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Extractor, or ejector marks? I see some ejector marks, hopefully you’re not seeing bent rims or other extractor marks.Is it normal to have extractor marks while fire forming ? I necked down some 6.5 brass and fired 10 in my new savage 110 18” barrel.
I had marks on all 10 pieces. Starter at 29.2 and went to 31 in .2 increments. The last 3 loads had very light primer cratering.
29.2 - 2662
.4 - 2689
.6 - 2691
.8 - 2713
30 - 2722
.2 - 2766
.4 - 2769
.6 - 2767
.8 - 2782
31 - 2787
You can kind of see the mark on the 3rd piece.
View attachment 8032393
I didn’t think ejector because it’s round, and the marks on my brass are oblong. Not a circle. I need to look at the bolt.Extractor, or ejector marks? I see some ejector marks, hopefully you’re not seeing bent rims or other extractor marks.
It looks like you might have a rough edge on the ejector hole in your bolt face, or on the ejector itself.
Excessive headspace can also cause ejector marks, (ie you bumped the shoulders back too far) even at low pressure.
I don’t put any faith at all in cratered primers being an indicator of pressure. Way too many other details can affect fired primer appearance.
I didn’t think ejector because it’s round, and the marks on my brass are oblong. Not a circle. I need to look at the bolt.
I’m going to load some up at 30.4. Seems to be a good flat spot. And I am more than happy with the velocity out of an 18” barrel. If I knew it was going to be pushing 2800, I would have got 500 of the 108’s instead of the 105 bthp.
I just can’t believe I’d have pressure signs at that low of a charge, I guess it’s ejector smear. I fired 1 case and then set my die to bump them back .003. I sized the cases fired here after that
10.4 when I shoot the brass that’s already former, I’ll color the bottom with a sharpie to see if it does it again.The bolt rotates.
Don’t make load data decisions based on fireforming rounds. Used formed brass for that.
Where the brass is shiny, the edge of the case is a little rough. Could that just be a sharp edge on the extractorExtractor, or ejector marks? I see some ejector marks, hopefully you’re not seeing bent rims or other extractor marks.
It looks like you might have a rough edge on the ejector hole in your bolt face, or on the ejector itself.
Excessive headspace can also cause ejector marks, (ie you bumped the shoulders back too far) even at low pressure.
I don’t put any faith at all in cratered primers being an indicator of pressure. Way too many other details can affect fired primer appearance.
Where the brass is shiny, the edge of the case is a little rough. Could that just be a sharp edge on the extractor
Mine is a bolt gun and yea my dies are set up correctly, off the fired cases. I bought a box of hornady and shot a round, no marks.The extractor is on the opposite side of the bolt from the ejector. Your extractor isn't contacting the headstamp area to make those marks, that's the ejector. It's possible you're seeing shiny marks from the extractor cutout on the bolt, but it doesn't look like it; that looks like classic (although very mild) ejector hole swipes. You could have ejector hole burrs like I said earlier, or maybe your rifle is overgassed and needs to be tuned, or a number of other things.
Hopefully you're measuring shoulder bump and comparing it to the rounds you've fired now? Remove the primers first of course, without sizing.
My experience;
Rifle+1 (Proof and CLE) seems to work with non-adjustable gas blocks unsuppressed. Suppressed will still function but be a little over gassed.
Rifle and midlength need adjustable gas if suppressed. Might get away without it unsuppressed.
Agree with you on this; system length and port size are obviously interrelated. In my case the barrel IS a Proof rifle +1 length which has a published port size on their website and I WILL be suppressing, which is the only reason why I’m considering an adjustable gas block.Man, as much as you usually have good input, that advice is really leaving out a huge key part of the equation.
Gas port diameter matters so much more than just gas system length in determining whether gas adjustment is needed. (Think about it - the gas block adjustment does the same thing as changing gas port diameter.) You really can't make a general statement that one gas system length needs tuning and another doesn't.
With most brands I think it's wise to install an adjustable gas block regardless of gas system length. If you know of specific barrels, like the Proof and CLE you mentioned above, that work well without it, that's different, as long as those companies don't change port diameters on those products.
Nice looking build, but before you sight it in flip that NF mount around the other way. It's on backwards.I'm normally very methodical and common sensical about adding a firearm to the arsenal. It's not uncommon for me to plan a year or more before making a buy. But weird times call for weird actions. All the bizarre politicking of the last 2 years caused me to go off on a tangent and throw down a bundle of cash on the parts for this build. I'm glad I did. I have not hunted since I was a kid if you ignore a little bit of varmint sniping now and again, but I'm ready to get back into it and thought a 6 ARC AR would fill in the space for small game and varmint hunting. Plus, if the SHTF, this would work great as a hybrid battle gun that could kill at a reasonable distance. I just got it put together tonight and plan to take it out tomorrow to sight in.
View attachment 8033352
Wilson Combat lightweight billet receiver and BCG
JP bolt
Proof 18" CF
Smoke Composites stock, grip & forearm
Vortex 4.5-22 x 50 Razor LHT mil
NF 20moa Ultralight mount
Javelin Pro Hunt Tac bipod
(waiting impatiently for the Nomad Ti to arrive...)
I have not yet put it on the scale but for sure it's the lightest AR that I own.
Nice looking build, but before you sight it in flip that NF mount around the other way. It's on backwards.
What are you running for buffer and spring?
Wow! So whats the weight in this configuration?You win! That was intentional and an attempt at humor. Giselle Super 42.
ETA: Done joking, did a scope level and bore-sighted. Time to go play.
View attachment 8033698
Wow! So whats the weight in this configuration?
If I’m building with an Aero adjustable gas block, what would you guys recommend for buffer and spring? It will be suppressed.
My 18” savage with 31.2 of lever is running just under 2800 with a 107 smk.Bolt gun folks running 16.5” barrels, what type of velocity are you seeing with factory 108s? I’m estimating 2525-2540fps. Looking for some real world values.
Wow... That seems pretty quick. 2800 would be about right for a 6BR with a 26" barrel.My 18” savage with 31.2 of lever is running just under 2800 with a 107 smk.
Factory Hornady 105 is much slower
Just went back and double checked. 31.2 gr of lever had me at 2792.Wow... That seems pretty quick. 2800 would be about right for a 6BR with a 26" barrel.
You are getting close to 6CM velocity:
6 Creedmoor barrel length versus muzzle velocity (31 to 17 inches)
6 Creedmoor barrel length and velocity 6 Creedmoor is rapidly rising in popularity among long range shooters. Combining an efficient case design with the wide range of excellent 6mm bullets, the 6…rifleshooter.com
Keep doing your thing... but I would expect 2550-2600ish with a 16" barrel.
Skyscrapin' - I think your initial estimate is a good one.
That's impressive. Are you seeing pressure signs? How is the brass holding up? I'm using 28 grains of lever in my gas gun and it doesn't want any more. Thanks for sharing.Just went back and double checked. 31.2 gr of lever had me at 2792.
I’m running 31gr and I believe that’s 2780
No pressure signs at all. The primers look good and the boat is not hard to lift. I was a little worried getting this 18 inch savage over the 22 inch at sportsman’s warehouse but I’m pretty impressed with the velocity for this length of barrel.That's impressive. Are you seeing pressure signs? How is the brass holding up? I'm using 28 grains of lever in my gas gun and it doesn't want any more. Thanks for sharing.
This is from a proof 16” gas gun but with 108gr ELD-M’s and 29.2gr of LeveRevolution I’m getting 2512 fps. The closest thing I have in a bolt gun is a 6mmGT in 16” for my Sig Cross and that’s pushing a 108gr ELD-M to 2800 fps. So I keep the 6ARC for gas gun only.Bolt gun folks running 16.5” barrels, what type of velocity are you seeing with factory 108s? I’m estimating 2525-2540fps. Looking for some real world values.
That's impressive. Are you seeing pressure signs? How is the brass holding up? I'm using 28 grains of lever in my gas gun and it doesn't want any more. Thanks for sharing.
Steve - Have you rechecked head space on that barrel?? I just discovered mine set back the bottom 3 lugs in the extension. All of them actually, but the bottom 3 the most. Once that happens even with a new bolt it's misaligned & a lot of extra stress is on the 3 o clock bolt lug.I get about 1000rnds.
I have a +2 gas tube on a 26" barrel
The gas port is drilled after the installation of the barrel extension so I find that unlikely to impossible to achieve without a custom-fitting an extension like I imagine a blended/timed brake is fit.I don't know if a new extension will time up to a barrel, never tried it??
Curious which brand of bolt’s you’ve been using?I get about 1000rnds.
I have a +2 gas tube on a 26" barrel
I don't know if a new extension will time up to a barrel, never tried it??
Where did you get shims?I've had to replace a barrel extension, once. it was a last-resort, desperation gamble to salvage a (for me) high-dollar non-returnable barrel with a totally out-of-spec BE that wasn't straight. The bore-axis of the BE was machined askew of the barrel bore-axis, crooked, how dafuq. Had to use shims between the new BE and the barrel to get the headspace to come in right. Of course, the original gas port was totally out of time. I had to plug the original gas port: partially threaded for a SS set-screw, only partially threaded so that the set-screw couldn't go fully in, and used red high-temp loctite. The abomination work is covered by the gas block anyways, And then had to drill a new gas port. 0.936" GB shoulder, so plenty of meat there. The operation was a success, i was able to salvage the barrel, otherwise it was a throw-away.
and it shoots just fine.
it was for an AR-10. luckily some left-over shims from AR-15 handguard kits were close enough, not perfect, but bubba-enough, I had to stack a couple of those paper-thin SS thousandth's shims. Otherwise I would have to cut them from shim stock, unless McMaster-Carr has some circular ring shims that can be trimmed close enough, I didn't look. On a positive note, I was able to sneak up on the headspace to come in perfect to just fit on the GO-gauge. This desperation work will never see the light of day. Those would've been my alternatives.Where did you get shims?
Steve - Have you rechecked head space on that barrel?? I just discovered mine set back the bottom 3 lugs in the extension. All of them actually, but the bottom 3 the most. Once that happens even with a new bolt it's misaligned & a lot of extra stress is on the 3 o clock bolt lug.
I pulled a Rainier ultra match at about 700 rounds to switch it out for a Craddock + new bolt.
Put about 60 rnds of factory 108 through it. Already had 100 pc of 1 x Lapua sized and primed from the Rainier barrel. Checked head space of brass & WTF. Big head space difference. Sized brass from the rainier barrel is +.004 - .005 longer than fired factory loads.
I checked both barrels with the same go guage during assembly & they were within .001 & now they're .006 - .007 different.
What I haven't done before if is recheck headspace while in use. I will be now with 6 ARC.
The Rainier after 700 rounds is now gauging no go + 2 pc's of scotch tape.
Never caught it during loading because I just set up dial indicator on a stand alone comparator to a fired case & size accordingly. Guess that's a mistake in my process. I'll be ordering a headspace guage that clips on the caliper so I get an actual measurement. Then I will know if the chamber starts growing.
The bolt I was running was a Maxim and it still looks great. The lugs in the extension are what's giving up. I can live with replacing the bolt every 1000 rounds, but trashing a barrel every 700 rounds isn't going to work for me. I don't know if a new extension will time up to a barrel, never tried it??
The bottom 3 lugs in the extension are the weakest so I think they set back first putting all the stress on 4 lugs, 3 on the left, & just 1 on the right which is undercut by the extractor.
View attachment 8083988View attachment 8083989
Correct ramp is stock, all I did was debur the corners. Like you said the relief cuts are pretty big.I admit that I don't have a ton of experience with ARs, but the feed ramp area on your Rainier is more relieved than any AR barrel I've owned. Since it's gold, like the rest of the BE, I'm assuming that's the stock ramp and not a home or smith mod? The center lug looks like it's taken some wear but the others look pretty clean. I just pulled out a new Shaw 6 ARC barrel and the lugs are not so highly relieved.
Steve - Have you rechecked head space on that barrel?? I just discovered mine set back the bottom 3 lugs in the extension. All of them actually, but the bottom 3 the most. Once that happens even with a new bolt it's misaligned & a lot of extra stress is on the 3 o clock bolt lug.
I pulled a Rainier ultra match at about 700 rounds to switch it out for a Craddock + new bolt.
Put about 60 rnds of factory 108 through it. Already had 100 pc of 1 x Lapua sized and primed from the Rainier barrel. Checked head space of brass & WTF. Big head space difference. Sized brass from the rainier barrel is +.004 - .005 longer than fired factory loads.
I checked both barrels with the same go guage during assembly & they were within .001 & now they're .006 - .007 different.
What I haven't done before if is recheck headspace while in use. I will be now with 6 ARC.
The Rainier after 700 rounds is now gauging no go + 2 pc's of scotch tape.
Never caught it during loading because I just set up dial indicator on a stand alone comparator to a fired case & size accordingly. Guess that's a mistake in my process. I'll be ordering a headspace guage that clips on the caliper so I get an actual measurement. Then I will know if the chamber starts growing.
The bolt I was running was a Maxim and it still looks great. The lugs in the extension are what's giving up. I can live with replacing the bolt every 1000 rounds, but trashing a barrel every 700 rounds isn't going to work for me. I don't know if a new extension will time up to a barrel, never tried it??
The bottom 3 lugs in the extension are the weakest so I think they set back first putting all the stress on 4 lugs, 3 on the left, & just 1 on the right which is undercut by the extractor.
View attachment 8083988View attachment 8083989
I admit that I don't have a ton of experience with ARs, but the feed ramp area on your Rainier is more relieved than any AR barrel I've owned. Since it's gold, like the rest of the BE, I'm assuming that's the stock ramp and not a home or smith mod? The center lug looks like it's taken some wear but the others look pretty clean. I just pulled out a new Shaw 6 ARC barrel and the lugs are not so highly relieved.
Steve - Have you rechecked head space on that barrel?? I just discovered mine set back the bottom 3 lugs in the extension. All of them actually, but the bottom 3 the most. Once that happens even with a new bolt it's misaligned & a lot of extra stress is on the 3 o clock bolt lug.
I pulled a Rainier ultra match at about 700 rounds to switch it out for a Craddock + new bolt.
Put about 60 rnds of factory 108 through it. Already had 100 pc of 1 x Lapua sized and primed from the Rainier barrel. Checked head space of brass & WTF. Big head space difference. Sized brass from the rainier barrel is +.004 - .005 longer than fired factory loads.
I checked both barrels with the same go guage during assembly & they were within .001 & now they're .006 - .007 different.
What I haven't done before if is recheck headspace while in use. I will be now with 6 ARC.
The Rainier after 700 rounds is now gauging no go + 2 pc's of scotch tape.
Never caught it during loading because I just set up dial indicator on a stand alone comparator to a fired case & size accordingly. Guess that's a mistake in my process. I'll be ordering a headspace guage that clips on the caliper so I get an actual measurement. Then I will know if the chamber starts growing.
The bolt I was running was a Maxim and it still looks great. The lugs in the extension are what's giving up. I can live with replacing the bolt every 1000 rounds, but trashing a barrel every 700 rounds isn't going to work for me. I don't know if a new extension will time up to a barrel, never tried it??
The bottom 3 lugs in the extension are the weakest so I think they set back first putting all the stress on 4 lugs, 3 on the left, & just 1 on the right which is undercut by the extractor.
It wasn't just the bottom 3 lugs but you can visibly see metal pushed back on those. I rechecked headspace with a new bolt to isolate how much of this is extension vs bolt. Used a go guage followed by no go & it still closed with 2 x scotch tape on no go. Put both gauges in head space comparator. From the go gauge it's now +.013 loose just in the extension.Huge feed ramps aside, usually setting back a few lugs on either the bolt or barrel extension (rather than all lugs evenly) means the bolt is mostly making contact on just those lugs. The most likely cause of that is the receiver face being crooked, unless the upper has a tight thermo-fit bore although it's still possible even then. Was this upper receiver face trued prior to assembly?
If the upper was trued, then it's more difficult to sort out, but has to be a dimensional issue with the bolt carrier, barrel extension, or bolt itself. If lug contact was even all around, you shouldn't see 3 lugs set back like that. Something seems screwy there.
I think that's an important detail with any Grendel-based cases, especially for those of us who might care to push the pressures up a little. In my experience, when everything is trued and bolt lug contact is even, the Grendel bolts can last a long time even with hot loads. But with uneven lug contact, all that pressure gets put on just a few lugs, and that's partly why we see broken bolts. IME, with good lug contact the standard AR15 bolt and extension design is completely adequate, but most people don't even consider this even though it's a common topic in bolt action circles.
Now I'm thinking that extension might be soft.