The Fix from Q

Copycat job, 18” barrel, 30” case, my pouches for the mags will be here tomorrow and i need to find my sico pouch, but i dig it.
 

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I may be overthinking this, but how are you (those with 16” short barrel) attaching your chronograph (if it’s a magnetospeed)? I had mine cinched down just around the rail, but it was a pain and kept sliding. The only other option I figured was buying the Q-SERT rail and mounting my chronic to that, but alas I’m reluctant to keep spending on small parts if I don’t have to. Anyone have any insight?
 
Copycat job, 18” barrel, 30” case, my pouches for the mags will be here tomorrow and i need to find my sico pouch, but i dig it.

I don’t have my Ultra 5 yet, but I’d like to make a sleeve/pouches for it that will get sewn or velcro’d Into the spot above the barrel and in front of the scope. Can think of a few ways to do it. Then the outer pouch can be mags only.
 
I may be overthinking this, but how are you (those with 16” short barrel) attaching your chronograph (if it’s a magnetospeed)? I had mine cinched down just around the rail, but it was a pain and kept sliding. The only other option I figured was buying the Q-SERT rail and mounting my chronic to that, but alas I’m reluctant to keep spending on small parts if I don’t have to. Anyone have any insight?

Mount it to the top rail upside down. Depending on your scope you may be able to see around it. If not, you can at least get your data.
 
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I don’t have my Ultra 5 yet, but I’d like to make a sleeve/pouches for it that will get sewn or velcro’d Into the spot above the barrel and in front of the scope. Can think of a few ways to do it. Then the outer pouch can be mags only.
Yeah, thats 3 stacked mags and would love to double that. Suppressor pouch could get sewn in up by the barrel, above the scope. It would be tight, but fit. The bipod takes up a lot of room, but necessary to me.

As pictured i did not have my 419 brake on it, but itll fit in the bag with it on.
 
I don’t have my Ultra 5 yet, but I’d like to make a sleeve/pouches for it that will get sewn or velcro’d Into the spot above the barrel and in front of the scope. Can think of a few ways to do it. Then the outer pouch can be mags only.

I am connecting my MagnetoSpeed via the pic rail attachment when I don't use a silencer. You should have received two pic rail sections with your rifle if you bought it new. This is really the only way that I can see this working out and you not shooting the tip of your bayonet off.

Edit: OOPS, replied to wrong one.
 
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I missed it by that much, said there was one and added to cart and sold out. Oh well, I don't really need it, i just wanted it to match my blue accents.

Really just need to get a 22" B/T barrel and I should be done since that will make 3 barrels.
 
Looks like I’ll swap it to someone who wants blue then whenever the black ones come out. I guess I’ll see what I get and buy another one if needed. Between barrels, can, scope and all the other bits I’ve got more in this rifle than 2 of my machine guns or m82a1, so what’s another $125 among friends.
 
Looks like I’ll swap it to someone who wants blue then whenever the black ones come out. I guess I’ll see what I get and buy another one if needed. Between barrels, can, scope and all the other bits I’ve got more in this rifle than 2 of my machine guns or m82a1, so what’s another $125 among friends.
I'll swap you I think - I wanted a blue accent on my 6.5. I'll keep an eye for when the black ones come back.
 
Took it out today to try the Hornady 178 ELDX and was very disappointed. I shot The Fix and my M5 and both rifles didnt like it. I did a group with and without the silencer.
 

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I love mine, picked up a 24” 308 proof research barrel from Tag Firearms and it’s an absolute tack driver. Haven’t had an issue with magazines and feeding from sr-25 pmags. I did just send in the bolt for the heavy lift issue. I took the bolt apart and there was some galling caused by the bolt handle on the bolt shroud. Wish I had taken pics before I sent it. Other than that it’s a great rifle
Did it look like this?
Fix bolt shroud.jpg
 
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Put down on a 16 inch 6.5 Creedmoor proof barrel from Tag firearms. Does anyone have a 20 inch proof barrel? Wondering how much velocity I should expect to loose from the 22 inch Green Mountain barrel. I am getting pretty good velocities from it (~2780 from the 143 ELDX and 2700 from the 147 ELDMs).
 
Put down on a 16 inch 6.5 Creedmoor proof barrel from Tag firearms. Does anyone have a 20 inch proof barrel? Wondering how much velocity I should expect to loose from the 22 inch Green Mountain barrel. I am getting pretty good velocities from it (~2780 from the 143 ELDX and 2700 from the 147 ELDMs).
I have an 18” and with berger 130 factory ammo i am at 2759~ before break in. I would be willing to bet 2700 with a 16” or more with berger.

Same rifle shoots hornady American gunner 140’s at 2559 before break in. Just a fyi.
 
Put down on a 16 inch 6.5 Creedmoor proof barrel from Tag firearms. Does anyone have a 20 inch proof barrel? Wondering how much velocity I should expect to loose from the 22 inch Green Mountain barrel. I am getting pretty good velocities from it (~2780 from the 143 ELDX and 2700 from the 147 ELDMs).

I’m getting 2620 with 147’s and RL16. Barrel is 17”
 
I get 2500 FPS with the precision hunter factory ammo 143gr eldx from my 16 inch barrel. It’s pretty much 25 FPS per inch from my experience.
I have a 20” proof barrel on my Fix. I just installed it less than a week ago. I have had accuracy issues with it and I can’t put a finger on the problem. As far as I can tell, the barrel isn’t touching the handguard. I was shooting sub moa groups all day long with the heavier GM barrel (also 20”). I have had some large ranges in muzzle velocity with the proof barrel also. I have 69 rounds through it so far. I did weigh both the proof and GM 20” barrels and got 2lbs 10 oz and 3 lbs 7.3 oz respectively. I’m about ready to throw that GM barrel back on there. Any thoughts on the accuracy issue?
 
I have a 20” proof barrel on my Fix. I just installed it less than a week ago. I have had accuracy issues with it and I can’t put a finger on the problem. As far as I can tell, the barrel isn’t touching the handguard. I was shooting sub moa groups all day long with the heavier GM barrel (also 20”). I have had some large ranges in muzzle velocity with the proof barrel also. I have 69 rounds through it so far. I did weigh both the proof and GM 20” barrels and got 2lbs 10 oz and 3 lbs 7.3 oz respectively. I’m about ready to throw that GM barrel back on there. Any thoughts on the accuracy issue?

I had a similar challenge with my 24" Proof. I added a Muzzle Brake and switched to 140gr ELD M and it now shoots .5 MOA. The 140gr Barnes Match Burners still shoot like crap. It appears to be very ammo sensitive. Max published Creedmoor OAL and 41.5gr H4350 did it for me.
 
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Got my other, other barrel back from Twisted Barrels. I’m disappointed in the dimples. I was hoping they were going to be deeper for more of a gain in weight savings.
Looks cool ?
I’ll get weight tonight.
39E2B685-3C35-477F-B6CA-371394F4E978.jpeg
 
GM barrel that Dave Tooley cut down to 20”. Sub moa all day long with 143 eldx. I had issues with an after market barrel but the manufacturer is taking it back to look at it.
 

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the RMR is in .17 HMR shoots tighter at 100 than the 6.5 but some of that is due to the diameter of the holes Except for the grip angle, ergo are very similar... I will correct the grip.. The Swarovski X5 is not intended to be a permanent fixture on that rifle; the elk hammer is done for the season and it came off that lol... I wanted the same magnification range...
 
Put down on a 16 inch 6.5 Creedmoor proof barrel from Tag firearms. Does anyone have a 20 inch proof barrel? Wondering how much velocity I should expect to loose from the 22 inch Green Mountain barrel. I am getting pretty good velocities from it (~2780 from the 143 ELDX and 2700 from the 147 ELDMs).
I have a 20” proof barrel on my 6.5 Fix. I had issues with the barrel but chrono’d 143 Eldx’s at about 2640 fps. Stuck casings, some large fluctuations in muzzle veloc., 2” group sizes at 100. Put the GM 20” back on and back to sub moa and hitting out at long distance as well as no more feeding issues.
 
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Put down on a 16 inch 6.5 Creedmoor proof barrel from Tag firearms. Does anyone have a 20 inch proof barrel? Wondering how much velocity I should expect to loose from the 22 inch Green Mountain barrel. I am getting pretty good velocities from it (~2780 from the 143 ELDX and 2700 from the 147 ELDMs).
I’m getting 2477 from the factory 143 ELDX out of a 16” proof.
 
What kind of groups are you getting with the proof barrel? I’m thinking I must have bought a lemon... It’s on it’s way back to Proof. They were very easy to talk to and return the barrel for correcting/ replacement
Groups are 1/2 MOA when I’m punching paper at 100 if I do my part.
It sure what the math is but I was out yesterday testing the impact shift at 800 on a 23.5” plate using an Ultra 7 on and then shooting with just the CB brake and never missed the plate. Not sure on the math but at 800 got to be a sub MOA effort I’d say.

This barrel was purchased here from a member and according to original purchaser was spun up by D. I have a little NF 2.5-10 in some ultralight rings and the short top rail so this would be on the lighter side for these rifles as I have it set up. Second Fix has a NF ATACR 4-16 w steel GM barrel chopped to 18. I really prefer the glass on this setup and the extra weight.

Im by no means an expert shooter but these guns are a bit harder for me to use or just really require lots of concentration to shoot well. They are lightweight and using a rear bag with the rear stock and the pistol grip angle is a bit different than what I’m used to. These guns will highlight any flaws you may have. They also have lots of screws on rail, barrel etc that may affect things. Both of mine shoot about the same if I pay attention.
 
Groups are 1/2 MOA when I’m punching paper at 100 if I do my part.
It sure what the math is but I was out yesterday testing the impact shift at 800 on a 23.5” plate using an Ultra 7 on and then shooting with just the CB brake and never missed the plate. Not sure on the math but at 800 got to be a sub MOA effort I’d say.

This barrel was purchased here from a member and according to original purchaser was spun up by D. I have a little NF 2.5-10 in some ultralight rings and the short top rail so this would be on the lighter side for these rifles as I have it set up. Second Fix has a NF ATACR 4-16 w steel GM barrel chopped to 18. I really prefer the glass on this setup and the extra weight.

Im by no means an expert shooter but these guns are a bit harder for me to use or just really require lots of concentration to shoot well. They are lightweight and using a rear bag with the rear stock and the pistol grip angle is a bit different than what I’m used to. These guns will highlight any flaws you may have. They also have lots of screws on rail, barrel etc that may affect things. Both of mine shoot about the same if I pay attention.

I know what you mean by harder to shoot. Still, with the heavy profile 20” GM barrel and 143 eld x’s, that rifle is sub moa all day. With the 140 American gunners, the groups open up closer to 1 moa. The Proof barrel had stuck casings, bullets were catching on the lugs while being cycled into the chamber... It’s 13 oz lighter with the 20” Proof however. I’m hoping it comes back from Proof as a winner this time. I’m glad you are liking the 6.5 in 16”. I’m thinking about having Dave Tooley cut the GM barrel down to that.
 

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Sounds like something is wrong there. That Proof I had was chambered by Dave Tooley and has always worked well for me. I’m guessing Proof will take care of you. Post up on how this turns out for you. I’m looking at to get a longer 6CM carbon proof and apparently they are the only ones with barrel extensions so I’ll be curious to see how this turns out.
 
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I think, once i go proof(next year?) ill just get a blank and have my barrel extension removed from my current barrel and have my smith spin it up.

It shoots pretty good, maybe hand loads would produce better groups(i know they would) but i am mostly trying to cut weight. 18” barrel i have now is a lil chunky although fluted.

Not sure if ill stay 18” or go 16” but 18” has given me pretty decent velocity to take a deer/elk at 800 yards, if i were so inclined. Too bad I didn’t even get drawn this year ?
 
Q guys is the bottle rocket the only way to go as a thread protector for the cherry bomb? Going to loan my rifle to a buddy and his kid with no can....is there anything else or go with bottle rocket? thanks