I see a lot of mention of trigger mods and upgrades. I am a huge trigger whore but I have found the factory, unmodified RPR to be pretty good. IMO
I agree with you and Ez. Best factory trigger I’ve used
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I see a lot of mention of trigger mods and upgrades. I am a huge trigger whore but I have found the factory, unmodified RPR to be pretty good. IMO
I just picked up a Ruger precision rifle in .300WM. I'm going to load up the following:
225gr ELD Hornady bullets
H1000 (75.9g to 77.1g in .3g increments)
Win Brass. 93g h20 capacity
GM215M Primers
Seated .025" from lands (3.621" COAL)
Vortex viper PST gen2 5-25.
I went through the rifle and torqued / loktited rail and handguard fasteners. Torqued receiver to spec as well.
Seems like a very robustly built rifle. Much more stout than the original RPR gen ii. Trigger feels great too. Must be a tight chamber/ headspace since FL resized brass from my Rem700 wouldn't allow bolt to close. New brass no problems.
The latest American rifleman article had it printing .73 MOA average of 15x5 shot groups with 3 different factory ammo so I'm hoping for a little better than that with handloads. Don't know when I'll be able to break it in but looking forward to itView attachment 6989672
Thanks straight. Is there a better place to get them than anywhere else? Or are they pretty much the same everywhere?
Between Black Friday deals and patience, I now have everything I need to set up my RPR 6.5 CM for the first time. As I understand it, as long as you're on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) public land, it's legal to shoot at targets as long as you're at least one mile from a residence and road. Trying to determine what that means here in SE Louisiana. Out on the BLM website, the maps available are not clear about where this is legal, though they identify parcels of land that they rent. Thinking of giving them a call tomorrow to understand where I might go to legally practice. Near New Orleans, there are no ranges that stretch out ... at least that I'm aware of. If you live in the area, I'd appreciate reading where you go to shoot.
I can’t seem to find the thread about the necessary tools for removing a RPR barrel so I’ll just ask it here. I thought there was a tool similar to a geissele reaction rod that went into the barrel to hold it while you cranked on the barrel but that Ruger apparently torques to a bazillion ft/lbs. I can’t find what it is exactly or who makes it. A little help please!
Just did mine today....
AR barrel nut wrench, 3/16 Allen Key (i think) aluminum barrel vise blocks, piece of leather, dead-blow hammer
Once you get it down to the point where you have the barrel in the vise and about to remove barrel nut...
I had a Geissele barrel nut wrench on standby.... But I wanted to try a chinky NcStar wrench because... well, because.
I tried to gently increase torque to remove the barrel nut.... Negative.
I placed the barrel nut wrench parallel to the ground and did 2-3 quick and forceful smacks with the dead-blow hammer about 12" from the nut.... done deal, and the barrel nut loosened up.
Thanks be fire to let me know how it shoots. I have narrowed it down to proof and Krieger. Probably make the purchase in early January.I just picked up a profit Proof M24 profile barrel, 24" from Stocky's on sale for $436 + shipping. Just got done cleaning it and I'll be screwing it on this week. Got a APA Lil' Bastard on the way as well.
https://www.stockysstocks.com/barre...-stainless-ruger-precision-rifle-barrels.html
After a couple emails back and forth about bullet choices and total headspace recommendations with Proof (prompt responses), I'm confident it will definitely outshoot me...
...but that ain't that hard LOL ?
View attachment 6989261
Thanks be fire to let me know how it shoots. I have narrowed it down to proof and Krieger. Probably make the purchase in early January.
Quick psa stocky stocks has an additional 10% off rpr prefits from proof research. I jusr picked up the steel 6.5 creed for $390
I used to shoot Prime 130g through my RPR. Shoots really well.I got a shit-ton of Prime 130 ammo, so that'll be my ammo of choice for the next few hundred rounds.
Quick psa stocky stocks has an additional 10% off rpr prefits from proof research. I jusr picked up the steel 6.5 creed for $390
When reinstalling the barrel, how do you know it’s tight enoughJust did mine today....
AR barrel nut wrench, 3/16 Allen Key (i think) aluminum barrel vise blocks, piece of leather, dead-blow hammer
Once you get it down to the point where you have the barrel in the vise and about to remove barrel nut...
I had a Geissele barrel nut wrench on standby.... But I wanted to try a chinky NcStar wrench because... well, because.
I tried to gently increase torque to remove the barrel nut.... Negative.
I placed the barrel nut wrench parallel to the ground and did 2-3 quick and forceful smacks with the dead-blow hammer about 12" from the nut.... done deal, and the barrel nut loosened up.
When reinstalling the barrel, how do you know it’s tight enough
Sorry to hear you are having issues. I have a Timney in both my 5.56 and 6.5. Both work smoothly and have a crisp smooth release.I modified my stock trigger and installed a Timney. The Timney in my rifle is not that much better than the modified stock trigger.
When reinstalling the barrel, how do you know it’s tight enough
It’s not about tight or loose. You have to use a caliber specific GO - NO GO gauge set to make sure the head space is correct before reinstalling the barrel nut
Yes correct. Thou shalt use go/no go gauges along with applying a good amount of torque on the barrel nut.
Has anyone attached the Area419 ARCA rail to their RPR factory hand guard? If so what’s your thoughts?
You should not be using a torque wrench to brake things free. That is what ratchets and breaker bars are for.The last one was a current gen 6cm and I used a torque wrench and a steel fence post ie breaker bar to get that SOB off. It almost turned over the work bench and scared the living shit out of me when it finally broke loose.
Just go to Harbor Freight and get a cheap ass torque wrench, its not that accurate but its close enough for barrel nuts.
I have used the anarchy outdoors action wrench... I have used the wheeler AR plastic vise thingie.... I have used a homemade barrel vise and a viper vise. They all have removed barrels off of RPR's. The ones post gen1 have all been tighter than f'ing tight. The last one was a current gen 6cm and I used a torque wrench and a steel fence post ie breaker bar to get that SOB off. It almost turned over the work bench and scared the living shit out of me when it finally broke loose.
Its a cheap harbor freight that no longer works its the longest big SOB I have and works great for that purpose... but ya you shouldnt use a nicely calibrated torque wrench for breaking a boltYou should not be using a torque wrench to brake things free. That is what ratchets and breaker bars are for.
For the record that anarchy action wrench is the tits and absolutely everyone should own a viper barrel vise.
Thanks be fire to let me know how it shoots. I have narrowed it down to proof and Krieger. Probably make the purchase in early January.
What method did you use to determine the +.003"?Headspace: set to Minimum +.003" as recommended by Proof.
UBarrel: Proof Research all-stainless 24", M24 profile, RPR Pre-Fit.
Brake: APA Little Bastard
Installer: Me.
Headspace: set to Minimum +.003" as recommended by Proof.
Just did the 3, clean, 3 clean, 5, clean break in as recommended by Proof Research. The cleaning patches after the final 5 rounds came out looking like:View attachment 6992143
All ammo fired was 6.5CM Prime 130g factory ammo at 50y indoor range, sitting, from a bipod with just my hand supporting the rear of the stock on a cheap folding table that already collapsed once. Final 5 round "break-in group" looked like:
View attachment 6992144
Barrel: Proof Research all-stainless 24", M24 profile, RPR Pre-Fit.
Brake: APA Little Bastard
Installer: Me.
Headspace: set to Minimum +.003" as recommended by Proof.
Just did the 3, clean, 3 clean, 5, clean break in as recommended by Proof Research. The cleaning patches after the final 5 rounds came out looking like:View attachment 6992143
All ammo fired was 6.5CM Prime 130g factory ammo at 50y indoor range, sitting, from a bipod with just my hand supporting the rear of the stock on a cheap folding table that already collapsed once. Final 5 round "break-in group" looked like:
View attachment 6992144
What method did you use to determine the +.003"?
U
Nice looking group! Thanks for the range report! How did the install go? Anything Advice or anything I should know before getting started? Assembled several AR my self and got the tools. But hear the Barrel Nuts on the rpr can be a pia.
Also, have not pulled the rail yet. Does the nut just use a standard crows foot?
Yeah, I thought that was what you were going to say.Cut a piece of .003" feeler gauge and used a bit of grease to stick it to the back of the headspace gauge.
Yeah, I thought that was what you were going to say.
Did they say why go +.003 over the gauge?
Hey guys,
I just sold my Savage 10 BA Stealth in 6.5 CM because I have a ridiculous OCD where I hate rifles that don't prevent me from closing the bolt on an empty magazine. I thought I could get over it and warm up to AICS mags, but it didn't work out. So here's to something new!
I found an RPR Gen 2 in 6mm CM on sale at Bud's for $758 shipped. I've been wanting to try out that caliber and it seemed like a very good deal, so I ordered one today. I'm going to be shooting it (at least initially) with my Athlon 6-24x50 FFP scope, 30mm tube. I know, asbestos suit is on... But it's good enough for my purposes since my range is the longest within a 2 hour drive, and it only goes out to 600 yd. I rarely get the opportunity to shoot further so I've found it to be adequate, especially considering that I'm a lowly E-4 on a limited budget. I'll be able to afford a Vortex Viper eventually...
I'm wanting to lighten the rifle up a little where possible, and I think the stock and handguard may present a good opportunity. I don't like the look or 21oz weight of the Ruger stock. Primary Arms is selling the Luth-AR MBA-2 for $35, and I've read that it's solid. This version without the cheek riser and adjustable LOP would bring the weight of the stock down by about 10oz when compared to the factory setup. Is anyone running a 50mm-class scope with the Gen 2 rail and no cheek riser on their Luth-AR stock? I'm thinking I might be able to get a good cheek weld if I can get away with using medium or low rings. I know the 50mm scope, even without a glare shield, will not clear the Gen 2 handguard with low rings, but more on that below.
I'm working on making a small-diameter carbon fiber handguard for the RPR. The OD is currently slightly under 1.6", and I think it will allow even more clearance for the scope than the RPR Gen 3 handguard. I'm hoping this might give me sufficient clearance to use medium or low rings, and not need a cheek riser. This would save me a few bucks and also shave some weight off the front end to balance the decrease at the rear. Worst case I'll just buy the Luth-AR cheek riser, which will cost $45 and add a couple ounces.
Someday I'll be able to afford a Proof barrel and then we'll really be cookin in the weight department. That's not in the cards now, but maybe it will be by the time I've shot out the factory barrel...
Lastly, does anyone have any idea what the RPR's stock and Gen 2 handguard might be worth if I were to list them for sale brand new?
Thanks!
Steve
I can say I had an AR15 that had a 2” handguard and 50mm objective on the scope and I wasn’t using the cheek riser on the Luth AR stock. However, I also had a flat rail and not the 20 moa the RPR has. I liked the Luth AR stock a lot. I’m not sure what the market is like for the factory RPR gen 2 parts.
I honestly don’t remember. I sold that rifle a couple years ago. Some guys here should be able to tell you what they’re using on the RPR with a 50mm objective thoughThanks a lot for the reply. I'll go ahead and order that stock and give it a try. What height rings were you using?
I’m running 1.25” rings with a 50mm objective on my gen 2 with factory handguard. There is clearance but I would need 1.5” if the handguard had a full length rail on the topView attachment 6993201
Thank you!
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