Tikka T1X

I shot it as it came from the factory, and it's doing pretty great so I'll probably just leave it. Just curious why it's not truly free floated to begin with.
The T1X uses the same stock as the T3X. The T1X action is shorter. The "shoehorn" is to fill in the gap so the T1X action doesn't look as out of place in the stock. It's for looks.
 
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Tikka T1X OPEN CLASS.jpg
 
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Anyone running an MDT xrs stock on t1x?
Yes... the XRS is too butt-heavy for the T1X with factory barrel, and I'm not swapping barrels. Even with Area 419 weighted ARCA, MDT fore-end weight insert and GrayOps 3-slot Mlok weights up front, the rifle doesn't balance far enough forward. If I were going to do it again, a PDC Customs G5C stock with all their weights would be a better setup at same price. Just my opinion... I have to leave the bipod on the XRS to get neutral balance, and really need to keep a weighted bag attached up front for NRL22X. https://www.pdccustom.com/product/rimfire-g5c/
 
Dude, you really like those T1x's. Very nice group of rifles. Or are there two different rifles in four different stocks?

Mike
3 Rifles, 4 stocks. The GRS Berzerk is an older T1X wire ejector with older Athlon Midas Tac. The XRS is a newer plastic ejector with Athlon Ares ETR 3-18x50 for NRL22X. The T3 wood stock and T1X OEM stock share a 3rd Tikka plastic ejector with Athlon 2-12x42 for NRL22 base class. Honestly the OEM stock shoots just as well and balances almost as well at the XRS, I wouldn't do the XRS again, too much weight in the butt. The wife thinks the wood stock is a great rifle and will shoot it, so easy swap back to the OEM stock for me. Try some SK Long Range Match in these things, it shoots better than Eley Match for me. The OEM T1X almost makes weight for CMP Rimfire Sporter... its a few ounces over 7.5# and the trigger is a # too light, but at our local CMP match nobody cares, so its a multipurpose rifle. Would be good for Appleseed too.
 
Can anyone save me some searching? Area 419 30moa base with a helos btr gen 2 34mm tube and 56 objective. Will 1” rings be enough for the objective and lens cap?
Depends on the lens cap... my 56mm has huge AADMount caps and needs Medium rings to clear with the DIP 25moa rail. 50mm Obj, 25moa rail and Low rings work fine. Pic is 56mm w/AADmount in Medium rings
TIKKA T1x MDT XRS FDE.jpg
 
Yes... the XRS is too butt-heavy for the T1X with factory barrel, and I'm not swapping barrels. Even with Area 419 weighted ARCA, MDT fore-end weight insert and GrayOps 3-slot Mlok weights up front, the rifle doesn't balance far enough forward. If I were going to do it again, a PDC Customs G5C stock with all their weights would be a better setup at same price. Just my opinion... I have to leave the bipod on the XRS to get neutral balance, and really need to keep a weighted bag attached up front for NRL22X. https://www.pdccustom.com/product/rimfire-g5c/
I guess almost all chassis except KRG Bravo will do this way. My Oryx with MDT Arca and bipod needs 1 kg of weights to be balanced
 
Yes... the XRS is too butt-heavy for the T1X with factory barrel, and I'm not swapping barrels. Even with Area 419 weighted ARCA, MDT fore-end weight insert and GrayOps 3-slot Mlok weights up front, the rifle doesn't balance far enough forward. If I were going to do it again, a PDC Customs G5C stock with all their weights would be a better setup at same price. Just my opinion... I have to leave the bipod on the XRS to get neutral balance, and really need to keep a weighted bag attached up front for NRL22X. https://www.pdccustom.com/product/rimfire-g5c/
Which barrel length?
 
Can anyone save me some searching? Area 419 30moa base with a helos btr gen 2 34mm tube and 56 objective. Will 1” rings be enough for the objective and lens cap?
Can anyone save me some searching? Area 419 30moa base with a helos btr gen 2 34mm tube and 56 objective. Will 1” rings be enough for the objective and lens cap?
No, that is my exact setup. You will need 1.18 to 1.26 rings.
 
Picked up my 20” yesterday they handed it to me to look over and the first thing I seen was 16.5” thought they ordered the wrong one they took in the back to inspect. Google searches led me back to this forum saying that’s the twist rate. Felt dumb lol
 
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Has anyone put one of these in a chassis that’s cut for LA AICS mags? I’m thinking about picking up a T1X and it would be sweet to be able to drop it in an MDT HNT26 for Tikka LA and be able to swap the chassis to a T3X 30-06 for hunting season. The LA AICS mags are a little narrower than the SA mags so I’m concerned about clearance for the T1X mags to fit and also have room to work the mag release.
 
Finished my T1X for now.... And also the mod I did so us lefties can use the MDT XRS Tikka T3X SA chassis.
I just needed to cut away the area from the factory mag catch to clearance the 22 magazine. I cut extra so I can reach behind the mag to strip it if it gets hung up, but not necessarily needed. I'm assuming it does void warranty with them but simplest option for a chassis I found for fellow left handed shooters.

Happy shooting!
-Alex
 

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I have been shooting our new T1x. Reduced the stock trigger as far as it will go, it's backed out against the trigger screw. Still feels like 5 pounds. Don't believe the yo-dave replacement spring will get me anywhere near 1 pound. Can I try a ball point pen spring? Not overly thrilled yet. My Contender carbine with after market barrel easily out shoots it with CCI SV. The 10 pound trigger is a handicap.
 
I have been shooting our new T1x. Reduced the stock trigger as far as it will go, it's backed out against the trigger screw. Still feels like 5 pounds. Don't believe the yo-dave replacement spring will get me anywhere near 1 pound. Can I try a ball point pen spring? Not overly thrilled yet. My Contender carbine with after market barrel easily out shoots it with CCI SV. The 10 pound trigger is a handicap.
Try and spring that will fit, I have done this many times. Just always follow the basic firearms safe handling practices (goes without saying) and you will be fine even if it fails to safely stay cocked.
 
I have been shooting our new T1x. Reduced the stock trigger as far as it will go, it's backed out against the trigger screw. Still feels like 5 pounds. Don't believe the yo-dave replacement spring will get me anywhere near 1 pound. Can I try a ball point pen spring? Not overly thrilled yet. My Contender carbine with after market barrel easily out shoots it with CCI SV. The 10 pound trigger is a handicap.
IIRC aren't they correct radial-dimensions. You can shorten them, but they tend to bind in the circular recess. Look around for the exact spring dimensions and this will possibly allow you to work around the binding issue. You may however get lucky if you have a billion different pens lying around.
 

Back when I used to modify factory triggers I would order springs from a spring vendor, but I can’t remember who it was now… give McMaster a look
 
I have been shooting our new T1x. Reduced the stock trigger as far as it will go, it's backed out against the trigger screw. Still feels like 5 pounds. Don't believe the yo-dave replacement spring will get me anywhere near 1 pound. Can I try a ball point pen spring? Not overly thrilled yet. My Contender carbine with after market barrel easily out shoots it with CCI SV. The 10 pound trigger is a handicap.
AR-15 bolt catch plunger springs work. Also make sure the trigger plunger isn't backwards.

There is also a tapered cone head trigger screw to allow more adjustment range out there, but can't recall who sells it.

ETA, found it, is from Australia:

 
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Thanks for replies, I have a couple of rifles that I put my finger behind the trigger when I close the bolt and don't trust the safety. I'll start tearing pens apart.
 
Picked up my left hand 20" t1x yesterday. Did the left hand conversion last night for my xrs I got on black friday.

Before starting
20230414_194225.jpg


Initial cuts.
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Had to take it apart to cut the mirrored relief for the safety.
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Most all cuts done with my Foredom SR. Dremel but better. The 3 bits I used. The cut off wheel to try to setup the location of the cuts. The right bit cut the plastic better and was used for most of the hogging. The left bit was used for the inside safety cuts.
20230415_105145.jpg


All cuts done before nail polish. Didn't take the safety cut as far down as the right side.
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After the nail polish. Used my wife's fancy internet nail polish. Holo Taco nail polish by Simply Nailogical. Black polish with a matte top coat. Had tiny bit of glitter in the top coat.
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Assembled.
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Lefty 20" 22lr T1x from Locked Loaded. Transferred by a coworker yesterday (we're aerospace machinists).
Area 419 30 moa rail
Thunderbeast 22 takedown
Atlas CAL No Dye limited edition bipod (thanks @Kasey) on RRS adapter and RRS lever clamp.

Temp scope is a leupold mark ar 3-9x40 sfp mismatched pos from 2009ish. Only other magnified optic I have is my Razor 2 on my T3X.

Future planned changes
Arken Ep5 mil.
Sterk (@cannoncrossfire) swept handle and Sterk TRG style shroud.

Haven't shot it yet.
 
Picked up my left hand 20" t1x yesterday. Did the left hand conversion last night for my xrs I got on black friday.

Before starting
View attachment 8120769

Initial cuts.
View attachment 8120770

Had to take it apart to cut the mirrored relief for the safety.
View attachment 8120771
View attachment 8120773

Most all cuts done with my Foredom SR. Dremel but better. The 3 bits I used. The cut off wheel to try to setup the location of the cuts. The right bit cut the plastic better and was used for most of the hogging. The left bit was used for the inside safety cuts.
View attachment 8120786

All cuts done before nail polish. Didn't take the safety cut as far down as the right side.
View attachment 8120777

After the nail polish. Used my wife's fancy internet nail polish. Holo Taco nail polish by Simply Nailogical. Black polish with a matte top coat. Had tiny bit of glitter in the top coat.
View attachment 8120778

Assembled.
View attachment 8120779

Lefty 20" 22lr T1x from Locked Loaded. Transferred by a coworker yesterday (we're aerospace machinists).
Area 419 30 moa rail
Thunderbeast 22 takedown
Atlas CAL No Dye limited edition bipod (thanks @Kasey) on RRS adapter and RRS lever clamp.

Temp scope is a leupold mark ar 3-9x40 sfp mismatched pos from 2009ish. Only other magnified optic I have is my Razor 2 on my T3X.

Future planned changes
Arken Ep5 mil.
Sterk (@cannoncrossfire) swept handle and Sterk TRG style shroud.

Haven't shot it yet.
Any particular reason you got a RH XRS and not the lefty?

Wait I see, you got the RH T1X and did the bolt handle conversion..... instead of getting the lefty T3X and modifying the mag catch.

Looks great, my initial testing on my gun surprisingly really likes the Federal Auto Match, already proofed it out to 430.
 
Any particular reason you got a RH XRS and not the lefty?

Wait I see, you got the RH T1X and did the bolt handle conversion..... instead of getting the lefty T3X and modifying the mag catch.

Looks great, my initial testing on my gun surprisingly really likes the Federal Auto Match, already proofed it out to 430.
Got it on black Friday for the normal price of a krg bravo. Black Friday availability is what drove it. Was originally going to get the bravo but then I decided to get the xrs to make it different than my T3X.

The only gun related doubles that I have from the same company are my Savages (that I'm trying to sell), my 2 Thunderbeasts, and these 2 tikkas. Having them in different brand chassis makes them different enough. All my other guns are different brands. Sig, sti/ grand power, ruger, Remington, pof/stag, S&W, and Beretta. Now my 2 tikkas are tikka/krg and tikka/MDT.
 
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Just picked up my brand new left handed T1X and didn't notice that it was missing the bolt release assembly.. :cry:

Anyone know if there's a difference between the left hand and right hand bolt release assembly? Anyone have recommendations on where I can pick one up? Am I the only unlucky doofus to not notice missing parts? lol
 

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Just picked up my brand new left handed T1X and didn't notice that it was missing the bolt release assembly.. :cry:

Anyone know if there's a difference between the left hand and right hand bolt release assembly? Anyone have recommendations on where I can pick one up? Am I the only unlucky doofus to not notice missing parts? lol

I'd also complain to whomever you bought it from. Sadly it's on you to inspect it before accepting a transfer. While it's possible it left the factory like that the more likely scenario is someone helped themselves to a part for a repair.
 
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I'd also complain to whomever you bought it from. Sadly it's on you to inspect it before accepting a transfer. While it's possible it left the factory like that the more likely scenario is someone helped themselves to a part for a repair.
An extra $50 just to get the whole gun.. my own fault for buying from a drop shipper lol. Thank you, I'll look around and see if there's some cheaper after market parts, maybe decide on a couple more mags before buying.
 
An extra $50 just to get the whole gun.. my own fault for buying from a drop shipper lol. Thank you, I'll look around and see if there's some cheaper after market parts, maybe decide on a couple more mags before buying.
Could try and contact Beretta. They might just send you one.

Congrats on the lefty! Hope you get it running soon.
 
Re: action screw torques
I recently picked up a new T1x w/16.5” barrel.
After a thorough cleaning I took it to the range and put a few mags of CCI sv through it to foul the barrel.
Then I shot 5 round groups at 50 yds with every variety of ammo I had from Center X down to cheap bulk pack. Most groups ran 1-1.5” even the center x was almost 1”.
This seemed like poor performance, so after checking everything else I decided to check the action screws, both were very tight. I would guess 50-60lb. After resetting to 25 front and 15 rear. I shot more groups and saw immediate results. Most groups shrank to half or less of the previous group.
pictures are center x and cci sv before and after changing torque.
 

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Apologies if this has been asked but I was unable to find it if that’s the case.
Which MDT chassis would work well (including: no need to modify) for a left-handed Tikka T1x ?
To my knowledge there isn't one. I opted to get the LH Tikka T3 XRS stock and remove the mag catch on the chassis to clearance for the 22LR mags. It's not a very had mod at all and IMO looks a bit cleaner in the end.

Also when you take the skins off of the XRS you can see the trigger guard is bolted in, I'm guessing that if I wanted to convert back I could possibly buy a new trigger guard with mag catch from MDT.
 

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To my knowledge there isn't one. I opted to get the LH Tikka T3 XRS stock and remove the mag catch on the chassis to clearance for the 22LR mags. It's not a very had mod at all and IMO looks a bit cleaner in the end.

Also when you take the skins off of the XRS you can see the trigger guard is bolted in, I'm guessing that if I wanted to convert back I could possibly buy a new trigger guard with mag catch from MDT.
That looks like the easier option. Looks great.
 
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That looks like the easier option. Looks great.
Thank you, I've seen a lot of people doing the bolt handle mod and yours looks great as well but I gunsmith full-time and when it comes down to my own projects I try to keep it stupid simple since I don't really "make" money while doing my own projects.
 
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Thank you, I've seen a lot of people doing the bolt handle mod and yours looks great as well but I gunsmith full-time and when it comes down to my own projects I try to keep it stupid simple since I don't really "make" money while doing my own projects.
If I had a mill I would've done it that way. Makes sense.
 
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I've got one on my T1x and I have max stack of spacers on there, with the stock, stock. It looks great, looks like it was part of it
For those that have the Victor Company Cheek Rest have you found any clearance issues in regards to bolt removal and/or inserting a bore guide for cleaning? I like the clean look of the Victor cheek rest but concerned about causing clearance issues. I don't want to be constantly removing it for maintenance. Thinking of getting the Kalixtechnik instead because of this but don't like the look (or cost) as much.
 
For those that have the Victor Company Cheek Rest have you found any clearance issues in regards to bolt removal and/or inserting a bore guide for cleaning? I like the clean look of the Victor cheek rest but concerned about causing clearance issues. I don't want to be constantly removing it for maintenance. Thinking of getting the Kalixtechnik instead because of this but don't like the look (or cost) as much.
none, and I have maxed out spacers and I think one more than what the official max is

the victor co is slick af, looks good
 
For those that have the Victor Company Cheek Rest have you found any clearance issues in regards to bolt removal and/or inserting a bore guide for cleaning? I like the clean look of the Victor cheek rest but concerned about causing clearance issues. I don't want to be constantly removing it for maintenance. Thinking of getting the Kalixtechnik instead because of this but don't like the look (or cost) as much.
I positioned mine so the bolt could be removed with the cheek rest in place.

For cleaning I do remove it but I didn't use the drywall screws they included. I bought a pack of threaded rivet nuts and machine screws. I then drilled undersized holes in the top of the comb then placed each rivet nut on a soldering iron to heat them up then pressed them in to each hole. As long as you don't tighten the screws with gorilla strength the nuts hold up fine.