Both scopes are Sig Tango4 6x24. The black one is on the creed; which needs rebarreled.
Just picked up they 556 but haven’t had the chance to do much with it yet. I have another magpul that will be going on it.
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Both scopes are Sig Tango4 6x24. The black one is on the creed; which needs rebarreled.
Just picked up they 556 but haven’t had the chance to do much with it yet. I have another magpul that will be going on it.
^ Even the box and packaging foam is very nice. Still have mine. Kept it in case I ever had to send the rifle out for work
I got the busted grey styro foam instead of the crush resistant black foam... First impression; my thumb is sore as shit! That stock release button took a small hammer to get released! The release is still very tight, but will work out with time. Hell, I even manage to over rotate the bolt and ended up releasing the firing pin. It's all good though, found a stout surface and rotated back in place... just beginners mistakes.
The rifle is tight, I am very impressed. Some of the edges could be more refined, otherwise no real complaints.
Question; is the bolt shroud supposed to be floppy-loose after bolt extraction?
Tornado going close by, and lights are flickering... more later.
The rifle is tight, I am very impressed. Some of the edges could be more refined, otherwise no real complaints.
Question; is the bolt shroud supposed to be floppy-loose after bolt extraction?
Tornado going close by, and lights are flickering... more later.
^ Nope. Shroud should be nice and tight still. That’s the second complaint of that recently. Hope the lights are on!
Mine was crazy loose. From what I read the safety bulletin fix was the “new” sloppier shroud. Couldn’t stand it so I bought and LRI shroud and its WAY tighter.
Who's put the RPR on a diet?
Now that I've had the gun for about a year and very much impressed with the platform, I'd like to put the pig on a diet. Anyone else taken steps to lighten up the RPR? Current thoughts on where to cut some LBs:
1) Barrel - replace or shorten factory 6.5 tube. Either cut and shorten current tube to 18 or 20 (will have suppressor) or replace with custom or Proof.
2) Handguard - shorter barrel could dictate a shorter, lighter hand guard.
3) Buttstock - any input would be helpful. Maybe the XLR Tac Lite?
4) ???? - Anywhere else I could cut some weight? Already using a SS 10x42 (fairly light) and Seekins MXM. Could trip that for rings, but I like the mount.
Looking forward to hearing feedback and ideas on an RPR diet. No illusion of making this a mountain rifle, but I would like to shed a little excess to make it easier to carry for hunting, and easier to move around in elevated shooting house/blind. Obviously, not interested in losing any accuracy, and I don't imagine a little weight would harm that.
Now that I've had the gun for about a year and very much impressed with the platform, I'd like to put the pig on a diet. Anyone else taken steps to lighten up the RPR? Current thoughts on where to cut some LBs:
1) Barrel - replace or shorten factory 6.5 tube. Either cut and shorten current tube to 18 or 20 (will have suppressor) or replace with custom or Proof.
2) Handguard - shorter barrel could dictate a shorter, lighter hand guard.
3) Buttstock - any input would be helpful. Maybe the XLR Tac Lite?
4) ???? - Anywhere else I could cut some weight? Already using a SS 10x42 (fairly light) and Seekins MXM. Could trip that for rings, but I like the mount.
Looking forward to hearing feedback and ideas on an RPR diet. No illusion of making this a mountain rifle, but I would like to shed a little excess to make it easier to carry for hunting, and easier to move around in elevated shooting house/blind. Obviously, not interested in losing any accuracy, and I don't imagine a little weight would harm that.
The release can be, and should be, tight. While pressing on the release, just "rattle" the stock back and forth, it will release without beating on it.....
I did not like the way the "new" shroud fit, so I put my old one back on. I will eventually order one of the titanium shrouds, I like those!
I tried everything I could think of to get that stock release to... well, release, and the small mallet style hammer was the only thing to do just that. The hammer is a molded plastic hammer, so no marring. It still sticks, but I can now use my thumb as intended by the owners manual.
Unless the bolt shroud fails I doubt I will change it. If I do, then I would opt for the LRI design... specifically the Snipershide variant.
Unless the bolt shroud fails I doubt I will change it. If I do, then I would opt for the LRI design... specifically the Snipershide variant.
Why will a shorter barrel be less accurate?? Weight is end user dependent and doesn’t make a rifle more accurate. More Weight makes it more forgiving and you can get away with more technique imperfections. LowLights new “thing” is shorter and lighter. It works well and if the little bit of added recoil of a lighter rifle bothers someone then might be time to get back to the basics.The weight of the rifle is one of the factors that help make it accurate. Larger mass means less recoil. Heavy is not a bad thing. Shorter barrel has a high chance of not being as accurate as well. Maybe you need to consider a set of barbells to use when you are not out shooting???
I think the 3 you listed are your options. Proof would be the lightest barrel but you could probably order a light Palma blank and have a smith spin it up and loose a few maybe?
Thanks Trob. Same thoughts here - don't know why a shorter barrel would be any less accurate.
I'll poke around the web and consider the cost/weight options of doing a shorter barrel. Don't care one bit about velocity loss. I'd be happy with a 20 or 18" in the 6.5 Creed, especially after a 7 inch TBAC gets strapped on up front.
I'll poke around the web and consider the cost/weight options of doing a shorter barrel. Don't care one bit about velocity loss. I'd be happy with a 20 or 18" in the 6.5 Creed, especially after a 7 inch TBAC gets strapped on up front.
Simple physics, longer barrels have higher muzzle velocities. Higher velocities have flatter trajectories. Flatter trajectories will yield better accuracy over longer distances. I have riles in 308 in 20", 24" and 26", the 20" needs 10.7 mils at 1,000 yards, the 26" runs 9.8 mils with the same load. The 26" barrel has the most rounds through it, and still produces the tightest groups at distance. At 250 yards, you can't tell the difference, at 1,000+, it is all the difference. Sure, barrel conditions will also effect speed, but just take a look at any professionally mapped barrel vs length graph. Best speed is achieved from longer barrels. I shoot multiple calibers and with several, I have multiple barrel lengths, I find this true with all of them. It does not mean they won't shoot great at distance, because they all do. But the ones with longer barrels produces the best accuracy.
I know a few gun smiths who would argue with that. Velocity doesn't equal accuracy. Some would argue that the longer barrels 26+ flex more and are not as ridged as a shorter barrel, which may cause inconsistencies.
Velocity has little to nothing to do with accuracy. If it did the 6.5 CM would be terribly inaccurate, and we would all be shooting some 4000fps wonder cartridge.
As long as the velocity is sufficient to properly stabilize the given bullet you should be in good shape.
As long as the velocity is sufficient to properly stabilize the given bullet you should be in good shape.
I’m good with velocity at 100 and 600 with a 168 gr bullet. I don’t know my exact velocity. I just know it’s accurate. Same thing for 1000. Based on ballistics I think I’m around 2500-2550 FPS. For 1000 I just load up a 190 gr SMK and use it as a Mack truck to make my delivery.
LOL, don't get all wadded up cause you have a short barrel. What I state is my personal experience with my personal firearms. It's not personal. As to 26"+, I only have one rifle with a barrel that exceeds 26", and it is a 34" barrel 36 caliber that you pour black powder down the barrel and chase it with a round ball wrapped in a patch. That is is WAY more accurate than the 28" 50 caliber that loads the same way. I am not one of those smiths that would say a long barrel is bad, but I am one of those smiths that would find it very doubtful that a good match grade barrel would flex enough to notice. Maybe an extra long pencil barrel, but most folks that run pencil barrels do so in short versions because they save weight. (like an AR.) What ever floats yer boat, my boat floats best with longer barrels.
Heavy hitter for sure... I have not tried the 190's in my LONG .308 barrel. But the logic is all there. Heavy holds it's energy longer. I'll order a batch on the next restock and bench them to see what they are doing. The 175 SMK runs very nicely in a 26" barrel. (But we should not talk about that in the RPR section...)
Was tooling around the PRS sites earlier today, found this:
Scan down the page and find the most popular barrels and lengths used by the top PRS shooters.
No 20" in the pack. Group is split into 8 cartridges, all but one the most popular barrel is 26", with 24" in the one cartridge that was not 26"
http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/11/21/precision-rifle-barrels/
Scan down the page and find the most popular barrels and lengths used by the top PRS shooters.
No 20" in the pack. Group is split into 8 cartridges, all but one the most popular barrel is 26", with 24" in the one cartridge that was not 26"
http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/11/21/precision-rifle-barrels/
You should give them a try. 42.5 gr of varget is working very nicely for me. I found a lot of other people online that were using the same powder charge in longer barrels too. I shot the 175 SMK at 600 and they did very well for me there, but not so well at 1000 on colder days. I could’ve gone a few different ways, but I chose more weight and more energy with the 190 SMK. They did great, so I just use them for 600 too. Probably my most accurate load.
Looks like there is a top 10 20” in the pack griz lol and a top 10 22”. They are playing a game and a big factor in their game is speed. Of course on average they are using longer barrels to achieve the speeds they want. They also aren’t running cans for the most part and have a high speed brakes. Longer barrels do not equal better accuracy. If it’s that way in your head then don’t change. Precision shooting is 90% mental.
When my RPR gets a new barrel it’ll most likely be 22” plus a TBAC 30-P1. Having the can on the factory 24” makes this rifle feel HUGE compared to my 20” 308 build. Super tempting to take the 6.5CM to 20” as well just to make it a little handier.
When my RPR gets a new barrel it’ll most likely be 22” plus a TBAC 30-P1. Having the can on the factory 24” makes this rifle feel HUGE compared to my 20” 308 build. Super tempting to take the 6.5CM to 20” as well just to make it a little handier.
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All I wanna do is lose a little RPR weight. I DGAF about velocity or PRS barrel lengths or Griz's "personal experience with his personal firearms". So much for asking for "Best ways to lose RPR weight" and get the ol PRS accuracy lecture.
Some of us just want a handy RPR for taking into the hunting field.
Some of us just want a handy RPR for taking into the hunting field.
Lol sorry; I tend to get a little carried away at times. You could look into the carbon fiber barrels, a skeleton or lighter stock, maybe a light weight bolt shroud, rings, scope and a light weight handguard. That’s really about the only way to put her on a diet that I can think of.
I agree . . . carbon fiber barrel reduces quite a bit of weight, not to mention other good attributes (e.g. heat dispersion. stiffness). Otherwise, a lighter contoured barrel that's shorter than 20" if it's just for hunting??? Surely a lighter hand guard can be found. And how about a lighter scope (like some of the non-progressive ones)?
Good enough for me. Just curious though, why do you come to this forum if not to gain knowledge and insight about your hobby? Changes to any rifle can and probably will effect it's performance, maybe a little, maybe a lot, maybe good, maybe bad. That's something I would want to know about and take into consideration. If all you are really seeking is peer approval for what you want to do to YOUR firearm, then so be it. Just do it. It's yours. I never said you were doing anything wrong, only that the changes you want to make could change the performance. If you really don't care what others may have to add to your conversation, maybe farcebook would be a better medium for you.
Just so were clear, youre basing your opinions on accuracy and barrel lengths on a fucking musket?
Take your own advice and keep studying up, there s a big difference between accuracy and trajectory.
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Already using a 10x SWFA SS, so pretty light on the optics. Not willing to use anything else thats lighter and unproven. I'm confident with the SS.
I think I'll start with a shorter barrel in a light palma, similar to factory. Reduce hand guard length/weight, and see where that leaves me. Proof barrel would be nice, but pricey. Heck, maybe just start with cutting back the factory tube to 20.
@Griz44Mag - I appreciate your take. Its just the first time I've EVER read anyone connect the accuracy dots via barrel length and velocity. Either you know something that no one else knows, or....
I think I'll start with a shorter barrel in a light palma, similar to factory. Reduce hand guard length/weight, and see where that leaves me. Proof barrel would be nice, but pricey. Heck, maybe just start with cutting back the factory tube to 20.
@Griz44Mag - I appreciate your take. Its just the first time I've EVER read anyone connect the accuracy dots via barrel length and velocity. Either you know something that no one else knows, or....
I’m the only one on the 1000 yard line around here with a barrel shorter than 26”, and probably the only one shooting a bullet weighing more than 180 gr. I score just as well as everyone else. However, I can’t deny that if those targets were pushed back another 500 that I’d want a longer barrel. Obviously contour, twist, and other things will come into play, but it could give me a ballistic advantage using the same load. Just sayin. Please don’t burn down my house
I agree..... this was a couple weeks ago breaking her in. Took her out to 1000+ by the end of the day.
The one you see in the picture is not mine, it’s my cousins. But it’s the V3. It just straps on to the end of your barrel. Very easy to use, highly recommend. Has a little digital screen which gives you your muzzle velocity, mean, and SD etc.
Thanks! I wish I could say I painted it but it’s the factory Barrett Brown model they ran. I don’t see much of them but I love mine.
Totally depends on barrel. I’ve had the magneto have same poi as without and I’ve also had the lighter or longner barrels show some shift. My 20” m24 contour 308 was no difference, my 450 hunting rifle showed a huge difference. I havnt yet got it on the RPR yet so well see what it does.
Who cares about your POI change?? Your getting data about your ammo. It’s not like your gonna go shoot a comp with your chrono on......shoot your 5-10 shots until you get your data and then take it off. It’s data collection, not a tool for marksmanship.
I am really digging this RPR in 6 creed! I picked it up last week and really only beginning load development and it loves the hybrids! I have 500 115 Dtacs and only about 175 hybrids left so I hope it likes them. This group was my second load with the Berger 105 hybrids, H4350 42.0, br2, horn brass, 2.80 oal.
