Tikka T1X

@Eoddave27,

That's a real bummer that there wasn't enough interest here! Thanks for working on the project though.

Hopefully, they (or someone else) will see the market and offer barrels. I guess the good news is that the lack of response is due to Tikka's quality barrels.

As I put in the post somewhere up above, for me it's a weight thing - I want a bit more. If no else offers a Tikka T1X bull barrel, I'll have my local gunsmith build one up from a quality 10/22 bull or a quality blank.

Thanks again, Dave.

John

It’s a weight thing for me too. I’m planning to order a barrel in the next week or so and have my gunsmith fit it for me. I’m still not sure what I want though. I want to make sure I get a good barrel but there are a lot of quality 10/22 barrels out there that you don’t have to wait 6-8 months on.
 
So most of the parts arrived yesterday. Slow day at the office today (I'm self employed with NO employees), so I installed them - really just missing the one flush cup with a nut for a hollow synthetic stock. It's in the mail, but not delivered yet.

Pic of the Tikka T1X 22LR trainer with her bigger sister a Remington 700 Tactical in a Manners MCS-2A clone.

4" sunshade is already a bit much - we'll see the usefulness at the range. Vortex Viper PST 3-15x50 on the Remington, Vortex Viper PST G2 5-25x50 (with the sunshade) on the Tikka (my thinking is that 22 holes are harder to see at 250 yards). :)

I'm already in the midst of building my JP Rifles JP-22 trainer as a sub for my AR-10 (Armalite AR3083GN13 in 308). Vortex PST 3-15x50 has been on my AR-10, along with a 45 degree Trijicon RMR. Thinking of an Athalon Midas Tac 6-24x50 for the JP-22 build. My gun budget is just about busted with the (3) recent rifle builds, hence the Athalon.

I know many bash the Vortex scopes. From my perspective (and budget) Vortex scopes are a steal and are MUCH better than anything I've ever owned previously. Don't know personally about the Athalon but on paper it appears almost a clone of my Vortex Viper PST 5-25x50.

Fun will be shooting them both this coming Sunday!

John

View attachment 7130740

I believe you got your scopes mixed up. Those are Gen 1 PST’s. I think they are 4-16 and 6-24 power.
 
The Sako/Tikka section is the only good section over there. Assholes everywhere else.

From what I have seen I’m not really interested in posting over at RFC. It kind of seems like if you don’t agree with everything the cool kids say there everyone piles on. That happens everywhere so to extent but I have heard about that happening a lot there. If I can’t find the interest here I’ll just make it happen another way.
 
From what I have seen I’m not really interested in posting over at RFC. It kind of seems like if you don’t agree with everything the cool kids say there everyone piles on. That happens everywhere so to extent but I have heard about that happening a lot there. If I can’t find the interest here I’ll just make it happen another way.
Good luck with your barrel, I want it see it all done. The few I've seen with new barrels look great. Even with the barrel swap and stock swap I don't think your in the voodoo price range yet. Is that true?
 
First lot of CCI SV shot like this. Haven't been able to repeat since, got close with wolf match extra but at 4x the cost ehh.

What are you guys having good luck with?
 

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First lot of CCI SV shot like this. Haven't been able to repeat since, got close with wolf match extra but at 4x the cost ehh.

What are you guys having good luck with?


If you read through this thread you will see that folks are having good luck with SK +, SK RM, SK Pistol, CCI SV and Wolf Match Target. These of course are all around $8-$9/box or less.
 
Well I'm focked. I was setting up my rifle and getting it ready for tomorrow and I did a dry fire and the firing pin broke. Half of it fell out of the magazine well when I ran the bolt. I haven't a clue where to get a firing pin for a Tikka T1x on this short of notice.

Anyone have any ideas?
 
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Well I'm focked. I was setting up my rifle and getting it ready for tomorrow and I did a dry fire and the firing pin broke. Half of it fell out of the magazine well when I ran the bolt. I haven't a clue where to get a firing pin for a Tikka T1x on this short of notice.

Anyone have any ideas?
Damn that SUCKS. This makes me nervous about an accidental dry fire. Your not the first person I've heard this happening to.
 
Yeah you’ll have to send that in for repair likely. I doubt they will send you just the firing pin
I wish you could just get the pin, I wouldn't mind having an extra

I just ordered the assembly. I don't think I'm going to waste my time w/ Tikka/Beretta over this.

My 10-22 doesn't accept a bi-pod and there's no simple way to make that happen tonight. My MP15-22 is ready to go but I'm not thrilled with it's accuracy.

Think I'll bring both and make the decision when I get there.
 
Thanks, I'll check my lots and maybe tuck the good stuff away. Still have a bunch of SK, Eley and Lapua to test. I shall report back ?

It was a little breezy, but I still had good results here and there. Keep in mind I am fairly new to this, and have a lot to improve upon in my techniques etc.

I shot the following:

Eley Contact
CCI SV
Fiocchi 320
SK Rifle
SK Pistol
SK Standard Plus
Lapua Center-X
Lapua Polar Biathilon
CCI SV Magic Lot

Here are the best cherry picked groups ...
 

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It was a little breezy, but I still had good results here and there. Keep in mind I am fairly new to this, and have a lot to improve upon in my techniques etc.

I shot the following:

Eley Contact
CCI SV
Fiocchi 320
SK Rifle
SK Pistol
SK Standard Plus
Lapua Center-X
Lapua Polar Biathilon
CCI SV Magic Lot

Here are the best cherry picked groups ...
Groups look good! I've heard great reports from polar biathlon, it's just on the expensive side.
 
Just Chuck shot great. He hit the antelope at 2XX yards, which was ¼ scale. Translating to nearly a 1000 yard .308 hit!

I won last place!

IMG_0343.jpeg




This is what I ended up shooting. I had to put the scope on and sight it in at the match. It's a better shooter than me.

IMG_0344.jpeg
 
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Chuck,

I know it's a bit late. I'm working on some business docs this AM and am leaving Evergreen ~9:30/9:45a. If you'd like, I'll bring my Tikka bolt to the shoot this AM. Bring your Tikka!

John

John - Nice to meet you - hope you can make the September shoot.

Just Chuck shot great. He hit the antelope at 2XX yards, which was ¼ scale. Translating to nearly a 1000 yard .308 hit!

I won last place!

View attachment 7131931



This is what I ended up shooting. I had to put the scope on and sight it in at the match. It's a better shooter than me.

View attachment 7131932

You did real well for a last minute rifle change and no bipod. SK std + was a nice score, too. You should have T1X back operational by September....may have mine back too. But my 10/22 did not disappoint me at all today.
 
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None of you will probably care about this but I finally got out to test the 17 HMR T1X. This is not a target rifle or a trainer. Just plinking and pest control.

Trijicon MRO on a DIP rail.
View attachment 7130666

Fired these two groups for zeroing with federal TNT ammo The box said 2550fps, but these six shots averaged 2700 with 40 ES and 16 SD. Functions flawlessly, and I’m very happy with it.View attachment 7130656
whats the distance?
 
John - Nice to meet you - hope you can make the September shoot.

Pleasure to meet you and the group there yesterday too. Love to do the September shoot. Please keep me/us informed as to the dates.

Any chance of getting the stage list prior to arriving - or does everyone get them when they show up at the match?
_____________

Tikka shot great at its first day at the range too! Zeroed at 50 yards with match ammo and I’ll remove another zero stop shim tomorrow at the office to be able to dial for shorter ranges. Should receive both the lighter trigger spring and the last flush cup for the stock next week.

Only put ~150 rounds through it as I was chronographing multiple 22LR & .308 loads. FWIW, my new Magnetospeed chrono is awesome!

Chronographed CCI Subsonic (grouping sucked - but it may have been me on a new rifle) and Aguila Rifle Match. I have data on both if anyone is interested.

Aguila 1-holed at 25 yards, pushed out to just over 1/2 inch at 50, and held just under an inch at 100 yards.

Lighter trigger will help, but the swirling winds at BCGC were a factor with a few flyers. One minute wind was at 12 o’clock, next minute it was at 6 o’clock. Benefit of a high pressure system moving through the mountains I guess.

Total fun day today. Next time I just get to shoot. :)

John
 
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Hey guys, just a heads up. I am currently working with someone on 3D printing a spare magazine holder for the tikka. I’m going to send him the side profile of my Bravo to make the holder match the step along with one of my magazines. I’m sure he will also offer a basic flat sided version for other stocks too. Stay tuned. Hopefully we will have something in a few weeks.
 
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Hey guys, just a heads up. I am currently working with someone on 3D printing a spare magazine holder for the tikka. I’m going to send him the side profile of my Bravo to make the holder match the step along with ne of my magazines. I’m sure he will also offer a basic flat sided version for other stocks too. Stay tuned. Hopefully we will have something in a few weeks.
Sounds like a great idea!
 
I’ve been in the mode of building/acquiring 22 LR trainers for all of my full caliber rifles. Yes, I already reload, but 22 LR is a cheap trainer sub that I can economically shoot a lot more of than full caliber rounds.

I’ve been thinking a lot about the KRG Bravo as a replacement stock for my Tikka T1X today and over the weekend. Initially, that was my plan when I bought the Tikka T1X as a 308 trainer in 22 LR. For me, the Tikka stock is a bit too bendy, much too short for my 6’1” frame, and even with the extra Tikka parts, it just doesn’t fit me right at my size. If I was shorter, had shorter arms or didn’t weigh 240, it might be fine. I’m not, and it doesn’t. Oh well.

I currently run an AR platform for my semi auto’s (308 only), a XLR Element and a Manners on my bolt guns. The 308 was in the Manners (clone) and the 6.5 in the XLR. FWIW/BTW, my next trainer build is a JP-22 SuperMatch as a trainer for my AR 308. Black Dog magazines are already on order and I already have an AR lower on hand with a a Luth AR buttstock. I just need to let my wallet recover before I go there.

Last Sunday when I was sighting in and setting up the Tikka for the first time, there was a KRG Bravo at the range. Ergos are similar to the Manners - close but no cigar. Which means I f I’m consistent with my philosophy around 22LR trainers being the same as my larger rifles, I was in a bit of a quandary. Buy 2x KRG Bravo chassis/stocks for my 308 & Tikka, buy another Manners, or buy another XLR Element.

Today was really slow at the office, so after my morning meetings, I put the 6.5 back in the Manners and the 308 in the XLR. Boy howdy, I really do love the XLR Element chassis. It just fits me better. The Manners is a better carry (hunting) platform as it’s a bit more comfy than the hard surfaces on the Element. But in tactical match style shoots, the XLR really shines.

It really took some soul searching., changing actions/barrels into each platform that I already owned and poring over each vendor’s website. There was a lot of indecision on the decision around which path to proceed.

So... this afternoon I called XLR Industries and ordered another Element with a Tac2 buttstock for the Tikka. Chassis is in stock, but they were machining more trigger guards today and then they’ll then all need to be anodized. Matt at XLR says it’ll be ~2 weeks before it is in my hot little hands.

Don’t get me wrong, I was really set on a Bravo for my Tikka. For the price, the Bravo is good. A bit too much plastic for my tastes, but it’s a solid choice. However, it isn’t the quality and it’s not as solid as a McMillan, Manners, XLR, etc. and the lower price reflects the differences between the Bravo and its higher priced brethren.

So, if anyone is looking for a Tikka stock with a bipod pic rail with a flush cup on the rail, the Tikka OD Green pistol grip, Victor cheek rest and fatter OD Green beaver tail forearm, and a flush cup installed on the buttstock, (all available on the cheap) reach out.

I’ll have one available in a couple weeks...

John
 
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I recently picked up a t1x.
This being my first tikkka and not having gotten to shoot her yet I have a few questions. I have or have had lots of rimfire bolt action rifles from savages to vudoos as 40x. My thinking was getting a couple t1x and building one for the stock class, and open class and maybe a match to a t3x completion rifle.
The main appeal to me was the the bolt throw and higher quality I have always heard from tikka/sako.
So my questions

1) the action really doesn’t lock open on an empty magazine? Are there different mags that lock open?

2) when the bolt is closed it has a tight lock however cycling the bolt is very sloppy and lose. To the point if you apply any pressure other then straight back and forward it gets rough.
I pulled the bolt apart and cleaned and re oiled it, I throughly cleaned the action thinking there maybe some rough machining marks in side but I didn’t find any. The inside of the action was all pretty nice. I am just curious if anyone else has had similar experiences .
3) the trigger is just awful. I have adjusted it as much as possible. I do prefer a two stage trigger. I have adjusted the weight as light as I can to the point there is no preload on the trigger shoe and it just rattles.
Any advice on a replacement 2 stage trigger?

4) And lastly being a long long time AI shooter and having no experience with KRG or MPA chassis. I am looking at goingwith either a bravo or the X-ray or an MPA. I am curious what are people experiences? Is there one clear advantage to another? I have always been interested in the krg but no one can argue about the MPA setup for completion!

Thank you for any advice!
 
@Just Chuck, yep, I get it. It doesn't count unless there are proof pics. I definitely will post them when the XLR chassis arrives. I'll keep shooting the tupperware Tikka stock and my 308/XLR until it does. :)

THANK YOU for the Green Mill COF link. I must have missed it. I look forward to attending and will look for the Green Mill post for the September shoot.

If the September Green Mill match is on Saturday like the others, I'll have some good practice in before the BCGC Sunday shoot on 9/15. That Sunday, I'll be at Buffalo Creek Gun Club (BCGC) in Bailey, for their 2-Gun shoot with my XLR .308 & 9mm STI.

That said, if you know the date for the September/October/November shoots, please post it either here or like you did in the upcoming matches section and I'll put it/them on my calendar.

John
 
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I recently picked up a t1x.

Congratulations and welcome to Tikka world!

1) the action really doesn’t lock open on an empty magazine? Are there different mags that lock open?

Mine doesn't and most bolt actions don't lock open on an open mag - at least I've never had one that did. Semi's, yes. Bolt's no.

2) when the bolt is closed it has a tight lock however cycling the bolt is very sloppy and lose. To the point if you apply any pressure other then straight back and forward it gets rough.
I pulled the bolt apart and cleaned and re oiled it, I throughly cleaned the action thinking there maybe some rough machining marks in side but I didn’t find any. The inside of the action was all pretty nice. I am just curious if anyone else has had similar experiences .

Yep, mine is similar and is relatively new too. Thought that there might be some rough machining edges on the rear but I haven't broken out my stone or emery paper yet. I even tried greasing the bolt to determine the bearing surfaces and there weren't many. Still may break out the stone/paper as it seems most of the bolt drag is in the rear of the receiver. FWIW, I only have a few hundred rounds through my Tikka. Others will need to chime in to let us both know if the bolt smooths out over time.

3) the trigger is just awful. I have adjusted it as much as possible. I do prefer a two stage trigger. I have adjusted the weight as light as I can to the point there is no preload on the trigger shoe and it just rattles.
Any advice on a replacement 2 stage trigger?

Just about any Tikka trigger should work (so I've read). Pick then call the MFGR to confirm. As for triggers, mine's pretty good - no creep and it's crisp. But I don't have any 2 stage triggers on any of my guns and am a 1911 guy so that's how I like my rifle triggers too.

4) And lastly being a long long time AI shooter and having no experience with KRG or MPA chassis. I am looking at goingwith either a bravo or the X-ray or an MPA. I am curious what are people experiences? Is there one clear advantage to another? I have always been interested in the krg but no one can argue about the MPA setup for completion!

A guy had a Bravo at the range the other day. Pretty nice, but I ended up going with an XLR Element (see my thinking up above as for why). If you're shooting only 22's it may not make a difference. If you're building up trainers for your centerfire rifles, IMHO I'd be biased towards the centerfire chassis (or style of centerfire chassis) as determining what type of stock/chassis you spring for. But that's just me.

Hope this helps - but remember that I'm a Tikka beginner too.

John
 
The only bolt gun that holds open after an empty mag is the RPR and maybe the RPRR that I'm aware of. I do admit, this would be a nice feature.

I also was a bit disappointed in the lack of butter smoothness cycling the bolt compared to my Tac A1. It has smoothed out after a few thousand rounds and I frankly never notice while actually shooting. In particularly under time pressures.

I've heard good things about the Timney two stage and might go with one because I also prefer a 2 stage. But I've got mine down to under 2lbs. and it's very good in a relative sense. I prefer the 2 stage on my Tac A1.

I love my Bravo stock but I really have not comparison beyond the chassis on my Tac A1. Which I'm highly considering moving to a Bravo.
 
I recently picked up a t1x.
This being my first tikkka and not having gotten to shoot her yet I have a few questions. I have or have had lots of rimfire bolt action rifles from savages to vudoos as 40x. My thinking was getting a couple t1x and building one for the stock class, and open class and maybe a match to a t3x completion rifle.
The main appeal to me was the the bolt throw and higher quality I have always heard from tikka/sako.
So my questions

1) the action really doesn’t lock open on an empty magazine? Are there different mags that lock open?

2) when the bolt is closed it has a tight lock however cycling the bolt is very sloppy and lose. To the point if you apply any pressure other then straight back and forward it gets rough.
I pulled the bolt apart and cleaned and re oiled it, I throughly cleaned the action thinking there maybe some rough machining marks in side but I didn’t find any. The inside of the action was all pretty nice. I am just curious if anyone else has had similar experiences .
3) the trigger is just awful. I have adjusted it as much as possible. I do prefer a two stage trigger. I have adjusted the weight as light as I can to the point there is no preload on the trigger shoe and it just rattles.
Any advice on a replacement 2 stage trigger?

4) And lastly being a long long time AI shooter and having no experience with KRG or MPA chassis. I am looking at goingwith either a bravo or the X-ray or an MPA. I am curious what are people experiences? Is there one clear advantage to another? I have always been interested in the krg but no one can argue about the MPA setup for completion!

Thank you for any advice!

I think you may he spoiled by the AI ?
As others have said there are not many bolt actions that lock open on an empty mag. I just count my rounds as I shoot and know when to drop and reload my mag.

Bother of the bolts in my rifle were not super smooth in my rifles when I got them. After probably 500 rounds though they smoothed out. I have several thousand rounds through both mine now and they are very smooth. I also think changing the bolt handle helped that as well as it changed the leverage point.
The Sterk or the one DIP makes is an excellent choice. I have one of each and like both. Being an AI user you would probably prefer the Sterk back swept bolt handle though.

For the trigger mine is fantastic for a factory trigger. I have mine set to 1 1/2lbs and it breaks nice and crisp. If you want an after market trigger I would look at the KRG trigger. It should fit into the chassis with no modifications. I think the Timney May require some modifications to the chassis if you get a KRG.

For the chassis I can’t say enough about the KRG chassis. For the price they are hard to beat. That said if cost was no object I would have it in a Whiskey 3 for the added weight. The MOA would also be another really good option or possible the MDT ACC chassis. Being able to use any T3 chassis with minimal modifications it a great feature.
 
I recently picked up a t1x.
This being my first tikkka and not having gotten to shoot her yet I have a few questions. I have or have had lots of rimfire bolt action rifles from savages to vudoos as 40x. My thinking was getting a couple t1x and building one for the stock class, and open class and maybe a match to a t3x completion rifle.
The main appeal to me was the the bolt throw and higher quality I have always heard from tikka/sako.
So my questions

1) the action really doesn’t lock open on an empty magazine? Are there different mags that lock open?

2) when the bolt is closed it has a tight lock however cycling the bolt is very sloppy and lose. To the point if you apply any pressure other then straight back and forward it gets rough.
I pulled the bolt apart and cleaned and re oiled it, I throughly cleaned the action thinking there maybe some rough machining marks in side but I didn’t find any. The inside of the action was all pretty nice. I am just curious if anyone else has had similar experiences .
3) the trigger is just awful. I have adjusted it as much as possible. I do prefer a two stage trigger. I have adjusted the weight as light as I can to the point there is no preload on the trigger shoe and it just rattles.
Any advice on a replacement 2 stage trigger?

4) And lastly being a long long time AI shooter and having no experience with KRG or MPA chassis. I am looking at goingwith either a bravo or the X-ray or an MPA. I am curious what are people experiences? Is there one clear advantage to another? I have always been interested in the krg but no one can argue about the MPA setup for completion!

Thank you for any advice!

+1 to what everyone else said..

2) After using my T3X yes, the bolt didn't feel as nice as my centerfire bolts, and when I'm not actually shooting the rifle I got fussy. Though the bolt on the RPRimfire, and CZ weren't any better. Behind the gun, especially with the Sterk handle, I've never felt / noticed that the action wasn't smooth. It cycles really fast and I've never gotten hung up on it. Only time I've had issue is with a spent casing not ejecting enough and my cycling gets the bolt/spent shell caught.

3) Tikka trigger is fantastic. For a single stage. There should be no creep/rattling. Pick up a $10 spring from MountainTactical / Elay Precision / YoDave, and it can lower to break to 1-1.25 lbs. If you're getting some rattling it looks like you might have adjusted your spring way too far out. I have then Timney 2-stage trigger on my T3X that I can swap between the two rifles, but I like having both to play with. My Timney is .5 stage 1, 1lb overall break, and my Tikka is 1lb overall single stage break. Both are really nice. If you can't get your trigger to be crisp, then it looks like a defect and Beretta will replace it for you, but you have to send the rifle in to them (they cover shipping both ways, just 2 weeks of waiting).

4). Bravo is an inexpensive chassis. I purchased mine as I was a first time shooter and didn't want to drop thousands of $ into it. If NRL22 and PRS is the game you want to play, with unlimited funds, it looks like going MPA chassis for everything would be the way to go assuming the ergos fit you (though those you can customize any which way you like I think). There's gotta be a reason why it's the #1 winning chassis in PRS. For me I have yet to do a PRS, and I'm just happying have matching centerfire/rimfire guns only paying $375ish for each chassis.

Though if I had to do it alllll over again, if they could shorten the throw angle on the Vudoo I'd go that route to have a more reliable rifle with top notch customer service... I didn't know I'd like shooting this much so that's why I went T1X... $1800 for a vudoo action is 4X+ the cost!
 
+1 to what everyone else said..

2) After using my T3X yes, the bolt didn't feel as nice as my centerfire bolts, and when I'm not actually shooting the rifle I got fussy. Though the bolt on the RPRimfire, and CZ weren't any better. Behind the gun, especially with the Sterk handle, I've never felt / noticed that the action wasn't smooth. It cycles really fast and I've never gotten hung up on it. Only time I've had issue is with a spent casing not ejecting enough and my cycling gets the bolt/spent shell caught.

3) Tikka trigger is fantastic. For a single stage. There should be no creep/rattling. Pick up a $10 spring from MountainTactical / Elay Precision / YoDave, and it can lower to break to 1-1.25 lbs. If you're getting some rattling it looks like you might have adjusted your spring way too far out. I have then Timney 2-stage trigger on my T3X that I can swap between the two rifles, but I like having both to play with. My Timney is .5 stage 1, 1lb overall break, and my Tikka is 1lb overall single stage break. Both are really nice. If you can't get your trigger to be crisp, then it looks like a defect and Beretta will replace it for you, but you have to send the rifle in to them (they cover shipping both ways, just 2 weeks of waiting).

4). Bravo is an inexpensive chassis. I purchased mine as I was a first time shooter and didn't want to drop thousands of $ into it. If NRL22 and PRS is the game you want to play, with unlimited funds, it looks like going MPA chassis for everything would be the way to go assuming the ergos fit you (though those you can customize any which way you like I think). There's gotta be a reason why it's the #1 winning chassis in PRS. For me I have yet to do a PRS, and I'm just happying have matching centerfire/rimfire guns only paying $375ish for each chassis.

Though if I had to do it alllll over again, if they could shorten the throw angle on the Vudoo I'd go that route to have a more reliable rifle with top notch customer service... I didn't know I'd like shooting this much so that's why I went T1X... $1800 for a vudoo action is 4X+ the cost!
Traitor!??
 
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Any one making a heavy barrel match grade yet.

I just dropped mine of at my gunsmith with a Feddersen 16” threaded barrel for a 10/22 to get it fitted. It should come in under $400 total for a custom fitted barrel. I have never seen a Feddersen that wouldn’t shoot so hopefully it will be a hammer. If not I can always go back to the factory barrel.
 
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I just dropped mine of at my gunsmith with a Feddersen 16” threaded barrel for a 10/22 to get it fitted. It should come in under $400 total for a custom fitted barrel. I have never seen a Feddersen that wouldn’t shoot so hopefully it will be a hammer. If not I can always go back to the factory barrel.

I've seen three.
 
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I've seen three.

That’s interesting. I’ve had and know of quite a few and generally speaking I have not really seen anything that shoots better on a 10/22. I have seen some Kidd barrels that come really close though. I haven’t seen a Lilja or Bartlien on a 10/22 though. I almost bought a Proof but in the end I just couldn’t justify the additional cost for a rifle that is being used for positional shooting. Now if I was shooting bench rest I probably would have payed the extra for a proof, Bartlien or Lilja. Was the issue with the feddersen barrels based on visual inspection or did you actually shoot them and they just wouldn’t group? I have had some barrels that looked perfect that would shoot and some that I felt had flaws in the rifling or crown that I would have sworn would shoot because of a defect that were tack drivers.
 
My firing pin assembly came in Wednesday. Put it back together and took it to the range to test fire it and check out that SK Standard Plus. Rifle shoots fine. Does not like the free ammo. Bummer. Even the 10/22 shoots the CCI SV better than the SK.
 
And I decided to contact Tikka and try and hustle another firing pin out of them for backup. What a fucking obstacle course that is. Still haven't been able to email anyone. It appears I must call or something. What did the guys who've sent theirs in do?