Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

I noticed a dramatic difference after installing a Proof pre-fit. With the factory barrel, I was getting just under 1moa groups with handloads. Once I dropped in the Proof barrel, I started seeing sub-half moa. These barrels rock.

Pro tip: when removing the barrel nut, everyone tends to use a breaker bar with an armorer's wrench. In my case, I couldn't get the proper support/angle when applying pressure and it would slip off. I ended up using an impact wrench in the socket port of the armorer's wrench and the nut came off in literally two seconds.

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I went Proof because one of my SWAT snipers has a couple personal rifles in 260 he uses. They were done by Spartan Rifles in San Jose, CA. They have Proof stainless barrels and they are just stupid accurate. I shot them a couple years ago and was blown away at how easy it was to put every round EXACTLY where I wanted to.

That is why I went with Proof... before they were cool LoL.
That's awesome. I'm excited for my new barrel, I'm definitely going to go with the proof. Thx again for the info
 
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That's awesome. I'm excited for my new barrel, I'm definitely going to go with the proof. Thx again for the info

I'm gonna be doing additional load development shooting on Friday. Finalizing my loads for the 147 ELDm and Nosler 130 RDF. I'll post on here what the results are. I never like running near-max loads because I like my 6.5 barrels to last 3500+ rounds.

I've only had this particular barrel mounted for just over 2 months and already have over 400 rounds down the pipe. #pewpew
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Powder charged and ready to seat my ELDm's.... But first.... Graveyard shift LOL.
 
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Next question I'm going to need help with: What is the best bullet BC and cost wise out there for strictly practicing (no living targets) with the 6.5 Creedmoor?

I have heard a lot of good things about the 143 ELD-X for hunting.

Still up in the air about which barrel to get. Need to do some more reading.

Thanks for all the help.
 
Next question I'm going to need help with: What is the best bullet BC and cost wise out there for strictly practicing (no living targets) with the 6.5 Creedmoor?

I have heard a lot of good things about the 143 ELD-X for hunting.

Still up in the air about which barrel to get. Need to do some more reading.

Thanks for all the help.
What distance you planning on shooting?

If you're doing 300 and closer, I had really good shooting with S&B 131 grain ammo which are about 80 dents per round. It is right about 1 MOA at 100 and it's SD's are in the 20's which ain't bad for "budget" factory ammo.

For reloading and just practice....

123 grain Match Monster from MidSouth $0.24 a pop. G1 BC .515..... Oddly similar to a 123 grain MatchKing ;)
 
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What distance you planning on shooting?

Probably 400 most of the time. There is a range that goes out to 2000 an hour away, so I'll also be heading there, but not as often.

I do want the bullet to be a top/near top of the line bullet. Kinda wondering what is the best BC bullet out there with no price cap and then what is an awesome bullet at an affordable price - the 147 ELD-M seems to fit that bill fairly well.

Will the 7.5 twist Kreiger be better suited for the 147 eldm than an 8 twist?
 
Probably 400 most of the time. There is a range that goes out to 2000 an hour away, so I'll also be heading there, but not as often.

I do want the bullet to be a top/near top of the line bullet. Kinda wondering what is the best BC bullet out there with no price cap and then what is an awesome bullet at an affordable price - the 147 ELD-M seems to fit that bill fairly well.

Will the 7.5 twist Kreiger be better suited for the 147 eldm than an 8 twist?
The 147 ELDM is going to me my bullet of choice. I have an 8 twist and getting sub 1/2 MOA groups.
 
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Flat line solids 6.5s will be the top of the top if you want the best of the best. Break out that wallet.

 
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Flat line solids 6.5s will be the top of the top if you want the best of the best. Break out that wallet.


8 mils at 1250?!?!???? Holy fuckkk!

I can push a 147 up to 2900+ with Reloder 17. I wonder what that powder can do for this projectile...... (Mad chemist brain is scheming)
 
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Just purchased a Ruger Precision 6.5 Creedmoor Gen 3.
Have made a few up grades with Magpul PRS Gen3 FDE stock, Magpul MOE + FDE grip, Catalyst Arms RPR Mag Release Extension in FDE .
In addition I added Anarchy Outdoors Titanium Bolt Knob and one of their Titanium Ruger Precision Bolt Shroud w/tool.
The problem I’m having so far is getting the original Ruger handguard nut off to install a Seekins Precision SP3R handguard.
I painted the Seekins Precision in Brownells Aluma Hyde Magpul FDE.
Is an adjustment wrench ? in say 18” going to get that nut off.
I’ve already tried with a 10” wrench and did not have enough torx to get it off.
Does Ruger use any Loctite on that nut?
The original screws holding down the original hand guard were really lose and very easy to remove to get the original hand guard off! No Loctite on those at all.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I used a dead blow hammer to knock my barrel nut loose. Smacked that shit 2-3 times and PRESTO! Changed barrel, set headspace, used deadblow to re-tighten the nut. Done deal.
 
I

Got mine for roughly that price. Good resource!! Thanks for posting! $***!!!!!


From the Guidelines for purchases:

  • Purchases are for personal use only, you may not purchase items for friends and family
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  • Please do not share your Expert Pricing

Might be a good idea to delete that screenshot and edit your post.

I don't know why folks have such a hard time with understanding the part about not sharing ExpertVoice pricing on public forums.

Regardless, it pisses off the vendors and they have been known to pull out of the program over it. EV may also cancel your account if they catch you disclosing prices on a public forum.
 
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From the Guidelines for purchases:



Might be a good idea to delete that screenshot and edit your post.

I don't know why folks have such a hard time with understanding the part about not sharing ExpertVoice pricing on public forums.

Regardless, it pisses off the vendors and they have been known to pull out of the program over it. EV may also cancel your if they catch you disclosing prices on a public forum.

Edited to compensate for my stupidity.

Thanks for advising me to do so.
 
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^ Nice rifle! I went with FDE accessories as well. I just like it. Ruger doesn’t use any thread lock as far as I know. I actually put my receiver in the vice instead of the barrel. I used my smaller 24” breaker bar and it came right off no problem. Super easy. Set it back to 70 ft/lbs. But mine is a gen one when things were a little easier. It seems they torqued the living shit out of things ever since
I received a reply from Ruger Customer Service today, they said "The handguard nuts on both the short action and the magnum are torqued to 50 ft. lbs and they do not have loctite on them. If you cannot remove it please contact us at 336-949-5200 to have an RMA number issued for return and we will be happy to assit you"
What I'm currently trying to do to remove the handguard nut is heating it up and putting Kroil on it for a period of time-10 hrs-will repeat the process tonight one more time and tomorrow will use a 1 3/8" crowfoot wrench and breaker bar 18" to remove it. If that doesn't work then I call Ruger for the RMA number and go that route.
 
I received a reply from Ruger Customer Service today, they said "The handguard nuts on both the short action and the magnum are torqued to 50 ft. lbs and they do not have loctite on them. If you cannot remove it please contact us at 336-949-5200 to have an RMA number issued for return and we will be happy to assit you"
What I'm currently trying to do to remove the handguard nut is heating it up and putting Kroil on it for a period of time-10 hrs-will repeat the process tonight one more time and tomorrow will use a 1 3/8" crowfoot wrench and breaker bar 18" to remove it. If that doesn't work then I call Ruger for the RMA number and go that route.

Try a deadblow hammer. I found it takes that .00001 second of "impact" time versus the much slower application of torque to break the handguard and barrel nuts loose.
 
Shout out for Ruger Customer Service. Just realized Friday that I had a handguard screw missing/lost on my RPR. Contacted them through their website form with my Serial # and asked if they sold replacements, They responded Tuesday saying they are shipping me replacements no/charge. USPS tracking info was emailed to me yesterday :)

In Ruger CS reply:
"Please note these screws are torqued to 25" lbs."

Question:
I torqued everything down when I bought it. Now I will go through it all again, this time with Blue Loctite I guess? I have only used Loctite on scope bases in the past. Any tips on which RPR screws not to use it on?
 
For those of you who absolutely cannot get the barrel nut off or just don’t want to bother, I saw LRI now offers an RPR barrel swap service. I imagine they would do handguards too. Or you can ask your local shop if they can give it a try.
 
Just a quick up date to my problem getting my Ruger Precision hand guard nut off.
A retired Marine and retired police armorer from my department suggested heating up the nut and then applying Kroil and then letting it sit over night.
Just for good measures, I completed the task three times about every eight hours.
A ordered and was awaiting delivery from Home Depot internet two Crowfoot wrench heads in 1 3/8” for the Ruger Headguard nut and 1 1/8” for the Seekins Precision nut.
With both in hand, a 5 pound vise with jell pads, 24” breaker bar and the nut came smoothly off with no effort.
Mission accomplished and new Seekins Precision SP3R installed picture below.
Only item left to add will be a Vortex Viper HS LR 6-24x50 with Vortex(Seekins) rings in 1.45”.
 

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Question to anyone who would know.
Before I mount my scope on this new rifle, does anyone know what the torque setting is on the 20 MOA scope base on the Ruger Precision just in case the screws are lose?
Thanks in advance for your reply.