M40a1 build guide

#1,351
Thanks SD for the clarification on the 99 C letter actions being fiscal 1992 purchase for building into A1 rifles(per Peter Senich's book).
I have that book as well and was remembering that(therefore post Desert Storm) but wanted to be certain. I guess I coulda dug the book out and read it again rather than be lazy and take up time here.
Thanks!
 
#1,352
scatsob said:
I apologize for being dense, and I swear I have read through the thread, but a 7 digit would be technically correct for an A1 build?
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As I understand, yes but in very few numbers... We dont have a serial number range so...

MescaBug said:
Need a quick answer.. No time to read the whole 26 pages of the thread.

Outside the first batch of 6-digit and some C,E,G receivers added later, anybody knows if 7-digits were used?

7-digits as in a 1975 receiver serialed 68XXXXX?
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M40_A1 said:
98% sure- no.
(I've learned never to say "never" when it comes to the M40A1)
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rlm8541 said:
Mesca....100% yes on the "seven" digit SN for the VN era M700.....There were very few and were late production and were refered to as the "Product Improvement Series". Senich talks about them on page 162 of his book "one Round War".
I actually know a gentlemen who has one of these rifles....It was originally released from WTB Quantico as a Trophy Rifle. It has the Satin black Redfield and the rounded corner later gen. Redfield base. The last four are etched on the scope.
I have pics burried somewhere. I think another member actaully has some posted on here somewhere.

I have seen where they were actually used on some of the early A3's so Im assuming that somewhere down the line it had been used on an A1. Like I said, I would assume. But I personally haven't seen any A1's with them....which really doesn't amount to much...lol
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#1,353
Bought an M40A1 spec build last week. Supposed to ship today. Seller has packed with action removed from stock.

Its probably mentioned here but there are a lot of pages to search through, if readily available please, what is the torque spec for the action screws and what is the hex dimension/allen size?

The rifle is coming with a build book. Do armorers record a torque used and will each rifle have its own setting? Are these rifles like 03's, can you tune accuracy by playing with the torque on the action screws?

During assembly anything to concern myself with to ensure the integrity of the bedding?

Thank you for your patience with a M40A1 newb.
 
#1,354
pmclaine said:
Bought an M40A1 spec build last week. Supposed to ship today. Seller has packed with action removed from stock.

Its probably mentioned here but there are a lot of pages to search through, if readily available please, what is the torque spec for the action screws and what is the hex dimension/allen size?

The rifle is coming with a build book. Do armorers record a torque used and will each rifle have its own setting? Are these rifles like 03's, can you tune accuracy by playing with the torque on the action screws?

During assembly anything to concern myself with to ensure the integrity of the bedding?

Thank you for your patience with a M40A1 newb.
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McMillan recommends 40-45 inch lbs. I wouldnt go pass 45 with a fiberglass stock.

HS Precision stocks with aluminum bedding block is 65 inch lbs. As per the Remington M24 owner's manual.
 
#1,356
MescaBug said:
McMillan recommends 40-45 inch lbs. I wouldnt go pass 45 with a fiberglass stock.

HS Precision stocks with aluminum bedding block is 65 inch lbs. As per the Remington M24 owner's manual.
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Thank you. Standard McMillan HTG Ill assume 40-45. inch lbs.

scatsob said:
If it comes with the build papers it will have the torque spec written down. My A3 is 60 in-lbs.
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Thank you. After I make my assumption above I will check the build book and go with what the armorer originally did.
 
#1,357
pmclaine said:
Bought an M40A1 spec build last week....what is the torque spec for the action screws and what is the hex dimension/allen size?
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Usually 60-65 in.lbs.
3/16" hex.


pmclaine said:
The rifle is coming with a build book. Do armorers record a torque used and will each rifle have its own setting?
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Yes. Should be stated in the tube data book.

Congrats on your purchase!
 
#1,359
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#1,361
I saw the thread specifically inquiring about the tourque value to use with McMillan stocks (A5 not HTG) and the post about starting low and stopping at best group makes sense.

I had written info concerning tightening 03 screws to that same 65 inch pounds and that is a lot of pressure. Other reputable builders recommend 35-40 on the old wood rifles. The wood 1903 rifles also have to deal with 10 pounds of up pressure at the front of the stock.

Im assuming M40A1's float along the entire length of the barrel.

Ill look at the tube data book to see where the builder was at and probably start some percent under that.

Thank you for your time taken to answer.
 
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#1,364
I have another M40A1 question I've been meaning to ask...

When prone behind my M40A1 with the scope all the way back in the rings, I have a heck of a time getting a full sight picture when trying to lie straight behind the rifle. I have to angle my body to get my head forward far enough to obtain the full field of view in the Unertl. AND, my stock is short by 3/8" from the standard 13 1/2" LOP (long story). I would imagine a full 13 1/2" LOP stock would be even worse.

Does anyone else experience this? The scope really doesn't have much travel to play with. I never thought I had a stubby neck. LOL.
 
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#1,365
Hey M40A1.....Proper Cheekweld/Stockweld, whichever you prefer to call it, has been an issue with the A1 since its inception....Since the A1 has no adjustable cheek comb and everyone's head shape (mine being size "Fat"), neck, and cheek bone height is different, getting the proper eye relief and cheek/stock weld (the relationship of the cheek against the stock in order to obtain proper alinment of the eye directly behind the scope) alignment can be more difficult for some than others....If you look at pictures of many/most Marine Snipers in most of the publications you will find that it was common for us to slice thin pieces of Iso mat (the green foam sleeping mat the we were issued... approx. 1"X 6"/8" in length) and lay them across the top of the stock and wrap it in Riggors tape (duck tape). We would stack and tape these as needed until we had gotten the proper height to take the crick out of our necks and allow us to obtain the proper stockweld.
Regardless of where the Unertl rests in the rings it is designed to have an eye relief of approx. 3" to 3 1/2".
It was a crude way of making things work but....it did work...lol
So,...getting your cheek up off the stock a little "should" help you get the proper stock weld and eye relief.
See if that may help.
 
#1,366
rlm8541 said:
Hey M40A1.....Proper Cheekweld/Stockweld, whichever you prefer to call it,...
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LOL! More like "chinweld" on the M40A1 :)

Thanks. I know what you mean about building up a pad. I've thought about doing that, but had two reservations.
1) It would force the bottom of the face more to the left, preventing a good, vertical head placement, and
2) I was wondering if there was a way to build it that wouldn't prevent bolt removal for cleaning.

The first Redfield system could be extended more rearward in the rings, allowing for versatile eye relief adjustment and bolt manipulation without losing stockweld. Not so with the Unertl/M40A1. Anyway, it's more that forward placement to get the full field of view that I find difficult to achieve without some neck strain on these. So was wondering if others have/had the same problem.
 
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#1,367
Was speaking from experience....guess i shuld have been a little more descriptive...You dont build the piece by making it wider...you go up with it...Trust me I will relieve nearly 80% of neck tension ...Ive done this with dozens of students and with this it will then be able to get the right amount of eye relief.....Trust me when I tell you that you are not the first person to have this problem...lolololol
Second.....you start the build of the cheek piece by pulling the bolt to the rear then marking and building from there or you trim it....Its not an attractive fix but it works and unless you can figure out some other way of making it work that hasnt been tried by 1000's of snipers you dont have to many other choices......If you do find one, you will have suprised Marine Snipers by the 1000's from over 3/12 decades....Good luck! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. I will leave this alone from here. Just trying to help.
M40_A1 said:
LOL! More like "chinweld" on the M40A1 :)

Thanks. I know what you mean about building up a pad. I've though about doing that, but had two reservations.
1) It would force the bottom of the face more to the left, preventing a good, vertical head placement, and
2) I was wondering if there was a way to build it that wouldn't prevent bolt removal for cleaning.

The first Redfield system could be extended more rearward in the rings, allowing for versatile eye relief adjustment and bolt manipulation without losing stockweld. Not so with the Unertl/M40A1. Anyway, it's more that forward placement to get the full field of view that I find difficult to achieve without some neck strain on these. So was wondering if others have/had the same problem.
Click to expand...
 
#1,368
rlm8541 said:
Just trying to help.
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As usual, rlm, you're a great help. In fact, I finally get it (I think). I always thought the pad was laid on the left side of the stock and left sticking up past the top to "raise" the comb. But now I understand that narrow strips are laid along the top of the comb to raise it, hence the 1" wide strips. I hope that's right. Makes sense now. Thank you! Now to give it a try. I don't want to sacrifice my sleeping mat, so I'll hit the surplus store to see what they have. Also, I think I understand how having a larger surface area against which to rest your cheek could help relieve muscle tension from having to hold the head forward. And Roger on keeping the strips back far enough for bolt clearance.
 
#1,369
Yep, you got it...Just lay the thin strips across the top. Tape each individual separately and tight to the stock, that way you dont end up with the problem of the rest folding over once you put pressure against it. Have found in the past that most only need two sometimes three layers max. in order to get the right height.....
If your not in a hurry....I will be back in the states in about three weeks and i can send you plenty of Iso mat....I have two extra's mat's for just this purpose....This is not just a problem with the A1...There are many stocks out there that people use that end up having this issue when setting them up. So I keep plenty on hand.

M40_A1 said:
As usual, rlm, you're a great help. In fact, I finally get it (I think). I always thought the pad was laid on the left side of the stock and left sticking up past the top to "raise" the comb. But now I understand that narrow strips are laid along the top of the comb to raise it, hence the 1" wide strips. I hope that's right. Makes sense now. Thank you! Now to give it a try. I don't want to sacrifice my sleeping mat, so I'll hit the surplus store to see what they have. Also, I think I understand how having a larger surface area against which to rest your cheek could help relieve muscle tension from having to hold the head forward. And Roger on keeping the strips back far enough for bolt clearance.
Click to expand...
 
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#1,370
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#1,375
latinaincovina said:
60 inch lbs. OMG ... I so wish i had kept that rifle!
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I'd be sad also but Im sure you had good reasons to let it go. I told you if I ever get in a situation where I have to sell you get first right of refusal. USPS screwed up and sent it to the wrong town - WTF!. Should be arriving today, trying to make arrangements for signing on delivery/FFL. Mail to you to follow after delivery.

I dont doubt the 60 inch pound spec but agree with others seems tight. My other rifles with slotted screws its impossible to get that tourqe as the tool wont stay in the screw head. The allens will make that tourqe achievable but I almost think the spec should be "get it as tight as you can but dont be a dummy and strip the screws or crush your stock".

Have you ever came across the 2112 books I asked about above? Never saw them before but than again Ive never been as interested in M40 stuff as I have the last few weeks. Should be good reference for maintaining the rifle. No idea what their value should be just jumped as they were available. I dont see myself owning an A3/A5, Barrett or DMR maybe others would be interested in those.

Pics of rifle to follow soon. I imagine they should get people filling your PM mailbox for same.
 
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#1,377
latinaincovina said:
I dont know if you are getting PMs so I'm going to post it here. If you dont intend to keep that rifle dont open the box it was shipped in. Just send it right back to me and i will refund your $$$ plus shipping.
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Yep, All PMs are coming and I have notification there is one from you in my PM area right now. I do not intend on getting rid of a PWS built rifle and I thank you for making the chance to buy available to the board.

My latest tracking shows its out for delivery in my town. Its an odd manner of shipping and Ill have to get it to the right location to complete the paperwork. The paperwork I sent you was supposed to be signed and you would have shipped to that party.

Ill be posting pics soon as Im sure the board will be interested and it will help their research on what to look for when doing their own clones or when buying similar.
 
#1,379
New to me M40A1

Seller packed exceedingly well. Substantial box and absolutely no shake before opening. Not even the USPS sending it to the wrong town was going to be an issue.



 
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#1,380
Stock







Barreled action.

Odd the magazine is not welded to the receiver. Its a G code action. In this configuration am I correct to think I have an easy option to go to M40A3 if I want?



 
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#1,381
How does PWS darken the shroud?



Rifle





Trigger is nice and crisp





Couldn't get a good clear picture of the crown. Its the straight wall style, no 45 chamfer down to the bottom of the dish.

The flat bluing on these things is dynamite. It should wear well and take on a nice salty, worn in look as the surface smoothes out.
 
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#1,382
No the A1 is clip slotted and the A3s are Lug slotted. So no is the answer on the A1 to A3 change out. There is are 2 scallop cuts on the clip slotted actions and no scallop cut on the A3 lug slot. It is completely different.

pmclaine said:
Stock







Barreled action.

Odd the magazine is not welded to the receiver. Its a G code action. In this configuration am I correct to think I have an easy option to go to M40A3 if I want?



Click to expand...
 
#1,383
TWOMANATTACK said:
No the A1 is clip slotted and the A3s are Lug slotted. So no is the answer on the A1 to A3 change out. There is are 2 scallop cuts on the clip slotted actions and no scallop cut on the A3 lug slot. It is completely different.
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The barrel bracket would be incorrect as well. Although some A1 actions were re-used on A3's and I've heard rumor that there is at least 1-6 digit A5.
 
#1,384
I have no desire for an A3/A5 (Ive said stupid shit like that before than when I find myself pulling out the wallet I always wonder "How did I get here"). My thoughts were only generated by the "G" SN and the mag box on the A1 not being welded to the receiver - a conversion possibility up to the point my mount cuts would not be correct. To me, the A1, despite its old tech/lack of modern ergonomics, is predatory function in its purest form.

Im buying some 2112 books off a party that has fielded all three versions of the rifle. His experience is that there is little uniformity in the rifles - different style safeties, bolt releases in different locations, magazine box welds cut loose/not done at all to improve accuracy, builders stamps that vary in font size, location done and varying concern with whether the stamps were "neat" or not.

I havent anywhere near the knowledge of others but probably the more perfect the build the less like a Fleet rifle it is....but that recent PWS A3 build thread certainly shows an about absolutely perfectly done rifle. That "German Gothic" number stenciling in the barrel channel of the stock is sweet.
 
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#1,387
I had heard that slotting done in-house at Quantico was lug slotting (without the half-moon divot cuts), even on the A1s (C and E actions). Does anyone know for certain if this is true/untrue?
 
#1,389
i am going to do another run of M40A1 USMC sniper rifle scope bases. Same deal as the last batch. $415 shipped. If you want them with black oxide add $25 as I have to ship them out to be done. EMAIL me ... I am not able to check PMs much, however I do check email almost every day.
ajqi38.jpg
 
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#1,396
#1,397
MescaBug said:
The McMillans started building rifles and stock in 73. Mostly army contracts and for benchrest shooters. I dont know when the M40A1 HTG stock became available to the general public.

Out of curiosity, what do you want to know exactly? ;)

McMillan Story
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I would like the to know the odds of being able to find a smear or similar pattern stock for a short action Remington without paying the premium for an actual M40A1 stock.
 
#1,399
pre64marksman said:
Holy HE$% no one bid?????
The person who hacked Ebay probably did so in order to get that stock!
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It was a civilian stock for a single-shot 40x, needed inletting, had a hairline crack in the forestock, needed the recoil pad replaced. The only thing it had going for it was the semi-smear pattern. Still, I'm surprised it didn't sell at that price for the pattern alone.
 
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