Tikka T1X

[Memberberries]

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the gyroscopic stability increases at distance because the velocity decreases fast but the spin rate stays relatively the same.
As long as the twist is fast enough to stabilise the projectile the first meters/yards it should not pose a problem at reduced velocities downrange.

That said, I have seen T1x barrels out there from International Barrels (IBI), Lothar Walther (USA only?) and Preferred Barrel Blanks (no a pre-fit I believe).
I'm sure Proof Research and others will follow suit soon enough.
Any good options for European T1x shooters out there?

A nice Bartlein barrel for the T1x would be sweet!

I don't know enough to know if you're right or wrong but using a bullet I pulled out of a case and the bc and velocity tried up so my drops match reality, all the calculators say SK standard plus and Lapua Center x are marginally stable. There's always lots of talk about faster twist rimfire barrels but nobody sells much. Bartlein could probably make one easily but I'm not ready to spend that kind of money on this gun when it's already sub-moa to 100, unless I start shooting nrl22x matches.

 

[M289]

I don't know enough to know if you're right or wrong but using a bullet I pulled out of a case and the bc and velocity tried up so my drops match reality, all the calculators say SK standard plus and Lapua Center x are marginally stable. There's always lots of talk about faster twist rimfire barrels but nobody sells much. Bartlein could probably make one easily but I'm not ready to spend that kind of money on this gun when it's already sub-moa to 100, unless I start shooting nrl22x matches.

I too noticed that the ballistic calculators tell me the stability is marginal at around 1.3 SG but they still seem to fly straight and not tumble to their destination.

IBI seems to do a 1-16 twist which is marginally faster than the 1-16.5 twist that Tikka uses.
I read about @padom doing projects (and group buys) for special rimfire barrels but I'm not sure if he did any fast twist barrels.

 

[Jobediah]

Fixing to go order a t1x. Any consensus on 16 vs. 20 barrel length?

 

[makepeace2000]

I have a 20”...I don’t think 16”s are available in U.S. yet.

 

[Ott]

I have a 20”...I don’t think 16”s are available in U.S. yet.

The 16” are a available now.

 

[Jobediah]

Ordered a 16" from Lipseys

 

[Biscuits]

Fixing to go order a t1x. Any consensus on 16 vs. 20 barrel length?

I bought the 16 inch and I'm still tormented about if I made the right decision or not. Although I just admired myself holding it in the mirror so I guess I'm happy with it

If you ever plan to use a chassis then I'd get the 20 inch as imho a chassis with a 16 inch just looks odd.

 

[makepeace2000]

Unless you have a can. Then it’s juuuuust right. (Says the mans with 20” T1x and no can)

 

[Memberberries]

I really think mine would be best as a 12" with the can on it. But then I have to sbr it and that's maybe a little nuts lol

 

[Tomiboy]

Me too man; I honestly don’t think they’ll shrink much for the “best” groups, I’m hoping it develops more consistency and the overall average will come down.

One thing I noticed immediately is how much smoother it feeds compared to the stock Barrel. The action has always been rough on this rifle (chambering) even with 1500 rounds down the barrel.
Straight out of the box though this one is buttery smooth and I’m quite happy.
Just gotta let my shoulder heal up a bit more before testing it, just had shoulder surgery Wednesday.

I have been waiting for a real test on one of these LW barrels. My T1X is a great rifle but I cant seem to get consistent sub MOA groups at 100 Yards. Can't wait to see your results!

 

[unoigo]

I’ve read thru most of this and from what I’m understanding a T1x will fit in a Manners T3 stock as “drop in” meaning no modification. Is this correct? Thanks

 

[Usmcsomerville]

I’ve read thru most of this and from what I’m understanding a T1x will fit in a Manners T3 stock as “drop in” meaning no modification. Is this correct? Thanks

I had mine in a manners prs1tk with mini chassis and needed to only slightly relief dremel for the bolt release. I don't know about the non mini chassis stock. You might have to do a good amount of dremel work to provide a space for the magwell bolt.

I don't think any t3 chassis/stock is a t1x drop in unless they state it. Most t3 stocks/chassis will require slight modifications

 

[unoigo]

I had mine in a manners prs1tk with mini chassis and needed to only slightly relief dremel for the bolt release. I don't know about the non mini chassis stock. You might have to do a good amount of dremel work to provide a space for the magwell bolt.

I don't think any t3 chassis/stock is a t1x drop in unless they state it. Most t3 stocks/chassis will require slight modifications

Good feedback, thank you. Of the ones available for quick ship, it does have the mini chassis.

 

[Usmcsomerville]

Good feedback, thank you. Of the ones available for quick ship, it does have the mini chassis.

Here is mine that I had mounted. If you get one feel free to pm me if you have questions. It is super easy and very obvious what needs to be dremeled and once the action is mounted, you can't see it.

 

[unoigo]

View attachment 7399493

Here is mine that I had mounted. If you get one feel free to pm me if you have questions. It is super easy and very obvious what needs to be dremeled and once the action is mounted, you can't see it.

Damn good looking stick! I’m sure it runs just as good. I appreciate the offer.Hope to have the stock in my hands in a week or two.

 

[unoigo]

@Usmcsomerville

Does the razor make the rifle feel top heavy? That’s the glass I wanted to go with but was worried about the weight balance.

 

[RETE8]

First confirmed kill with my T1X while shooting at 100 yds.....poor fly never stood a chance...

 

[makepeace2000]

Only 50 yards...but still.

 

[Biscuits]

First confirmed kill with my T1X while shooting at 100 yds.....poor fly never stood a chance...

I just watched a Youtube vid of someone hunting groundhogs with a 300 win mag. This is the same overkill ratio, at a smaller scale

 

[Usmcsomerville]

@Usmcsomerville

Does the razor make the rifle feel top heavy? That’s the glass I wanted to go with but was worried about the weight balance.

I mean the razor is a tank, but it doesn't feel awkward

 

[fyaman43]

Just picked up my T1x. Really impressed and can't wait to get it up and running. What's the scope rail to get? Been considering the Area 419 30 MOA and Mountain Tactical 30 MOA, but saw the 25 MOA DIP is over $20 cheaper and gets good reviews....

 

[Jclark65]

I put an Area 419 on mine and really like it.

 

[Memberberries]

I've got the anarchy outdoors 30 moa and it's been great

 

[Swaim13]

Another vote for the area 419

 

[Eoddave27]

Just picked up my T1x. Really impressed and can't wait to get it up and running. What's the scope rail to get? Been considering the Area 419 30 MOA and Mountain Tactical 30 MOA, but saw the 25 MOA DIP is over $20 cheaper and gets good reviews....

Ive had really bad luck with the DIP rails. I had one on a T1x and one on a 10/22 that were both marked 25 moa. They were both actually 0 MOA. I switched to an Anarchy Outdoors rail on my T1x and am really happy with it. I believe it was $60 and came with a built in level.

 

[M289]

I got the Tactical Ordnance Inc (from Canada) 30 MOA rail and it's build like a tank.
Would take either the Tacord or Area419 rail, both good stuff!

Oh, the Tacord rail is a bit taller than the Area 419 rail which is really low profile.

 

[fyaman43]

Thanks guys.

 

[GSRswapandslow]

took my bravo t1x out last weekend........one 1/2" hole at 50yds.....right at 1 MOA at 100yds....but at 150yds the thing fell apart and i couldn't get anything going.

I was shooting sk rifle match and lapua center x

 

[Eoddave27]

took my bravo t1x out last weekend........one 1/2" hole at 50yds.....right at 1 MOA at 100yds....but at 150yds the thing fell apart and i couldn't get anything going.

I was shooting sk rifle match and lapua center x

That is the same thing I have seen with all my factory barrels. Both my CZ 457 and my T1x when it still had the factory barrel shot really well inside 100 yards. After 100 yards the groups really fell apart though no matter what ammo I was using. Beyond 100 yards is where you really see a difference with the custom barrels. When I rebarreled my Tikka the groups inside 100 did tighten up but beyond 100 yards was the real difference. My Vudoo is the same way. Inside 100 It is impressive but beyond 100 is where the custom barrels really shine.

 

[GSRswapandslow]

im not opposed to a custom barrel....just concered with everyone's difficulty in removing and replacing the factory barrel is all.

 

[Eoddave27]

Oh the factory barrel was a PITA to remove but quite a few guys have had good luck with PB blaster and heat. On the other hand I’ve heard other people who didn’t have any issues removing their barrels. Both of the ones I had were not so easy to remove however. I will say I didn’t just buy a drop in barrel. I took my rifle to a smith and he fit, chambered and head spaced the barrel for me. I just think if you want to get every last bit of possible accuracy out of the rifle custom fit is the only way to go.

 

[GSRswapandslow]

if i were to do it...id most likely just get the LW drop in. I'm just not sure HOW much heat to use

 

[545riflefan]

Question for the folks who have changed the barrel out from factory to aftermarket. What did you find as far as improved groups. Specifically did you do the 6x5 with your best lot of ammo and then repeat that 6x5 after the new barrel. I’m really curious how a new barrel performed ( all things being equal with good before and after )

im working with a mostly stock T1x and am lot testing various ammo at 200. Wanting to see from other folks what was best at 200 with factory barrel and then what improvement they got with aftermarket barrel at 200.

thank you. Really learning a bunch.

 

[Eoddave27]

Generally speaking I cut my groups inside 100 in half. My 50 yd 6x5 with the factory barrel was around .4”. After the custom barrel I can pretty consistently shoot right around a .2”. At 100 I average .6-.7”. When I stretch out to 200 yards I have not shot groups but I have a 2 1/2” piece of steel that I rarely miss unless I have a round that shoots really fast or slow. You can’t blame the rifle when you get 30-40fps difference in muzzle velocity though. I have been really lucky and found some really consistent lots of the cheaper Eley ammo and got cases. I did the same with my Vudoo with SK ammo. I found something that shot well and bought as much as I could get my hands on. With the way rimfire ammo seems to be drying up I’m glad I bought it when I did.

 

[cm1021]

Does anyone know of a flat blade trigger designed for the t1x or t3? I'd really like to find just the trigger and put it in my factory fcg. I have it where it breaks just right to me. If replacing the whole thing is the only option I'm just going to live with it.

 

[blr454]

Here my new Tikka t1x in Cadex Nuke Strike EVO stock.
Now i try different Ammo this week look like the Eley match goes very well in this rifle.

But i don't know if the Federal gold medal match HV was a good round to try. Some of you try it.

 

[slickalaus12]

Hey Guys, I am still a noob when it comes to many things surrounding rifles. My t1x (factory stock) has the barrel touching the stock on the left side, and by extension has a sizeable gap on the right side. Is this an issue with action screw torque or is there something else I am missing?

 

[fyaman43]

Have you shot the rifle yet? It might not affect performance or be worth addressing if it shoots well.

 

[Eoddave27]

It’s a cheap plastic stock. Chances are it is warped. My factory stock would flex and hit the barrel every time I loaded the bipod. That is why everyone trashes the stock and buys something else. My factory stock stayed on my rifle for about 5 hours. It went to the range once then in the junk pile.

 

[nockhunter]

I filled my factory stock with some lead shot and epoxy, it stiffened up quit a bit.

Mike

 

[Quarter Horse]

Eoddave27,

Can you put up a picture of you T1X and give us a complete description to include barrel maker, chamber type, trigger, chassis/stock and any other specs. Your comparison to the Vudoo performance is obviously intriguing

 

[slickalaus12]

Have you shot the rifle yet? It might not affect performance or be worth addressing if it shoots well.

ive shot a couple thousand rounds through it. it was free floated before though i am not sure when this happened haha

 

[Eoddave27]

Eoddave27,

Can you put up a picture of you T1X and give us a complete description to include barrel maker, chamber type, trigger, chassis/stock and any other specs. Your comparison to the Vudoo performance is obviously intriguing

I’ll have to go back and look but all that information is already in this thread. I don’t remember what page.

edit. Go to page 67 about half way down the page.

 

[Bangarang]

My T1x arrived a couple of weeks ago. Looks just like the pic of your stock.
I'm waiting on a G5LE chassis with the adjustable stock & cheekpiece options from PDC Custom.
The Vortex Strike Eagle arrived last week.
Can't wait to assemble everything and head to the range to test different ammos!!!

 

[Eoddave27]

My T1x arrived a couple of weeks ago. Looks just like the pic of your stock.
I'm waiting on a G5LE chassis with the adjustable stock & cheekpiece options from PDC Custom.
The Vortex Strike Eagle arrived last week.
Can't wait to assemble everything and head to the range to test different ammos!!!

If You force the stock straight and fill the front of it with epoxy I would guess that will fix it. If It was me I would get some lead shot and fill the front with lead and epoxy

 

[M289]

Picked up my Tikka T1x with 20" barrel last week and while waiting for the KRG Bravo chassis and Sterk upgrades I'm going to test it in it's factory configuration

Seriously considering getting an IBI 20" barrel but going by what I read in the thread from @Kisssofdeath that is something I'll need to be well prepared for. Maybe even consider outsourcing the fitting to an actual gunsmith
Tikka T1x Barrel Removal thread

The Tactical Ordnance Inc 30 MOA rail from Canada is seriously good stuff though, plenty of clearance near the ejection port.
The Tangent Theta is a bit big for this setup, the looks will improve with the KRG Bravo and IBI Bull barrel under it. Eye relief and ergonomics too I presume.

 

[Eoddave27]

Here is my rifle. The barrel is 16 1/2” a Feddersen blank I had a local gunsmith fit and chamber for me. He used a Manson Eley EPS reamer and head spaced it at 0.041”. The stock in the photo is a MPA chassis for a Tikka T3x that modified to work with the T1x. I moved the barreled action back to a KRG Bravo and put my T3 match rifle in the MPA. For the T1x I think I actually prefer the Bravo. In the photo the rifle has a Sterk bolt handle and knob. I have since changed that to the Anarchy Outdoors bolt handle and knob. It's a little longer which I prefer.

 

[Bangarang]

I plan to run the factory barrel for a while before replacing it.
I definitely plan to outsource the fitting and chambering!

Any feeding or ejection issues running the Anarchy Outdoors bolt and knob? I read some folks have issues with the Sterk...

 

[Eoddave27]

I think the issues are from the shroud not the handle and knob. both the Sterk and AO bolt handles functioned flawlessly.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Greetings, I've been a long time lurker of this thread.
Thanks for all the great info, especially on the barrels, accessories, and ammo comparisons.

Reading through the 4k+ threads, I have not seen any comparison in accuracy between the 16" and 20."
I'm not sure I believe everything this Youtuber says, but makes me wonder about the old debate between longer barrels and accuracy.
Granted, I will not be shooting iron sights, but his main argument revolves around lower ES/SD in longer barrels and tunability.


According to what's listed on Tikka USA, the 16" for the US is lighter at 6 lbs and has a "semi heavy" barrel (whatever that means).

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The purpose of my build: a NRL22 capable rifle shooting a TB 22 TD suppressor and gradually upgrade as my skills improve.
Thank you in advance for any insights/assistance.