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Getting legs now, then we can remove the old running gear
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What's that Thing?
Appears to be a Volkswagon "Thing" type 181/182.What's that Thing?
Huh, whoda thunk?Appears to be a Volkswagon "Thing" type 181/182.
Damn.I aint much of a torch welder but I am pretty handy with a hammer and anvil
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I believe I would have to be getting set up for a 20 series water cooled torch with a flexible head for those tight spots. Kudos to you for sure in all those challenging positions. See if this CK Worldwide flex loc water cooled 250A torch would be of interest to you: https://www.ckworldwide.com/products/flex-loc-250-water-cooled-torchI keep finding myself in these situations. I've got just about as much cut out of that 150amp rig as you can get. And it's still too big.
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I always seem to run into porosity issues with the really small torch parts. We don't exactly weld in very controlled environments. Water cooled would be nice but setting it up in the environments I work in would be a pain. I've seen them on big boiler jobs but on these heaters you just don't see it.I believe I would have to be getting set up for a 20 series water cooled torch with a flexible head for those tight spots. Kudos to you for sure in all those challenging positions. See if this CK Worldwide flex loc water cooled 250A torch would be of interest to you: https://www.ckworldwide.com/products/flex-loc-250-water-cooled-torch
I absolutely love my Dynasty 210 for its portability and power. I find that setting it up for pulsing at about .7 sec intervals with a 25% background amperage helps to keep heat buildup minimized in the work and for an air cooled torch. I run a stubby consumable kit with my 17 series flex loc air cooled torch it that lets me run series 9/20 gas lens and consumables for those tight spots.
I believe I would have to be getting set up for a 20 series water cooled torch with a flexible head for those tight spots. Kudos to you for sure in all those challenging positions. See if this CK Worldwide flex loc water cooled 250A torch would be of interest to you: https://www.ckworldwide.com/products/flex-loc-250-water-cooled-torch
I absolutely love my Dynasty 210 for its portability and power. I find that setting it up for pulsing at about .7 sec intervals with a 25% background amperage helps to keep heat buildup minimized in the work and in an air cooled torch. I run a stubby consumable kit with my 17 series flex loc air cooled torch it that lets me run series 9/20 gas lens and consumables for those tight spo
That is some impressive TIG work especially in such a confined space. Put myself though college as a welder working on a large ranch then in the oil fields in northern NM. Back then the only thing we used was stick and oxy/acetylene. Didn't weld for may years after college but got the bug again after needing to make some fixtures for my home shop. Picked up a good MIG machine and was intrigued by TIG so bought and traded several machines and now using a Fronius 230I. Being self taught on TIG has been a challenge but after lots of practice gotten to the point where I can consistently run a decent bead.I keep finding myself in these situations. I've got just about as much cut out of that 150amp rig as you can get. And it's still too big.
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This one was a while back. 20" 2¼ chrome, 2½" wall. Took three shifts to weld out. We were supposed to fill/cap with stick but the rods were no good. Got porosity like mad so we ended up going tig all the way out!
This job I had a miller big blue 500. I'm starting to prefer the big blues to the Lincoln vantage or rangers because the miller's will give you everything they have on lift arc tig. The lincolns max out about 255 on the tig setting. I had the big blue sitting comfortably at 335 amps on this one. About half way out in the pics.
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Is this something I'd want to soak a s/b 350 in, or better to find a place that does the 'hot-tank'?Any Rust 911 users? https://www.rust911.com/
Tried it on a whim a few months ago and was surprised at how well it worked. Much cheaper than Evapo-Rust, etc and is concentrated so 1 gal gets you 17 mixed and works faster/better/longer life than others. Haven't tried to test it but assume it's a mild acid, maybe citric, but not much detail available about it.
Probably not unless it was completely degreased first. If so, it should work fine other than the large volume you would need. I did a small cast iron transmission housing yesterday that was pretty bad and the results after about 4 hrs were great. Of course knocked off all loose rust w/ wire brush first but many nooks and crannies I couldn't get to.Is this something I'd want to soak a s/b 350 in, or better to find a place that does the 'hot-tank'?
What's the tooling like ?Mt first few practice pieces teaching myself metal engraving while waiting on my ball vise to show upView attachment 7876593
....Incase you were wondering why full engraving on a handgun is $4000+....it's because this shit is fucking hard......
Making headway!well ive managed to engrave something that i am not 100% ashamed of....
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still a lot of practice left to go before i try something valuable....baby steps....
Take it to a machine shop and have them make you a new one. They should be able to take the measurements of the features, source the material and copy it.Guess it's time to rely on the wisdom of this bunch.
After close to 50 years of hitting grounding holes and gullies the axle on my hay take just broke. Of course its unobtanium new.
Going by the parts manual it's a piece of 1-1/4 x 70 round stock. Everything appears to attach by through pin or set screw.
Welding isn't a good option because it is in a high stress location that needs to be straight and smooth to allow "gear box" to slide and engage.
Any suggestions.
And takes years to master... You are doing great!Mt first few practice pieces teaching myself metal engraving while waiting on my ball vise to show upView attachment 7876593
....Incase you were wondering why full engraving on a handgun is $4000+....it's because this shit is fucking hard......
Just a piece of round stock 1¼x70" long ? What all attaches to it ?Guess it's time to rely on the wisdom of this bunch.
After close to 50 years of hitting grounding holes and gullies the axle on my hay take just broke. Of course its unobtanium new.
Going by the parts manual it's a piece of 1-1/4 x 70 round stock. Everything appears to attach by through pin or set screw.
Welding isn't a good option because it is in a high stress location that needs to be straight and smooth to allow "gear box" to slide and engage.
Any suggestions.
That's not bad at all.
That's a huge improvement so far! I'm hoping to get back engraving when my wrist hopefully gets fixed. Either that or I just need to learn with my right hand.Definitely starting to get more comfortable with the tools..
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The peacock took around 2 hrs and I was starting to get fatigued towards the tail( and it shows)....should've definitely taken a break.
And my most recent attempt at scroll.
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I currently have a Miller that's a few years old. I'll have to go look what model it is. My previous Miller had the grind button on the outside which was awesome. The current one doesn't which really sucks. Last one died after falling 20', should have had a lanyard on it.My old Miller digital is dead what is the choice in helmets these days? Anybody running the Lincoln viking with built in LED light?
Have a couple of different hoods in my shop. Use a Miller Digital Infinity for stick and MIG and Optrel for TIG. The CLT lenses in the Optrel are amazing. The Optrel is very light with the downside being they are somewhat fragile and wouldn't advise them for a scenario where they get knocked around.My old Miller digital is dead what is the choice in helmets these days? Anybody running the Lincoln viking with built in LED light?
My old Miller digital is dead what is the choice in helmets these days? Anybody running the Lincoln viking with built in LED light?
I can vouch for Cameron Welding, they have several shops, but all are in California.I have three torches that need to be repaired. I can take them to the local Airgas dudes but results have been less than spectacular in the past. Anyone know of a true refurb shop? My AO is full of shade tree guys that don't know oxygen from acetylene evidently.
The Vulcan brand ant HF is surprisingly good. I have students that lobe they hoods.I can vouch for Cameron Welding, they have several shops, but all are in California.
I'd find a few local welders and ask them (if you're not in Cali).
I've always used Miller helmets, they just work well for me and have tons of addons like custom headbands and the like.
Never had luck with ESAB.....every one I've tried didn't work, and it wasn't dead batteries....dunno.
I have a distaste for Lincoln....they sell them at WalMart fer chrissakes.
I did try a digital from Harbor Freight once, and it surprisingly worked just fine, nothing special, but it was fully functional and I can't think of anything particularly bad to say about it.