Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

#1,551
^ I’ve used both cheap and high end glass long range. With great glass comes great clarity. It’s not like it’s going to cancel out mirage. But even with mirage, great glass will still be sharper than cheap glass. Sure power, paralax, and other things come into play, but a better sight picture will be produced in just about all conditions with better glass. You get what you pay for I my experience.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bender
#1,552
The_Count said:
What scope are you purchasing as a replacement? Razor?
Click to expand...
well like i said, probably leave it on the RPR and rebarrel to a 308 and build up another 6.5. i have a razer sitting here already that i could use on that but ill probably just stick with NF S&B and Kahles from now on. Im really liking the MSR reticles these days so S&B and Kahles are high on my list.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bender
#1,556
straightshooter1 said:
Yeah, this was my experience with my .308 out of the box (3/4 MOA and sometimes better with factory ammo). But, like with anything that's in high production, not all are going to perform well.
Click to expand...
Listening to the podcast Franks big on if you get one that doesn’t shoot - rip it apart and put it back together “tight as shit” and it’ll shoot lol. Some barrels might walk, but from what I’ve dealt with selling these things is to give the factory barrels a chance. They do shoot.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Burnbio and Bender
#1,561
My .308 is gonna go for quite some time. I’ve actually got a new back up barrel just waiting to go after that. 1/2 moa is fine for my standards and purposes. I’m good for a longggg time
 
#1,562
Likewise, my .308 barrel is going to last quite a while (mostly using mild loads) and now with a little over 2,300 rounds out of it, I'm still getting 1/2 MOA or better, which also meets my standard. But. . . there's room for improvement. So I'm going to get a good high end barrel to mount and keep the factory barrel as a backup. There's two issues I want to improve on: a barrel that isn't affected as much by the hot summer days of triple digit degrees and one that has longer nodes for variations in ammo.
 
#1,565
PhOnEpHrEaK said:
It was a 6.5 creed; it died on me during a match at about 3300 rounds. 300 factory ELDs, 800 140 RDFs over 43.0 grains of 4350, and 2200 of 140 ELDs over the same.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your response. I kind of thought that might be the case, but I hate to guess. 3300 rounds through a 6.5CR is really good life span from what I hear and to get that out of a factory barrel . . . awesome.

Looks like you like and must be doing well with 140 ELDs to have put so many down your tube. I've hear from many others that the 140 ELDs work extremely well in their 6.5CRs.
 
#1,566
My load was; hornady brass trimmed to 1.910, 43.0 grains of H4350 Br-2 primers, oal of 2.8; but grew to 2.815 by the end to chase the lands (they say the ELD is best with a .055 jump). I averaged 2811fps with 6 SD and 13 ES; up until somewhere over the 3300 mark when she gave out of me in which case i was at 2720ish with 14.7 SD and 53 ES with the same load, and same lot numbers on everything. The issue was the impacts were all over the place at 400+, but would still bughole at 100.

Now I have a 24" LRI throated for 140 ELDs on the way; so I'm looking forward to seeing the difference.
 
  • Like
Reactions: wvuhunter and Bender
#1,567
PhOnEpHrEaK said:
My load was; hornady brass trimmed to 1.910, 43.0 grains of H4350 Br-2 primers, oal of 2.8; but grew to 2.815 by the end to chase the lands (they say the ELD is best with a .055 jump). I averaged 2811fps with 6 SD and 13 ES; up until somewhere over the 3300 mark when she gave out of me in which case i was at 2720ish with 14.7 SD and 53 ES with the same load, and same lot numbers on everything. The issue was the impacts were all over the place at 400+, but would still bughole at 100.

Now I have a 24" LRI throated for 140 ELDs on the way; so I'm looking forward to seeing the difference.
Click to expand...
Factory barrel?
 
#1,573
RPR design (ie Tubb 2000) eliminates many sources of stress found in a chassis/improperly bedded stocked rifle. Short bolt throw, takes ARC mags, user adj LOP, my Timney is tuned to a field reliable 10oz pull, piles of aftermarket support, prefit barrels everywhere.

I think you can spend a lot more money on a different platform, and not achieve the same level of performance on the target, regarding the RPR.

If Ruger had decided to design it to accommodate a mag bolt face/long action, ...who knows what thier market share would've been.
 
  • Like
Reactions: trob_205, LongRangeLefty and DRAGON64
#1,574
Just got my 223 RPR out today, put a Timney trigger on it, man that trigger is real nice.

My only complaints are the plastic mags, maybe they'll get better after they wear in a bit and the aluminum on the bottom edge of butt stock has kind of a sharp edge on it. Otherwise great gun, groups were alright seeing how its 20 mile winds here.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mrfjones
#1,577
Kwe1982 said:
Just got my 223 RPR out today, put a Timney trigger on it, man that trigger is real nice.

My only complaints are the plastic mags, maybe they'll get better after they wear in a bit and the aluminum on the bottom edge of butt stock has kind of a sharp edge on it. Otherwise great gun, groups were alright seeing how its 20 mile winds here.
Click to expand...

I got a 223 gunsite scout mag for mine, and i’ll get another so i have at least 2. They are heavy but feel much better. I also put a prs on mine so no more sharp edges.
 
#1,581
#1,587
TacticalDillhole said:
It seems everything factory is a pain. When I changed my hand guard the factory barrel nut was near impossible to move. Same with muzzle brake. Omg I thought it was welded on or something.
Click to expand...

I agree! Tried taking the muzzle brake off using a home setup and could not apply enough force to break it apart. Ruger said they torque them to 15 foot-lbs. I used a 2' bar/lever trying to spin it off and applied a hell of a lot more force than 15 ft-lbs. It would not budge and I didn't have enough hands to hold the two opposing wrenches and use a hammer to tap on muzzzle brake all at the same time.

Decided to take it to my gunsmith instead and make it HIS problem! :D May be the best $45 I've ever spent! :cool:

I'm hoping a proper barrel vise, a touch of differential heating, a few hammer taps, and a set of augmented wrenches will solve the problem!
 
#1,588
PhOnEpHrEaK said:
For those who are wondering; removing the factory barrel is a pain..
Click to expand...

Seems like I got a factory freak. I have completely disassembled my gen 1 no problem at all.

Just curious, as I haven’t had the problem, if the barrel will thread out of the receiver with the nut practically welded to the barrel still, could you just install a new barrel with a new nut?
 
Last edited:
#1,600
kdarcy said:
What about bore guides, are there any specific for the rpr? What are people using?
Click to expand...
I have one from Mike Lucas but they are kind of pricey. $72.00 including shipping (2016 price). You have to email him since he doesn't have a web site. You will have to send him a check before it ships and supply him with the diameter of your cleaning rod so the guide will fit your rod.
Let me know if you want his email address.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Ruger Precision Rifle, thermal shift , Inaccuracy, common problem?
Replies
2
Views
197
TRG65
TRG65
M
Ruger Precision rifle sling
Replies
2
Views
535
SmokeyJoe101
SmokeyJoe101
Hunt2Eat.dk
Seekins Precision AR safety selector kit for Ruger Precision Rifle 300WM
Replies
0
Views
58
Hunt2Eat.dk
Hunt2Eat.dk
A
Suppressor change POI?
Replies
7
Views
244
Snuby642
Snuby642
BBURCH
Ruger Scout
Replies
0
Views
117
BBURCH
BBURCH
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Merch
Alerts