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Getting legs now, then we can remove the old running gear
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Maggie’s The Welding and Metalworking Thread
- Thread starter bogeybrown
- Start date
Back inside.
Getting legs now, then we can remove the old running gear
Didn't weld it but drew it up and bent it. Gonna hold my solar panel infront of the boat storage.
Added some support to the stand my lathe sits on. Originally it was just bolted through the 2x10's. I wanted to add some support to keep the bed from twisting.
Used my dynasty 210 and some 5/32 SA85 rods. And a good mixed drink.
Used my dynasty 210 and some 5/32 SA85 rods. And a good mixed drink.
Unfortunately the sun hasn't came out since I finished it....
Mazak 1850 V II after being relocated to another facility.
The top graph shows .1mm (.004") error over the 3m length in the side to side direction (XX) We are shooting for considerably less.
My normal job is as a machinist, my additional duty is to inspect installs.
When they fail inspection its been up to me to help them get it right. There is a bit of a language barrier occasionally.
The top graph shows .1mm (.004") error over the 3m length in the side to side direction (XX) We are shooting for considerably less.
My normal job is as a machinist, my additional duty is to inspect installs.
When they fail inspection its been up to me to help them get it right. There is a bit of a language barrier occasionally.
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Sometimes they aren't the smallest.
Ist pic is Waldrich Coberg in Germany. The second is a Pama from Italy. Some times you have to be a contortionist to reach, the last one is a multi spindle that kicked out parts every 11 seconds give or take.
Ist pic is Waldrich Coberg in Germany. The second is a Pama from Italy. Some times you have to be a contortionist to reach, the last one is a multi spindle that kicked out parts every 11 seconds give or take.
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I aint much of a torch welder but I am pretty handy with a hammer and anvil
Finally got the mill set up for reconditioning 6L80E transmission front pumps. The bellhousings on these are the front half of the vane pump. New bellhousings were on national back order last year thanks to Brandon's antics. When the OEM torque converters eventually start coming apart internally, the debris comes back through the aluminum pump housings and scars them up pretty good. Most of them clean up with just a .010" or less cut. The scarring gets cut out at the bottom of the pocket first. The second cut is on the top deck to restore the rotor pocket depth for a .001"-.002" rotor side clearance. The third cut as the pic shows is the same amount removed off the rim as it took in the bottom of the pocket so that geartrain endplay remains the same as original.
The bellhousing gets set up on a rotary table 2 different times because complete remachining requires 2 separate centerlines of rotation. The setup fixtures are just a lathe test bar coming up out the center of the rotary table, and 2 centering pucks. One puck that centers the vane pump outer slide pocket, and the one in the picture that centers on the converter bushing bore.
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Any Rust 911 users? https://www.rust911.com/
Tried it on a whim a few months ago and was surprised at how well it worked. Much cheaper than Evapo-Rust, etc and is concentrated so 1 gal gets you 17 mixed and works faster/better/longer life than others. Haven't tried to test it but assume it's a mild acid, maybe citric, but not much detail available about it.
Tried it on a whim a few months ago and was surprised at how well it worked. Much cheaper than Evapo-Rust, etc and is concentrated so 1 gal gets you 17 mixed and works faster/better/longer life than others. Haven't tried to test it but assume it's a mild acid, maybe citric, but not much detail available about it.
I keep finding myself in these situations. I've got just about as much cut out of that 150amp rig as you can get. And it's still too big.
I believe I would have to be getting set up for a 20 series water cooled torch with a flexible head for those tight spots. Kudos to you for sure in all those challenging positions. See if this CK Worldwide flex loc water cooled 250A torch would be of interest to you: https://www.ckworldwide.com/products/flex-loc-250-water-cooled-torch
I absolutely love my Dynasty 210 for its portability and power. I find that setting it up for pulsing at about .7 sec intervals with a 25% background amperage helps to keep heat buildup minimized in the work and in an air cooled torch. I run a stubby consumable kit with my 17 series flex loc air cooled torch it that lets me run series 9/20 gas lens and consumables for those tight spots.
I always seem to run into porosity issues with the really small torch parts. We don't exactly weld in very controlled environments. Water cooled would be nice but setting it up in the environments I work in would be a pain. I've seen them on big boiler jobs but on these heaters you just don't see it.
Rig in the pic is a 17 series flex head thats been chopped up. I'll have to post some pics of my different setups that we use in these places.
That is some impressive TIG work especially in such a confined space. Put myself though college as a welder working on a large ranch then in the oil fields in northern NM. Back then the only thing we used was stick and oxy/acetylene. Didn't weld for may years after college but got the bug again after needing to make some fixtures for my home shop. Picked up a good MIG machine and was intrigued by TIG so bought and traded several machines and now using a Fronius 230I. Being self taught on TIG has been a challenge but after lots of practice gotten to the point where I can consistently run a decent bead.
Is this something I'd want to soak a s/b 350 in, or better to find a place that does the 'hot-tank'?
Probably not unless it was completely degreased first. If so, it should work fine other than the large volume you would need. I did a small cast iron transmission housing yesterday that was pretty bad and the results after about 4 hrs were great. Of course knocked off all loose rust w/ wire brush first but many nooks and crannies I couldn't get to.
This is an ugly one. Id matches but the od is way different. Bead and hot in the first pic, capped out in the last one.
So I wanted a wrap handle for my saw but stihl is mighty proud of them. About $160 plus shipping. The husqvarna equivalent runs about $50. Wtf stihl. I'll probably still order one. Maybe. In the meantime I've got some 3/4 aluminum pipe and a bandsaw and a welding machine.
Dig that fixture lol. Vise grips and tie wire.
Now to figure out how to weld it to the existing handle without completely smoking the rubber.
Wrap it with a wet rag maybe?
Dig that fixture lol. Vise grips and tie wire.
Now to figure out how to weld it to the existing handle without completely smoking the rubber.
Wrap it with a wet rag maybe?
Doubt I'll be buying the factory handlebar. Pretty happy with how the hone grown version came out. It's probably a little heavier but it's not like the saw wants to tump over sitting there.
Guess it's time to rely on the wisdom of this bunch.
After close to 50 years of hitting grounding holes and gullies the axle on my hay take just broke. Of course its unobtanium new.
Going by the parts manual it's a piece of 1-1/4 x 70 round stock. Everything appears to attach by through pin or set screw.
Welding isn't a good option because it is in a high stress location that needs to be straight and smooth to allow "gear box" to slide and engage.
Any suggestions.
After close to 50 years of hitting grounding holes and gullies the axle on my hay take just broke. Of course its unobtanium new.
Going by the parts manual it's a piece of 1-1/4 x 70 round stock. Everything appears to attach by through pin or set screw.
Welding isn't a good option because it is in a high stress location that needs to be straight and smooth to allow "gear box" to slide and engage.
Any suggestions.
Take it to a machine shop and have them make you a new one. They should be able to take the measurements of the features, source the material and copy it.
And takes years to master... You are doing great!
If you want an introduction to my engraver in Orange, VT... He is a master as is his son... he always has time to show an aspiring engraver some pointers. You aren't far from him, probably. Be glad to meet you there any time. I love going to his shop to drink coffee and shoot the breeze. He just finished my Capstick Rifle... so I need to go see him and bring him some money!
Cheers,
Sirhr
Just a piece of round stock 1¼x70" long ? What all attaches to it ?
If you've got a steel supply somewhere close you can probably source that pretty easy. I got 4' of 1⅛" last week for $25 to make cat2 tractor pins.
Shoot us a pic if you can.
Might as well drop this in here too.
It's a custom BlackJack "skinner" knife in 52100 ball bearing tool steel.
She's from the 80's....the sheath should tell you the age.
I took the blade out to 2000 grit and then white jewelers rouge to polish her out, tossed the laminated wood handle and made a new one out of cocobolo (shit is not cheap).
It will shave you, very easily.....I have honestly shaved with it on campouts when hunting.
I'll have to grab her and take some assembled pics.
It's better than anything you can buy off the shelf these days....BlackJack did some nice shit.
It's a custom BlackJack "skinner" knife in 52100 ball bearing tool steel.
She's from the 80's....the sheath should tell you the age.
I took the blade out to 2000 grit and then white jewelers rouge to polish her out, tossed the laminated wood handle and made a new one out of cocobolo (shit is not cheap).
It will shave you, very easily.....I have honestly shaved with it on campouts when hunting.
I'll have to grab her and take some assembled pics.
It's better than anything you can buy off the shelf these days....BlackJack did some nice shit.
I tried....too damn shiny to get a decent pic.
Looks like I have to polish out the brass fingerguard again too....it doesn't like whatever they tanned the leather with.
Looks like I have to polish out the brass fingerguard again too....it doesn't like whatever they tanned the leather with.
Working on a heavy buffer for a large frame ar that has been problems since day one.
Yeah I could get one from slash but I had a piece of roundstock and a lathe so why not turn my own ?
Here's the front end. That smaller section will fit in the back of the carrier. Supposed to be anti tilt. I can always turn it off later if I don't like it. If nothing else it's more weight.
Drilling out the back end for the weights. Started with a 1/2" drill finished with a 9/16"
Made a pretty clean hole.
Light cut to clean up the od. The second cut I cut down to the finished od for the main body.
Finished major od.
Light cut here to finish the minor od on the tail end. I left it heavy on the front end for now. Again, I can always turn it off later. The tail is the same length as my car-xh from slash.
Test fitting the Tubbs spring. Fits nicely. Not much shoulder where the spring grabs. I left as much on the body as I could.
Shined it up with some emry cloth and tried the spring on it again. It was pretty until I scuffed it up with the spring.
Have to locate and drill the hole for the rubber buffer in the end but that will be tomorrow's job. I've got to go to bed.
This will let me get three tungsten weights in it instead of the 2 in the carbine version. I cannibalized my car-xh and pws buffers for the weights. A5 tube came from lmt today. Hopefully have it all together tomorrow.
Yeah I could get one from slash but I had a piece of roundstock and a lathe so why not turn my own ?
Here's the front end. That smaller section will fit in the back of the carrier. Supposed to be anti tilt. I can always turn it off later if I don't like it. If nothing else it's more weight.
Drilling out the back end for the weights. Started with a 1/2" drill finished with a 9/16"
Made a pretty clean hole.
Light cut to clean up the od. The second cut I cut down to the finished od for the main body.
Finished major od.
Light cut here to finish the minor od on the tail end. I left it heavy on the front end for now. Again, I can always turn it off later. The tail is the same length as my car-xh from slash.
Test fitting the Tubbs spring. Fits nicely. Not much shoulder where the spring grabs. I left as much on the body as I could.
Shined it up with some emry cloth and tried the spring on it again. It was pretty until I scuffed it up with the spring.
Have to locate and drill the hole for the rubber buffer in the end but that will be tomorrow's job. I've got to go to bed.
This will let me get three tungsten weights in it instead of the 2 in the carbine version. I cannibalized my car-xh and pws buffers for the weights. A5 tube came from lmt today. Hopefully have it all together tomorrow.
My old Miller digital is dead what is the choice in helmets these days? Anybody running the Lincoln viking with built in LED light?
I currently have a Miller that's a few years old. I'll have to go look what model it is. My previous Miller had the grind button on the outside which was awesome. The current one doesn't which really sucks. Last one died after falling 20', should have had a lanyard on it.
Have a couple of different hoods in my shop. Use a Miller Digital Infinity for stick and MIG and Optrel for TIG. The CLT lenses in the Optrel are amazing. The Optrel is very light with the downside being they are somewhat fragile and wouldn't advise them for a scenario where they get knocked around.
Lincoln hoods are the deal. I have 3 of them.
Miller digital infinity is a great hood, their CUT mode is amazing for doing torch work. They are super huge and heavy though.
People dig the esab hood but it dosnt fit my head right. Optrels are $$$ and not that much better then the lincoln hood for the money.
For the money I'd go with the Lincoln 3350 in what ever style you like or the black one. Best hood for the money in my opinion.
Miller digital infinity is a great hood, their CUT mode is amazing for doing torch work. They are super huge and heavy though.
People dig the esab hood but it dosnt fit my head right. Optrels are $$$ and not that much better then the lincoln hood for the money.
For the money I'd go with the Lincoln 3350 in what ever style you like or the black one. Best hood for the money in my opinion.
I have a couple Miller Elite hoods that I bought back around 2010, and a 3m Speedglass that the wife picked up for 20$ at a yard sale around the same timeframe.
The Miller hoods are great, but the Speedglass is my favorite. The batteries last forever, the autodark settings and function work a little better. It has both tig and cut functions. They're worth a look.
I have three torches that need to be repaired. I can take them to the local Airgas dudes but results have been less than spectacular in the past. Anyone know of a true refurb shop? My AO is full of shade tree guys that don't know oxygen from acetylene evidently.
Finished weight 9.59oz! If this doesn't slow it down nothing will lol.
I can vouch for Cameron Welding, they have several shops, but all are in California.
I'd find a few local welders and ask them (if you're not in Cali).
I've always used Miller helmets, they just work well for me and have tons of addons like custom headbands and the like.
Never had luck with ESAB.....every one I've tried didn't work, and it wasn't dead batteries....dunno.
I have a distaste for Lincoln....they sell them at WalMart fer chrissakes.
I did try a digital from Harbor Freight once, and it surprisingly worked just fine, nothing special, but it was fully functional and I can't think of anything particularly bad to say about it.
The Vulcan brand ant HF is surprisingly good. I have students that lobe they hoods.
Miller's work great. I've been grabbing my digital infinity a lot lately. But i love the blue Clearview lense the new Lincolns
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