Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

#1,101
Yeah, when I say I have never broken one in it is because I don’t believe in it either. I have read extensively about it. I guess I will just shoot it and see what happens. I don’t clean either LOL. At least until my groups open up. I maybe cleaned my .308 once in around 2000 rounds.
 
#1,102
The Tubb Final Finish products are counterproductive on a high quality, lapped, high end barrel.

They are, in my personal experience, a godsend when dealing with your average mass produced barrel. First and foremost, application to a mass produced barrel will either eliminate or severely reduce its tendency to foul with copper. Secondly, if the barrel has mediocre accuracy FF will improve it, sometimes dramatically.

And the Tubb Throat Maintenance System is something I send down all my barrels at periodic intervals no matter who made them.
 
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#1,103
308pirate said:
The Tubb Final Finish products are counterproductive on a high quality, lapped, high end barrel.

They are, in my personal experience, a godsend when dealing with your average mass produced barrel. First and foremost, application to a mass produced barrel will either eliminate or severely reduce its tendency to foul with copper. Secondly, if the barrel has mediocre accuracy FF will improve it, sometimes dramatically.

And the Tubb Throat Maintenance System is something I send down all my barrels at periodic intervals no matter who made them.
Click to expand...

I have been thinking about tubs. If it doesn’t shoot well in the first 20 or so, I’ll try tubbs.
 
#1,104
Hi All,

I recently picked up a 6.5CM RPR along with a Nightforce 5-25x56 ATACR and are looking for some advice with the scope mounting. Ideally I would like a like a unimount with an additional 20MOA, does anyone have a similar setup they can recommend a mount?

Here are two links I have been looking at however not sure whether they will suit:

http://www.badgerordnance.com/unimounts/34-mm-1-piece-unimount-ultra-high-1-5.html

https://spuhrwebshop.com/en/isms/sp/extended/sp-4603b.html

I don't need QD optionality, thanks for any advice in advance.

Cheers
 
#1,105
vscorsa said:
Hi All,

I recently picked up a 6.5CM RPR along with a Nightforce 5-25x56 ATACR and are looking for some advice with the scope mounting. Ideally I would like a like a unimount with an additional 20MOA, does anyone have a similar setup they can recommend a mount?

Here are two links I have been looking at however not sure whether they will suit:

http://www.badgerordnance.com/unimounts/34-mm-1-piece-unimount-ultra-high-1-5.html

https://spuhrwebshop.com/en/isms/sp/extended/sp-4603b.html

I don't need QD optionality, thanks for any advice in advance.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Either of those will be fine, but the additional 20 MOA is so not necessary. You will never get that 6.5 at a range where you will need that. With that ATACR and 20MOA you will have more than enough travel.
 
#1,106
vscorsa said:
Hi All,

I recently picked up a 6.5CM RPR along with a Nightforce 5-25x56 ATACR and are looking for some advice with the scope mounting. Ideally I would like a like a unimount with an additional 20MOA, does anyone have a similar setup they can recommend a mount?

Here are two links I have been looking at however not sure whether they will suit:

http://www.badgerordnance.com/unimounts/34-mm-1-piece-unimount-ultra-high-1-5.html

https://spuhrwebshop.com/en/isms/sp/extended/sp-4603b.html

I don't need QD optionality, thanks for any advice in advance.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Be careful. I mounted a vortex razor amg in a spuhr 1.5 in 0 moa isms on my 6.5 RPR and initially only got 16 mils of elevation. Got a 40 moa rail from anarchy outdoors and got 22 mil of total elevation. Scope has 27.5 mils of elevation so I’m perfect, right in the middle.
 
#1,108
Bender said:
I sold off my aac-sd .308 and bought a RPR 6.5 gen 2 for $997 shipped. I couldn’t pass up at that price. I sure hope the factory barrel shoots good before I have to replace it. Now I am looking for a scope. I might go back to the tough as a cinderblock SWFA 3X15. I don’t shoot competitions, but I am looking to go out to the BLM land and shoot 1000 yards or better.
Click to expand...
I have the one you just bought. I have put about 80 rounds through it and while it is not a long distance, at 100 yds it can shoot half inch groups of 5 rounds all day. Went out with a small caliber target the other day and hit a 3/8" dot at 100 yds twice in a row. Pretty good in the hands of a rank amateur like me who has not shot a rifle in over 20 years.
 
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#1,109
vscorsa said:
Hi All,

I recently picked up a 6.5CM RPR along with a Nightforce 5-25x56 ATACR and are looking for some advice with the scope mounting. Ideally I would like a like a unimount with an additional 20MOA, does anyone have a similar setup they can recommend a mount?

Here are two links I have been looking at however not sure whether they will suit:

http://www.badgerordnance.com/unimounts/34-mm-1-piece-unimount-ultra-high-1-5.html

https://spuhrwebshop.com/en/isms/sp/extended/sp-4603b.html

I don't need QD optionality, thanks for any advice in advance.

Cheers
Click to expand...
I had the Spuhr mount on my last 300WM, their built like a tank.. you can't go wrong with them
 
#1,113
Bender said:
I have never broken in a barrel. But it seems from my light research that this Ruger platform would benefit from it? Has anybody tried David tubs final finish on a few rounds to see if it will help break it in quicker? I would hate to shoot 300 rounds of Barrel life just to get it to settle in.
Click to expand...

Yes, I've used Tubbs Final Finish Kit on my RPR .308 and it did make a significant difference for me. Before I used it I was getting consistent 1/2 MOA with my hand loads and afterwards with the same loads I was getting .3 to .4 MOAs and sometimes in the .2's. I didn't feel I needed to use the courser grits as looking in the barrel through an endoscope it didn't look all that bad. So I just used the 3 lighter grits through the barrel following the instructions on how to load. So, not only was I getting tighter groupings but as expected, the barrel was a little easier to clean and felt a lot smoother when pushing the patches through the barrel. The one caveat is that upon measuring the lands afterwards, I noted that it was about .010 longer that before though Tubb's info states there is no more that .0003 of wear on the barrel (which I don't think they were talking about the lands in particular). I was a little disappointed in this wear on the lands since the RPR has such a long throat, but I'm quite happy with the results I see on paper.
 
#1,115
Anyone know who makes the Brownells Ruger Precision Barrels for Brownells? I’m planning on picking up a Gen2 6CM and going to get a cut rifled 6.5 barrel for it. But I have a bunch of reloading supplies for 308 and would also like to have a 308 barrel for it. Not looking for anything fancy for the 308 just to be able to have 308 without spending another $500+ on a barrel I probably won’t shoot all that often but also don’t want total garbage.
 
#1,117
trob_205 said:
Anyone know who makes the Brownells Ruger Precision Barrels for Brownells? I’m planning on picking up a Gen2 6CM and going to get a cut rifled 6.5 barrel for it. But I have a bunch of reloading supplies for 308 and would also like to have a 308 barrel for it. Not looking for anything fancy for the 308 just to be able to have 308 without spending another $500+ on a barrel I probably won’t shoot all that often but also don’t want total garbage.
Click to expand...

Brownell's RPR barrels are from Criterion (see: http://criterionbarrels.com/prefits/rpr ). If you're not already aware, Criterion was an offshoot from Krieger and the though Criterion is now a completely desperate company from Krieger, both companies have the same owner who directs quality issues.

PS: Don't know who makes their cheaper RPR barrels, but have a feeling that they're simply basic factory replacement barrels.
 
Last edited:
#1,119
There's been some discussion concerning fire lapping. Very useful process for rough barrels.
Those not comfortable with trying it might consider a good scrubbing with Iosso paste.
I've been using it to remove the tool marks from the throats of fresh chambers and I'm impressed with the stuff.
30-40 strokes on a tight fitting patch would certainly speed up the break in of a factory barrel. It also makes short work of copper and carbon fouling.
 
#1,120
whatsupdoc said:
Recoil lug or Bolt lug
Click to expand...
Bolt. Duh, dummy me. Sense my 1st post I've removed the barrel cleaned real good and lapped. I used that reddish colored polishing compound that came with a Dremal tool kit. I mixed it with a little gun grease. Cleaned up really nice. I have to say the stainless bolt lugs were the worse but the action lugs were ugly too. The bolt lapped quicker than the action. Seemed like the stainless bolt was softer than the chrome moly action. Actually the bolt lugs seem real soft, scratch easy! Think I'll have to pay closer attention to keeping this area clean.
 
#1,121
TacticalDillhole said:
when i say settle, i mean get really consistent. it was a sub MOA rifle from the first shot. it just came into itsown around 300, either that or i got more comfortable shooting it. barrel break in has been beat to death, i dont believe it makes a substantial enough difference to go through all that work. on a factory mass produced barrel i can see it having some small fringe benefit, but a barrel from a custom shop, no way.
Click to expand...

TD, If it's any help, I have about 1200 rnds through my factory barrel now - it's still a hammer. The only difference I have noticed is that it goes a little longer between needing to be cleaned. Accuracy starts to drop of quickly around 80-90 rnds now, where it was about 50-60 when new. It still, and always has built a lot of copper quickly. -Gordo
 
#1,122
GordoNV said:
TD, If it's any help, I have about 1200 rnds through my factory barrel now - it's still a hammer. The only difference I have noticed is that it goes a little longer between needing to be cleaned. Accuracy starts to drop of quickly around 80-90 rnds now, where it was about 50-60 when new. It still, and always has built a lot of copper quickly. -Gordo
Click to expand...

How often are you cleaning?
 
#1,124
Mike a said:
Bolt. Duh, dummy me. Sense my 1st post I've removed the barrel cleaned real good and lapped. I used that reddish colored polishing compound that came with a Dremal tool kit. I mixed it with a little gun grease. Cleaned up really nice. I have to say the stainless bolt lugs were the worse but the action lugs were ugly too. The bolt lapped quicker than the action. Seemed like the stainless bolt was softer than the chrome moly action. Actually the bolt lugs seem real soft, scratch easy! Think I'll have to pay closer attention to keeping this area clean.
Click to expand...

I use a little grease on the lugs and clean the receiver lugs after every outing.
To avoid this.
 

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#1,126
FlaShooterG said:
I was warned about this and have also been going down the route of adding a little grease to the lugs to avoid wear.
Click to expand...
Why would anyone NOT lubricate the bolt and lugs? I was taught by my grandfather in the early 60's the basic things that need to be done to maintain a firearm. Greasing the lugs on the bolt and receiver are basic, and have always been. Anywhere metal moves on metal, it gets cleaned and lubrication of the appropriate type. EVERYTIME, even if it's just a quick trip out with only a single shot, clean and lube. I have several of his rifles now, some well over a hundred years old, including one that he got from his grandfather, and all still function flawlessly.
 
#1,127
So I've got about 2400 rounds through my .308 now. Curious if anyone else has had their butt stock screws come loose. My stock went from wiggling a little to very very loose. Pulled the butt pad off, screws out, loc tited them and reassembled. Seems all good now.
 
#1,128
LongRangeLefty said:
So I've got about 2400 rounds through my .308 now. Curious if anyone else has had their butt stock screws come loose. My stock went from wiggling a little to very very loose. Pulled the butt pad off, screws out, loc tited them and reassembled. Seems all good now.
Click to expand...

i replaced mine witha PRS Gen 3 and some blue Loc tite. GTG.
 
#1,129
Griz44Mag said:
Why would anyone NOT lubricate the bolt and lugs? I was taught by my grandfather in the early 60's the basic things that need to be done to maintain a firearm. Greasing the lugs on the bolt and receiver are basic, and have always been. Anywhere metal moves on metal, it gets cleaned and lubrication of the appropriate type. EVERYTIME, even if it's just a quick trip out with only a single shot, clean and lube. I have several of his rifles now, some well over a hundred years old, including one that he got from his grandfather, and all still function flawlessly.
Click to expand...
Griz
Thanks for the response. I absolutely agree that clean and lube should be done on all weapons each time following their use. Truly, this is the way to insure they function as designed for as long as possible. It is really nice when we are handed down sage advice that is as sound as yours and I thank you for it. What I am also looking for is advice anyone can offer on replacement bolts for the RPR other tha trying to go back to the factory. Does anyone know of a replacement bolt that is either more accurate or more durable than the factory bolt??
 
#1,131
whatsupdoc said:
I use a little grease on the lugs and clean the receiver lugs after every outing.
To avoid this.
Click to expand...

Id like to avoid that. Not to derail the thread I know how much grease/oil threads become a debate but is there any good or bad grease to use? I have some Hoppes Black grease, some other red grease in a syringe, and some automotive wheel bearing grease from AR barrel nuts.. Would any of those suffice or is there any that may be better?
 
#1,132
flyfisher117 said:
Id like to avoid that. Not to derail the thread I know how much grease/oil threads become a debate but is there any good or bad grease to use? I have some Hoppes Black grease, some other red grease in a syringe, and some automotive wheel bearing grease from AR barrel nuts.. Would any of those suffice or is there any that may be better?
Click to expand...

I've got just over 1800 rounds through my RPR, so far, and have been using Otters Choke Tube & Gun Grease (just a smidgen) on my lugs and they currently look great and lock down nice and firm.

I'm not fond on Hoppes Black grease or any other "black" grease as it prevents seeing what that might be going on in the area it's being used in.
 
#1,133
flyfisher117 said:
Id like to avoid that. Not to derail the thread I know how much grease/oil threads become a debate but is there any good or bad grease to use? I have some Hoppes Black grease, some other red grease in a syringe, and some automotive wheel bearing grease from AR barrel nuts.. Would any of those suffice or is there any that may be better?
Click to expand...
I keep a small jar of RIG on my bench. It was designed for stainless steel to prevent galling, but I have found it to be an excellent grease for just about anything that needs greased. I like the small container with the full size screw off lid, makes it handy to dip from with finger. screwdriver tip or q tip for easy use.
 
#1,134
flyfisher117 said:
Id like to avoid that. Not to derail the thread I know how much grease/oil threads become a debate but is there any good or bad grease to use? I have some Hoppes Black grease, some other red grease in a syringe, and some automotive wheel bearing grease from AR barrel nuts.. Would any of those suffice or is there any that may be better?
Click to expand...
I always use an automotive anti seize (the silver stuff) on barrel nuts. It was designed to use even on spark plugs where the heat gets really intense. It wont dry out after several years and get sticky like bearing grease. I have been known to get an AR barrel exceptionally hot...
 
#1,135
straightshooter1 said:
I've got just over 1800 rounds through my RPR, so far, and have been using Otters Choke Tube & Gun Grease (just a smidgen) on my lugs and they currently look great and lock down nice and firm.

I'm not fond on Hoppes Black grease or any other "black" grease as it prevents seeing what that might be going on in the area it's being used in.
Click to expand...

I didn't think of the color hiding bad stuff. I guess I'll use some of the red grease for now and watch for some more choke lube. I had some but who knows where it ended up.

Griz44Mag said:
I keep a small jar of RIG on my bench. It was designed for stainless steel to prevent galling, but I have found it to be an excellent grease for just about anything that needs greased. I like the small container with the full size screw off lid, makes it handy to dip from with finger. screwdriver tip or q tip for easy use.
Click to expand...

Thanks!
 
#1,142
quickdraw said:
Well 1300 rounds down the factory barrel. The throat has grown to a point where I can't load in a mag and still be .020 off of the lands. The rifle still shoots sub-half moa though so I'm still staying with the factory 6.5CM barrel. How much life should I expect from this barrel....2,000, 2,500.... what say ye?
Click to expand...

The throat erosion on my 6.5 RPR is almost a constant rate of .025"/1000 rounds. After 1500 rounds the throat has moved about .032" forward as measured with the Hornady tool and using the same bullet for all measurements. Rounds wont fit in the magazine for .010" off lands. The loads are almost exclusively 42 gr RL-16 and RL-17 with 140 gr ELDM bullets. MV are at or below 2800. The rifle can still shoot sub MOA although sub 1/2 MOA has never been achieved. Does this seem excessive for throat erosion?
 
#1,143
Hawkin said:
The throat erosion on my 6.5 RPR is almost a constant rate of .025"/1000 rounds. After 1500 rounds the throat has moved about .032" forward as measured with the Hornady tool and using the same bullet for all measurements. Rounds wont fit in the magazine for .010" off lands. The loads are almost exclusively 42 gr RL-16 and RL-17 with 140 gr ELDM bullets. MV are at or below 2800. The rifle can still shoot sub MOA although sub 1/2 MOA has never been achieved. Does this seem excessive for throat erosion?
Click to expand...

6.5CR's are known for a relatively short barrel life. After 1800 rounds through my .308 RPR, my throat erosion it right at .020" since it was new and am still getting sub 1/2 MOAs. And since .308 are know for quite long barrel life, the .032" for a 6.5CR sounds about right.
 
#1,144
I was probably around 1700-1800 rounds when mag length started dictating my OAL. 2 of us bought consecutive serial number rifles at the same time. We decided to try the Tubbs Final Finishsystem on them for a break-in process but we split a box so we ran 25 rounds instead of the normal 50. Using the minimum charge weight of the fastest powder we had (Varget) these rifles were shooting bugholes during the break-in. I have no idea if the final finish setup the barrels for accuracy of just the luck of the draw with barrels but it was 2 rifles that acted the exact same way for their entire barrel life.

We recently replaced the barrels on both rifles with Proof Research CF. Just getting going with these with about 150 rounds down the tube. Jury still out but I can see load development being a process during the 1st 300'ish rounds.
 
#1,145
Just got a MP PRS stock put in on my RPR and the shortest LOP I can get is 15". I have relatively long arms but I see this stock on a lot of RPRs so for those that have this stock and relatively normal LOP whats the advantage? Havn't even shot it with the stock on yet, may just put the factory stock back on and call it a day.
 
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