How much for a boxMile High has Hornady ELD-M 140s in stock, I was just in there.
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How much for a boxMile High has Hornady ELD-M 140s in stock, I was just in there.
The two aren't mutually exclusive...User name: "Sniper8" > knows nothing about bolt guns or long range shooting.
Can't buy skill FYI, your money will be better spent on a class/training.
How much for a box
$24.95, but it shows "out of stock" on their website. Ammo moves fast these days, even at inflated prices.No idea, I’m stacked deep so I didn’t even check. But there were cases sitting in the showroom three hours ago.
That’s what I saw as well$24.95, but it shows "out of stock" on their website. Ammo moves fast these days, even at inflated prices.
It had already been said, but there are better options for mounting your scope. Stick with Seekins, ARC, Spuhr, etc.Would a LaRue SPR1.5 LT104 QD mount fit the scope onto the AI I bought? I know my NF is 30mm, but I’m not sure the height of the larue mount is enough for AI AT. This is the mount I currently use on an AR15 I have the that competition NF scope mounted to currently.
That's fine. APA is also another option. I use APA because of the carbon lock the Hellfire gave me.Also, would this be a good muzzle brake for the 6.5 creedmoor AT?
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cause he doesnt have a clue what he's doingIt had already been said, but there are better options for mounting your scope. Stick with Seekins, ARC, Spuhr, etc.
That's fine. APA is also another option. I use APA because of the carbon lock the Hellfire gave me.
How much research did you spend before buying everything? Did you shoot any other guns beforehand?
And why did you choose that particular NF scope? MOA vs MRAD?
Just trying to understand the thought process.
cause he doesnt have a clue what he's doing
f class scope on an AI makes a lot of sense
also, OP, if youre gonna buy a Hellfire at least buy it direct from Area 419
let me know if you need some 6.5 Creed Moore roundswhat part of being new to bolt action rifles and shooting long range in general do you not understand? The not having a clue part is why I’m here. If you don’t want to provide help, simply don’t waste your time posting replies.
A lot of experienced shooters here are giving you advice. We are just trying to understand why you would make certain choices. Your selection for a first rifle is GTG.what part of being new to bolt action rifles and shooting long range in general do you not understand? The not having a clue part is why I’m here. If you don’t want to provide help, simply don’t waste your time posting replies.
let me know if you need some 6.5 Creed Moore rounds
might wanna try here. https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us
if not...your local radio shack might have some
Maybe it's just me, but I'd figure out the budget first and work backwards before buying an AI. If you have a money tree, then sure... go for the best right out of the gate. Otherwise I'd make sure to factor in:
1. Reloading equipment and consumables (at least a grand right now with prices being what they are. Probably more.)
2. Optics (A couple grand here)
3. Mags, bipod, scope caps etc. (another $500 or so)
4. Kestrel, spotting scope/bino's, a chronograph etc. (another grand, maybe two)
5. A rifle case. If someone's new to bolt guns they probably don't have a spare lying around that's big enough (another few hundred)
7. A mount or rings ($200+)
Dropping $10k+ right out of the gate is a tough pill to swallow. We don't know where the guy lives, what ranges are around him, how often he'll be able to shoot or whether or not he's even going to enjoy it if he's "just getting into bolt guns." If he sticks with it, yeah, a good argument can be made for the AI in the long run. Otherwise you guys are fishing for deals on the exchange down the road.
I'd do a bighorn origin with a criterion prefit, a bravo, a used optic, etc. Cut the budget in half and still have something you can sell for almost what you paid for it. Hell, maybe more with the way things are going. Accuracy will be about the same without the second mortgage.
I have friends and family that bought guns they can't afford to shoot. Don't be that guy. YMMV.
is 6.5 creed or 308 more accurate? assuming highly skilled shooterYou should try growing out of that middle school attitude before posting again.
Thanks. I have the disposable income to splurge on this, so the financial part isn't a problem. I had a taste for sorta long range shooting (only up to 200 yards), I was using a KAC SR-15 for that, and obviously that's not the right caliber nor nearly as effective as a top end bolt action rifle like the AI. So I am interested and I'd love to learn more.
The KAC should be more than adequate for 200 yards. Outside of 500 is where I'd start looking for another platform.
If you've got the dough, an AI is the bees knees. Just make sure you take it well beyond that 200 yards. That's like driving a lemans prototype through midtown Manhattan during rush hour or keeping a greyhound in a a studio apartment. If you want to wring out the performance of the AI, I also wouldn't overlook reloading equipment. It'll save you some coin in the long run too.
Where are you located? You might be able to meet up with someone on here and shoot their rifles before you drop a ton of cash. Maybe get a feel for what you like and what you don't. I don't have an AI, but I have a bighorn in an AI chassis, so the feel of the rifle would be similar. I'm around Charlotte though. You might want to try the local/new guy section of the forum.
If you have unlimited funds, you should consider taking up reloading.Hey thanks. I actually already purchased the AI AT in 6.5 creedmoor. I'll be picking it up from the FFL dealer next week. As for ammo, I know there is a shortage, but it appears there's always some for sale on gunbroker, even if the price is high, I don't mind it.
Hey thanks. I actually already purchased the AI AT in 6.5 creedmoor. I'll be picking it up from the FFL dealer next week. As for ammo, I know there is a shortage, but it appears there's always some for sale on gunbroker, even if the price is high, I don't mind it.
Would you be getting a suppressor? You might consider a brake that can accept one.Also, would this be a good muzzle brake for the 6.5 creedmoor AT?
So assuming that is done and dusted, a couple quick notes:
Get a decent bipod (NOT a harris) and a decent set of front and rear bags.
You can take off the rear stock from your AI AT and replace it with the AX rear end
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Get a decent scope mount (NOT vertically split) as that makes a big difference.
If you can't find your 6.5CM ammo but can find .308, then just get a .308 barrel and you are set to go ($500 to $800 depending on barrel).
Become a site supporter at either of the levels that give you online training access and then dedicate the time to watch all of Frank's training videos and the associated discussion threads.
No, they're horizontally split. Unless that picture is wrong.hey, the night force A108 rings wouldn’t be considered vertically split and would be a fine choice?
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I actually started F class with my AI AT last year. Got me to expert.cause he doesnt have a clue what he's doing
f class scope on an AI makes a lot of sense
also, OP, if youre gonna buy a Hellfire at least buy it direct from Area 419
I've shot ftr with an ai mk3 too. Doesn't mean it's the best tool for the job.I actually started F class with my AI AT last year. Got me to expert.
So assuming that is done and dusted, a couple quick notes:
Get a decent bipod (NOT a harris) and a decent set of front and rear bags.
ohoh those are fighting words for @Huskydriver
I would HIGHLY recommend having a competent gunsmith or armorer install it for you. You need the proper tools and setup. They’re not difficult to do by any means, and they don’t need a shim set because they’re self timing, but you don’t want to screw something up on the rifle on day 1.
When I install the area 419 hellfire muzzle brake, do I need to apply any thread grease, blue loctite.. etc?
Dude. If a shooter can’t install an A419 Hellfire themselves, they shouldn’t be pulling a trigger. It takes 30 seconds, one wrench, and the only way to mess it up is to somehow crossthread. If you can screw in a lightbulb, you can install a hellfire.I would HIGHLY recommend having a competent gunsmith or armorer install it for you. You need the proper tools and setup. They’re not difficult to do by any means, and they don’t need a shim set because they’re self timing, but you don’t want to screw something up on the rifle on day 1.
Dude. If a shooter can’t install an A419 Hellfire themselves, they shouldn’t be pulling a trigger. It takes 30 seconds, one wrench, and the only way to mess it up is to somehow crossthread. If you can screw in a lightbulb, you can install a hellfire.
Dude. If a shooter can’t install an A419 Hellfire themselves, they shouldn’t be pulling a trigger. It takes 30 seconds, one wrench, and the only way to mess it up is to somehow crossthread. If you can screw in a lightbulb, you can install a hellfire.
OP, they are great brakes. I also recommend purchasing direct from the manufacturer when it comes to most things, unless they are carried by commercial supporters of this site. One thing you might want to consider is to get the 308 brake so you can use it with a 65 and 308 barrel down the line. Then all you’ll need is another adapter and not the entire brake system. If money isn’t a factor, then buy caliber specific for each barrel and you’ll be just as happy.
Don’t let the idiots here discourage you. You did right with the rifle. Nothing wrong with your scope for the time being unless you have a specific purpose. It will still work, obviously, but might not make you as efficient and effective in that particular task. Don’t skimp on rings, buy a torque set (fix it sticks are great), and research where you’d like to take a training course. After a solid training course, you’ll see what works and doesn’t work with your setup and you’ll be able to make an informed decision for what to do next. Go to the training section on here and you’ll see what courses are available in 2021.
Best of luck to you.