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I did the trigger pull adjustment spring removal, but it didn't do anything. It actually made things worse, as the trigger release (blade safety) spring would get out of its place and not reset when cycling the bolt. Also taking out the trigger pull adjustment spring makes it very difficult to put back in. The real problem with my gritty and spongy trigger had more to do with the dirty and and poorly forged trigger housing.
I wound up fully disassembling my trigger completely and basically doing a 25 cent trigger job. Every pin, spring and clip, including the safety. Its about 20 pieces. All you need is a flat head screwdriver and a roll pin punch. Two issues: 1. There was so much anti rust or grease/goop inside the trigger that it became gummy and clogged. Even blasting the housing with brake cleaner wont get rid of it because there is no way to drain it. I wound up cleaning the empty housing out with brake cleaner and scooping the goop out with q-tips, toothpicks and dental picks. Finally it was clean. Did the same with all the other parts.
The second issue was the rough forging of the internal parts, especially the inside of the trigger housing. The trigger itself is hardened steel with a polished finish. but the internal housing is very rough and bumpy. I took out the dremel and hit the whole housing with a polishing wheel and some metal polish to smooth everything out. I hit the inside walls of the trigger housing with the brass wire wheel and smoothed and shined it. Reassembled everything and put in some M-Pro7 oil and Tetra grease in the right spots Its like night and day. Smooth as glass and a much crisper and clean break. I've run about 200 rounds through it and it will rival a Timney trigger (saving me 215 bucks). Not that the Ruger factory trigger is that bad to begin with. I did a quick job of it because I was going to the range the next day, but I could do a more thorough job next time. Total time for the first time was about an hour. I could do it the next time in 20 minutes.
I wound up fully disassembling my trigger completely and basically doing a 25 cent trigger job. Every pin, spring and clip, including the safety. Its about 20 pieces. All you need is a flat head screwdriver and a roll pin punch. Two issues: 1. There was so much anti rust or grease/goop inside the trigger that it became gummy and clogged. Even blasting the housing with brake cleaner wont get rid of it because there is no way to drain it. I wound up cleaning the empty housing out with brake cleaner and scooping the goop out with q-tips, toothpicks and dental picks. Finally it was clean. Did the same with all the other parts.
The second issue was the rough forging of the internal parts, especially the inside of the trigger housing. The trigger itself is hardened steel with a polished finish. but the internal housing is very rough and bumpy. I took out the dremel and hit the whole housing with a polishing wheel and some metal polish to smooth everything out. I hit the inside walls of the trigger housing with the brass wire wheel and smoothed and shined it. Reassembled everything and put in some M-Pro7 oil and Tetra grease in the right spots Its like night and day. Smooth as glass and a much crisper and clean break. I've run about 200 rounds through it and it will rival a Timney trigger (saving me 215 bucks). Not that the Ruger factory trigger is that bad to begin with. I did a quick job of it because I was going to the range the next day, but I could do a more thorough job next time. Total time for the first time was about an hour. I could do it the next time in 20 minutes.
Has anyone swapped in a stainless proof research 308 barrel? What are you thoughts? I was thinking about having craddock make a bartlein 24" but the 20" proof has a great prodeal price.
So I just yanked the trigger spring out following the instructions on that video. When I cock the bolt, it doesn't always reset the trigger. Any ideas? If open and close the bolt aggressively, it seems to cock every time.
Just lifting the bolt handle to dry fire doesn't work anymore.
Just lifting the bolt handle to dry fire doesn't work anymore.
I just ran over 90 rounds through it a couple hours ago. No issues of any kind. Can't speak to dry firing.
Curious everyone's thoughts. My 6.5 RPR shoots best with a few rounds down the tube. Not a clean bore but my groups shrink significantly with a warm barrel. I'm talking maybe MOA first 10 shot group down to .5 MOA after shooting 20 or so rounds. Why is this?
I had the same issue. (See my post above). The trigger pull adjustment spring needs to be put back in. But it is very difficult to get the trigger back in. That is what resets the trigger properly.
Which is the more accurate? Ruger Precision rifle 6.5 PRC or the Ruger Hawkeye long distance 6.5 PRC? I want something long-range in this caliber with Ruger not sure which of these I should get for hunting. The Hawkeye Long Dist TARGET rifle has the better barrel...but why call it TARGET? Is that not fur hunting, outdoor weather conditions?
I'm not sure why it's not working for you. I've had zero issues with this mod so far.
I can definitely see how the removal of the spring would cause the problem. The spring serves two purposes. The spring places tension on the trigger which affects the pull before firing. But after firing, the same spring resets the trigger when the bolt is cycled. If there is no spring tension to force the trigger back, the trigger can either remain in the fired position or float between the two positions. Now, how it works flawlessly without the spring is left to smarter people than me.
I'm no gunsmith, but when I disassembled the trigger, it was pretty clear. When I put my spring back in, I just clipped one coil and it lightened it perfectly and I still have the ability to adjust it. I would say that the better mod is to clip a coil and replace the spring back inside. But beware that taking the spring out makes it very difficult to put the trigger back in afterward. I saw the youtube video and the guy says, "if you want to put the spring in, just do this in reverse." But it is not that easy. I think the trigger housing was designed to be assembled with the trigger going in first, not last.
I'm no gunsmith, but when I disassembled the trigger, it was pretty clear. When I put my spring back in, I just clipped one coil and it lightened it perfectly and I still have the ability to adjust it. I would say that the better mod is to clip a coil and replace the spring back inside. But beware that taking the spring out makes it very difficult to put the trigger back in afterward. I saw the youtube video and the guy says, "if you want to put the spring in, just do this in reverse." But it is not that easy. I think the trigger housing was designed to be assembled with the trigger going in first, not last.
Hmmm??? It's kind of a mystery to me why some would have such difficulty in getting the trigger back in. It's been a couple years now since I made this mod to my RPR (removing the spring all together) and at the time it just seemed easy enough. In fact, I had removed and replaced the trigger several times as I experimented then with putting different springs in to see the effects (e.g. using a ball point pen spring). Now, with nearly 5,000 firings without any spring, I haven't had a single issue with the trigger . . . . other than it needing a little cleaning up a couple times to keep it running smooth.
As far as the trigger resetting, my trigger has been resetting just fine without the spring. I haven't had any difference in my trigger from when the spring was in it, as in having it "float" or stay in the fired position. So, I don't see any relationship between the trigger reset and the trigger adjustment spring. If there is a problem with the reset, it seems to me that something else isn't working properly due to the disassembly and reassembly process for removing the spring???
Note, that since I did the same mod with my RPRR, which has essentially the same trigger, it too operates just as with my RPR's trigger and I haven't had any issues with it either.
As far as the trigger resetting, my trigger has been resetting just fine without the spring. I haven't had any difference in my trigger from when the spring was in it, as in having it "float" or stay in the fired position. So, I don't see any relationship between the trigger reset and the trigger adjustment spring. If there is a problem with the reset, it seems to me that something else isn't working properly due to the disassembly and reassembly process for removing the spring???
Note, that since I did the same mod with my RPRR, which has essentially the same trigger, it too operates just as with my RPR's trigger and I haven't had any issues with it either.
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Finally got one of those little gadgets that mounts my phone to my spotting scope and had to share. A little shaky cause it was on the bench I was using. 700, 800 and 1000 yard hits with the RPR with 190 SMK ?
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Looks like it works, but your luck with it is no better than mine.
I was hoping it would work better.
I was hoping it would work better.
This was a really cheap $10 part I got just to try. There are several other models that are more expensive but I don’t know if they work any better
This is too funny. Not only does my RPR behave the same, but I just got back from fishing the Elk, Oldman, St.Marys and Crowsnest.
I had the same problem with my .308 coming close to 3000 rounds. Maybe around 2700 or so. Did three or four Wipe Out treatments on the bore. Problem solved. Had a lot of copper left behind that my regular cleanings just weren’t getting. Not exactly sure that the temp would cause this, but it worked.
IM no pro, but from what I understood from Frank's video on rifle cleaning:
1. there is "good" copper and "bad" copper; clean out the bad copper occasionally, but let some settle in the barrel.
sounds like you may have inadvertently done that, "Not a clean bore, but my ..... "
2. There are not any hard and fast rules per se to rifle cleaning. Some barrels just shoot better when they are a little dirty.
Who knew? but apparently that is the deal. a barrel that is too clean may be stripping out the good copper, and adding to inaccuracy
Same for temp: some barrels shoot better than others when cold, and shoot better when warmed up.
maybe watch franks vid in his video forum.
I have a Gen 1 or 2 RPR in 6.5 CM.
the replacement shroud that Ruger sent me is a piece of shit, it doesn't even fit correctly or snuggly.
Its all janky like a key on a keychain.
That said, I was looking at the aftermarket aluminum shrouds by LRI: Long Rifles Inc for about $60.
Anybody tried them? know about them? good? reliable?
thx
the replacement shroud that Ruger sent me is a piece of shit, it doesn't even fit correctly or snuggly.
Its all janky like a key on a keychain.
That said, I was looking at the aftermarket aluminum shrouds by LRI: Long Rifles Inc for about $60.
Anybody tried them? know about them? good? reliable?
thx
I have one and it fits great. I had it cerakoted by them too in armor black (did the white inlay myself).
Thx buddy, that's all I needed to hear, going to order it now ...
I'm having issues finding a replacement extractor for 6.5 RPR. Checked Brownells, Ruger Store....can anyone suggest an aftermarket or a link where I can buy one please? I can't imagine Ruger doesn't sell a simple extractor I know it must be out there I just have the stoopids and can't find it.
^ I’d go directly to Ruger for that. The entire bolt assembly is listed as one part on their diagram. So you’re looking for a part of a part
Just a little look out for those with the ambi safety from Ruger.
I was shooting benchrest last week and right after a shot, both the safety selector and the retaining screw popped off. Ive never tinkered with it, so it must have been pretty loose from the factory. I never would have known except for the fact that safety landed on top of my foot. And that screw is really small, so I was lucky to see it on the ground. Tightened it up again at the range, but put some blue loctite on it when I got home.
I was shooting benchrest last week and right after a shot, both the safety selector and the retaining screw popped off. Ive never tinkered with it, so it must have been pretty loose from the factory. I never would have known except for the fact that safety landed on top of my foot. And that screw is really small, so I was lucky to see it on the ground. Tightened it up again at the range, but put some blue loctite on it when I got home.
I have one and it fits great. I had it cerakoted by them too in armor black (did the white inlay myself).
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LRI also has the Snipers Hide edition shrowd replacement....
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My factory 223 mags were garbage too. Couldn’t fire 10 rounds without a jam. I picked up some Accuracy International ones and they shoot like a dream.
Been a while since I've been on here. Saturday was my first range day since I had mine Cerakoted. Went just for fun this time around. Next range day, I'll dial in again and get started on tight grouping in hopes of shooting competition next year. Have tons of brass saved up.
morning rpr shooters
I had a gen 1 6.5 when they first came out, then sold it during a time of need...
I just got a rpr in 338 and really enjoy it. I wont be doing hundreds of rounds at a session anymore, but did 60 on my first range trip with it. Target is from 2nd trip to range. 300 yard qualifying group for longer ranges.
I had a gen 1 6.5 when they first came out, then sold it during a time of need...
I just got a rpr in 338 and really enjoy it. I wont be doing hundreds of rounds at a session anymore, but did 60 on my first range trip with it. Target is from 2nd trip to range. 300 yard qualifying group for longer ranges.
Those are nice looking (green) ranges.
In CA, you gotta drive up to a few hours just to find a range over 100 yards, and they look like this: In CA, we get the drought and dead vegetation, followed by big rain storms!
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^ Nice. Found one of the righty wife and lefty me sharing the bench on the 100 line. This keeps a marriage healthy lol
Is it possible to buy new bolts for the rpr? I've shot out my barrel on my gen3 in 6.5 creedmoor, and I kinda want to rebarrel in 223 and turn the rifle into my trainer.
Has anyone done this ?
Has anyone done this ?
Unfortunately, they do not sell the bolts separately. Which is unfortunate because I’ve seen this asked quite a bit.
300PRC is shooting great. Top round in the magazine is tough to chamber but smooth on all the rest. I replaced the ugly brake with a mad scientist.
Damn that's to bad, guess I'll have to think Bout if I want a 308 trainer or sell the rpr for a bolt action 223 of some sort
My lady shot competition in high school so it was like she was back on the range. She was hitting steel at 400 yards like nothing.
Sweeeeeeet. It’s so much easier when your wife is into it too lol. My wife just likes to shoot bench at 100 but she really enjoys it, and likes to shoot something tactical . She’s pretty good and shoots sub moa but is more the type that just enjoys firing it more than where it hits lol. She never touched a firearm before we got together
Gen 2 comes with a muzzle brake, different handguard and aluminum bolt shroud
I still have my original Gen 2 bolt shroud if you're considering buying a Gen 1. If they are interchangeable, you're welcome to it free of charge.
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