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Here is my new RPR in 6mm Creedmoor. Just got the Nightforce ATACR 4-16x50 and Nightforce ultralight rings installed yesterday. Looking forward to sighting it in and start putting it to work here in the desert.
I'm not sure if the gentleman I spoke to was new and unaware of certain policies or if what he said was true. I called Ruger to see if they sold spare bolts in the event a bolt gets lost or somehow damaged and he said that the rifle would need sent in to be factory headspaced. The new bolt would run between $250 and $300. Again, that's the info I got when I called. Please let us know if this is true in the event someone loses a bolt. Lol.
I’ve been reading around that people are removing the spring on the RPR trigger to take poundage away. Is this safe?
I’ve been looking to lighten up my trigger.
I’ve been looking to lighten up my trigger.
People have posted on other forums that they had removed the trigger spring and have not had any issues.
I took mine out, clipped a few coils off and re-installed it. This is one of the best mods you can do IMO.
I did this when I first got my RPR 308 and now have just under 3,800 rounds fired. And at that time I removed the spring I slam tested it to see if it would let go. It never did. So . . . 3,800 rounds and about half as many dry firings with no issues to date. Just be sure to not remove the blade.
Went out and set-up in the BLM and the weather cooperated for a little while. Got a good first group after zero on a 12" plate with match ammo. Need to remember paper targets and a stand next time. I went ahead and purchased a Nikon Black RangeX 4K so I could do a better 100 yard zero in the open desert.
RPR 6.5 Creedmoor
Hornady 147g ELD-Match Factory Loads
5 Rounds @ 100 Yards
50 Deg F
25% Hum
5200 Ft elevation
~5-15mph variable direction wind
Front: Atlas Bipod / Rear: Weibad Range Cube
Folding Chair & Table, Wobbly
Penny fully covered all 5. I was pretty excited by this group, but I'm very new to precision rifles. Been mostly into pistols and infantry type bolt and semi-auto rifles up until recently.
RPR 6.5 Creedmoor
Hornady 147g ELD-Match Factory Loads
5 Rounds @ 100 Yards
50 Deg F
25% Hum
5200 Ft elevation
~5-15mph variable direction wind
Front: Atlas Bipod / Rear: Weibad Range Cube
Folding Chair & Table, Wobbly
Penny fully covered all 5. I was pretty excited by this group, but I'm very new to precision rifles. Been mostly into pistols and infantry type bolt and semi-auto rifles up until recently.
I remember a post some ways back saying the latest generation RPR triggers couldn't be modified in this way? Not sure if that was ever double-checked though...
There is a way to do this and a way not to. Some videos are misleading. What will happen is that the trigger will not fully reset. So you will have to recycle the bolt hard or run the bolt with the muzzle facing down. Otherwise you will have a no fire condition. I would recommend taking the trigger apart and learning the basic operation. Then trimming the main spring slightly and polishing the contact points. Don't just remove springs randomly following yt vids.
They can still be modified. They did change them slightly to improve them. The gen 2 and 3 triggers are not bad for factory except for the side to side wiggle and reset.
Removing the spring completely makes the trigger not reset fully? That is a problem
It actually looks like PVA deletes the barrel nut locking plate with their barrel nut, and they don’t torque theirs to half what I do. Would be cool because with my paper city hanguard I don’t have to time the nut (like I did with the Samson). Only a little for the plate.
https://patriotvalleyarms.com/barrel-nut-wrench-ruger-precision-rifle/
https://patriotvalleyarms.com/barrel-nut-wrench-ruger-precision-rifle/
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I have the RPR GEN3 6.5 creedmoore, and needed to remove the hand guard to realign, and a couple of the screws are stripped. Any advice on good or better replacements, and best advice for removing a tough stripped screw?
You can usually get a replacement at a decent hardware store.
If you mean that the head is stripped, I take a dremel cutting wheel and make a new mark in the head for either a flat head or phillips driver. If the threads themselves are stripped, you might need to drill it out
If you mean that the head is stripped, I take a dremel cutting wheel and make a new mark in the head for either a flat head or phillips driver. If the threads themselves are stripped, you might need to drill it out
So looking at replacing my 308 barrel with a 6.5 Creedmore. Current contenders are bartlein, Krieger, LRI, or proof research barrels. Anyone have recommendations? Been spinning my gears on this for a month or so. As soon as I think I know what I’m gonna order I end up back at square one.
I don't think Bartlein makes a barrel for the RPR . . . yet ???
So, of those others, I like Krieger and I actually just recently dropped one in my RPR. And can't think of anything not to like about it or the customer service.
I was looking at bugholes or Precision firearms for the the bartlien barrel they will both cut and fit tem for the rpr.
I did see the Krieger offers them already cut for the rpr. What is yours chambered in? And how does it shoot?
Thanks I will check them out. Do you know what rifling pattern is standard for them? I saw button or cut as an option.
Talked to the guys at Krieger. I can get Barrel from them in about a week. But if I want 5r from them it’s about a 3 month wait. Guy on the phone suggested 5r vs convential 4 groove was not worth the wait.
Mine is a .308
As I was going though the break in procedure, I fired 175 FGMMs before I start load development. The first 3 shots were touching (at 100 yds), though well off of POA (as I had to find the new zero). As I adjusted for zeroing, the next two shots also touching with the new POA. Found Zero on the next two shots and POI was right on POA and touching. So, I'd say it shoots pretty darn good.
Am still working load development and best grouping/load I've got so far was at .368 in (43.0 gr of Varget). 43.7 & 43.9 gr of IMR 4064 looks promising for the high velocity, which was around 2,765 fps. I'm hoping the next time out I will have found THE right load.
I modified my stock trigger and installed a Timney. The Timney in my rifle is not that much better than the modified stock trigger.
I've got a Timney in my RPR rimfire that I am beta testing, which virtually the same as what would go into the RPR (difference being in minor configuration of the outside and how it fits into the frame). The RPR rimfire trigger is also virtually the same as what's in the RPR. In both those guns I had removed the adjustment spring to bring down the pull to 14 oz and both feel very much the same and they do well for me this way. Having set the Timney trigger down to 12 oz, I find it a definite improvement in it's smoothness and consistency. I feel whether it's "worth it" or not really depends on your application. Shooting long range in competition . . . I'd say YES, it's worth it.
Mine is a .308
As I was going though the break in procedure, I fired 175 FGMMs before I start load development. The first 3 shots were touching (at 100 yds), though well off of POA (as I had to find the new zero). As I adjusted for zeroing, the next two shots also touching with the new POA. Found Zero on the next two shots and POI was right on POA and touching. So, I'd say it shoots pretty darn good.
Am still working load development and best grouping/load I've got so far was at .368 in (43.0 gr of Varget). 43.7 & 43.9 gr of IMR 4064 looks promising for the high velocity, which was around 2,765 fps. I'm hoping the next time out I will have found THE right load.
Awesome, I can live with that accuracy if I am doing my part. Right now I would say on average mine as is shoots .8-.9” groups. I have worked on load development. And chased it and can’t concistently get groups under 3/4 moa. Has a few groups in the .68” range. However, I had a savage before I could consistently hold .65” groups. So I know I am capable on my end to a “degree”. I’m no deadeye Ralph but working on it. Hoping a nice barrel will help me out.
Thanks straight. Is there a better place to get them than anywhere else? Or are they pretty much the same everywhere?
Sometime when searching the internet, you can run across a real good deal on a promotion. So if you can wait and stay aware it can pop up most anywhere. But if that and waiting doesn't feel like a good option, then you might check out these two places:
https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...ecision-rifle-2-stage-triggers-prod96874.aspx
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018189247/timney-rifle-trigger-ruger-precision-rifle-two-stage#
Damn. Good deal. You guys should check out gun broker too. I got my gen 1 308 there for $900
I ordered a couple MDT mags during their black Friday sale. I got them last week and only have cycled dummy rounds thru them. They fit perfect in my 6 creedmoor RPR, and they cycled the dummy rounds fine. I will probably test them this weekend with live rounds at the range and let you know if there are issues.
I cut 3/4 of a coil of at a time until I got down to 1.5# or so. The trigger is very nice now and it passes having the buttstock wacked on the ground and also having the bolt cycled fast and hard. For me, I don't feel like it would be good to have the pull weight less as we shoot all sorts of positions and often have gloves on 1/3+ of the year here. Lighter pull weight might make it to easy to have it go off unintentionally, and also I would be worried about the sear retaining the firing pin back while the rifle is being handled in position. Another thing that seems to have helped the trigger is time; dryfiring and live rounds fired is probably around 3000 trigger pulls.
I just picked up a profit Proof M24 profile barrel, 24" from Stocky's on sale for $436 + shipping. Just got done cleaning it and I'll be screwing it on this week. Got a APA Lil' Bastard on the way as well.
https://www.stockysstocks.com/barre...-stainless-ruger-precision-rifle-barrels.html
After a couple emails back and forth about bullet choices and total headspace recommendations with Proof (prompt responses), I'm confident it will definitely outshoot me...
...but that ain't that hard LOL ?
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Assuming good weather and merely using it for FClass mid range, how would the RPR with a bartlein barrel and upgraded timney trigger compare to an Accuracy International?
Accuracy could be on par but the rpr is still in a completely other class than an ai as far as trigger and bolt throw etc especially the new ai comp trigger.
Just ordered me a 20 inch 308 gen 2 for $805 shipped from CDNN, going to transplant my Ares glass on to it an probably sell my .224. I've wanted one of these since I saw a .223 at the range.
10ring I agree 100%. As soon as I get my scope rings I will marry the scope and rifle in holy matrimony and get to shooting.
I can’t seem to find the thread about the necessary tools for removing a RPR barrel so I’ll just ask it here. I thought there was a tool similar to a geissele reaction rod that went into the barrel to hold it while you cranked on the barrel but that Ruger apparently torques to a bazillion ft/lbs. I can’t find what it is exactly or who makes it. A little help please!
I prefer this over a barrel vice. https://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/action-rod-for-ruger-precision-ruger-american-rifles/
There are two companies selling a reaction rod. Seekins is one and I cannot remember who the other one is.
The RPR trigger is the best factory trigger I have used.
I think the factory trigger is amazing too, but when chasing small holes I find myself putting more pressure on the trigger than I want at 2.5 lbs. I just bought the Timney
I just picked up a Ruger precision rifle in .300WM. I'm going to load up the following:
225gr ELD Hornady bullets
H1000 (75.9g to 77.1g in .3g increments)
Win Brass. 93g h20 capacity
GM215M Primers
Seated .025" from lands (3.621" COAL)
Vortex viper PST gen2 5-25.
I went through the rifle and torqued / loktited rail and handguard fasteners. Torqued receiver to spec as well.
Seems like a very robustly built rifle. Much more stout than the original RPR gen ii. Trigger feels great too. Must be a tight chamber/ headspace since FL resized brass from my Rem700 wouldn't allow bolt to close. New brass no problems.
The latest American rifleman article had it printing .73 MOA average of 15x5 shot groups with 3 different factory ammo so I'm hoping for a little better than that with handloads. Don't know when I'll be able to break it in but looking forward to it .
https://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/2018/12/19/tested-magnum-length-ruger-precision-rifle/
The new rifle:
225gr ELD Hornady bullets
H1000 (75.9g to 77.1g in .3g increments)
Win Brass. 93g h20 capacity
GM215M Primers
Seated .025" from lands (3.621" COAL)
Vortex viper PST gen2 5-25.
I went through the rifle and torqued / loktited rail and handguard fasteners. Torqued receiver to spec as well.
Seems like a very robustly built rifle. Much more stout than the original RPR gen ii. Trigger feels great too. Must be a tight chamber/ headspace since FL resized brass from my Rem700 wouldn't allow bolt to close. New brass no problems.
The latest American rifleman article had it printing .73 MOA average of 15x5 shot groups with 3 different factory ammo so I'm hoping for a little better than that with handloads. Don't know when I'll be able to break it in but looking forward to it .
https://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/2018/12/19/tested-magnum-length-ruger-precision-rifle/
The new rifle:
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Ok so maybe I’m an idiot, but are there any “hunting contour” barrels out there for the RPR?
I wouldn’t mind building a gun with a lighter weight barrel in it, for hunting. Not climbing mountains, sheep hunting, just a little lighter package for shooting some deer and bacon.
I wouldn’t mind building a gun with a lighter weight barrel in it, for hunting. Not climbing mountains, sheep hunting, just a little lighter package for shooting some deer and bacon.
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