dos/Don't s?
Post pics if you got 'em!

 

[sniperdude]

I would test/try a piece or really a joint section and dab whatever type of solvents you might use and see if there would be a difference in resistance from water. if its made to float and you glue it , that could cause it to buckle a bit but im not so sure being such a small area

my bench is a woodworkers bench which is like a butcher block/solid wood

if I was to make a bench specific for my rifles I would opt for formica, but that's just me

Ray

 

[oldnmkid]

I went with the 3/4" plywood you mentioned and it's slick as a baby's bottom. 4 coats of poly on the top and it looks great and has lasted through many years of spills. I doubt laminate would make it through many spills before it started to buckle. I'm fighting with Home Depot on this very thing right now. I bought 2 sheets of it and had them cut lengthwise and then doubled them for 2 benches

 

[spradley]

I went with the 3/4" plywood you mentioned and it's slick as a baby's bottom. 4 coats of poly on the top and it looks great and has lasted through many years of spills. I doubt laminate would make it through many spills before it started to buckle. I'm fighting with Home Depot on this very thing right now. I bought 2 sheets of it and had them cut lengthwise and then doubled them for 2 benches

I think you could go with Bamboo which is extremely hard but not impossible to scratch.. I'm sure you could coat it with something to further protect.

 

[bogeybrown]

We're currently using hardwood flooring (with multiple layers of polyurethane) as a bar top, and it works great. It stands up to hundreds of spills a week. I'd imagine that engineered flooring with one of those synthetic finishes would work super well for your project also.

 

[milo 2.0]

We're currently using hardwood flooring (with multiple layers of polyurethane) as a bar top, and it works great. It stands up to hundreds of spills a week. I'd imagine that engineered flooring with one of those synthetic finishes would work super well for your project also.

I don't see why it wouldn't work either. Bogey, are you glueing each piece down? Only drawback to that would be if a section did buckle, it'd be tough to replace. And do you rough up the surface prior to poly?

I think a guy would want to frame the edges on this also, white pine at least.

 

[bogeybrown]

I don't see why it wouldn't work either. Bogey, are you glueing each piece down? Only drawback to that would be if a section did buckle, it'd be tough to replace. And do you rough up the surface prior to poly?

I think a guy would want to frame the edges on this also, white pine at least.

The bar top is actual 3/4" nail down oak flooring that the flooring guy installed and sealed. If it ever buckles I'm pretty sure I'm screwed, but it is so heavily sealed that I don't foresee it happening. In your instance, I'd just stop in one of the flooring shops or HD/Lowes and tell them exactly what you're doing and that you're going to frame it (some floors need a gap around the walls to allow for expansion) and see which material they recommend. Regardless of the type of material, it's all tongue-in-groove, so if it buckles there's some work involved in fixing it.
On a bench, if it ever buckles, I'd just pull off the framing on one side, shave down the necessary amount for it to "fit" again, drill some TINY holes in the offending area to inject some appropriate adhesive and tap it back down, then re-frame it.
It's not a surface that is really going to get that wet, so I don't think you'd have problems with it.

The other option would be to get a sheet of tin, copper, whatever and use that as your work surface, it's going to get dinged up and dented, but pretty much indestructible.

 

[milo 2.0]

Thanks Bogey,
I'm not in need of a bench, I have 4, 3 poly'd, 1 formica. Just curious how, for self and others. I do need to refinish my 3x6' table, tried refinishing an old Rem 700 stock, ended up using zip strip, shit got all over and bubbled my finish, even though we had freezer paper down to protect it.

To any of you aspiring woodworkers, chemicals are really not your buddy when it comes to the black forend on a wood Remington stock! They melt.

 

[Cproflow]

Some great feedback on this guys...thanks.

Milo--I would plan on doing some type of trim. White pine is a good cheap choice. I may even be able to use this as an excuse to get a router, being a 'home improvement' project and all

Bogey--I agree the surface will seldom get wet, but the potential buckle is one of my concerns. You are correct that leaving a little expansion space is par for the course with laminate flooring. I guess the gamble is--will that space really come into play for such a small work area? After everything is snapped together, you essentially have a board...and after I mount 2 presses through it, it may not move anywhere. Add to that a shelf unit that will rest on top. I could possibly just lay the laminate on the bench surface (basically mimicking a floor installation) and leave it at that? I don't want to overthink it too much...but one could even do a ghetto 'underlayment' using some of that tacky tool box liner material. That would go pretty far in keeping things from shifting. Probably overkill.

 

[milo 2.0]

Cpr,
With the cabinets resting on top, the "give" room could be at the back of bench, covered. I think this would be a nice top. What I don't get is how come one needs room to move in a laminate. I remember buying a 400.00 moisture meter for a hickory hardwood floor, had to monitor content, get it stable, then install. Then keep on monitoring it, but what the fuck you gonna do if it absorbs moisture, or goes dry, it's nailed down???

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Our Club 'rejuvenated' a half-dozen shooting benches with laminate flooring tops. It's not as hard as some believe. Shooting rests with pointed feet left dimples in the surface, and raising the feet made the rests slide around like air hockey pucks. The laminate will get distressed from tool marks. Better to leave it off.

I would suggest 3/4" or 1" plywood for the bench top with Formica plastic sheet laminate bonded to the upper surface after construction. White makes small bit/parts easier to locate. The continuous surface eliminates crud accumulations between the wood laminate planks, and Formica is probably harder overall. Plywood panels with pre-bonded Formica are used by professional builders for sink tops, etc., but I would not recommend them unless you are absolutely certain about how good your cutting skills are. Build the surface so it has a wood rim/edging that stands proud about 1/32"-1/16" higher than the top surface, to help stop things from rolling off the counter top. Round off the outer top edge of the wood edging material to a 1/4" radius. My edging starts out as clear 1x2. Bob all vertical edging corners to at least a 1/2" radius prior to rounding off the top edges, otherwise bumps can hurt.

You can substitute linoleum or even stick-on vinyl floor tiles for the Formica, but keep the installations smooth and with minimal gaps, seal the tiles with an acrylic wax layer or three, make sure the plywood is well sealed beforehand, and expect the Formica to outlive these last two. The softer materials can help keep things from bouncing as much when dropped.

When installing laminates with contact cement, cut the Formica with at least 1/2" overhang on all edges, use the paper divider method to align the laminate before permitting contact, use a Formica roller to compress the bond, rolling from center to edges, use a router and edging router bit to cut away the excess and knock off the edges, otherwise they can cut you without warning.

...And still finish the edge with wooden edging as above...

Greg

 

[George Az]

Laminate flooring such as Pergo ususally comes in boxes 10" wide by 4 foot long, if my memory serves me (for the size). We did a whole main floor in a house a few years ago and it has held up wwell to pets. Impact, such as dropping an iron off the ironing board can cause a ding. You can fill such a ding with epoxy. I don't think moisture would be an issue. If puppy piss and beer doesn't hurt it, why would anything else. If you glued it to the work bench top - whatever you are using, it might work You can pick up boxes pretty cheap. It looks great.

 

[gimpy]

I built my reloading bench using 1/2" MDF with refinished hardwood glued and nailed down. It's as solid as anything I could make.

 

[lightman]

I'm thinking that it would make a great top. I would glue it down and put some trim around the edge. I have plans to cover the top of my bench next year, and I was planning on formica. Now I'm starting to think about other things. Lightman

 

[Cproflow]

I think I'm going to give it a go. If I botch it, an alternate solution isn't too painful or expensive. I talked to the floor guy today at Lowes, and he had no reservations on gluing it down, given the size. he thought it would be a good surface as well.

Greg--thanks for the great info on getting the trim going. I got my father in law bringing his router/table out for the Xmas visit. Your instructions will be helpful.

Will be a few weeks before I get the beast built, but when I do...I'll post up some pics.

Now to just figure out what I want my shelves to look like...

 

[elfster1234]

I got an 8' pc of laminate countertop that has a backsplash for 30bucks on sale.... White granite, very durable and can hold up to break cleaner, and easy to spot and clean spilled powder. Purchased another $6 pc of 3/4 2'x8' osb and pl400 subfloor adhesive / screwed it to the bottom side of the countertop for a 1-1/2 thick bench.

I've been piecing together my ideas for my 1st proper bench build, after reading countless threads & browsing pictures (Google images FTW). I pretty much have everything figured out as to how I want to go about the project...but I had still not really decided on the actual bench surface. There are lots of options, ranging from naked MDF up to true butcher block or stainless.

Then it dawned on me--as I rolled my desk chair back from the computer desk to grab another 'research aid' (beer)...what about laminate flooring? It was right under my feet. There seemed to be a lot of upside:
--Extremely durable and scratch resistant--(I've been rolling my desk chair across it for a few years (unprotected), and there is nary a scratch
--Aesthetically pleasing--many, many colors/options. I would favor something fairly light-colored. This is going in my office, so I actually DO want it to look nice, or at least not detract.
--Cost is not-prohibitive--big range here, but probably $25-50/box...maybe even score a super deal with an open box deal at HD or Lowe's. The point is, it isn't that expensive--and there are always sales. Past that, you don't need an expensive oak/birch AC sheet of 4x8' to make it look nice. Any 3/4" will do. You can even use the flooring to 'line' the shelves I want to build below the primary deck surface
--Ease of installation--I think you could just glue it to the plywood. I know it is supposed to 'float' on a floor, but this is 16 sq/ft, and is not a floor. The stuff is easy enough to drill through for press mounting as well
--Water resistant--I don't know if that is truly a pro...but hey, a spill is a spill
--Easy to clean--some flooring has creases, some are quite smooth. I think any cleanup would be a snap
--Fairly easy to replace, if needed/desired

Since I had this epiphany, I googled a bit and have seen that indeed some folks have done this and had success. However, you really don't hear about it as an option very often. Is there a reason for that? Am I missing something?

Anyone out there using this material? Any downsides? Tips? Dos/Don't s?
Post pics if you got 'em!

 

[spradley]

I think I'm going to give it a go. If I botch it, an alternate solution isn't too painful or expensive. I talked to the floor guy today at Lowes, and he had no reservations on gluing it down, given the size. he thought it would be a good surface as well.

Greg--thanks for the great info on getting the trim going. I got my father in law bringing his router/table out for the Xmas visit. Your instructions will be helpful.

Will be a few weeks before I get the beast built, but when I do...I'll post up some pics.

Now to just figure out what I want my shelves to look like...

Read up on Bamboo.. it's compression strength is stronger than steel and it's thicker than laminate.
Completely natural, nothing to delaminate etc..

Gary

 

[Cproflow]

Gary--Just when I thought I was resolved, you threw a wrench in it! I'm taking a look now. It is a little more spendy, but fortunately there isn't much required. It looks like the assembly is tongue and groove like the laminate. Can you glue it? Nail it?

I do like the look.

There is a Lumber Liquidators in the town next to me, and they carry it. I'll check it out.

 

[spradley]

Gary--Just when I thought I was resolved, you threw a wrench in it! I'm taking a look now. It is a little more spendy, but fortunately there isn't much required. It looks like the assembly is tongue and groove like the laminate. Can you glue it? Nail it?

I do like the look.

There is a Lumber Liquidators in the town next to me, and they carry it. I'll check it out.

Yes absolutely you can glue or nail.. I just had it put down on a slab so mine is floating. Love it and it comes in many colors/shades..

I have some left over and thinking of using it as a top myself but my project is much further down the road than yours.

 

[Silverbullet2]

I thought about this for a while, and just bit the bullet, and bought some Stainless that I had them use their Brake to bend a 90 degree edge on. A bitch to drill through, but I only have my press mounted. It will be around long after I'm gone. J

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Cproflow;

Greg--thanks for the great info on getting the trim going. I got my father in law bringing his router/table out for the Xmas visit. Your instructions will be helpful.

Back around 1998, I was folding my I/T consulting business and looking to start out completely in a new line of work; mainly allowing my new local environment to dictate the area of that endeavor (I.e., the business tanked after10 years of a good run, and I was O/O work and clueless...).

A guy picked me up and put me to work reconfiguring a private residence, which had once been a roadhouse saloon for decades, into a new winery. Getting toward the end of the interior work, he wanted a huge "U" shaped tasting bar designed and built. I opted for Formica laminate (in a maroon shade, of course). The bar was 20' wide and 16' on each side coming out from the wall. What techniques appear above are the gleanings from the techniques which evolved in that process.

Greg

 

[rdinak]

Butcher Block looks good too

 

[milo 2.0]

Butcher Block looks good too

Totally agree, but the tools needed, and expertise kinda sky rocket building one.

 

[hessian]

I recommend a cork surface.

 

[MikeEzell]

Why not use concrete?

 

[Graham]

Laminate flooring as a bench surface?

I vote for Unobtanium, but the heavy kind. Heavy like concrete.?

 

[DroidSniper]

IMO though it doesn't look great MDF has been an awesome surface for me. Couple coats of Poly and it holds up well. I think when I re-do everything down there I might get some thin gauge steel and glue it to the MDF

 

[Jhnmdahl]

I vote for Unobtanium, but the heavy kind. Heavy like concrete.

Best make sure it's depleted unobtanium, unless you're sure you are done having kids. I've always liked maple for bench tops, but it's easy to find and cheap around Minnesota.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

If you are planning on using a circular saw to cut pre-bonded Plywood/Formica panels, either (1) get a suitable blade (high tooth count), or (2) reverse your existing blade and take your time (this also works for vinyl siding).

Greg

 

[redhooker]

I think one of the best bench top materials is an old solid slab wood door. If you have a construction salvage yard nearby they can be had for sub-$50. I have 2 doors on my 14' bench and the whole top finished in poly cost me $90. Tough as a butcher block and way cheaper.

 

[Deadshot2]

Choices of bench top materials for me would be:

Bowling alley lane
Butcher Block
Solid Core wood door
Formica on 1-1/4" flooring plywood
Melamine coated cabinet grade particle board bonded to another sheet of non melamine coated cabinet grade


Not even on my list, laminate flooring. Too many cracks to catch solvents or if large enough, powder granules.

 

[memilanuk]

I've always wanted a butcher-block type surface... I've considered 'making' my next one from picked-n-prepped 2x SPF lumber (I have the requisite tools); it would probably be almost cheaper in $$$ and definitely in time to just buy one although that may limit options such as thickness, etc.

The laminate top that Greg mentioned has some definite benefits, especially the white surface for finding small parts; I've seen those done two ways - either flush trim and then add edging, or add edging to the substrate first, apply the laminate over the top all the way out to the edge, then flush trim and finish with a 45 degree chamfer. Personally I think the first option looks a little nicer, but the latter may give a 'smoother' appearance.

What I have is a little quicker and cheaper than others. I built the top out three layers of 3/4" ply glued and screwed together, then a layer of 1/4" tempered hardboard on top (available in most big box stores or other places that sell sheet goods). I took some 1x oak boards and ripped them to final width matching the thickness of the top plus. I attached them around the outside with cabinet screws. The 'trick' here is that the top skin of 1/4" tempered hardboard is basically consumable, and only held in place by gravity, double-sided carpet tape and the edging. It holds up pretty well under general use, but if you spill something that just totally eats it up or makes it bubble, you can just peel it up and replace it with a new top 'skin'.

YMMV,

Monte

 

[elfster1234]

Big fan of kitchen countertop... Got an 8ft pc from menards for 30 bucks. You can spill break cleaner on it and it will not hurt the surface. Perfect depth. Can take a real beating. Can lag to wall studs thru the backsplash. Get a light color so its easy to see powder. Glued and screwed an additional 6dollar pc of 3/4x2x8 pc of osb plywood to the under side without needing to cut the osb for a 1-1/2" thick bench top. Filled in the backsplash wih some ripped up 1/2" plwood before i power lagged the backsplash to the studs.

 

[mdmp5]

I use particle board. I've used it to build my last 3 benches and it is great. Very strong, smooth, and easy to cut. Mounted plenty of shit on that countertop

 

[downlow]

Countertop Laminate.

Make your tabletop to your dimensions...mdf is fine for it (I used 2-3/4" pieces for 1-1/2" thick). Then glue on your laminate. I can't imagine anything slicker and easier to clean.

elfster's got it going on...

 

[elfster1234]

What was nice about the countertop i purchased is it already had a bullnose and backsplash for only friggen 30 bucks! There are not that many surfaces described above that you can spill a big puddle of break cleaner on without destroying it. Hell, when i clean my dies with break cleaner i just let it fall right on my laminate surface and then clean it up.... If it can pass this test, then i will use it.

Most places like menards or home depo should have 8foot long pcs of stock kitchen countertop in stock for 30dollars or less....and do what i did... PL400 and screw an additional pc of partical baord or osb to make it 1-1/2 thick to the bottom side.... And fill in the backsplash with some ripped up 1/2 plywood so you can power lag the bitch right into your studs thru the backsplash (just pre drill your holes)

Get a light color so if and when you do spill power it is easy to see and pick up.... No cracks for the powder to fall into... Trust me, you will spill some powder... Everyone does it in their reloading lifetime.

Countertop Laminate.

Make your tabletop to your dimensions...mdf is fine for it (I used 2-3/4" pieces for 1-1/2" thick). Then glue on your laminate. I can't imagine anything slicker and easier to clean.

elfster's got it going on...

 

[elfster1234]

For those looking a reloading bench that is cheap, classy, and ultra durable finished top that can hold up to break cleaner for a little over $100 dollars which including the metal bench frame (that also has adjustable feet for a level bench surface for an un-level floor)

here you go! I can't make it any easier than this... I want to say my bench top cost me $35 dollars total with the 8' countertop on sale for $29bucks, and the 3/4"x2'x8' plywood for $6bucks... I already had the PL400 subfloor adhesive & 1-1/4" drywall screws to glue & screw the two together. I also had some 1/2" plywood that I ripped up for the backsplash filler as shown in the pics below and PL400 glued & screwed on from the back side with 3/4" screws (just need to obviously make sure the screw isn't too long to go thru the laminate surface).... This is also the metal bench frame that I purchased from menards that I screwed thru the metal frame & into the bottom side of the 1-1/2" thick finished bench top with some self tap 1" polebarn screws (polebarn screws will go right thru the metal frame & into the bench top from the bottom side & also got from menards). The entire bench was power lagged into the wall studs through the backsplash & also through the metal bench bottom / rear cross bar into the wall studs once the bench was level (using the adjustable bench feet).. Once you get the bench top screwed to the metal bench frame (push against the wall first before you do this), then obviously put a level on your new bench top left / right & front / back for a level bench surface (using the bench adjustable feet) before you power lag the entire bench into the wall studs!!

here is a link to the countertop that I got on sale for $29 at menards: http://www.menards.com/main/housewa...ral-limestone-countertop/p-1318715-c-3629.htm

link to metal bench frame (got on sale for $59 dollars): Adjustable Metal Workbench Frame at Menards

pre-drill through the backsplash & into the studs (make sure they go into the studs!).. don't forget the bit for these power lag screws. I want to say I used 3/8"x5" for the backsplash & 3/8"x3" for the metal bench frame bottom / rear cross bar INTO the studs!!

cut up some 1/4" laminate flooring for my press spacers & used 1/2" carriage bolts for the press with a double nut:

screwed the metal bench frame to the bench top with self tap polebarn screws:

if your bench top can hold up to break cleaner without destroying the surface, then you're GTG in my book

Countertop Laminate.

Make your tabletop to your dimensions...mdf is fine for it (I used 2-3/4" pieces for 1-1/2" thick). Then glue on your laminate. I can't imagine anything slicker and easier to clean.

elfster's got it going on...

 

[downlow]

Excellent tutorial elfster. The reason I didn't go the pre-built is, I incorporated mine into a desk/cabinet/reloading bench...and I wanted it deeper than a std countertop.

I have better pics than this, but this'll give you an idea.


I'll see if I can dig up another pic. Very nice AR!

 

[downlow]

Anyone out there using this material? Any downsides? Tips? Dos/Don't s?
Post pics if you got 'em!

No downside to using countertop laminate. If you buy it by the sheet, you can make your benchtop as big or small as you want it.

 

[Deadshot2]

I've been seeing some benches that appear to be WAAAAY too clean! Doesn't anyone do any serious reloading anymore.

 

[elfster1234]

Ohhhh wow! That is an awesome set up my friend! Very nice!

No downside to using countertop laminate. If you buy it by the sheet, you can make your benchtop as big or small as you want it.

 

[downlow]

Brilliant minds think alike.

 

[DroidSniper]

No downside to using countertop laminate. If you buy it by the sheet, you can make your benchtop as big or small as you want it.

Those sheets are more expensive than the counter tops cheapest lowes has is 41 bucks/sheet

 

[downlow]

They are considerably cheaper at Menards...at least when I bought the last one.

 

[DroidSniper]

They are considerably cheaper at Menards...at least when I bought the last one.

I'll check them out. I prefer Menards anyways but the closest one is 30 min away.

 

[Cproflow]

Droid--be thankful you have a Menards as an option. We don't in CO. My father in law is always telling me about his latest outrageously perfect purchase he made at Menards (he lives in Illinois). It pisses me off! They usually seem to come in ~30-40% cheaper on stuff.

 

[DroidSniper]

Droid--be thankful you have a Menards as an option. We don't in CO. My father in law is always telling me about his latest outrageously perfect purchase he made at Menards (he lives in Illinois). It pisses me off! They usually seem to come in ~30-40% cheaper on stuff.

Menards are generally half again the size of HD. The lumber selection is much much better and generally the prices are better. The also have little kiosks where if you swipe a credit card it pull up all the receipts for purchases made with that car so you can print it to do a return. Pretty awesome.

Found this
:http://www.menards.com/main/housewa...atural-limestone-30-x-48/p-1354082-c-3629.htm

not too shabby on price. color sucks but than I don't car much about color.

 

[James n TN]

I went to a discount flooring store and purchased two 8'x34"x1.5" butcher block tops and made my reloading table with

sent from RAZR Maxx HD using Tapatalk Pro

 

[elfster1234]

menards countertops prob go on sale about once a month... just need to keep an eye out on the paper for the length of countertop you need... mine is 8'long and I wan't to say I paid about $30 for mine on sale.... also, I'd bet money they will have a 11% off everything sale soon in the next month.

the key for me when I comes to a bench top is passing the break cleaner test... if you have any type of poly on wood = break cleaner will eat that right up... break cleaner doesn't even mar the kitchen countertop & is massively scratch resistant & super easy to clean.

Menards are generally half again the size of HD. The lumber selection is much much better and generally the prices are better. The also have little kiosks where if you swipe a credit card it pull up all the receipts for purchases made with that car so you can print it to do a return. Pretty awesome.

Found this
:Laminate Sheet Natural Limestone 30" x 48" at Menards

not too shabby on price. color sucks but than I don't car much about color.