The T1X uses the same stock as the T3X. The T1X action is shorter. The "shoehorn" is to fill in the gap so the T1X action doesn't look as out of place in the stock. It's for looks.
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Dude, you really like those T1x's. Very nice group of rifles. Or are there two different rifles in four different stocks?
Mike
Mike
Yes... the XRS is too butt-heavy for the T1X with factory barrel, and I'm not swapping barrels. Even with Area 419 weighted ARCA, MDT fore-end weight insert and GrayOps 3-slot Mlok weights up front, the rifle doesn't balance far enough forward. If I were going to do it again, a PDC Customs G5C stock with all their weights would be a better setup at same price. Just my opinion... I have to leave the bipod on the XRS to get neutral balance, and really need to keep a weighted bag attached up front for NRL22X. https://www.pdccustom.com/product/rimfire-g5c/
3 Rifles, 4 stocks. The GRS Berzerk is an older T1X wire ejector with older Athlon Midas Tac. The XRS is a newer plastic ejector with Athlon Ares ETR 3-18x50 for NRL22X. The T3 wood stock and T1X OEM stock share a 3rd Tikka plastic ejector with Athlon 2-12x42 for NRL22 base class. Honestly the OEM stock shoots just as well and balances almost as well at the XRS, I wouldn't do the XRS again, too much weight in the butt. The wife thinks the wood stock is a great rifle and will shoot it, so easy swap back to the OEM stock for me. Try some SK Long Range Match in these things, it shoots better than Eley Match for me. The OEM T1X almost makes weight for CMP Rimfire Sporter... its a few ounces over 7.5# and the trigger is a # too light, but at our local CMP match nobody cares, so its a multipurpose rifle. Would be good for Appleseed too.
Can anyone save me some searching? Area 419 30moa base with a helos btr gen 2 34mm tube and 56 objective. Will 1” rings be enough for the objective and lens cap?
Depends on the lens cap... my 56mm has huge AADMount caps and needs Medium rings to clear with the DIP 25moa rail. 50mm Obj, 25moa rail and Low rings work fine. Pic is 56mm w/AADmount in Medium rings
If a 20in varmit or ctr won't balance in a bravo, the 20in t1x has no chance...
All of my T1Xs are 20"... if you keep an ARCA bag & frame attached, you can get decent balance. I leave the bipod on as much as possible for more weight up front. Its seems a shame to rebarrel a T1X just for more weight/better balance, when the factory barrels shoot so well.
No, that is my exact setup. You will need 1.18 to 1.26 rings.
Ordered my lefty 20" t1x today along with the area419 rail. Thinking of going ep5 once I get the funds built up or get my Savages sold. Any idea on heights needed for it?
Whichever height is the most comfortable for you, I had medium then high on mine. It's in the px.
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Thanks for the info. Just received earlier this week.If anyone needs firing pins, BoreBuddy is producing them:
Tikka T1x Hardened Firing Pin
Turned on a precision Swiss lathe and heat treated to our proprietary specifications. Compatible with all Tikka T1x variants in both 22LR and 17HMR. Buy with confidence with BoreBuddy’s has…borebuddy.com
Has anyone put one of these in a chassis that’s cut for LA AICS mags? I’m thinking about picking up a T1X and it would be sweet to be able to drop it in an MDT HNT26 for Tikka LA and be able to swap the chassis to a T3X 30-06 for hunting season. The LA AICS mags are a little narrower than the SA mags so I’m concerned about clearance for the T1X mags to fit and also have room to work the mag release.
Finished my T1X for now.... And also the mod I did so us lefties can use the MDT XRS Tikka T3X SA chassis.
I just needed to cut away the area from the factory mag catch to clearance the 22 magazine. I cut extra so I can reach behind the mag to strip it if it gets hung up, but not necessarily needed. I'm assuming it does void warranty with them but simplest option for a chassis I found for fellow left handed shooters.
Happy shooting!
-Alex
I just needed to cut away the area from the factory mag catch to clearance the 22 magazine. I cut extra so I can reach behind the mag to strip it if it gets hung up, but not necessarily needed. I'm assuming it does void warranty with them but simplest option for a chassis I found for fellow left handed shooters.
Happy shooting!
-Alex
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I have been shooting our new T1x. Reduced the stock trigger as far as it will go, it's backed out against the trigger screw. Still feels like 5 pounds. Don't believe the yo-dave replacement spring will get me anywhere near 1 pound. Can I try a ball point pen spring? Not overly thrilled yet. My Contender carbine with after market barrel easily out shoots it with CCI SV. The 10 pound trigger is a handicap.
Try and spring that will fit, I have done this many times. Just always follow the basic firearms safe handling practices (goes without saying) and you will be fine even if it fails to safely stay cocked.
IIRC aren't they correct radial-dimensions. You can shorten them, but they tend to bind in the circular recess. Look around for the exact spring dimensions and this will possibly allow you to work around the binding issue. You may however get lucky if you have a billion different pens lying around.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com
Back when I used to modify factory triggers I would order springs from a spring vendor, but I can’t remember who it was now… give McMaster a look
AR-15 bolt catch plunger springs work. Also make sure the trigger plunger isn't backwards.
There is also a tapered cone head trigger screw to allow more adjustment range out there, but can't recall who sells it.
ETA, found it, is from Australia:
Trigger Bolt Titanium | HVHA
Fits all Sako 85, 75 and A7 models and calibers. Also Fits Tikka T3, T3X, M595, M695, Manufactured using grade 5 titanium, Head design allows for greater trigger adjustment range, High corrosion resistance, Weighs only 3 Grams, Fitment can be achieved in less than 5 minutes, 100% Lifetime...
highvelocityhuntingaustralia.com.au
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That doesn't sound right. Are you sure you want to fix it yourself, and not start a warranty claim?
Picked up my left hand 20" t1x yesterday. Did the left hand conversion last night for my xrs I got on black friday.
Before starting
Initial cuts.
Had to take it apart to cut the mirrored relief for the safety.
Most all cuts done with my Foredom SR. Dremel but better. The 3 bits I used. The cut off wheel to try to setup the location of the cuts. The right bit cut the plastic better and was used for most of the hogging. The left bit was used for the inside safety cuts.
All cuts done before nail polish. Didn't take the safety cut as far down as the right side.
After the nail polish. Used my wife's fancy internet nail polish. Holo Taco nail polish by Simply Nailogical. Black polish with a matte top coat. Had tiny bit of glitter in the top coat.
Assembled.
Lefty 20" 22lr T1x from Locked Loaded. Transferred by a coworker yesterday (we're aerospace machinists).
Area 419 30 moa rail
Thunderbeast 22 takedown
Atlas CAL No Dye limited edition bipod (thanks @Kasey) on RRS adapter and RRS lever clamp.
Temp scope is a leupold mark ar 3-9x40 sfp mismatched pos from 2009ish. Only other magnified optic I have is my Razor 2 on my T3X.
Future planned changes
Arken Ep5 mil.
Sterk (@cannoncrossfire) swept handle and Sterk TRG style shroud.
Haven't shot it yet.
Before starting
Initial cuts.
Had to take it apart to cut the mirrored relief for the safety.
Most all cuts done with my Foredom SR. Dremel but better. The 3 bits I used. The cut off wheel to try to setup the location of the cuts. The right bit cut the plastic better and was used for most of the hogging. The left bit was used for the inside safety cuts.
All cuts done before nail polish. Didn't take the safety cut as far down as the right side.
After the nail polish. Used my wife's fancy internet nail polish. Holo Taco nail polish by Simply Nailogical. Black polish with a matte top coat. Had tiny bit of glitter in the top coat.
Assembled.
Lefty 20" 22lr T1x from Locked Loaded. Transferred by a coworker yesterday (we're aerospace machinists).
Area 419 30 moa rail
Thunderbeast 22 takedown
Atlas CAL No Dye limited edition bipod (thanks @Kasey) on RRS adapter and RRS lever clamp.
Temp scope is a leupold mark ar 3-9x40 sfp mismatched pos from 2009ish. Only other magnified optic I have is my Razor 2 on my T3X.
Future planned changes
Arken Ep5 mil.
Sterk (@cannoncrossfire) swept handle and Sterk TRG style shroud.
Haven't shot it yet.
Any particular reason you got a RH XRS and not the lefty?
Wait I see, you got the RH T1X and did the bolt handle conversion..... instead of getting the lefty T3X and modifying the mag catch.
Looks great, my initial testing on my gun surprisingly really likes the Federal Auto Match, already proofed it out to 430.
Got it on black Friday for the normal price of a krg bravo. Black Friday availability is what drove it. Was originally going to get the bravo but then I decided to get the xrs to make it different than my T3X.
The only gun related doubles that I have from the same company are my Savages (that I'm trying to sell), my 2 Thunderbeasts, and these 2 tikkas. Having them in different brand chassis makes them different enough. All my other guns are different brands. Sig, sti/ grand power, ruger, Remington, pof/stag, S&W, and Beretta. Now my 2 tikkas are tikka/krg and tikka/MDT.
Just picked up my brand new left handed T1X and didn't notice that it was missing the bolt release assembly..
Anyone know if there's a difference between the left hand and right hand bolt release assembly? Anyone have recommendations on where I can pick one up? Am I the only unlucky doofus to not notice missing parts? lol
Anyone know if there's a difference between the left hand and right hand bolt release assembly? Anyone have recommendations on where I can pick one up? Am I the only unlucky doofus to not notice missing parts? lol
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Just picked up my brand new left handed T1X and didn't notice that it was missing the bolt release assembly..
Anyone know if there's a difference between the left hand and right hand bolt release assembly? Anyone have recommendations on where I can pick one up? Am I the only unlucky doofus to not notice missing parts? lol
Tikka T1x Bolt Release Assembly
Check out the deal on Tikka T1x Bolt Release Assembly at MGW
I'd also complain to whomever you bought it from. Sadly it's on you to inspect it before accepting a transfer. While it's possible it left the factory like that the more likely scenario is someone helped themselves to a part for a repair.
An extra $50 just to get the whole gun.. my own fault for buying from a drop shipper lol. Thank you, I'll look around and see if there's some cheaper after market parts, maybe decide on a couple more mags before buying.Tikka T1x Bolt Release Assembly
Check out the deal on Tikka T1x Bolt Release Assembly at MGWwww.midwestgunworks.com
I'd also complain to whomever you bought it from. Sadly it's on you to inspect it before accepting a transfer. While it's possible it left the factory like that the more likely scenario is someone helped themselves to a part for a repair.
Could try and contact Beretta. They might just send you one.
Congrats on the lefty! Hope you get it running soon.
Re: action screw torques
I recently picked up a new T1x w/16.5” barrel.
After a thorough cleaning I took it to the range and put a few mags of CCI sv through it to foul the barrel.
Then I shot 5 round groups at 50 yds with every variety of ammo I had from Center X down to cheap bulk pack. Most groups ran 1-1.5” even the center x was almost 1”.
This seemed like poor performance, so after checking everything else I decided to check the action screws, both were very tight. I would guess 50-60lb. After resetting to 25 front and 15 rear. I shot more groups and saw immediate results. Most groups shrank to half or less of the previous group.
pictures are center x and cci sv before and after changing torque.
I recently picked up a new T1x w/16.5” barrel.
After a thorough cleaning I took it to the range and put a few mags of CCI sv through it to foul the barrel.
Then I shot 5 round groups at 50 yds with every variety of ammo I had from Center X down to cheap bulk pack. Most groups ran 1-1.5” even the center x was almost 1”.
This seemed like poor performance, so after checking everything else I decided to check the action screws, both were very tight. I would guess 50-60lb. After resetting to 25 front and 15 rear. I shot more groups and saw immediate results. Most groups shrank to half or less of the previous group.
pictures are center x and cci sv before and after changing torque.
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I just installed this pillar kit and DIP bottom metal in mine.
Am curious to see if taking it past 30 inch pounds is now beneficial.
Am curious to see if taking it past 30 inch pounds is now beneficial.
To my knowledge there isn't one. I opted to get the LH Tikka T3 XRS stock and remove the mag catch on the chassis to clearance for the 22LR mags. It's not a very had mod at all and IMO looks a bit cleaner in the end.
Also when you take the skins off of the XRS you can see the trigger guard is bolted in, I'm guessing that if I wanted to convert back I could possibly buy a new trigger guard with mag catch from MDT.
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Thank you, I've seen a lot of people doing the bolt handle mod and yours looks great as well but I gunsmith full-time and when it comes down to my own projects I try to keep it stupid simple since I don't really "make" money while doing my own projects.
If I had a mill I would've done it that way. Makes sense.
For those that have the Victor Company Cheek Rest have you found any clearance issues in regards to bolt removal and/or inserting a bore guide for cleaning? I like the clean look of the Victor cheek rest but concerned about causing clearance issues. I don't want to be constantly removing it for maintenance. Thinking of getting the Kalixtechnik instead because of this but don't like the look (or cost) as much.
none, and I have maxed out spacers and I think one more than what the official max is
the victor co is slick af, looks good
Thanks for the reply. I was sure I read somewhere that people had had issues but I was not able to find those comments again so I must have been mistaken. Happy to hear that it wont cause any issues and sounds like the way to go.
I positioned mine so the bolt could be removed with the cheek rest in place.
For cleaning I do remove it but I didn't use the drywall screws they included. I bought a pack of threaded rivet nuts and machine screws. I then drilled undersized holes in the top of the comb then placed each rivet nut on a soldering iron to heat them up then pressed them in to each hole. As long as you don't tighten the screws with gorilla strength the nuts hold up fine.
