I aggree that the bolt knob choice is almost always a matter of preference/style.
As far as weak firing pin, the weakness is an issue about the spring, not the pin.
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As far as weak firing pin, the weakness is an issue about the spring, not the pin.
I posted here asking about an Anarchy Outdoors bolt HANDLE and got replies about bolt knobs. Anyway, someone sawed the threads short on mine. The rifle was used and I'm guessing they installed a different bolt knob that needed shorter threads. I wound up getting a factory replacement. Anarchy Outdoors handles are made from a high grade of steel so should give good service. Some have reported wear/problems where the factory bolt handles and firing pin fit together. Seems some of the firing pins are coming unseated from the slot in the bolt handle due to wear. Ruger will fix this but in the meantime you are without a functional rifle. I suppose you could get a spare by having Ruger fit a new complete bolt assy but they may not do this unless yours has been lost, etc. and they will definitely ask why you need this done. If they agree to do it you will have to send in the rifle and they keep repair records by serial number.Sorry if this has already been brought up or asked but 110 pages to read through at work is really tough!Is there sometinhg I am missing on the Bolt handle and knob on the gen 2 RPR? It seems like alot of guys are replacing them and I am wondering if it is really adding anything to the rifle other than personal preference and feel. Also is anyone replacing the firing pins? I am looking at Anarchy Outdoors unless there might be a better option.
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My 15 year old daughter and I competed in a 600 yard match this past Sunday; her first time and my second time in a 600 yard match. I’m proud to say she beat me, handily. It was her first time shooting out past 100 yards. Her grouping is impressive, and her adjustments to feedback was great. I am so amazed what can be done with a factory rifle using factory match loads, and steady hands.
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Will an Anarchy bolt know really close my groups by 4"
I thought I'd share this with brother RPR shooters! I bought 153.5 Bergers for my rpr since I could really hang them out with a 700 bc and found no loading dope so I ladder tested and found with 43.4 sc4831 I could poke five shots in one hole at 120 yd haven't cronograph it yet but I came away happy!
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New to Precision shooting and just bought a used RPR in 6.5CM. I believe its either a Gen 2 or 3 but how can you tell? Is it by SN or something else?
You should be able to tell by the handguard:
I have a Gen2 and the handguard looks like this (note the difference in mounting screws):
Gen 3 looks like this:
Gen3 handguards are hard on the hands with its sharp edges. Otherwise I love mine, but miss my Gen2 handguards.
This is a handhold, typically used in AR style rifles. It might have been used for a barricade stop, but not a good one and too far forward. Frankly, as heavy as an RPR is, a forward hand hold would really only be useful to a very big, very, very strong fellow. Not the same brand but basically the same idea.
Forward Grip
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I have no idea it came on the RPR that I just bought. I just went to Magpul’s website and your correct it is the angled finger grip. Thank you
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I just picked up a rpr in 223 and I was wondering if there is good aftermarket support for them. I know ruger discontinued them a while back. What mag do most of you run?
Ruger factory plastic magazines allow a much longer overall length than the steel Accurate Mags but both work very well. The latch tab on the plastic ones may eventually wear out but so far mine have not. Ruger will repair your rifle if needed. Your .223 has the same basic receiver footprint, lower halves and handguards as the std calibers. However, if you wish to install a Gen 3 Mlok handguard they have a different nut/screw pattern than whatever generation keymod originally came on the .223. Aftermarket cocking pieces from Anarchy Outdoors will work but be sure to specify the older style. Bolt handles, knobs, scope rails, triggers, bolt sleeves and pretty much all other parts are the same as std calibers. If you have issues with primer cratering and/or piercing Ruger will repair/replace the bolt or you can have the pin hole bushed but CCI #41 and Federal Match AR small rifle primers are tough enough to prevent most cratering problems. Muzzle threads are std. 1/2x28. Std AR15 grips will fit but some such as the Sierra Precision will require cutting a very small notch to clear the safety stop. Last but not least, if you want to simplify things you can replace the factory stock assy with an A1 or A2 length AR15 stock and rifle length buffer tube. Magnum calibers require modifications to the buffer tube threads to clearance the cocking piece.
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Thanks. I am pretty sure my firing pin has a bit too much protrusion as I am having a bit of primer cratering but the fit is perfect around the pin. The pin does appear to protrude more than normal. When I have some calipers I'll measure it. The gun sure shoots though. I was getting 3/4 inch groups shooting from a weird contorted Hawkins position in the bed of my truck with my feet up on the cab while shooting uphill. This was with PPU 75 gr match which isn't the best. In a good position I could have shrunk those groups by another .25 at least so I'll take it.
Very nice!
Except . . . ditch that mono pod for a good rear bag and you'll find you'll have much better results.
Yep. I fold it up and have a squeeze bag.Very nice!
Except . . . ditch that mono pod for a good rear bag and you'll find you'll have much better results.
just purchase a RPR in 300 PRC. Looking for any tips in loads to start at. How much jump do the lands like? Had a 6.5cr in the same rifle with normal good performance, but the weight of this rifle and the brake sort of made me want to test it. Thoughts? Also going to try a Seekins havoc in 300prc and see the diff but local Scheels has not received them yet.
Hi, new to the forum and just purchased a RPR .308. Took it out to zero the scope and put about 20 rds through it. Didn't have too much luck zeroing and went back home. Went out a second time after figuring out something with the scope and could not get the bolt to lock down with a round in the chamber. Tried 3 types of ammo but no luck. Went back home and finally figured out the extractor was stuck. Has anyone experienced this?
I've had my .308 RPR Gen2 for some time now and never had any issues with it. When I got my 6.5 PRC RPR, I did have an issue with the extractor that resisted the closing of the bolt. Apparently, there's a new bolt design in the Gen3's and it seems this issue has been more common than before. I complained to Ruger about this along with another issue I had with the poorly cut throat. They had me sent it back to them to inspect and confirm (or not) what I was telling them. They did decide to replace my RPR and sent me a new one. The whole process took ~ 3 months to get the replacement. The new gun works much better, but it's still not really as good as my older RPR is.
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. . . not that I could tell. But there are major changes in the bolt design, particularly with the cocking piece and firing pin. And it does seem to me that the spring for the ejector is quite a bit firmer, but am not sure if that's just because the 6.5 PRC, being a magnum bolt face, requires more than the .308.
I don't have one but may get one if I decide I don't like the factory stock.
Is there any advantage or disadvantage to making the RPR as light as possible? Not sure what could be changed to make it more light. Is there a company that makes parts from titanium?
I have never seen one lightened. I suppose you could get a carbon barrel and a minimalist stock. However, most go heavier especially with a heavier barrel. I will be switching barrels shortly and depending on what fits, will either use a heavy varmint or M24 style and a more aggressive break. Still deciding caliber. On the RPR will probably stay with 6.5. It works and I have a lot invested in that round. MPA will go to the 6’s.
I'm jealous. I looked for a target tool stock and no more available. I wonder if he went out of business
Website. Have not talked to them for a while, but great fellow to work with. Nice Stock! Pine tree Casting ought to buy a license from Target Tool and produce these for the Ruger Custom Shop rifle. A definite improvement.
Target Tool
Curious as to how much hold over you had to use at 600 yds with the creedmor
I know this is an old post but I have to say you are very nice to buy this for your wife- For your wife- yeah right
Been away from "The Hide" for quite some time..
Getting a Zero on my new 300 WM. - NF NXS 5.5-22×56
The weight along with that brake make this thing a pussycat..
My 308 10FP 20"(No brake) in an MDT LSS is a violent lil bish by comparison...
(The Blazer on the table was being fed to wife's Savage 10t .223..)
Getting a Zero on my new 300 WM. - NF NXS 5.5-22×56
The weight along with that brake make this thing a pussycat..
My 308 10FP 20"(No brake) in an MDT LSS is a violent lil bish by comparison...
(The Blazer on the table was being fed to wife's Savage 10t .223..)
Hey guys - I'm brand new to SnipersHide. I joined for this exact same issue, with the exact same gun. Anybody ever get to the bottom of this? I can see where my brass is getting hung up, but I don't even know what the hell this is called. It's just like a feed ramp on a regular barrel, but it's part of the receiver...like a pre-feed...feed ramp. From the looks of it, I just need to bevel this surface and polish it, but wondering if you guys had any advice. Polishing it doesn't look too easy from a tool-approach angle standpoint, so this might need to take a trip to a pro.
Gen II RPR. Issue is more prevalent with nickel plated brass vs pure brass...because the round will just STOP on the bolt's forward stroke. If I run the bolt really fast, I can chamber every time. But if I'm just a little slower, it'll stop. Waiting to hear back from Ruger.
Anyways, thanks guys - nice to meet you.
Mike W.
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I'm using one of those on my 7SAUM rifle, and I put a chunk of steel round bar inside the tube to increase the weight...worked well.
New Proof barrel twisted on yesterday. General middle of the road hand load. Has potential.
What makes this better than the stock stock? Is it the looks or does it have improved functionality?
Tried out a new bullet. Best of the ladder loads......
A couple of questions on the RPR's.
What are owners experiences like with the 338 Lapua's ?
Has anyone re-barreled a 338 Lapua RPR to 338 Norma?
What are owners experiences like with the 338 Lapua's ?
Has anyone re-barreled a 338 Lapua RPR to 338 Norma?
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