Gents, I took the plunge. I bought the last T1X that Bass Pro had in Texas. Hurray Christmas money.
This is a long post, I apologize, I did my best to be articulate, use good grammar and spelling. Questions are scattered throughout, I can reformat as needed but this is how my brain communicates.
My plan from page 58 has changed slightly.
The biggest change is I am going to drop my Viper PST Gen2 in when the rail arrives, I can't justify getting one of my MK5s parralaxed at 25, the cost, wait time and having a limited use $2k scope isn't in the cards right now, plus NX8s are coming and that might get me to move from Leupold to Nightforce. On the PST Gen2 does anyone know how to set the zero stops to "dial under" the zero like .5mils like I can on a MK5? Given I may need that depending on where I zero, more on that below.
I have an Area 419 20MOA rail inbound, I purchased some 1.26" height 30mm vortex rings so the height over bore will be the same as my centerfire and eye relief seems to be pretty similar between the scopes. As someone above mentioned I got a Bravo in grey ($WAG) inbound with free holiday shipping. My Spectre 2 threaded on good, particularly after I cleaned it. Still shorter than my centerfire match rifle. LOL
I am undecided on doing a bolt handle, shroud, and trigger spring. The trigger spring will be decided when I get to run the gun. The bolt will get decided when I get it in the Bravo. However I tried to take the bolt handle off, (thinking about the resin casting option from many pages ago) but it was ON THERE, like torquing my Allen wrench. Is there something I am missing? Also, what's the point in replacing the shroud? Looking cool and burning money?
I am building up a supply of rimfire ammo to test, fairly optimistic that most things will shot well. What is the best place to buy a wide range of .22lr at once, specifically Lapua and SK?
When load testing for my centerfire match gun, I base it more on ES numbers than group size, since in PRS an MOA rifle is plenty, and wide ESs are more likely to screw you at distance. In NRL22 matches, is this not the right approach? Also, do rimfire barrels "speed up" like there centerfire counterparts, if so, when? Also how much does the suppressor change point of impact, given that .22s grime up cans, does it change as the round count gets higher?
What distance do you zero your NRL22 rifles at? I am thinking 25 or 50, however per my ballistic calculator (geoballistics) seems like 35 might actually make the most since and have everything dial up, no near/far zero to deal with. Is there a preferred ballistic calculator or anything I need to be aware of around G7 variances when setting up the T1X profile?
Is beretta still running a promotion on the magazines?
How are you guys cleaning the barrels on these? I am a bore snake believe, however I know that a sin in some circles...
Finally, can anyone supply me a picture of the bottom of a T1x bravo? A friend and I built the spigot and ARCA rail on my match gun and I want to do the same on my tikka, however it seems the hole pattern isn't *identical* particularly at the magwell.
Thank you in advance for your response and reading all of that!
MM