Parkerizing on the original M40 has a greenish tint to it. That's why they say 'green'.
M40 Build Guide
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Parkerizing on the original M40 has a greenish tint to it. That's why they say 'green'.
If originality is of no concern, you can grind the safety thumb lever flat. 5 minutes on a belt sander, or grinder. Modern safety with vintage look.
I must say that I am impressed. I know of only one company that does Redfields, the turn-around time is very long, and their interest in doing it seems low....
Did you do 2nd gen Redfields as well? These are satin black. Not sure if they are anodized satin black, or just roughly finish...
Planning on coating mine with Norrell's Moly Resin in their Grayish-Black Flat (a good match for the early Colt SP1's) color. According to them, you can cure it a little longer and at a little higher temperature while occasionally opening the oven door and it will end up with that greenish tint. I have used it several times on "retro" AR's and my Vietnam era Savage 77E clone. Easy to apply and a great looking finish. Just found out about the special curing instructions for getting that green tint. Can't wait to try it.
Yeah, just finished my own 2nd gen, satin black version. Used a scotchbrite on the metal to get that satin look then another dunk in the lye. I actually converted the reticle in this one, and harvested the tombstone from a 4x12, and checked ranging to my gen 1.
Looks a little shinier here than it actually is, right out of the sealing bath.
This is how the black ano looks if I just beadblast. Now, I don't have an original gen 2, so what do you think looks closer? I was thinking about bead blasting THEN doing the scotch brite to give it that scratched surface look I notice in pictures of originals.
Looks a little shinier here than it actually is, right out of the sealing bath.
This is how the black ano looks if I just beadblast. Now, I don't have an original gen 2, so what do you think looks closer? I was thinking about bead blasting THEN doing the scotch brite to give it that scratched surface look I notice in pictures of originals.
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Deleted member 10043
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Looking good. I gave my first gen Redfield a distressed look by painting it and then knocking the paint off. It was a black gloss finish to start with. Man, they put a durable finish on those old scopes. I used a gold laquer stick to fill the stamping back in. I'm back in town so I will get those part scopes out to you soon.
Anodizing is impossible to get off unless you use lye, and then it "melts" right off without harming the metal. The only caveat is you need to take the scope apart. 
If you tape up the lenses, giving it a bead blast may dull it up a bit to give it a gen 2 look. I will give it try see what my results are like.
If you tape up the lenses, giving it a bead blast may dull it up a bit to give it a gen 2 look. I will give it try see what my results are like.
D
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Anodizing is impossible to get off unless you use lye, and then it "melts" right off without harming the metal. The only caveat is you need to take the scope apart.
If you tape up the lenses, giving it a bead blast may dull it up a bit to give it a gen 2 look. I will give it try see what my results are like.
What is the different between 1st gen and 2nd gen. I just call mine 1st gen only because it is from the mid 60s.
1st gen is "redfield 3x9 1" tube" marked scopes with removable objective bell, flat turret caps, done in OD Green
gen 2 are Redfield 3x9 marked tubes, I piece unit, italics "Redfield" on eyepiece done in satin black. The Gen 2s are exactly the same scope used for AR TELs.
Few variations in between.
gen 2 are Redfield 3x9 marked tubes, I piece unit, italics "Redfield" on eyepiece done in satin black. The Gen 2s are exactly the same scope used for AR TELs.
Few variations in between.
Great work sir, I have ab original Green Redfield, although apparently over time someone had lost the caps....Hey wartooth what's the chance in possibly getting you to ano some turret caps for me? Thanks regardlesss sir
I have a few of those. The eyepiece is a bit narrower, but they are pretty much the same scope.
Top 1 is a gen 1, middle is a gen 1 scope with a narrow eyepiece no zoom bar
Bottom is a gen 2, hence why I did it satin black. Middle one is actually a dark OD Green. I use the same exact finishing process and dye on the Widefield, but notice how its a little greener and shinier. It's differences in the actual aluminum alloys they used in making the scopes. The turret caps always seem to be real low grade material as they smut up, while the tubes, eyepiece and turret housing are very high quality metal.
Top 1 is a gen 1, middle is a gen 1 scope with a narrow eyepiece no zoom bar
Bottom is a gen 2, hence why I did it satin black. Middle one is actually a dark OD Green. I use the same exact finishing process and dye on the Widefield, but notice how its a little greener and shinier. It's differences in the actual aluminum alloys they used in making the scopes. The turret caps always seem to be real low grade material as they smut up, while the tubes, eyepiece and turret housing are very high quality metal.
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Update on my build.
Had a forum member cut back my bolt shroud. Came out great.
Scored a vintage Redfield mount (squared corners and Redfield stamp) and vintage 4 screw slot head rings for about $100 combined on EBay.
Got trigger guard, plate, and the rest on EBay for about $35
Got correct aluminum buttplate on EBay for $19.
Ordered a bedding block from Midway, and waiting on my Silverhill stock. May email Rob and see if he can toss a pair of swivel slings in that order.
Mounted the base and rings on the receiver last night, lined and lapped the rings, test mounted my green/gold Gen1.
Gonna put it all together and shoot it. I'm building off a Dicks Sporting 700 ADL Varmint.
One thing: I cannot find any info on that Varmint barrel and what the twist rate is on those Dicks specials. It's about an 1" too long, but I want to shoot it first.
If I find out its a 1:14 twist rate, I'll probably rebarrel it, send it out for blueprinting and clip slotting. If I get sub MOA out if it as is, I may just leave it alone.
Post some pics tonight.
Had a forum member cut back my bolt shroud. Came out great.
Scored a vintage Redfield mount (squared corners and Redfield stamp) and vintage 4 screw slot head rings for about $100 combined on EBay.
Got trigger guard, plate, and the rest on EBay for about $35
Got correct aluminum buttplate on EBay for $19.
Ordered a bedding block from Midway, and waiting on my Silverhill stock. May email Rob and see if he can toss a pair of swivel slings in that order.
Mounted the base and rings on the receiver last night, lined and lapped the rings, test mounted my green/gold Gen1.
Gonna put it all together and shoot it. I'm building off a Dicks Sporting 700 ADL Varmint.
One thing: I cannot find any info on that Varmint barrel and what the twist rate is on those Dicks specials. It's about an 1" too long, but I want to shoot it first.
If I find out its a 1:14 twist rate, I'll probably rebarrel it, send it out for blueprinting and clip slotting. If I get sub MOA out if it as is, I may just leave it alone.
Post some pics tonight.
Glad to see its coming together!
The Dicks specials (Varmint) are SPS Varmint barrels, so 1:12 in .308. The M40 was 1:10.
Just stick to 175gr pills and you're good.
The Dicks specials (Varmint) are SPS Varmint barrels, so 1:12 in .308. The M40 was 1:10.
Just stick to 175gr pills and you're good.
Got over 1000 175SMK and about 500 168s.. Anyone have a pet load using IMR4895, RL15? Can I use a M118LR clone load?
Thats what I use, good old 4895 and SMK 175gr. Same as the M118LR.
Federal Match primers, Lapua and Lake City brass. Start low at 40gr, and work your way to 42gr MAX, see what your rifle likes. I use 41.3, very consistent load up to 600yards, which is the length of the range I go to. Same recipe for the 168 grainers.
Federal Match primers, Lapua and Lake City brass. Start low at 40gr, and work your way to 42gr MAX, see what your rifle likes. I use 41.3, very consistent load up to 600yards, which is the length of the range I go to. Same recipe for the 168 grainers.
Went on ebay looking for scopes for a M40 and damn. I think I would be better off getting the commemorative scope Redfield has for sale. What are your opionions on them?
Keep looking. The Accu-Range models are pricey (250-500$). A lot of people bids on them. But keep an eye on the standard reticle models. Do you really need an Accu-Range? Or course it depends on how correct you want your M40 to be. Even if you are ready to spend 2000$ on a correct 1st gen green Redfield, your M40 WONT BE THE REAL THING ANYWAY.
I scored a duplex reticle Redfield for 130$. Its in perfect shape. It just need the green anodizing. Nobody knows its not an Accu-Range. Why should I care.
The new commemorative scopes dont even look the same... The color is wrong, the shape is wrong... In my honest opinion, I would use a real vintage Redfield in gloss black instead of a new 'green' scope that looks bad.
Celtic Rifles and member Tokiwartooth found a way to anodize the Redfields. A lot harder to spot its fake.. The commemorative screams fake. I mean, if individuals can anodize them correctly, why in hell a corporate business with R&D cant even make it look correct...?
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Because of lack of demand. There is just not a big enough market for them. I said the same thing about the AR TEL. Easy to repro, given I had a few parts. I get alot of emails "Can you anodize my scope?" I tell them how much, and never hear back. And mind you, I'm doing it $100 less than the other guy as I'm not making a business out of this, just covering cost. I've spend over $1000 on equipment, chemicals, experimenting.
I literally takes me about 5 hours from start to finish, and I have to monitor temperature in the electrolyte tank. I can get through the whole process, seal and then notice a flaw... Back to the beginning. And then grease/glue, clean lenses, purge and test. It's quite an affair.
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D
Deleted member 10043
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Looking forward to some pics on the Dick's special M40! I think you are on to something here!
As for old Redfield scopes. It is worth it because after all you are looking for vintage style shooting. I have the Leupold/Redfield one and it is just a Rifleman model for the M40 SSA. I also have the Badger retro mounts. I wished I had been patient like toki because he got actual redfield mounts at a fantastic price. BTW, the M40 SSA is a 1:12 barrel.
As for old Redfield scopes. It is worth it because after all you are looking for vintage style shooting. I have the Leupold/Redfield one and it is just a Rifleman model for the M40 SSA. I also have the Badger retro mounts. I wished I had been patient like toki because he got actual redfield mounts at a fantastic price. BTW, the M40 SSA is a 1:12 barrel.
Some pics...
Gotta few options on the Accurange...
Was thinking about milling the 722 mount back to mimic the 40x.
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Bedding block..
Out of pocket so far
1. Action/barrel/bolt/trigger $400
2. Scope $169 + labor to ano
3. Base/rings $110
4. Butt plate $25
5. Barrel shroud work $25
6. Stock (if it ever comes...) $187
7. Swivels $30
8. Trigger guard assembly $65
Already have a bunch of slings from my m14s and Garand collection
May teach myself how to parkerize and do the base and rings.
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One other thing.... I made a "bolt tool" out of a .30 Carbine casing. Drilled out the primer pocket, cut it back. It you stick it on the front of the firing pin, and insert it into the bolt body, you have a disassembly tool.
Remington changed the design to a long shroud because of an Australian law/accident in which the weapon fired when the exposed part of the bolt was hit from 'behind'. I think the change occured in mid 70's... not sure..
I wouldnt cut a J-Lock equipped Rem 700 though...
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Glad to see this forum 'up' again. Personally, I took MescaBug's advice and picked-up an original Gen.II Accu-Range and stayed away from the new 'offerings.' I do like what I'm seeing with these scope finishes. It takes a considerable 'passion,' to pursue that level of work. If anyone is interested in a 'as-new' Silver Hill M40 stock, contact me. My project is on-hold for awhile.
Q. Is any action/stock bedding going to be allowed in M40's being used in the Vintage Sniper competition at Quantico?
Q. Is any action/stock bedding going to be allowed in M40's being used in the Vintage Sniper competition at Quantico?
Accurate Innovations makes wood stock with full length alum bedding block. They are pricey, but might worth take a look:
Custom Replacement Gunstocks, Rifle Stocks - Quality, Accuracy, Aluminum Chassis - Accurate Innovations
How's the quality of the silver hill stock. Do you have to work on the stock a lot to get the action to fit? Is the rear or the stock cut with a curve to fit the aluminum 16601 butt plate? For those who actually used one, please post or pm your experience. Thx
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MescaBug is spot on. If your looking for a 'drop-in' stock (as opposed to a 'pre-inlet) with a bedding block/system, the Accurate Innovations, is it. They won't sell their bedding block/system, independent of their stock (I asked.) Their stock is in use amongst some M40 enthusiasts and Accurate Innovations has an excellent reputation. My objection to their product, is purely esthetic- the wrist/grip profile, along the radius, is too long and not contemporary to stocks of the M40 period.
Silver Hill makes a nice product and here are some photos of one, so you can see for yourselves. These are 'pre-inlet' stocks, which are typically about 95% finished.
Another option is NUMRICH ARM'S Remington 700SA_BDL stock, which will require some forearm shaping and the usual ~5% fitting.
Silver Hill makes a nice product and here are some photos of one, so you can see for yourselves. These are 'pre-inlet' stocks, which are typically about 95% finished.
Another option is NUMRICH ARM'S Remington 700SA_BDL stock, which will require some forearm shaping and the usual ~5% fitting.
It's called a "Tactical Post" and it rotates the "Power Knob." (pretty sure, anyway.)
Somebody-somewhere currently makes the longer tactical posts, so they can be had. I haven't found that person yet, but I'm still looking. Should someone stumble upon that person, please let us all know.
MescaBug is spot on. If your looking for a 'drop-in' stock (as opposed to a 'pre-inlet) with a bedding block/system, the Accurate Innovations, is it. They won't sell their bedding block/system, independent of their stock (I asked.) Their stock is in use amongst some M40 enthusiasts and Accurate Innovations has an excellent reputation. My objection to their product, is purely esthetic- the wrist/grip profile, along the radius, is too long and not contemporary to stocks of the M40 period.
Silver Hill makes a nice product and here are some photos of one, so you can see for yourselves. These are 'pre-inlet' stocks, which are typically about 95% finished.
Another option is NUMRICH ARM'S Remington 700SA_BDL stock, which will require some forearm shaping and the usual ~5% fitting.
Looks like a nice stock. Have you installed an action and 16601 buttl plate on it yet. My 16601 butt plate is 5.025 inch long and width is 1.586 in the middle of the buttplate. Can you measure the area of the butstock? I like to have an idea of how much work has to be done? Thx in advance
This particular stock is SPF and no, I haven't fit an action and/or buttplate to it. I'll pull it out tomorrow and take-off some measurements, perhaps take 'face-on' and 'side' profile photos of a 16601 sitting on the stock. That said, most of the 16001's out there are 'take-offs,' which mean that they have already been 'resized' at the factory to fit the profile of the individual stock that they were originally put on. I doubt that you'd find any two (2) exactly the same, so any set of buttplate measurements are 'nominal' at best.
Unless you're purchasing a 'drop-in,' it's gonna take some patience, some decent stocking tools and a few skill-sets to finish a 'pre-inlet' offering, from anybody. It helps to have a work area and a decent work bench too. Or, like me, a very skilled personal friend who is one hell of a stocker.
I'll get those representative measurements and photos out at my first opportunity.
D
Deleted member 10043
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Good eyes. It's an original box for a Remington Commemorative M40 SSA rifle, numbered and everything. The stock, however is a Silver Hill (not off of a SSA M40) and just SPF. The two (2) being in one (1) photo is merely coincidental. While we're on the subject; I am going to sell the box.
There are a couple of different knurled knob types.
If the power ring only has a small screw that locks it into the erector zoom sleeve. you have to drill and tap it for the large knurled post or replace the set screw with a set screw/ small post version from a later scope. The large knurled knob will only have 4 or 5 threads to screw into the zoom ring and is placed to the right of the set screw. I've done a couple of them. The Gen 2s small post also acts as the set screw that inserts into the groove in the erector zoom sleeve. The gen1 has a set screw/lock screw and the large knurled knob. Some just have a set screw and no knob at all. You can mix and match.
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Like Bolt_Trash said, the Silver Hill stock is pretty much dead on as far as the overall look and feel. It might need a little tweaking in the receiver and buttplate area and barrel channel. But it is pretty much a drop-in thing. Anyone with basic woodcrafting tools and skills can make it work. Of course, the biggest challenge is the finish. How to get that same dull/flat finish. There is a few techniques to make wood look distressed. You can even go as far as painting it dark green, like some snipers did, strip the paint off, sand it, and oil it.
I've seen people go as far as soaking it in water, leaving it outside, drop and smash it so it looks 'old'. Of course if you want that brand new look, you just oil it and be done with it.
The best example, is a M40 original stock that sold on eBay a few months ago. Apparently, it is genuine. Dont know if somebody from the Hide got it. I was keeping an eye (both eyes actually) on the auction, hopefully to scope the deal of the century. It started off very low, so I was confident. But as soon as people found out, it went up in 100$ increments to finally sell close to 1500$.
Very, very nice. The only 'un-verified' detail, is the anchor for the front swivel. History says the front swivel was a screw-in type swivels like the Rem 513. But picture shows a metal anchor and what seems to be a Wichita swivel.
I've seen people go as far as soaking it in water, leaving it outside, drop and smash it so it looks 'old'. Of course if you want that brand new look, you just oil it and be done with it.
The best example, is a M40 original stock that sold on eBay a few months ago. Apparently, it is genuine. Dont know if somebody from the Hide got it. I was keeping an eye (both eyes actually) on the auction, hopefully to scope the deal of the century. It started off very low, so I was confident. But as soon as people found out, it went up in 100$ increments to finally sell close to 1500$.
Very, very nice. The only 'un-verified' detail, is the anchor for the front swivel. History says the front swivel was a screw-in type swivels like the Rem 513. But picture shows a metal anchor and what seems to be a Wichita swivel.
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After reading my previous post, I thought I'd share some information, and answers I provided to questions I got from a few members here. This thread is very well alive, and adding more information/pictures is what its all about.
As an alternative to the elusive 40X base, the Redfield/Remington 722 base (cant remember the Redfield part number) looks very similar. It has square corners, and fits newer receivers. The rear section has a 'step' that needs to be cut so the base is the correct length, and a new hole drilled. The Redfield logo and patent ID is stamped on the right side, but that can be ground off.
It is a little thinner than the beefy 40X base, but only an expert would tell. They can be bought on eBay for 10-15$.
Some people asked about the 'green' finish used on the receiver/barrel/base. I have a 700SA base, that was given to me by a buddy who was a 2112 @ Quantico. He's got his feet deep in the USMC as an armorer so I believe pretty much everything he tells me. He gave/sold me most of the stuff I used on my M40, M40A1 and M24 builds.
Apparently, this base came off a retired M40, stashed away and never used. Is it authentic or not? Well, obviously I cant be sure. But we can easily see the 'greenish' tint to the parkerizing, especially the area under the rings when it wasnt affected by the elements/light. It is a very hard finish, finger 'grease' doesnt stain it, its not easily scratched and doesnt reflect light, which was the purpose of the parkerizing.
Now, the buttplate screws. I dont know the exact size/thread, but my guess is that they are standard Remington wood screws. Picture shows the countersink.
As an alternative to the elusive 40X base, the Redfield/Remington 722 base (cant remember the Redfield part number) looks very similar. It has square corners, and fits newer receivers. The rear section has a 'step' that needs to be cut so the base is the correct length, and a new hole drilled. The Redfield logo and patent ID is stamped on the right side, but that can be ground off.
It is a little thinner than the beefy 40X base, but only an expert would tell. They can be bought on eBay for 10-15$.
Some people asked about the 'green' finish used on the receiver/barrel/base. I have a 700SA base, that was given to me by a buddy who was a 2112 @ Quantico. He's got his feet deep in the USMC as an armorer so I believe pretty much everything he tells me. He gave/sold me most of the stuff I used on my M40, M40A1 and M24 builds.
Apparently, this base came off a retired M40, stashed away and never used. Is it authentic or not? Well, obviously I cant be sure. But we can easily see the 'greenish' tint to the parkerizing, especially the area under the rings when it wasnt affected by the elements/light. It is a very hard finish, finger 'grease' doesnt stain it, its not easily scratched and doesnt reflect light, which was the purpose of the parkerizing.
Now, the buttplate screws. I dont know the exact size/thread, but my guess is that they are standard Remington wood screws. Picture shows the countersink.
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After reading my previous post, I thought I'd share some information, and answers I provided to questions I got from a few members here. This thread is very well alive, and adding more information/pictures is what its all about.
As an alternative to the elusive 40X base, the Redfield/Remington 722 base (cant remember the Redfield part number) looks very similar. It has square corners, and fits newer receivers. The rear section has a 'step' that needs to be cut so the base is the correct length, and a new hole drilled. The Redfield logo and patent ID is stamped on the right side, but that can be ground off.
It is a little thinner than the beefy 40X base, but only an expert would tell. They can be bought on eBay for 10-15$.
Some people asked about the 'green' finish used on the receiver/barrel/base. I have a 700SA base, that was given to me by a buddy who was a 2112 @ Quantico. He's got his feet deep in the USMC as an armorer so I believe pretty much everything he tells me. He gave/sold me most of the stuff I used on my M40, M40A1 and M24 builds.
Apparently, this base came off a retired M40, stashed away and never used. Is it authentic or not? Well, obviously I cant be sure. But we can easily see the 'greenish' tint to the parkerizing, especially the area under the rings when it wasnt affected by the elements/light. It is a very hard finish, finger 'grease' doesnt stain it, its not easily scratched and doesnt reflect light, which was the purpose of the parkerizing.
Now, the buttplate screws. I dont know the exact size/thread, but my guess is that they are standard Remington wood screws. Picture shows the countersink.
Just bought a 722 base... I don't think you'll get them for $15 or $20. Mine bid up to $60. My plans are exactly as you lay them out. I also got correct looking rings. I'm going to Navy Jelly off all the bluing and park both the rings and base.
Still waiting on my stock.... Silver Hill has told me "We're making 12 right now, its shpping Friday" for the last 3 weeks. Not sure what's going on there.... I told him only ordered 1, not 12...
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Just bought a 722 base... I don't think you'll get them for $15 or $20. Mine bid up to $60. Still waiting on my stock.... Silver Hill has told me "We're making 12 right now, its shpping Friday" for the last 3 weeks. Not sure what's going on there.... I told him only ordered 1, not 12...
lol! If you do get 12 of 'em, let us know
As for the 722 base, they might have gone up in price. I have a few of these and remember paying between 10-25$. That was 1 year ago.
