Rifle Scopes Stripped Spuhr Screw

BillyNg

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Minuteman
Oct 30, 2009
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Hartsdale, NY
Stripped a Spuhr screw, on the base, not the rings. Icing on top of an already shitty day. Go to Spuhr's website, they got plenty of 'em in stock. Go to checkout, US of A isn't an option. Find a note that for us Yankees, we've got to go to Mile High Shooting. Headed on over there, they've got screws, but not the one I need.

Spent the next 30 minutes searching the dark corners of the Internet looking for these screws. About the throw the entire f'ing rifle in the trash. Anyone know where I can get 5x25mm #20 Torx Spuhr screw?
 
I think you should spend a little more time getting pissed off .

Once that's over contact the MFG and get it replaced.

Reading clearly isn't your specialty ... MFG doesn't handle US customers, said that in the first post.

As far as your jab, here's what you do.

You start saving now for your no-expense-spared dream rifle. 8 years from now after I don't know, about a hundred fights with your wife about this rifle, you go ahead and order the thing. After waiting months for it, spend hundreds more in the following months on a bevy of different factory loads for the thing trying to find something, anything, that will shoot under 1 MOA consistently at any distance. Make sure you spend a few dozen hours pulling things apart looking for defects, screws that have backed out or loosened, or anything at all that looks wrong. Spend hundreds more on a better torque wrench to make sure you've got that part square, and a chrono to help figure out what's going on. Fight with your wife about those purchases too, multiple times. Then pony up for custom ammo from a custom ammo maker. Explain to the wife that 1 year ago, when you said ammo was going to cost $1 a round, that just went up 65% of so. See how she likes that one. Then take your 14 different loads from said custom ammo maker and head off to the range for an entire Saturday, and find out that none of them shoot at all. Then drive an hour home from the range, feeling like crap, and pull things apart again one more time looking for anything, anything at all that might explain why this is happening. And just after you find nothing, strip a goddam screw on your $400 scope mount.

Then come back here and let me know how much time I should spend being pissed. Until then, go scratch.
 
I second jackinfl call up MHSA when they are open and I’m guessing they’ll send you a score free of charge.
As to your rifle, sorry to here of your plight- something doesn’t sound right- can you give us more specifics as to your rifle/ scope combo and how you were testing it?
 
I second jackinfl call up MHSA when they are open and I’m guessing they’ll send you a score free of charge.
As to your rifle, sorry to here of your plight- something doesn’t sound right- can you give us more specifics as to your rifle/ scope combo and how you were testing it?

Much of the earlier loads (prior to today's custom ammo) I tested at 100 yards, prone, rear bag. Rifle is a 20" .308 heavy-palma with 5R rifling on a Impact 737R. Scope is a Leupold Mark 5 HD 5-25 in a Spuhr obviously. Groups are wild. All kinds of vertical and horizontal dispersion. No pattern to any of it. 5-round groups. Trigger is a Triggertech Diamond set at 12oz.

Custom ammo was shot at 300 yards as per ammo supplier's instructions. Range was calm today. Occasionally a 3mph head wind, but if I waited 10 seconds that went away. Took my time. Shot at a slowish pace. About a round every 90 seconds. Kept the barrel warm but never got hot or cold.

Have a bubble level on the scope (not the Spuhr one, that one's pretty useless), so all shots were level. Little chilly today, so had on a jacket and a hoodie; no heartbeat in the scope to worry about through that much clothing. Took my time. 14 loads, 5 round groups, 70 rounds. Out of 70 rounds, thought there was one I might have pulled an inch left, but that group was one of the better ones. Best group of the day was 0.669 MOA, worst was 1.793. 7 of the loads were 175 OTMs, they averaged 1.0257 MOA across all 7 loads. The other 7 loads were 185 Juggernauts that ran a best of 0.929, a worst of 1.793, and an average of 1.2967 MOA. In total, all 14 groups averaged 1.1612 MOA.

Have an email out to the builder who I'm hoping will assist. If I'm lucky, it's me. I hope its me. Couple of guys at the range today at the 300 yard line. One of them was wearing a shooting vest and looked like he knew what he was doing. Was about to ask him if he would violate social distancing and try to put together a group for me, but as I was contemplating asking him, he started packing up to leave. The two other guys that were there at the 300 yard line today looked like they had never seen a firearm before so they were out. One had a plastic AR ... I had never seen that before.

Felt 'on' today. Some days you start shooting and you know its not going to be a good day. That was not today. And this thing is so easy to shoot with that trigger and the brake. I'm not flinching, and my sight picture is steady as a rock before she get sent. Today was between 47 and 54 degrees. Wasn't cold so no shivering, and the mirage wasn't bad.

There's no marks at all on the brake (Area 419 Hellfire) to indicate that anything is touching it. Brake has never been off since I've had the rifle (builder threaded for it and installed it), so i assume the crown is still in good shape. I know how to clean a precision rifle, I've been very gentle. Rig has about 400 rounds through it in total after today. Scope was leveled using the flashlight-through-the-front method in conjunction with a laser-level I pointed at the wall.

Checked the chassis/stock around the barrel for anything that might have gotten lodged in there, nothing, that's clean. Action screws torqued to 65 in-lbs. The 737R has a built-in pic rail, so I don't have to worry about rail screws. Scope mount base screws torqued to 45 in-lbs. Scope cap screws torqued to 15 in-lbs and set with blue Loc-tite.

I have a spreadsheet and a pdf with all of the data I collected today if anyone wants to see it.
 
14 different loads and not one of them was decent?

Depends on how you define decent. 0.669 was the best but I'm betting that's not repeatable. When you shoot 14 groups you're bound to have the stars align for one of them.

This rifle should be capable of .25 MOA if I do my part with the right load. I was hoping it would do .5 MOA with MOST quality match loads (FGMM for instance). We're nowhere near there right now.
 
Much of the earlier loads (prior to today's custom ammo) I tested at 100 yards, prone, rear bag. Rifle is a 20" .308 heavy-palma with 5R rifling on a Impact 737R. Scope is a Leupold Mark 5 HD 5-25 in a Spuhr obviously. Groups are wild. All kinds of vertical and horizontal dispersion. No pattern to any of it. 5-round groups. Trigger is a Triggertech Diamond set at 12oz.

Custom ammo was shot at 300 yards as per ammo supplier's instructions. Range was calm today. Occasionally a 3mph head wind, but if I waited 10 seconds that went away. Took my time. Shot at a slowish pace. About a round every 90 seconds. Kept the barrel warm but never got hot or cold.

Have a bubble level on the scope (not the Spuhr one, that one's pretty useless), so all shots were level. Little chilly today, so had on a jacket and a hoodie; no heartbeat in the scope to worry about through that much clothing. Took my time. 14 loads, 5 round groups, 70 rounds. Out of 70 rounds, thought there was one I might have pulled an inch left, but that group was one of the better ones. Best group of the day was 0.669 MOA, worst was 1.793. 7 of the loads were 175 OTMs, they averaged 1.0257 MOA across all 7 loads. The other 7 loads were 185 Juggernauts that ran a best of 0.929, a worst of 1.793, and an average of 1.2967 MOA. In total, all 14 groups averaged 1.1612 MOA.

Have an email out to the builder who I'm hoping will assist. If I'm lucky, it's me. I hope its me. Couple of guys at the range today at the 300 yard line. One of them was wearing a shooting vest and looked like he knew what he was doing. Was about to ask him if he would violate social distancing and try to put together a group for me, but as I was contemplating asking him, he started packing up to leave. The two other guys that were there at the 300 yard line today looked like they had never seen a firearm before so they were out. One had a plastic AR ... I had never seen that before.

Felt 'on' today. Some days you start shooting and you know its not going to be a good day. That was not today. And this thing is so easy to shoot with that trigger and the brake. I'm not flinching, and my sight picture is steady as a rock before she get sent. Today was between 47 and 54 degrees. Wasn't cold so no shivering, and the mirage wasn't bad.

There's no marks at all on the brake (Area 419 Hellfire) to indicate that anything is touching it. Brake has never been off since I've had the rifle (builder threaded for it and installed it), so i assume the crown is still in good shape. I know how to clean a precision rifle, I've been very gentle. Rig has about 400 rounds through it in total after today. Scope was leveled using the flashlight-through-the-front method in conjunction with a laser-level I pointed at the wall.

Checked the chassis/stock around the barrel for anything that might have gotten lodged in there, nothing, that's clean. Action screws torqued to 65 in-lbs. The 737R has a built-in pic rail, so I don't have to worry about rail screws. Scope mount base screws torqued to 45 in-lbs. Scope cap screws torqued to 15 in-lbs and set with blue Loc-tite.

I have a spreadsheet and a pdf with all of the data I collected today if anyone wants to see it.

Just curious what brand barrel?

MH will get you the screw you need as others have stated
 
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Depends on how you define decent. 0.669 was the best but I'm betting that's not repeatable. When you shoot 14 groups you're bound to have the stars align for one of them.

This rifle should be capable of .25 MOA if I do my part with the right load. I was hoping it would do .5 MOA with MOST quality match loads (FGMM for instance). We're nowhere near there right now.

Any number of possible issues.
Doesn’t make it any easier from frustration standpoint for OP.

Contact MHSA, I’m sure they will help you out with needed screw.

Contact builder, high probability they’ll help resolve issue.
Custom rifle from reputable smith will shoot FGMM at 0.5 MOA or better.

No possible answer to larger question of “why” until Monday after an 8 plus year journey, I’d be a bit spun also.

Tried multiple types of ammo, including custom loaded, test series anmo. Nothing shoots well. Not sounding like shooter issue, more like a barrel issue, scope issue or ???

Sometimes ya gotta vent because there isn’t an immediate answer, had insult added to injury and after 8 years....phuck it.

If throwing away, I’ll dispose of said problem
rifle. I’ll even cover shipping. ?

MHSA - replacement screw
Builder - get some troubleshooting ideas / RMA.
You’ll feel better when find out it is a bad barrel or scope or ???, issue resolved and you get 0.5 MOA with FGMM / Hornady or other $1ish per rd factory ammo.
 
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What is up around here lately....

The FIRST thing I would do is speak to the builder if I had a gun built and was not satisfied with it. Hell I don't even shoot .308 but I recall 45 grains of Varget behind a 175 SMK and your golden.

SECOND thing I would do is get rid of your wife if you have to spend that much time bitching at her. I would not put up with that shit at all griping about guns or ammo. Mine just this week was asking to reload another 1000 rounds of .223 because she is getting scared of the China virus.
 
OP, that sucks. I feel your frustration.
Do you have another known good scope and mount that you can swap and try? Need to try to eliminate possible sources. Could be that the scope is bad.
The the mount was tight, and it sounds like it was, it has to be something else. That thing should shoot.
Heck, my bone stock Savage 308 was shooting about 1/2 MOA after about 70 rounds or so.
 
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Here's something that happened to me a couple of years ago. Have a precision 308 that shot well under MOA with a couple of prior scopes. I bought a new vortex AMG and put it in new Seekins rings. I torqued the ring caps to the suggested 20 in#.

Took the rifle out to zero it and it shot groups 1.5 MOA. Wouldn't get better with proven ammo. I checked the ring cap screws after firing 20+ rds. The ring cap screws loosened a bit.

I called Seekins to ask how tight I could go on the ring caps figuring they might need a bit more tightening than 20 in.#. Seekins said I could go 5-10 in.# higher. I tightened the cap screws to 25 in.#.

Took the rifle back out and shot it. Boom! Groups tightened up to normal. No issue since. Cap screws remain tight, No loosening under firing.

Seemed the scope / ring cap screws needed to settle into the cap threads.

The ring cap screws on the Seekins are larger screws than some others and can take a bit more torque. I don't know how big the cap screws are on a Sphur mount, if you can go a bit tighter on them without any damage.

This worked for me.
 
OP, that sucks. I feel your frustration.
Do you have another known good scope and mount that you can swap and try? Need to try to eliminate possible sources. Could be that the scope is bad.
The the mount was tight, and it sounds like it was, it has to be something else. That thing should shoot.
Heck, my bone stock Savage 308 was shooting about 1/2 MOA after about 70 rounds or so.

I have a Vortex on my son's rifle. That's next to try I guess. I didn't want to screw up his zero, but you're right, I'm out of other options.
 
Here's something that happened to me a couple of years ago. Have a precision 308 that shot well under MOA with a couple of prior scopes. I bought a new vortex AMG and put it in new Seekins rings. I torqued the ring caps to the suggested 20 in#.

Took the rifle out to zero it and it shot groups 1.5 MOA. Wouldn't get better with proven ammo. I checked the ring cap screws after firing 20+ rds. The ring cap screws loosened a bit.

I called Seekins to ask how tight I could go on the ring caps figuring they might need a bit more tightening than 20 in.#. Seekins said I could go 5-10 in.# higher. I tightened the cap screws to 25 in.#.

Took the rifle back out and shot it. Boom! Groups tightened up to normal. No issue since. Cap screws remain tight, No loosening under firing.

Seemed the scope / ring cap screws needed to settle into the cap threads.

The ring cap screws on the Seekins are larger screws than some others and can take a bit more torque. I don't know how big the cap screws are on a Sphur mount, if you can go a bit tighter on them without any damage.

This worked for me.

Thanks for the suggestion. My Mark 5 HD is mounted up SOLID to the rifle. Applying rocking or twisting force with my hand produces nothing at all in terms of wiggle or even the slightest perceived movement. I'll be honest with you, I'm not going to try jacking up the torque on the ring screws. With my luck, I'll either strip out my $450 Spuhr or crush/damage the $3500 scope and I'm already very d$$p into trying to figure out what's wrong. Thanks for the suggestion though, seriously.
 
@BillyNg
Hang in there man. Stressful times right now. Let us know where you are, lots of generous knowledgeable people on this site.

Not saying it's you. But it is always peace of mind to let someone else shoot it too.

Sounds like you have all great components.

I'm in S. Fl on the east coast
 
You need a mentor more than anything right now it sounds.

You can go it your own, but folks that seek out an in person mentor, that has accomplished your shooting goals, and is an active shooter will save themselves $$$ and money.

Is there a competition you can attend in your intended discipline, or one that closely resembles what it is you want do? If so, go there, say hey I'm a new guy, I need help.

Every Pro / Champion I know will
bend over backwards to help new guys out that have the right attitude and work ethic.

Getting guys to troubleshoot rifle/reloading/marksmanship fundamentals via a forum might not be as good use of time as seeking out instruction or mentorship.
 
@BillyNg
What chassis is your rifle in? Didn't see mention of it. Sometimes even chassis that supposedly don't need to be bedded really do to perform @ 100%.

I just recently bedded a Manners PRS2 with mini chassis.........long story, but it shot very well with factory ammo. I'm sure I'd have been chasing my tail if I hadn't caught the issue up front.
 
Good luck in your search for a resolution. I had my heart set on an AI rifle for years before I finally felt like I could spring for one. Luckily, it shoots amazingly and as expected. If I had issues right out the gate, I would be exceedingly agitated as well.

In addition to other suggestions made, I would definitely apply some loctite or other threadlocker to each screw on the Spuhr once you get your replacement. I’ve seen them back out under recoil too many times to skip this.
 
Just a few thoughts for the OP.

1. Mile High will send you replacement screw no charge. Ask me how I know lol

2. Try shooting 10 shot groups. I’ve ruined more good 5 shot groups than I can count chasing that 1/4 moa if I do my part thing. A 3/4” 5 round group can turn into a 3/4” 10 round group with 7/10 shots in a 1/4 or 3/8 group.

Also if you’re shooting past 100 yards things are amplified by the distance. It’s not a linear thing when you factor in the environment and the shooter. Shooting MOA at any distance past 100 yards is solid work as far as I’m concerned.
 
@BillyNg
Hang in there man. Stressful times right now. Let us know where you are, lots of generous knowledgeable people on this site.

Not saying it's you. But it is always peace of mind to let someone else shoot it too.

Sounds like you have all great components.

I'm in S. Fl on the east coast

Problem is finding other shooters. I live 20 miles outside of NYC, it's not like we're overflowing with shooting talent out here. Literally explained to one guy about two months ago how the knobs on his new scope worked and what they were for. Spent 30 minutes explaining what a minute of angle was and explaining the concept of a zero and dope. I wish I was exaggerating.

There's little to no places to stretch out beyond 300 yards unless you're willing to drive quite far, so we don't have a lot of long distance guys with talent. I've been able to personally hold .5 MOA with previous rifles and my son's off-the-shelf Howa 1500 (other than the KRG Bravo it sits in) has no problem holding .8 MOA with Georgia-Arms Canned Heat non-match bulk reloads and me behind the trigger. We'll see though I guess.
 
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@BillyNg i thought they came with a bunch of spare screws in the spuhr box or atleast I’m pretty positive mine did recently. If you don’t get it sorted I can check if I have some sitting around maybe tomorrow night

Thank you, that's a kind gesture. Mine did come with extra cap screws, but no extra base screws. I'll call MHS in the morning and see what's what.
 
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@BillyNg
What chassis is your rifle in? Didn't see mention of it. Sometimes even chassis that supposedly don't need to be bedded really do to perform @ 100%.

I just recently bedded a Manners PRS2 with mini chassis.........long story, but it shot very well with factory ammo. I'm sure I'd have been chasing my tail if I hadn't caught the issue up front.

Manners PRS-1 actually. Can you provide a little more color on what was wrong?
 
Good luck in your search for a resolution. I had my heart set on an AI rifle for years before I finally felt like I could spring for one. Luckily, it shoots amazingly and as expected. If I had issues right out the gate, I would be exceedingly agitated as well.

In addition to other suggestions made, I would definitely apply some loctite or other threadlocker to each screw on the Spuhr once you get your replacement. I’ve seen them back out under recoil too many times to skip this.

I have blue Loc-Tite on the cap screws as per Spuhr's recommendation. I don't have anything on the base screws, but they appear to be holding up just fine. When I'm done with this all and have the thing shooting right, I'll likely Loc-Tite everything just to be safe.
 
Just a few thoughts for the OP.

1. Mile High will send you replacement screw no charge. Ask me how I know lol

2. Try shooting 10 shot groups. I’ve ruined more good 5 shot groups than I can count chasing that 1/4 moa if I do my part thing. A 3/4” 5 round group can turn into a 3/4” 10 round group with 7/10 shots in a 1/4 or 3/8 group.

Also if you’re shooting past 100 yards things are amplified by the distance. It’s not a linear thing when you factor in the environment and the shooter. Shooting MOA at any distance past 100 yards is solid work as far as I’m concerned.

If this thing shot great at 100 then turned to shit at 300, I'd know it was me. But this thing won't shoot at 100 either, at least not what I'm expecting. I've got about 10K rounds of .308 under my belt at 2 and 3 hundred yards. I've got another 50K rounds of .223 at the same distances. I've got enough time that I know when I've pulled something. I can usually call my miss as I'm pulling the trigger. Can I ruin a 5-shot group .. you betcha, with the best of the best probably. But it's not like there are 4, 3, or even 2 shots in a nice little group and then a flier or two or 3. The cardboard looks like someone threw 30-caliber darts at it from 40 feet away, while blindfolded.
 
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How do your other rifles shoot?

No other rifles at this point in time. My youngest son has a rifle, but I don't count that as mine. I'm not a collector. My safe has what I need or what I can use.

H&K VP9 is on my waist right now and is my primary firearm. I shoot about 20K rounds a year through it with lots of dry-fire thrown in as well as a training class or two a year. Interestingly, I took a course with Baer Solutions last year and got a 50%-off coupon for any Leupold product, that was the catalyst to start this build. Have two shotguns, a Mossberg 500 and a Remington 870, both with 28" barrels for busting clays. I have two because I bring friends and family. Everyone loves the "orange mist". Had a .22 rifle, but sold it when my kids grew out of .22s. Decided I want to get back into long-range shooting now that there's a strong outlet for it (PRS and others), and so I have this rifle.

That's it. Have had plenty of rifles over the years: 3 ARs (two 15s, one 10), 1 AK, 2 Remington 700s in .308, a 700 in 300 win-mag, and a lever-action Henry which I bought during that time I watched Quigley Down Under too many times in a month. Other than the overlap of one of the ARs and one of the 700s, I didn't own more than any one of those at any one point in time. Each gun has a purpose, or its gone.

The point is, nothing to compare it to right now other than my son's bolt-action .223 which shoots far better than my rig.
 
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Manners PRS-1 actually. Can you provide a little more color on what was wrong?

Before getting into what my issue was I have 2 questions.
  • Does your PRS-1 have the mini chassis?
  • Did you make sure your recoil lug was in contact with the chassis lug when you torqued the action screws?? If not, even a few thousands gap & 65 inch pounds is not enough (not even close) to prevent the lug from hammering (exaggerated) the chassis lug every shot. I.E. it will fuck up barrel harmonics. The action needs to be pulled back so the lug is in hard contact when the action screws are torqued. Some guys snug the screws and then stand up and bounce gun on the recoil pad to seat it before final torque. My choice would be to use a strap wrapped around top front of pic rail - down behind trigger guard, thus pulling the action down and back.
Like you, I caught the bug for long range precision. I needed wanted a new precision bolt gun. Acctualy I caught it bad (3 more builds in the works, all snipers hide's fault). Pretty funny considering I haven't shot a bolt gun in 15-20 years. Everything has been auto loaders. Slug gun = Benelli SBE with Shaw rifled barrel, Meat rifle = Rem 7400 35 Whelen, Mini 14, Ar 15's, Ar 10, 10/22 etc.

I will try to summarize & will likely start a thread with the longer version, but here goes.

My Manners issue is a Zebra of different stripes (Steyr THB Manners 6.5 Creed). My plan is to try this in production class PRS. Bought it new & before going to the range, I'd planned to pull the barreled action to drill the stock for an arca rail. I noticed the barrel wasn't centered in the barrel channel. It wasn't touching anywhere, just not centered.

What I found was the barrel was in contact with the channel at bottom just in front of the lug. This wasn't letting the action settle all the way down into the V block chassis (that was my theory). No biggie, I just relieved that area & mocked it back up. With the action screws snug, I could still slide the barrel/front of action side to side in the channel = about 1/8" @ front of stock. O my, WTF is going on here?

My understanding of how the mini chassis works is that its suppose to provide 6 points of contact + recoil lug. 2 x V block @ front of action, 2 x V block rear action, 1 x radius bottom rear, 1 x radius bottom front, + recoil lug.

In my case the action was hitting the 3 points of contact at the rear, and none at the front except for the recoil lug and the flat shelf behind my lug. That "shelf" part of the chassis was to high by .0035 holding the action up out of the v block & resulted in all that side to side slop. I wound up milling the shelf on the mini chassis down .040 & bedding recoil lug area with Pro bed 2000 (for like $12 you get everything needed). I now have full chassis contact & the bedding will not allow any for/aft movement.

The test group that came with the rifle was 3 shots .7 MOA with factory Hornady 147 ELD-M & I'm assuming that was a machine or fixture rest. My first (and only) attempt at a group during barrel break in (shots 20-25) was 5 shots .4 MOA @ 100 with Factory 147 ELD-M. That was off a bench with bi-pod, rear bag, and auto loader extrodinare pulling the trigger. Pretty sure I'd flunk the shooter evaluation @ one of Frank's classes (not the safety part).

Based on factory test target, I'm sure I'd have been shooting 1+ MOA 5 shot groups & been very disappointed, had I not caught the problem and fixed it.
 
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I live a short drive from the Spuhr factory. A friend of mine had a screw strip just like you describe and posted a disappointed rant in a Swedish long range shooting Facebook community. The man Spuhr himself replied to my friends post and made sure his customer got a new set of screws and a bunch of freebies and an apology. Mr Spuhr mentioned something about a bunch of out of spec screws that they have been having issues with. I've met him and he's (rightly so) very proud of his product and wary of his customer's satisfaction.

I'm 100% sure that if they had any ability to help you out, they would. I hope their US distributor get back to you in due time.
 
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I am sure mile high will be able to help you.

But if you need for any other reason, I always orders hardware off of McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/92832a451
You do have to buy an entire box which is kind of annoying, but they are fast. Usually 2 days anywhere in the USA. Shipping for something like that is usually $5-7.
 
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Reading clearly isn't your specialty ... MFG doesn't handle US customers, said that in the first post.

As far as your jab, here's what you do.

You start saving now for your no-expense-spared dream rifle. 8 years from now after I don't know, about a hundred fights with your wife about this rifle, you go ahead and order the thing. After waiting months for it, spend hundreds more in the following months on a bevy of different factory loads for the thing trying to find something, anything, that will shoot under 1 MOA consistently at any distance. Make sure you spend a few dozen hours pulling things apart looking for defects, screws that have backed out or loosened, or anything at all that looks wrong. Spend hundreds more on a better torque wrench to make sure you've got that part square, and a chrono to help figure out what's going on. Fight with your wife about those purchases too, multiple times. Then pony up for custom ammo from a custom ammo maker. Explain to the wife that 1 year ago, when you said ammo was going to cost $1 a round, that just went up 65% of so. See how she likes that one. Then take your 14 different loads from said custom ammo maker and head off to the range for an entire Saturday, and find out that none of them shoot at all. Then drive an hour home from the range, feeling like crap, and pull things apart again one more time looking for anything, anything at all that might explain why this is happening. And just after you find nothing, strip a goddam screw on your $400 scope mount.

Then come back here and let me know how much time I should spend being pissed. Until then, go scratch.


Dude going through all that there is no way there can be any enjoyment.

Sell that Motherfucker and make your wife happy.

For short money by a Dicks "Getting away from Guns" ADL Varmint R700 in .308 - $350.

Buy a used chassis/stock here in the PX - $700

Buy a used scope here in the PX and tell them to include rings, make sure it has a mil reticle with as much elevation in mils you can get, who cares if it doesnt track if you can hold - $700

Buy a case of 168 FGMM from @Bdomar - $410

Less than $2200 invested and you will be shooting 1/2 MOA as long as you do your part.

This is supposed to be enjoyable.

Maybe you will find more satisfaction in the "Boating" hobby.
 
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There are actually a TON of extremely skilled shooters in the NYC area...we just tend to avoid idiots...of which there are also a metric buttload. If you are spending all your time at Cherry Ridge or Calverton and spent $3500 for a $2000-2800 scope you likely fall into the latter category.
 
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