For what its worth, I recently shot 5 - 5 shot groups @ 50 yds with my all stock T1X with a random lot of Center-X , starting with a clean barrel, the average for all 5 was .324", this with a 14x scope shot from a bipod and rear bag.
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Thanks Dave. I dont have much for gun smiths around here. Maybe guys with drop in barrels will chime in.
I can count on .3-.45 averages for 5x5 groups with SK rifle match. Just a bit better with fed um22. I want to try center X but it is out of stock for now.
My factory barrel shot pretty consistently right around .35 with Eley Edge or Center x. It was more than good enough for positional shooting. The biggest reason I switched barrels was because I wanted a heavier barrel and I wanted a 16“ barrel. I just decided that if I was going to spend the money on the barrel I wanted it to be as accurate as possible which meant custom fit to me.
I need to get my hands on some center X. The T1X is so close to silly accurate and guns costing double or more , it has me believing that I guy can somehow squeeze just .1 more out of it.
Anyone running a 16in? Just wondering if the accuracy is the same as the standard length barrel. Had one on order and it got canceled after 2 weeks. Still have the grip, spring, base and three mags so will end up ordering another at some point.
I just picked up a 16" model have not got it to the range yet, still waiting on the base to show up.
Took my T1X out for the first time yesterday for a zero and some ammo testing. Got great results from CCI MiniMag, SK rifle match, and Aguila Target Competition (this one surprised me for some reason). My rifle didn't like anything less than 40gr projectiles but it was also a bit windy.
Man, that thing is fun to shoot!
Man, that thing is fun to shoot!
Yes it was #3....heres the target, 50 yards with Center X , bottom group was cold/clean barrel, the groups were fired from bottom to top, you can see the tighten up in group 4 & 5 . I like how consistent the POI is, great little rifle that will get better I think.
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You shoot it well as did I. I'm glad you bought it, all I would have ended up doing is butchering it with a different stock and a Lothar Walther 17HM2 barrel. It really shoots too good to mess with. 
Very nice, rim star. On the subject of cleaning how/what/when? I would like to settle in on a regular procedure. I just clean 22lr now and then, when I figure it has been a while. I shoot sporting clays and clean shotguns every time I shoot. Deer rifles once a year or as needed. Air rifle , almost never. What say you KOD , eoddave , rim star? You boys are way ahead of me on this 22 stuff and I really appreciate all I have learned from guys on this site.
As of late.....I just been using Pro Shot and patches.......Carbon C4 after every 2-300.......not using brushes like I use to .....YMMV......seems this Tikka dont need cleaning much......I shot 5 - 5 shot groups with CCI-SV a few days back.....average was .425" ......that was after 400 rounds and no cleaning
Ahh, the million dollar question with the million answers to go with every dollar. You could ask 50 people and get 50 different answers from different methods and items to use. Some will say clean after every shooting session, some say once a year some say never. As for me, I clean only when I believe the fouling is affecting function or accuracy, other than that I don't clean a 22 rimfire barrel. I don't know as I ever cleaned that Tikka T1x I sold rim-star.
When I do clean, my cleaning regime is very simple. I run two wet patches down the bore, I remove each patch at the muzzle, never pulling back through. I then run a wet copper brush through and out the muzzle and pull back through and I do this ten times. Some may remove the brush and never pull it back through and that's fine with me, people do what they want. As for me, I have never experienced a decrease in accuracy that I could say the root cause was pulling the brush back through the barrel. There's always a possibility to damage the crown but if you have to have confidence in what you do. After the ten strokes with the brush I run as many wet patches needed to get a clean one, usually three does it. After that I run 1-2 dry patches and I'm done. Some may wonder why I only run 10 strokes with a brush and why not 50 or 15 or "pick a number". The reason is because 1, I have never gotten a clean patch right after using a brush. In the past, say 25 years ago I used to brush the hell out of a barrel and thinking this might be the one, and every single time the first patch after brushing always came out black. What I'm saying is you will get the same results if you run that brush through 10 times or 100 times or 10 times in 10 different increments. First patch after the brush will ALWAYS come out black. That is why I decided on 10 strokes with a brush a long time ago. I use two wet patches in the beginning to remove all the loose powder and fouling. Usually takes 2-3 wet patches to get a clean one after brushing. Usually it takes 2 dry patches at the end to get a dry barrel. That's my cleaning method.
Equipment I use are Deweys one piece nylon coated rod in .17 caliber; you have to use their adapter to fit the .22 caliber jags and brushes. I use either Deweys or ProShot bronze/copper brushes, I use Parker-Hale brass jags, ProShot 1-1/8" square patches and Shooters Choice MC-7 bore cleaner and I have used it mixed 50/50 with Kroil. Another thing, I always use a rod guide if possible.
IMO, in the end, there's only two methods to never clean a barrel and those are from the muzzle end "unless you have no other option" and using a steel wire brush. Other than that pretty much anything goes. The most important thing you can do is have confidence in what you are doing.
I agree with KOD here, I am starting to think if the rifle is shooting and functioning well why clean it ? I know BR guys clean a lot, been there done that years ago, and it maybe is needed on a full blown custom rifle or even on certain factory rifles, I think if you search about cleaning the 22 you will find many, many theories about it and about how to do it. Seems I read on here about someone shooting 1000's of rounds and never cleaning the bore and they were still getting excellent accuracy.
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Another thing to keep in mind is that not all barrels react the same. Some may require brush cleaning after so many rounds. Like those BR guys, those rifles are so accurate that the owner can probably tell quicker than the guy with the factory rifle when their accuracy has dropped off. Even then they may only run patches through.
I don't necessarily believe cleaning a barrel leads to having to shoot "X" number of rounds to get the rifle shooting good again, again I believe it's rifle dependant. We had a discussion about this over on Rimfire Central a few years back and I did an experiment with my Anschutz 1710 XLR. The 1710 was shooting fine before cleaning. I not only cleaned this barrel with a brush I also used JB Bore Paste on it with the VFG felt cleaners. Below are groups I shot after cleaning with commentary if needed.
First photo simply showing first target being unshot.
Showing first shot of the cleaned barrel.
Next 4 shots.
In doing this test I also tested bipod vs a front rest, rear back setup. Read the notes at the top of the targets. I guess the results show why competitors don't use bipods in a BR match.
CCI SV, notice the difference in accuracy of this vs Lapua.
Here are the two setups used that day. The BR Rest setup was a little more accurate this day but not by much. I still prefer to shoot off bipods.
As you can see, cleaning had zero effect one way or another on accuracy. So, why clean and take a risk on damaging the barrel?? It's my belief to let the barrel tell you when it needs cleaning.
I don't necessarily believe cleaning a barrel leads to having to shoot "X" number of rounds to get the rifle shooting good again, again I believe it's rifle dependant. We had a discussion about this over on Rimfire Central a few years back and I did an experiment with my Anschutz 1710 XLR. The 1710 was shooting fine before cleaning. I not only cleaned this barrel with a brush I also used JB Bore Paste on it with the VFG felt cleaners. Below are groups I shot after cleaning with commentary if needed.
First photo simply showing first target being unshot.
Showing first shot of the cleaned barrel.
Next 4 shots.
In doing this test I also tested bipod vs a front rest, rear back setup. Read the notes at the top of the targets. I guess the results show why competitors don't use bipods in a BR match.
CCI SV, notice the difference in accuracy of this vs Lapua.
Here are the two setups used that day. The BR Rest setup was a little more accurate this day but not by much. I still prefer to shoot off bipods.
As you can see, cleaning had zero effect one way or another on accuracy. So, why clean and take a risk on damaging the barrel?? It's my belief to let the barrel tell you when it needs cleaning.
KOD - excellent commentary and practical testing.
By the looks of the cardboard back-stop, more than a few rounds have been shot at your private range.
Question: what is your experience with "seasoning" a barrel when shooting different manufacturer's rimfire ammo? 10 shots vs 1 shot per inch of barrel vs others. Asking because I'm trying to test out various ammo for a CZ457 Pro Varmint vs Savage B22 Precision comparison.
Thank you in advance.
By the looks of the cardboard back-stop, more than a few rounds have been shot at your private range.
Question: what is your experience with "seasoning" a barrel when shooting different manufacturer's rimfire ammo? 10 shots vs 1 shot per inch of barrel vs others. Asking because I'm trying to test out various ammo for a CZ457 Pro Varmint vs Savage B22 Precision comparison.
Thank you in advance.
To be consistent with everything I do I don't season a barrel. I go straight into another brand and start shooting groups. It's not uncommon for the first shot to be away from the next four. If that is the case I try and remember to make note of it on the target. Here are a few examples of this.
I have found that if I just don’t clean I will get a carbon ring and start getting a first round cold bore flyer after around 1200-1500 rounds. When I say cold I mean I can let the gun cool down for 15-20 minutes and get the flyer. It really screwed me in a match once. Basically every first round of every stage would be a flyer and if it was a small target it was enough for a miss. Since then I pull a bore snake through my bore after every range session with some bore solvent on it right before the brush. I also run a brush in just the chamber to knock out any carbon ring that might be forming every few hundred rounds. Other than that I will actually give my rifle a good cleaning about every 1500 rounds. With a good barrel my rifle seems to settle back in after 4-5 shots right back to its previous POI.
I have been using Bore Tech Carbon C4 to clean the carbon ring , its does a good job if you let it soak for about 30 mins, you can use a jag and a patch or even a Q -Tip with a small patch on it and let it soak.
How do you determine how deep to go? I never know if I'm past the ring or haven't reached it. I usually guess based on the 22 case length
The carbon ring forms just in front of the case mouth, I just push the patch in until I feel the rifling, you will see the black on the patch from the ring.
Thanks for everyone mentioning the issues regarding the carbon ring and cold bore shots. My T1X never had this issue, but after hundreds of rounds later, I started getting this cod bore 1st round issue. 
I guess just using my boresnake wasn’t good enough.
Will be performing a thorough cleaning today.
Good information everyone
I guess just using my boresnake wasn’t good enough.Will be performing a thorough cleaning today.
Good information everyone
This makes quick work out of the carbon ring.
Typical carbon build up. I can't really contribute the carbon ring to any accuracy issues I have had. It did hinder reliability once on a H&R Model M12 I had once.
Start of a carbon ring. These 3 photos were taken with my Lyman borescope.
Middle of the ring.
End of the ring "next to the start of the rifling".
Typical carbon build up. I can't really contribute the carbon ring to any accuracy issues I have had. It did hinder reliability once on a H&R Model M12 I had once.
Start of a carbon ring. These 3 photos were taken with my Lyman borescope.
Middle of the ring.
End of the ring "next to the start of the rifling".
I was not aware there is such a thing as a Calfee4 chamber. Can anyone shed more light on what that is?
TKH
Thank you for posting that. I had not seen that before.
One would think with this many chamber diameters Calfee is choosing his chamber diameter by the bore diameter of the barrel he is using?
TKH
Does anyone have solid info regarding the stock T1x chamber. Seems like it can’t be the Sporting...mine is sooo accurate. I thought someone slugged a T1x barrel but I can’t find that post.
Looks like a slightly lengthened (.600 vs .595)Eley S. A. Match chamber
I'm happy with my Calfee 4 chambered IBI barrel for my CZ 457. I'd buy another if I had a reason to.
Makepeace2000, good info thanks for sharing, I'll have to check that out.
Makepeace2000, good info thanks for sharing, I'll have to check that out.
Is the “block” people are removing from the stock, the rectanglar metal piece the action sets on? If so, how do you remove it? Pliers?
I already removed the plastic infill that was held in with a small bolt, which was touching them barrel.
I already removed the plastic infill that was held in with a small bolt, which was touching them barrel.
It was rainy most of the day here so i decided to swap scopes , clean guns and log assembly info. I have four 22 rifles that I shoot far more than any others. I have struggled with how I want each rifle set up and why. I think I have them how I want them now. After a fun morning of gun work/play , I went out to check on the weather. Woohoo! , the rain had stopped. I was able to head out back and enjoy the fruits. Got them all sighted in and had a little shootout. I usually avoid windy days like the plague but today it was swirling every direction at 5-15. Turns out it is awesome fun correcting for wind. It was also quite educational. I was shooting 50 yds and by the end I had a good feel for wind correction according to my flag. Good times.
Now that I have decided how I want my T1X to be , I have a few T1X goodies to part with but I cant post them for sale on this site because I am too new. Some of the rimfire central guys left me flat and Im not much interested in that site anymore. That being said I would like to offer the goodies to the guys on this site/this forum. Any thoughts on the matter?
Did some testing and found out my rifle really likes SK Standard Plus. Best groups were with Standard plus and best average if I didn´t count a flyer I caused myself.
Today I will verify drop-data out to 150m to really learn how to dial for the ammo. looking forward to it!
I will also try the new muzzle brake to see if it makes a difference in grouping!
Today I will verify drop-data out to 150m to really learn how to dial for the ammo. looking forward to it!
I will also try the new muzzle brake to see if it makes a difference in grouping!
Anyone know the status of Left Handed T1X's? Seem to be unobtanium but I may not know where to look...
Haven't seen one yet, but I did just buy a right hand one so I figure the Left hand ones will start showing up.
Hi guys I’ve been lurking for a while figured it was time to join up. I’m looking for opinions on a scope to run in base class for the T1x. I’m just getting my feet wet haven’t even been to a match yet but plan on joining some friends as well using this as a trainer for my T3. From my reading so far seems like the Vortex diamondback tactical and athlon Argos seem popular. I’m new to the long range game as far as holding over or dialing so I don’t really have a preference between mil or moa. I appreciate any insight.
Take a look at the Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25 x 56 look around and you can find pretty good deals on them. I would go with MIL as it is more universal as far as what others are using and is a little easier to use. MOA will work fine they are both just numbers. Though you may have good luck finding a used MOA scope at a good price.
The 17 HMR version in LH has appeared here in Canada, with word that the 22 LR won't land until 2021. What were they thinking???
thanksI’ll take a look at it butit’s price range would put me in open class
Can someone post close-up pics of T1x in Oryx chassis? In particular want to see how 22LR barrel looks near the front (gaps to chassis, proportions, etc)? Also want to know if there is space inside forehand for adding weight.
Many thanks - have been looking on internet/forum - could not find right angles.
Many thanks - have been looking on internet/forum - could not find right angles.
Alot of guys will run an Argos BTR Gen from Athlon. Pretty decent FFP scope for the price
Maketh no sense...Oh well. My son's a lefty and I think it'd be a good one for him. Good things come to those who wait?
I am not a patient man. But I am cheap, so I have resisted dumping my LH Tikka ecosystem for a custom action one. Hopefully the wait is worth it!
I wonder if you could get the LH hmr version, swap the barrel to an aftermarket .22 barrel (plus get a .22 magazine), then sell the hmr barrel? Rifles like the quad and cz455 can change from .22LR/.22MAG/.17HMR and its only the barrel and magazine being changed. Probably need to run it by a gunsmith, but just an idea.
