I like the 20 because it is closer to the feel of my hunting rifle. I think there is a noticeable difference in the report with longer barrels as well, if not suppressed. To each there own, no right answer.
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
In case anyone is wondering about returning mags. I just got off the phone with Beretta USA and here is what the guy told me.
1. If the mag was shipped with the rifle you can return it for evaluation and Beretta will determine how to proceed.
2. If you purchased the mag from the Beretta USA site then you will need to return it to the .com site to get replacements.
3. If you purchased from another dealer you will need to return to the dealer you purchased from in order to get replacements.
Now the Beretta rep did say if I had issues with returning my mags to the dealer I purchased from(gunprodeals.com) then I could send them to Beretta USA for evaluation and they would determine how to proceed.
I’m screwed a little as Mine will likely have to go back to Beretta as gunprodeals.com return policy is terrible. We shall see.
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They will know once I try to send in 3 or 4 that I’m having an issue with. With 1 mag only I’m sure they don’t know.
So reading this thread, it seems like everyone has different variety of trigger weight / spring luck. While my ejector has been great now through the last 300 rounds, my trigger weight doesn't seem to go down..
I can't get the screw to really come close to touching the action screw, if it does then when I lower the bolt, the trigger uncocks itself. I've had a few times where I got it to stay cocked, but the littlest touch will set off the trigger. Then I'll turn it like 1/10 a turn, really small minute turn, and I kept doing it until it was stable... as in 25 times without any incident. This leaves me around 2 lb 14 oz.
I got a new spring today, and did the same thing. Spring was definitely a lot thinner than the thick stock spring. Same methodology of finding a stable weight. It looks like the trigger screw is a little deeper even, it won't go out the same amount as the original spring without becoming unstable. At the reliable weight I'm at now is 2lb 8oz. So I've managed to reduce the weight by 0.5 lbs, but I was hoping to have my rifle at 1.5-2lbs.
Any other issue where maybe it's not just the spring, but something else to adjust? When I was doing my testing, the rifle was upside down, as in scope touching the ground, does gravity/upside down have any issues with running the trigger?
I pinged the spring company to see their thoughts... but it seems like some people on this forum got the stock trigger down sub 2 lbs, and I'm no where close, even with a lighter spring.
My T3X is at 2lb 4z with the stock spring. I was considering taking this new spring and sticking it in my T3X to see how it would hold up, but that's a lot of taking things apart.
Thoughts?
I can't get the screw to really come close to touching the action screw, if it does then when I lower the bolt, the trigger uncocks itself. I've had a few times where I got it to stay cocked, but the littlest touch will set off the trigger. Then I'll turn it like 1/10 a turn, really small minute turn, and I kept doing it until it was stable... as in 25 times without any incident. This leaves me around 2 lb 14 oz.
I got a new spring today, and did the same thing. Spring was definitely a lot thinner than the thick stock spring. Same methodology of finding a stable weight. It looks like the trigger screw is a little deeper even, it won't go out the same amount as the original spring without becoming unstable. At the reliable weight I'm at now is 2lb 8oz. So I've managed to reduce the weight by 0.5 lbs, but I was hoping to have my rifle at 1.5-2lbs.
Any other issue where maybe it's not just the spring, but something else to adjust? When I was doing my testing, the rifle was upside down, as in scope touching the ground, does gravity/upside down have any issues with running the trigger?
I pinged the spring company to see their thoughts... but it seems like some people on this forum got the stock trigger down sub 2 lbs, and I'm no where close, even with a lighter spring.
My T3X is at 2lb 4z with the stock spring. I was considering taking this new spring and sticking it in my T3X to see how it would hold up, but that's a lot of taking things apart.
Thoughts?
So I had time... so I took both my T3X CTR and my T1X out of their bravos and swapped springs back and forth...
Original T1X, spring backed out reliable - 2lb 14oz
Original T3X, spring backed out where it was riding the action screw - 2lb 6oz.
T1X with new spring - backed out reliably - 2lb 4oz
T3X with new spring - backed in as far as it would go w/o halting trigger - 1lb 6oz (can't get it heavier...) I did test it by slamming it on the floor multiple times and it looks drop safe... 1 wanted it at exactly 1lb 8oz (1.5 lbs) just for round numbers, but couldn't it any higher.
T1X with the old T3X spring - backed out where it was hitting the action screw - 2lb 8oz.
No idea if there's just some faultyness with the T1X not being able to lessen < 2lb 4oz... not sure why the spring in the T3X gives me from 8z to 1lb 6oz...
Also from looking at both triggers, aren't they the exact same trigger??
Original T1X, spring backed out reliable - 2lb 14oz
Original T3X, spring backed out where it was riding the action screw - 2lb 6oz.
T1X with new spring - backed out reliably - 2lb 4oz
T3X with new spring - backed in as far as it would go w/o halting trigger - 1lb 6oz (can't get it heavier...) I did test it by slamming it on the floor multiple times and it looks drop safe... 1 wanted it at exactly 1lb 8oz (1.5 lbs) just for round numbers, but couldn't it any higher.
T1X with the old T3X spring - backed out where it was hitting the action screw - 2lb 8oz.
No idea if there's just some faultyness with the T1X not being able to lessen < 2lb 4oz... not sure why the spring in the T3X gives me from 8z to 1lb 6oz...
Also from looking at both triggers, aren't they the exact same trigger??
Exact same triggers.
I've got 7 tikka triggers all with lighter springs, I just use the wolff gun springs mini coil pack from Brownells and cut the springs a little longer then the standard tikka spring. I've probably used the kit to do about 20 or so triggers on mate's rifles including a sprinkling of Howa HACT triggers. I've got one trigger out of the 7 that has significantly more creep than the others. I can swap any of the triggers onto the T1X and they will work however one required winding the adjustment screw in a little to make it drop safe.
It would seem that machining tolerances can make small differences.
Swap your T3X trigger on to the T1X and confirm weight using the lighter spring. It sounds like something is amiss with your T1X trigger or the bolt, cocking piece etc. This will narrow down and exclude or confirm the trigger is the issue.
Every Tikka I've seen with issues has had the adjustment screw backed out too far taking any preload off the standard spring.
I've got 7 tikka triggers all with lighter springs, I just use the wolff gun springs mini coil pack from Brownells and cut the springs a little longer then the standard tikka spring. I've probably used the kit to do about 20 or so triggers on mate's rifles including a sprinkling of Howa HACT triggers. I've got one trigger out of the 7 that has significantly more creep than the others. I can swap any of the triggers onto the T1X and they will work however one required winding the adjustment screw in a little to make it drop safe.
It would seem that machining tolerances can make small differences.
Swap your T3X trigger on to the T1X and confirm weight using the lighter spring. It sounds like something is amiss with your T1X trigger or the bolt, cocking piece etc. This will narrow down and exclude or confirm the trigger is the issue.
Every Tikka I've seen with issues has had the adjustment screw backed out too far taking any preload off the standard spring.
Thanks for the reply! I swapped the trigger from the T3X to my T1X and it behaves exactly as it did... so it looks like something is wrong with the trigger unit itself. T3X trigger w/ lighter spring on my T1X will consistently pull @ .75 - 1.4 lbs depending on the spring. I've left it at 1lb right now and did a bunch of drop safety tests.
Mounting the T1X trigger to the T3X it's stuck at the 2.5 lb as it's lowest adjustment. Not sure what internal mechanisms in the trigger that might be causing it to not accept the lighter spring / change much.
Submitted my 6x5 today! 100 yards with light wind. After reinstalling my trigger/action multiple times, it looks like there was some shift for my zero. I should check my 25yd zero again.
But from today it looks like 2.3mil up for 100 yards, and 8mil up for 200 yards.
But from today it looks like 2.3mil up for 100 yards, and 8mil up for 200 yards.
I had 40 rounds of Eley Match Biathlon, so I wanted to see how the rifle would do. I shot 10 rounds to foul/lube the barrel with Eley Match and then 30 rounds on the 6x5.
I haven't tried Center-X, but I do want something better than SK Standard Plus...
@ 100 yards.
I haven't tried Center-X, but I do want something better than SK Standard Plus...
@ 100 yards.
Well, we finally gave up on my sons Ruger PR and ordered him a Tikka T1x and a KRG Bravo. I should have it in hand by the end of the week. I told him when he can shoot better than his rifle I would buy him a new one. Well it got to the point that the rifle was holding him back in matches. I tried replacing the barrel and going lightweight and I just couldn’t get one of the light weight barrels to shoot. I considered just putting a better barrel on his Ruger but after he shot mine a few times he fell in love with it. He just kept raving about how much he loved the bolt which has always been a sore spot with the Ruger.
That's great, I have both the Ruger PR and the Tikka (3 total) so I know how subpar the Ruger is and how great the Tikka is. I predict the Tikka T1x will take over the rimfire world. It has the combinations to do that. Doesn't cost a lot, (way less that $500) fantastic rifle right out of the box with really no need to do anything except add a rings or a rail and rings and a scope. The heart of the rifle, "receiver, bolt and trigger" are way better than anything out there in its price range and better than a lot of rifles above its price range. Although really good, Tikka didn't spend a lot on the stock. IMO, they did that to keep cost down and they thought people would want to invest into something more personal fitting and custom. Magazines, they don't get any better, ten rounds standard vs five for most rifles, so small in size, you can put a few in your front pocket, tapered at the top so feeding is a can't miss, really easy to load and not as expensive as most magazines. I haven't even talked about the barrel....do I need to? 
That's great, I have both the Ruger PR and the Tikka (3 total) so I know how subpar the Ruger is and how great the Tikka is. I predict the Tikka T1x will take over the rimfire world. It has the combinations to do that. Doesn't cost a lot, (way less that $500) fantastic rifle right out of the box with really no need to do anything except add a rings or a rail and rings and a scope. The heart of the rifle, "receiver, bolt and trigger" are way better than anything out there in its price range and better than a lot of rifles above its price range. Although really good, Tikka didn't spend a lot on the stock. IMO, they did that to keep cost down and they thought people would want to invest into something more personal fitting and custom. Magazines, they don't get any better, ten rounds standard vs five for most rifles, so small in size, you can put a few in your front pocket, tapered at the top so feeding is a can't miss, really easy to load and not as expensive as most magazines. I haven't even talked about the barrel....do I need to?
I would like to know where you are getting them for way less than $500. If that is still a thing, I'd love to know as I am on the fence.
Got my 30MOA base and Vortex rings installed last week. Ammo order came in the mail today, so I took the T1X out to see how it would group. Tested SK Rifle Match, Wolf MT, and Lapua Center-X.
As a whole, it seemed to like Center-X the most, but Wolf MT had some great groups as well. Maybe just as good. At 11 cpr, it will probably be my go to ammo.
I didn't get to shoot much at 100 yds but did get one decent group with Center-X.
The trigger pull was bothering me; I'm confident I can tighten these up with a lighter spring, which should be here this week. I'll try to shoot some 6x5s after I get it installed. Need to get my RAR out as well and see how it compares.
Oh, and no FTEs or FTFs today. Bolt is really smooth now too after only a couple hundred rounds.
I use raise.com, bought a bunch for 12% off, and they also have promotions for an additional $20 off here and there..
Don't your local FFLs charge a transfer fee when getting it from an online broker? For me, they charge me $25 or so to receive/transfer the firearm to me. So I try to order locally where possible, or Cabela's...
So I made it out to my local benchrest match on Sunday and man do I love the Oryx chassis.
Unfortunately after modifying my ejection spring I may have created a new issue, definitely my fault. I am getting consistent ejections, but now it’s hard to feed and will sometimes deform the rounds.
Accuracy has only improved since installing the Oryx, but do to sometimes deforming a round, I will have a flier. Anyone know of any aftermarket ejecting springs or if Beretta will mail out a replacement?
50 yard
100 yard
Unfortunately after modifying my ejection spring I may have created a new issue, definitely my fault. I am getting consistent ejections, but now it’s hard to feed and will sometimes deform the rounds.
Accuracy has only improved since installing the Oryx, but do to sometimes deforming a round, I will have a flier. Anyone know of any aftermarket ejecting springs or if Beretta will mail out a replacement?
50 yard
100 yard
I would be curious about having the spring sent as well. I seem to have gotten the bend right, even though I thought I mucked it up on the second tweak. Had no FTE's in 100 rounds. I would gladly pay $10 for a 10 cent part if anyone does an aftermarket offering just to eliminate the issue.
I'm curious how
I'm curious how your results are! Make sure to foul the barrel with the new round with 10-20 shots before doing your groups. Right now my best 6x5 average for SK Standard Plus is around 1.1" @ 100 yards. Eley Match is .86", and CCI SV is around 1.4". If you have a good lot of CCI SV, with small variation in velocity I think it would group well. Ignoring my top right group, most of the groups were more vertical stringing, then random.
I'm curious about center-x ~ 22 cents a round, and rifle match ~ 17 cents a round. Right now I have about 1000 rounds of SK Standard Plus and 500 rounds of CCI SV left.
I'm curious how your results are! Make sure to foul the barrel with the new round with 10-20 shots before doing your groups. Right now my best 6x5 average for SK Standard Plus is around 1.1" @ 100 yards. Eley Match is .86", and CCI SV is around 1.4". If you have a good lot of CCI SV, with small variation in velocity I think it would group well. Ignoring my top right group, most of the groups were more vertical stringing, then random.
I'm curious about center-x ~ 22 cents a round, and rifle match ~ 17 cents a round. Right now I have about 1000 rounds of SK Standard Plus and 500 rounds of CCI SV left.
Well I bought the center x for 9.99 a box and the sk rifle match for 7.29 a box. I got the CCI standard for 2.38 a box and bought a 5k case of it. The federal match (922a) I got for 5.10 a box on gunbroker. I don’t clean my 22’s very often. I let you know how it works out.
Ah... that's a good price for rifle match. I usually see it for $8.50ish. Though I notice today I can get 500 rounds for around $85 after shipping, so that's not bad. Wondering if the bump up to center-x is worth it. Let me know how your shooting goes tomorrow, and maybe I'll order 500 in center-x or rifle match depending on your results
That's some great shooting! Front and rear rests? I can't wait to see what it does at 100.
I have a CZ452 that shoots consistent .35", but with Midas Plus. I'm wanting a T1X but worried I won't get one like yours!! Great move buying a case of that lot of CCISV!!
922a has been working out really well for me. Unfortunately, even at the discounted price I’m getting, it’s $12 a box for me. Perks of living in Alaska I guess.
Ole. Get on gun broker. The keep putting up 750 rounds going for 72 dollars shipped. That is 5.10 a box. I have bought 1500 rounds that way
Bore Tech is now shipping their T1X Bore Guides. Received mine today that I ordered in April.
I wish it was that easy. I get charged a minimum of $230 for shipping ammo if it’s less than 100lb
So I went out today and shot the 50 yards 6x5 @50yards and did a 3x5 @102 yards. I used Sk rifle match, Laupua center x, and Federal match.
As you can see from the last picture, I forgot my front rest and had to improvise with sandbags stacked on each other. The gun had approximately 300 rounds of CCI Standard through it without cleaning it. I ran the Federal Match, the SK Rifle, and Lapua in that order. 50 Yards first and then at 100. The gun was never cleaned. I did not use fouling rounds in between sets. I just shot the gun, The suppressor has had about 2k of rounds without cleaning it. They say guns are more accurate without a suppressor. For the $430 non-heavy barrel 22lr these things flat out shoot. I have Anschutz, CZ453 and 455 and savages. This is by far my favorite rimfire.
results
50 yards
SK Rifle match .339
Federal Match .585
Lapua center x .535
Best at 50 was Laupua with a .168 and SK @.18
102 yards
SK Rifle Match .912 I had a group really open up due to me using the two groups it was .683
Federal Match 1.466
Lapua Center X 1.20
best 100-yard group .556 with SK Rifle Match
As you can see from the last picture, I forgot my front rest and had to improvise with sandbags stacked on each other. The gun had approximately 300 rounds of CCI Standard through it without cleaning it. I ran the Federal Match, the SK Rifle, and Lapua in that order. 50 Yards first and then at 100. The gun was never cleaned. I did not use fouling rounds in between sets. I just shot the gun, The suppressor has had about 2k of rounds without cleaning it. They say guns are more accurate without a suppressor. For the $430 non-heavy barrel 22lr these things flat out shoot. I have Anschutz, CZ453 and 455 and savages. This is by far my favorite rimfire.
results
50 yards
SK Rifle match .339
Federal Match .585
Lapua center x .535
Best at 50 was Laupua with a .168 and SK @.18
102 yards
SK Rifle Match .912 I had a group really open up due to me using the two groups it was .683
Federal Match 1.466
Lapua Center X 1.20
best 100-yard group .556 with SK Rifle Match
My T1x all dressed up.
.22LR
Modified KRG Bravo T3 Chassis to fit the T1x
Sterk Swept Ball Handle for T1x
Sterk TRG Style Aluminium Shroud for T1x
Sterk Titanium Thread Cap
.22LR
Modified KRG Bravo T3 Chassis to fit the T1x
Sterk Swept Ball Handle for T1x
Sterk TRG Style Aluminium Shroud for T1x
Sterk Titanium Thread Cap
I'm sending 90% to the US and Eurooptic and Tacticalworks will have their shipments shortly
Thanks, yesterday I shot the Tikka and some other rifles including my Anschutz 1712. Hadn't shot the 1712 in awhile and I was reminded of how nice the swept bolt handle was.
Shot this yesterday with the Tikka T1x #2. Testing out a new brick of Wolf Match Target. Notice the first round flyer. It happens sometimes but not always. I always note if it does. When possible, 99% of the time I shoot suppressed. My goal is all 10 groups at .5" or less.
Yes, in almost every instance the rifle shoots better suppressed. I have the Silencerco Sparrow. I also have an ACC 45M Ti-Rant I use on occasion with 22's.
