I think the issues are from the shroud not the handle and knob. both the Sterk and AO bolt handles functioned flawlessly.
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Greetings, I've been a long time lurker of this thread.
Thanks for all the great info, especially on the barrels, accessories, and ammo comparisons.
Reading through the 4k+ threads, I have not seen any comparison in accuracy between the 16" and 20."
I'm not sure I believe everything this Youtuber says, but makes me wonder about the old debate between longer barrels and accuracy.
Granted, I will not be shooting iron sights, but his main argument revolves around lower ES/SD in longer barrels and tunability.
According to what's listed on Tikka USA, the 16" for the US is lighter at 6 lbs and has a "semi heavy" barrel (whatever that means).
choose.tikka.fi
The purpose of my build: a NRL22 capable rifle shooting a TB 22 TD suppressor and gradually upgrade as my skills improve.
Thank you in advance for any insights/assistance.
Thanks for all the great info, especially on the barrels, accessories, and ammo comparisons.
Reading through the 4k+ threads, I have not seen any comparison in accuracy between the 16" and 20."
I'm not sure I believe everything this Youtuber says, but makes me wonder about the old debate between longer barrels and accuracy.
Granted, I will not be shooting iron sights, but his main argument revolves around lower ES/SD in longer barrels and tunability.
According to what's listed on Tikka USA, the 16" for the US is lighter at 6 lbs and has a "semi heavy" barrel (whatever that means).
Choose your own Tikka rifle from a variety of innovative models
Tikka is able to meet the requirements of modern hunters by combining traditional gunsmith know-how with advanced technology. Choose your own Tikka rifle now!
choose.tikka.fi
The purpose of my build: a NRL22 capable rifle shooting a TB 22 TD suppressor and gradually upgrade as my skills improve.
Thank you in advance for any insights/assistance.
Last edited:
Greetings, I've been a long time lurker of this thread.
Thanks for all the great info, especially on the barrels, accessories, and ammo comparisons.
Reading through the 4k+ threads, I have not seen any comparison in accuracy between the 16" and 20."
I'm not sure I believe everything this Youtuber says, but makes me wonder about the old debate between longer barrels and accuracy.
Granted, I will not be shooting iron sights, but his main argument revolves around lower ES/SD in longer barrels and tunability.
According to what's listed on Tikka USA, the 16" for the US is lighter at 6 lbs and has a "semi heavy" barrel (whatever that means).
Choose your own Tikka rifle from a variety of innovative models
Tikka is able to meet the requirements of modern hunters by combining traditional gunsmith know-how with advanced technology. Choose your own Tikka rifle now!
The purpose of my build: a NRL22 capable rifle shooting a TB 22 TD suppressor and gradually upgrade as my skills improve.
Thank you in advance for any insights/assistance.
Well that Youtuber is Orkan (spelling?) here on the hide and there is a thread on barrel length and accuracy.
I will say my longer barrels shoot more types/brands of ammo better, but my shorter barrel shoot the ammo they like just as well and are handier. But that’s my 2 cents.
I wanted to put an aftermarket barrel on my wife’s tikka but it shoots just fine as is so there is no need to change it out.
Dave, thank you. I remember reading it originally now that I have revisited the thread. Your nine bull target still amazes me. You won the barrel lottery. $5.00 Eley Contact and you won the ammo lottery. You had already won the gunsmith lottery. You personally won the shooter lottery. That target is fantastic. I don't care how correct the numbers are in your group measurements. You had an absolute killer day. The oft asked question is T1X vs. WHATEVER. I don't know whether your T1X is a unicorn or whether it is reproducible. You took about a $1500. build (in a Bravo stock) and S5.00 ammo and absolutely lit it up. Congratulations!!! However you measure it, that is the best 50yd. T1X target I have ever seen. If it was in the 6X5 thread it would be in the top of class if one were to reference every 6X5 version cumulatively. Please talk to jbell.
Thank you for mentioning this. I also noticed that when loading my bipod on uneven ground that the stock would flex and touch the barrel I added a little over 1 pound of #9 shot up front with some epoxy. Also added 4 pounds of # 9 shot in the butt stock ( 4x 1 lbs plastic baggies wrapped in padded cloth. Rifle balance point is the mag well. With an extra 5 lbs on this gun it really feels solid and planted now. Hope to get to the range and see if this corrects the wondering POI I see each time I reset to shoot a mag thru the gun. The fact that I see that the stock was touching the barrel when the pod was loaded ( if 1 leg gets loaded more ) I also opened up the channel around the barrel a bit and removed the block. My wife shoots the exact setup but wants to see how mine now performs before she gives me green light to mod hers. So we have a control to test against
Shooting groups is a necessary evil to me and in general the only time I do it is if I’m testing ammo. Now I don’t even test ammo at 50 yds any longer. I set up a target at 200 early in the morning before the wind picks up and test that way. I will shoot 5 groups of 10 and see how the lot shoots. Just about everything shoots well out of my Tikka and Vudoo at 50. Seeing the difference is really splitting hairs. Beyond 100 is where you see a difference. At any rate I have no interest in entering a target in the 6x5. It’s just not my idea of fun. I do it when It is necessary and that is it. I have several cases of good lots for both rifles so hopefully I will not need to do any ammo testing for a long time.
Thank you for mentioning this. I also noticed that when loading my bipod on uneven ground that the stock would flex and touch the barrel I added a little over 1 pound of #9 shot up front with some epoxy. Also added 4 pounds of # 9 shot in the butt stock ( 4x 1 lbs plastic baggies wrapped in padded cloth. Rifle balance point is the mag well. With an extra 5 lbs on this gun it really feels solid and planted now. Hope to get to the range and see if this corrects the wondering POI I see each time I reset to shoot a mag thru the gun. The fact that I see that the stock was touching the barrel when the pod was loaded ( if 1 leg gets loaded more ) I also opened up the channel around the barrel a bit and removed the block. My wife shoots the exact setup but wants to see how mine now performs before she gives me green light to mod hers. So we have a control to test against
View attachment 7408330
A lot of times issues POI shift can be attributed to not getting all the parallax dialed out of your scope and or having an inconsistent cheek weld. I had a Athlon Ares ETR that I had a heck of a time getting parallax free inside 100 yards. Doing positional shooting where I would get behind the rifle in different positions I would see major POI shifts. Sometimes as much as 1” at 50 yards. My solution was to change optics and that fixed my issue. The optic was fine at 100 and beyond but inside 100 was almost impossible to get parallax free so it went to a centerfire rifle.
@Eoddave27 how do you like that sig scope on your t1x?
I was set on an ETR but your comment on parallax has me rethinking that. Looking at the sigs specs it states parallax down to 100 yards, does it have any issues going lower than that?
I was set on an ETR but your comment on parallax has me rethinking that. Looking at the sigs specs it states parallax down to 100 yards, does it have any issues going lower than that?
I think that is a typo on Sigs part. The parallax goes down to 25 yards on mine. That said I no longer have the Sig on my T1X. I’ve switched to 5-25 Viper PST gen 2’s on both my T1x and Vudoo. The Sig is a really nice scope especially for the money. It is just overkill for a rimfire to start so I put it in one of my long range rifles. It’s sets on a 223 DMR rifle I shoot gas gun matches with. My Sig has the milling reticle which is easy to use at low magnification when the targets are large and speed is the key. The Viper has a much wider FOV which makes scanning for targets at 10-12x much easier. I also find the reticle I have in both my Vortex scopes much better for holdovers since I rarely dial in a match if I’m engaging targets at multiple distances in a single stage.
The Parallax on the ETR goes down to 25 YDS. I am running a Midas Tac which is also a bit of a cheaper, but still very good option. Parallax down to 10 yards and no issues at all in that regard.
Please can some one post a photo of the Mag well of a T1X in a KRG chassis. with the magazine inserted and of it without a magazine in.
I have a TRG stock that is on a KRG backbone and am hoping I will be good to go to use it with a T1X.
TIA
I have a TRG stock that is on a KRG backbone and am hoping I will be good to go to use it with a T1X.
TIA
Yes, the parallax does go down to 25 yards on the Ares ETR. The issue with mine was it was almost impossible to get all the parallax dialed out of the scope under 100 yards. Doing it at a match on the clock while shooting at something like a KYL rack where a little error can make a huge difference was basically impossible. I have used a few of the Ares ETR’s and know a few people who have them as well and everyone I know at least complains about the parallax. It may not be the case on all of them however. I also had a Midas TAC. The parallax on that optic was great. Who knows what the issue was. The glass on the ETR was fantastic. I just had issues with the parallax and found the eyebox a little to tight for my liking.
Gotcha. I have never ran an Ares and that is frustrating given the price point. Eye box is definitely tight on both my Athlons. I am not competing in matches so that's not something that's been an issue for me but I totally understand your frustration with parallax and eye box concerns when you are on the clock!
It took me awhile to find the right optic for my rimfire rifles. I liked the Sig but the FOV was not great and made scanning for targets a lot more difficult than it needed to be. The reticle was not ideal either. It had the standard mil reticle which wasn’t great for holding for wind while holding over for elevation. I tried a Vortex with the EBR-7C and found the reticle wasn’t ideal for holdovers either. When I was holding 6-8 mils it was really easy to get lost in the reticle especially when time is critical. My PST’s have the EBR-2C reticle which has the numbers down the centerline of the tree which makes it a lot easier for me to use. The 7C has the numbers at the outer edge of the tree. For a centerfire that is fine because I’m not usually holding 6-8 mils but in a rimfire it’s a different story. The PST also has a very forgiving parallax, great FOV and good eyebox. There are optics out there with better glass in the same price range but the PST offers a great overall package for the money.
Excellent discussion on rimfire optics options. Chiming in with my 2 cents on optics for the 22 LR. I purchased all the optics listed below and have used them at the range on multiple occasions ranging from 7+ years for the PST gen 1 to a few months with the Arken and Athlon. Zero financial or other ties.
Vortex PST gen 1 4-16x50: satisfactory glass, satisfactory simple/clear reticle, excellent eye box, excellent parallax from 50 yards up with very smooth adjustments, shimmed zero stop
Arken SH4 4-14x50: excellent glass but barrel distortion, excellent simple/clear floating cross reticle, satisfactory eye box, excellent parallax from 10 yards up but adjustment knob is very stiff and far from smooth, solid easy to set zero stop
Athlon Argos BTR gen 2 4-24x50: glass quality between Arken and Vortex (clarity is better than Vortex but chromatic aberration is more than the Vortex and Arken), slightly thick x-mas tree reticle, good eye box below 18x but unsat at higher magnification, excellent parallax from 10 yards up with smooth and accurate rotations, solid zero stop, solid easy to set zero stop
As you can see, at this price point of ~$350-$450 street price, each scope will have its limitations. I prioritized my decision based on the purpose behind the rifle build, cost (stay within base class), reticle preference, etc.
For me, the Arken will sit atop the Savage B22 Precision as my wife's gun and kids' trainer and the Athlon paired with either the T1x or 457 to compete in the NRL22 base class. The Vortex is still a very competitive scope, but for centerfire rifles due to parallax adjustments being >50 yards. I will likely put the Vortex back on the .308 where it was originally purchased, very dependable and accurate for many moons.
More testing once I decide between the T1x or 457.
YMMV, happy shooting.
Arken SH4
Athlon Argos
Vortex Viper PST gen 1
Vortex PST gen 1 4-16x50: satisfactory glass, satisfactory simple/clear reticle, excellent eye box, excellent parallax from 50 yards up with very smooth adjustments, shimmed zero stop
Arken SH4 4-14x50: excellent glass but barrel distortion, excellent simple/clear floating cross reticle, satisfactory eye box, excellent parallax from 10 yards up but adjustment knob is very stiff and far from smooth, solid easy to set zero stop
Athlon Argos BTR gen 2 4-24x50: glass quality between Arken and Vortex (clarity is better than Vortex but chromatic aberration is more than the Vortex and Arken), slightly thick x-mas tree reticle, good eye box below 18x but unsat at higher magnification, excellent parallax from 10 yards up with smooth and accurate rotations, solid zero stop, solid easy to set zero stop
As you can see, at this price point of ~$350-$450 street price, each scope will have its limitations. I prioritized my decision based on the purpose behind the rifle build, cost (stay within base class), reticle preference, etc.
For me, the Arken will sit atop the Savage B22 Precision as my wife's gun and kids' trainer and the Athlon paired with either the T1x or 457 to compete in the NRL22 base class. The Vortex is still a very competitive scope, but for centerfire rifles due to parallax adjustments being >50 yards. I will likely put the Vortex back on the .308 where it was originally purchased, very dependable and accurate for many moons.
More testing once I decide between the T1x or 457.
YMMV, happy shooting.
Arken SH4
Athlon Argos
Vortex Viper PST gen 1
I have an Athlon Argos that I also have parallax issues with. I had to switch optics to eliminate the POI shift when reaquiring sight picture. No problems with my Vortex.
BuckeyeSniper - Was your Athlon Argos gen 1 or gen 2? My gen 2 parallax seems to be trackable and reliable from 10 to 200 yards. The tall target test was spot on at 10 mils and the tactile and audible clicks on the turrets were even better than the Arken SH4 or the Vortex Vipser PST gen 1.
YMMV, happy shooting.
It is a gen 2. I really wanted to like the scope. That was my only real complaint other than the weight. It’s also much heavier than my Vortex Diamondback Tactical. Maybe even heavier than my Strike Eagle.
I never had a Midas Tac on my T1x. My son used one briefly but we upgraded him to a Tract Toric.
Finally got the Manners in over the weekend. It’s a PRS1 with Gen 2 mini chassis. The T1x dropped right in with only a tad bit of shaving for the bolt release.
Took it out yesterday and it seemed to like pretty much all ammo. However with SK RM I got at least 2 failure to feeds each time I ran a magazine through it. Maybe it’s just me being lazy with the bolt but never occurred with CCI, Federal or Norma.
Im still new to this but was getting 1/4 to 1/2 groups at 25 yd, 1/2 at 50, and 1 MOA at 100 yd. Storms rolled in fast and was unable to retrieve the targets.
Took it out yesterday and it seemed to like pretty much all ammo. However with SK RM I got at least 2 failure to feeds each time I ran a magazine through it. Maybe it’s just me being lazy with the bolt but never occurred with CCI, Federal or Norma.
Im still new to this but was getting 1/4 to 1/2 groups at 25 yd, 1/2 at 50, and 1 MOA at 100 yd. Storms rolled in fast and was unable to retrieve the targets.
Can anyone recommend a t1x-specific chassis that is not oryx or bravo?
I am doing some research, having a hard time finding much else beyond those two that are specifically made for the t1x
I am doing some research, having a hard time finding much else beyond those two that are specifically made for the t1x
Slickalaus12-
From what I recall from this thread and a very brief internet search, the companies listed below have stocks specifically made for the T1x (besides KRG and Oryx).
1. https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/product-configurator
2. https://mdttac.com/us_en/lss-rimfire-chassis-system.html
3. https://www.bellandcarlson.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=1148
However, the beauty of the T1x is that many of the T3x stocks will also fit with minor modifications such as unoigo's Manner's stock pictured above.
YMMV, happy shooting.
From what I recall from this thread and a very brief internet search, the companies listed below have stocks specifically made for the T1x (besides KRG and Oryx).
1. https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/product-configurator
2. https://mdttac.com/us_en/lss-rimfire-chassis-system.html
3. https://www.bellandcarlson.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=1148
However, the beauty of the T1x is that many of the T3x stocks will also fit with minor modifications such as unoigo's Manner's stock pictured above.
YMMV, happy shooting.
Nice find. Very customizable options and good price to boot. Thanks for sharing.
PDC Customs good stuff. Color is Cast Iron
That looks amazing, very well built. I forgot to mention I am in Canada, which complicates matters haha. But I'll look into this one more!
please can you enlighten me as to the minor modification required?
As per my earlier post I have a genuine Sako TRG butt stock and forend with a KRG back bone I’m hoping to use.
it works with a T3 so I’m hoping it works with a T1x
I had to shave about 5mm of material so that the bolt release would move freely. A 30 sec job with a dremel. This was a manners stock. Cannot speak for others.
With some of the T3 stocks you will need to clear a little area for the bolt that holds the mag well on the T1x. The other common modification is clearing a little area for the bolt release. Both of those modifications are usually pretty simple.
I've posted what's required twice but here it is again - as mentioned you need space for the magazine well screw head. The krg trigger guard needs to be held on by some other way due to the krg screw hitting the tikka mag well screw. I used 2x small m3 screws counterbored so they sat below the tikka mag well screw. I didnt touch the bolt release area and the normal AI mag latch is still in place.
Thank you for the suggestion on checking for parallax as the possible cause. I got back from the range and can confirm that for me the cause was not parallax but was the stock flexing when loading the bipod. After laying in the lead and epoxy up front ( approx 1 lb of shot up front ) and inserting the baggies of lead shot ( 3x 1lb ) in the butt stock that I’m all set. Shoots like a dream and now hits POA each time I get behind it. Here is how I got the shot into the rear
you’ll see in this pic the foam insert that is in the stock from Tikka You’ll need to remove the butt pad. Once you remove the butt pad you will find a plastic grid like waffle spacer. The you just pull straight out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Now you will see the foam piece. Pull this out and now you have a hollow stock. If you have installed a cheek riser make sure to remove the screws as there is a good chance the screws are into the foam.
I filled these small zip lock baggies with #9 shot. Each little baggie holds 1 pound. I cut a small piece of rag to wrap the baggie and pushed it all the way into the stock. I followed this for a total of 3 in mine and a total of 4 for my wife’s gun. I find that 3 lbs is a perfect neutral balance where 4 had the rear slightly heavier. My wife likes it a touch heavier in the rear. I filled any open space in the rear with rag pieces and then installed the waffle spacer and then the butt pad. All set.
I did end up changing the screws to torx ( look much better ) for the Titan cheek rest so they are just long enough to properly fasten to the stock but not so long as to cut into the baggies. Total gun weight is just at 14lbs for me and 15 lbs for my wife’s gun
you’ll see in this pic the foam insert that is in the stock from Tikka You’ll need to remove the butt pad. Once you remove the butt pad you will find a plastic grid like waffle spacer. The you just pull straight out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Now you will see the foam piece. Pull this out and now you have a hollow stock. If you have installed a cheek riser make sure to remove the screws as there is a good chance the screws are into the foam.
I filled these small zip lock baggies with #9 shot. Each little baggie holds 1 pound. I cut a small piece of rag to wrap the baggie and pushed it all the way into the stock. I followed this for a total of 3 in mine and a total of 4 for my wife’s gun. I find that 3 lbs is a perfect neutral balance where 4 had the rear slightly heavier. My wife likes it a touch heavier in the rear. I filled any open space in the rear with rag pieces and then installed the waffle spacer and then the butt pad. All set.
I did end up changing the screws to torx ( look much better ) for the Titan cheek rest so they are just long enough to properly fasten to the stock but not so long as to cut into the baggies. Total gun weight is just at 14lbs for me and 15 lbs for my wife’s gun
Attachments
Finally got my license and picked up my rifle! Now I’m just waiting for lots of boxes of ammo to try out what works best!
At first I thought it was a DIP handle, but the connection to the bolt is different.
So yeah - what is it?
exactly my point....that's my only complaint with my DIP handle....it looks terrible where it interfaces with the bolt
Nice setup! How do you like the Vortex Strike Eagle?Finally got my license and picked up my rifle! Now I’m just waiting for lots of boxes of ammo to try out what works best!
View attachment 7413540
The bolt handle is from "German Gun Stock". They have a killer bolt for the T3x...
M829. I have only had one short session at the range but so far I really like it. With 25x power it is easy to get out there. The only percieved downside to ffp in general is the reticle being very thin/hard to see on low power in a hunting situation. An illuminated center dot instead of entire tree would be nice!
M829. I have only had one short session at the range but so far I really like it. With 25x power it is easy to get out there. The only percieved downside to ffp in general is the reticle being very thin/hard to see on low power in a hunting situation. An illuminated center dot instead of entire tree would be nice!
I'm curious about this as well. Have read a couple of good experiences with the IBI T1x barrel. Haven't seen much about the Lothar Walther barrel.
Their specifications are slightly different, so far I have collected the following:
Code:
International Barrels Inc. Canada
Chamber: Calfee4
Material: 416R Stainless Steel
Proces: Button Rifled
Twist: 1-16”
Groove: 8
Crown: 11 Degree Target
Diameter: 0.920"
Length: 20"
Lothar Walther USA
Chamber: - unknown -
Material: Stainless Steel (HW50?)
Proces: Button Rifled
Twist: 1-16”
Groove: 6
Crown: - unknown -
Diameter: 0.900"
Length: 20.50"I'm about to bite the bullet and order a barrel from IBI, I like the fat 0.920" profile and so far customer service has been good.
the $75 isn't THAT much....and I have a harrel tuner that's setup for 0.920"....so i might just end up in the IBI because of that alone
Hi all. Is anyone getting consistent .2-.3 @ 50 yds from the T1X with aftermarket barrel or factory barrel with tuning/ammo? I am wanting to get something shooting .2-.3 and trying to figure out if it will be a barrel for my T1X or maybe a barrel for my CZ 455 or just buy something else that will. Thanks
My T1x with the aftermarket barrel will consistently shoot .2-.3 but mine isn’t a drop in. I has a smith chamber And custom fit a barrel for mine. The easy button for that kind of accuracy will be a Vudoo.
My T1x is factory barreled action sitting in a manners. .25 at 25 yards .5 at 50, 1 moa at 100 consistently. I firmly believe with a better shooter it will perform better. Those groups were with the first 100 rds down the barrel so I also feel it will tighten up as it sees more rounds.
