Strongest bore cleaner available

Barzor

Private
Minuteman
Sep 5, 2022
19
5
Canada
Hello everybody just want peoples opinion on my issue. So was cleaning my tikka after shooting 40 rounds for the first time. I used wipe out and soaked and also g96 and also clp 2000 foam. Many many patches and also bronze bore brush with bronze core. It made the whole barrel spotless and immaculate. However i noticed there is a circle of crud where bullets comes out the neck of case the carbon ring I believe see pic. I tried scrubbing so much other than spinning the brush on a drill which I do for my cheap rimfire. What chemicals are there that is strong enough to remove this ring.
 

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You need to soak a patch in C4 carbon remover and let it sit on that carbon area for an hour or so. Pull the patch spin a stiff nylon brush with C4 on it in the carbon area and repeat if needed.
 
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I had a neglected barrel that C4 wouldn't do much and that is even after letting it soak for 24 hrs.
After trying several cleaners, I discovered Through Clean.
Through clean and about 50 passes of a nylon brush made it look like new.
Highly recommend the Iosso brushes


I bought mine off Amazon.
 
Thanks for the tips I forgot to mention also tried isso bore paste as well it works awesome but again I want something that does all elbow grease as I’m a bit lazy lol. It’s never like the videos that show cleaning 3-4 patches and it’s gone. If they actually did a real video it would take an hour minimum.
 
I had a neglected barrel that C4 wouldn't do much and that is even after letting it soak for 24 hrs.
After trying several cleaners, I discovered Through Clean.
Through clean and about 50 passes of a nylon brush made it look like new.
Highly recommend the Iosso brushes


I bought mine off Amazon.
I heard really good things about this product and bought it ... just haven't had time to try it out yet.
 
Sorry bad spelling this is what I used works well but want something better. Someone told me and I’ve bought jb bore paste in blue and red and kroil. But I have no clue how to use it. Is the kroil used after the jb blue or red?
 

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Sorry bad spelling this is what I used works well but want something better. Someone told me and I’ve bought jb bore paste in blue and red and kroil. But I have no clue how to use it. Is the kroil used after the jb blue or red?

My understanding is Through Clean is liquefied Iosso paste. Not 100% sure of that.

I tried JB also and I found that Through Clean was a little easier and cleaner.
No having to wrap a patch around a worn brush..sometimes getting them off was a huge PITA.

Kroil is before and during the cleaning process.
Somewhere I read that you use Kroil and let it sit for a while and that helps in the cleaning process since it is a penetrating oil. Then you also want some on the patch brfore applying a JB paste.

Here is what Brownells says about JB...scroll about half way down for the video.
 
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I had a neglected barrel that C4 wouldn't do much and that is even after letting it soak for 24 hrs.
After trying several cleaners, I discovered Through Clean.
Through clean and about 50 passes of a nylon brush made it look like new.
Highly recommend the Iosso brushes


I bought mine off Amazon.
I also use this. I really like it. It’s faster with bronze brushes, I’ve used the Iosso nylon brushes too, but I keep going back to bronze. Haven’t seen any negative affects yet.
 
Sorry bad spelling this is what I used works well but want something better. Someone told me and I’ve bought jb bore paste in blue and red and kroil. But I have no clue how to use it. Is the kroil used after the jb blue or red?

Dude you are going to ruin that barrel before you shoot it out with the way you are “cleaning” it. You are way overdoing it and mixing a bunch of stuff.

I’d never use any abrasive paste in my bores. Not needed. Pick a good solvent and use it. It will eat the carbon and copper. I use Butch’s Bore Shine but others out there. After using the solvent I dry patch and then a couple patches of Kroil and then a couple dry patches and done.

And put the bore scope in the closet. They cause more issues than they fix.
 
Dude you are going to ruin that barrel before you shoot it out with the way you are “cleaning” it. You are way overdoing it and mixing a bunch of stuff.

I’d never use any abrasive paste in my bores. Not needed. Pick a good solvent and use it. It will eat the carbon and copper. I use Butch’s Bore Shine but others out there. After using the solvent I dry patch and then a couple patches of Kroil and then a couple dry patches and done.

And put the bore scope in the closet. They cause more issues than they fix.
If one uses a bore scope, one has to do so in a certain frame of mind. Otherwise, it’ll drive you nuts. I don’t fret over every speck I see. I periodically inspect the bore to make sure I’m staying ahead of carbon buildup in the throat area primarily. I don’t expect it to be totally carbon free. My bore scope has shown me that my Savage Model 12 LRPV has a tendency to copper foul, so I pay attention to that. I think the real key is to stay ahead and not let the stuff build up.
 
I have not tried it, but I've read a handful of other people discuss soaking their barrels in CLR for hours. I've read that if you ever have a serious, really determined carbon ring, about the only way to get rid of it is to soak it in CLR..
 
Thorroclean system with a caliber size larger bronze brush. The 20 back & forth passes will remove the carbon ring while it cleans the bore. Thorroclean is Iosso in a suspension. I spoke to the owner of Iosso who said that they make the solution for Bullet Central who sells it as Thorroclean. If you use straight Iosso you can suspend it in their triple action oil, kroil, CLP, etc. I've seen no ill effects in 5-7 barrels for the past nearly 2yrs. No smell, barrel clean in minutes.

It's a good thing you have a borescope and saw the carbon ring build up.
 
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Thorroclean system with a caliber size larger bronze brush. The 20 back & forth passes will remove the carbon ring while it cleans the bore. Thorroclean is Iosso in a suspension. I spoke to the owner of Iosso who said that they make the solution for Bullet Central who sells it as Thorroclean. If you use straight Iosso you can suspend it in their triple action oil, kroil, CLP, etc. I've seen no ill effects in 5-7 barrels for the past nearly 2yrs. No smell, barrel clean in minutes.

It's a good thing you have a borescope and saw the carbon ring build up.
I havent tried an upsized brush but otherwise I do the same. Will give it a shot.
 
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ThorroClean. Cleaned my match barrel at the end of last year and it was back to looking new in about 10 minutes. Barrel had about 1500 rounds on it.
Did you look through the bore with a bore scope? I have used just about most of the stuff mentioned in this thread. I could get the barrels clean, but to get it looking "new" clean with no carbon in the lands. I have never been able to do.... nor will I waste an hour to keep on scrubbing.
 
Really Really Stupid question, exactly what are you hoping to gain from super Duper cleaning the barrel to within the last parting Carbon? A bullet traveling at 2800 ft/sec won’t even notice it, but some of these chemicals can damage barrels if not completely removed before the next super duper cleaning product is applied. Most of us can clean a barrel in 10 minutes without multiple chemistry degrees and the shot great.
Ok back to our regularly scheduled freak out. Thanks!
 
Did you look through the bore with a bore scope? I have used just about most of the stuff mentioned in this thread. I could get the barrels clean, but to get it looking "new" clean with no carbon in the lands. I have never been able to do.... nor will I waste an hour to keep on scrubbing.
Yes I used a borescope before and after. I was skeptical when a fellow shooter told me about it and how easy it was but he’s a good friend so I decided to give it a try. Glad I did
 
Assuming you are cleaning a rimfire.
For what must be 30 years now I’ve been using Yamaha Combustion Chamber Cleaner because it’s designed to remove carbon. It isn’t plastic safe, and will probably make you have 4 headed lizard babies, but by gosh it’s safe for steels and will clean that bore…
Without a bunch of scrubbing.
If I want the stainless revolver to look brand new, I remove the grips, set in half an empty bleach jug (a plastic that does resist it’s solvent capability), spray it down and lay a rag over top to control the fumes. 24-48 hrs later the gun looks new. It has a low evaporation rate, and I save and strain it through coffee filters to remove particulates.
Good stuff.
 
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Really Really Stupid question, exactly what are you hoping to gain from super Duper cleaning the barrel to within the last parting Carbon? A bullet traveling at 2800 ft/sec won’t even notice it, but some of these chemicals can damage barrels if not completely removed before the next super duper cleaning product is applied. Most of us can clean a barrel in 10 minutes without multiple chemistry degrees and the shot great.
Ok back to our regularly scheduled freak out. Thanks!
It's about returning a barrel to a consistent state so a general idea on round count can be established before precision drops off. Knowing/tracking when that is lets you know to clean before the drop off in precision.
 
Yes I used a borescope before and after. I was skeptical when a fellow shooter told me about it and how easy it was but he’s a good friend so I decided to give it a try. Glad I did
...and whatever is left after a Thorroclean can just stay there! That leads me to the carbon build up vs carbon + heat staining. Some mistake the two and chase their tail trying to remove the staining at the throat to a few inches out.
 
The cleaning philosophy of “ I clean my bore/barrel when it tells me it needs it” interests me. How many rounds and resultant carbon accumulation will one encounter before the barrel speaks up? It just seems to me that that would be a set up for a pretty solid carbon and copper fouling as well as a solid carbon ring.
 
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The cleaning philosophy of “ I clean my bore/barrel when it tells me it needs it” interests me. How many rounds and resultant carbon accumulation will one encounter before the barrel speaks up? It just seems to me that that would be a set up for a pretty solid carbon and copper fouling as well as a solid carbon ring.
I'm at 2200 on my proof/Tikka. No plans to ever clean it. Just shoot it.
 
It might not be the strongest but I've recently started using thorroclean. It gets the job done quickly. I don't scrub until the barrel looks new, I just want to get most of the build up out and clean out the necks. I use nylon brushes that are up one more size and that helps clean out the necks while cleaning the bore.
 
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Does Thorroclean take out copper also?

And sorry but using an abrasive cleaner and brushes larger than bore size just seems to me to be a recipe for disaster. Guess we will see in the long run.
Yes it does remove copper (and carbon equally.)

I used to against abrasives but I'm giving Thorroclean a shot. If I find out that it's wearing out barrels prematurely I'll ditch it. So far I haven't seen anything negative.
 
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Yes it does remove copper (and carbon equally.)

I used to against abrasives but I'm giving Thorroclean a shot. If I find out that it's wearing out barrels prematurely I'll ditch it. So far I haven't seen anything negative.

Will keep an eye on long term results. Definitely post what you find long term.
 
I'm at 2200 on my proof/Tikka. No plans to ever clean it. Just shoot it.
If you’re being serious, by all means, to each his own. The one thing I’ve concluded when it comes to cleaning rifle barrels is that there is absolutely, positively, NO consensus on 1. How to do it . 2. What to use to do it and 3. How often to do it.
 
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Does Thorroclean take out copper also?

And sorry but using an abrasive cleaner and brushes larger than bore size just seems to me to be a recipe for disaster. Guess we will see in the long run.
It does. Several barrels with 15-20 cleanings ave on each with Thorroclean and no ill effects so far. The bristles of an overbore brush just bend over more.
 
If you’re being serious, by all means, to each his own. The one thing I’ve concluded when it comes to cleaning rifle barrels is that there is absolutely, positively, NO consensus on 1. How to do it . 2. What to use to do it and 3. How often to do it.
I am, I just don't see a benefit for me. Rifle shoots 3/4 moa to 1 moa 10 round groups, so I just live my life and don't worry about cleaning. I don't know enough to guess which magic solution to run through X times per X rounds for X caliber, so I just have always skipped it and it seems just fine.
 
And push an abrasive that much harder into the bore and where I am more concerned the muzzle area.
Rob, it really is a good product. I have used it with nylon brushes and also bronze brushes. Not overbore sized, I use correct size brushes. You get it clean faster with a bronze brush and I’ve seen no ill effects (I clean every 200-300 rounds). But it may be a more conservative approach to use nylon. It seems to be a mild abrasive. It strips copper and fouling. It’s a 2 part system with thorro flush. I’ve tried many solvents etc but man I really like this stuff. I do use a bore scope so as to not overdo it, so far so good.
 
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Sorry bad spelling this is what I used works well but want something better. Someone told me and I’ve bought jb bore paste in blue and red and kroil. But I have no clue how to use it. Is the kroil used after the jb blue or red?
Please do not use the JB red paste....ask @Frank Green of Bartlein barrels.

As for how to use a mild abrasive like JB Compound (blue), I also follow Mr. Green's advise and its worked well for me.

I've used the JB blue and Rem 40X which is even more mild. I don't use abrasives often but have done so...mostly when I see carbon building up just past where the case neck ends.

Get a Parker Hale style jag (the ones you wrap a patch around like rolling a cigarette), rub some paste into a patch (I dampen it first with Kroil oil...just makes it a bit easier to handle), wrap the patch around the PH jag and run it back and forth 10-15 times without exiting the muzzle, and then short stroke up by the throat.


If all you are interested in is that carbon just past where the neck of the cartridge ends, just do the short stoke. You will have to back your bore guide up a bit after getting the jag/patch into the bore so as to get to that area.

And one other thing you said that caught my attention...."It made the whole barrel spotless and immaculate". Just my view but you aren't doing yourself any favors by always scrubbing it to bare metal.

Best of luck
 
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Ok will take ur advice and put away the teslong seem to go crazy when you see stuff left. I guess just like reloading I over do and think things. Good advice it will probably save me money also in long run.


Borescopes, like calipers, only belong in the hands of “pros”.

I found when reloading that I had misread my calipers once so I threw them in the trash and went back to using my trusty Stanley 25’ rule.

Understanding how to use and interpret results from a precision “tool” is a complete waste of time.

Follow me, for more tips to simplify your life. 😳

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