I just picked up my T1x. The bolt is smoother than I thought it would be after some of what I have read. If I turn the rifle vertical it falls open. Unlocking the bolt does require a little more effort than I am used to. My KRG Bravo gets here tomorrow. What torque are most people using on the action screws? 40 in-lb?
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
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I am at 30 in-lbs. People use anywhere from 25-45 in-lbs. 40 in-lbs is a safe number. If you want to squeeze out every once of accuracy from you T1x. I recommend starting at 25 in-lbs and shooting groups at 25, 30, 35, and 40. Then stay at the number that works best for you.
Ammo wise, i have been getting great results with Center-X and SK Match.
In my KRG Bravo. Started at 20 and went up by 5 in-lbs increments. Groups got worse at 30+. When I do my part, I’ll get ~0.3” CTC with Federal Gold Match Target 711B.Got her put together. I still need to adjust for eye relief and level the scope.
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Talked with Craig at PDC Customs and he is working on a chassis for my Tikka T1x looks like great stuff to me at a reasonable price. I will post pictures when I get it. I have no interest in the company just want to give him a plug, $435 and $485 inlets for 10/22, CZ 452, CZ 455, CZ 457, and Savage M2/93
Pictures and link to web site.
https://www.pdccustom.com/shop/
Pictures and link to web site.
https://www.pdccustom.com/shop/
When will the folding version be available? Can we choose color too?Talked with Craig at PDC Customs and he is working on a chassis for my Tikka T1x looks like great stuff to me at a reasonable price. I will post pictures when I get it. I have no interest in the company just want to give him a plug, $435 and $485 inlets for 10/22, CZ 452, CZ 455, CZ 457, and Savage M2/93
Pictures and link to web site.
https://www.pdccustom.com/shop/
That is definitely not normal. Both of mine are smooth. Not t3x smooth but still smooth for a 22lr push feed.
Did you forget a spacer when you installed it in the bravo? Does it cycle that way when it's not in the chassis?
try taking out your rear action screw and see if it still runs the same way. It looks like itis going through to far and hitting the bolt.
Tried that. Still the same issue. It seems to get real stiff once it hits that ejector spring.
The only other thing I could think of that would cause it is the bolt release rubbing. Do you have any indication of something rubbing on the bolt?
Definitely think it’s rubbing on something but don’t think it’s the bolt release. Another video I just took.
It almost seems like you have drag in the tow locations indicated in the photos. I know if I put any downward pressure on my bolt and I mean even a little it drags there and my bolt would do exactly what yours is doing. Maybe something there is a little out of spec. Does the friction ease up if you lift the bolt knob just a slight amount when you are cycling?
Bolt won’t go forward with any upward pressure. Downward pressure it’ll close. It’s actually smoothest with some downward pressure.
You can take off the mag well and see if it cycles. That will diagnose if the ejector wire is causing bad rubbing.
Next up is dry erase your bolt and see where it is rubbing off.
Next up is dry erase your bolt and see where it is rubbing off.
My 2 cents - try taking the magazine housing off, this has the ejector spring attached to it.
Last idea - the dowel pin through the shroud - make sure its flush on both sides otherwise you'll feel that getting hit every time it sticks out.
Was much smoother with the mag well out. Very smooth with the bolt release depressed but still a little tough with it left alone. With the mag well back in it’s pretty much like the prior videos. Maybe it’s both the spring and the bolt release. Also made sure the pins were flush.
Definitely see some wear on the bolt where those marks are rubbed off. Not sure if I should try polishing the bolt or just send it to Beretta. Worried that might void warranty?
Definitely see some wear on the bolt where those marks are rubbed off. Not sure if I should try polishing the bolt or just send it to Beretta. Worried that might void warranty?
Maybe see if the screws mounting the scope rail are a little too long causing them to contact bolt through receiver. Had that happen on a t3x.
He has already sold it.
. If anyone has a Sterk swept handle you want to sell, or know of one currently available, please let me know.Yea.. found couple of sites selling for $427-ish, but after S&H they are basically same as GAG which I have had several good experience with. I may just pull the trigger... I wish they bring in 16" to the UIS market... but I guess I can always chop it down if I really want...
That's probably the best you are gonna get right now. I would jump all over that if I didn't already have one.
Paid 500 new from mine at cabelas this winter. So.... that’s a good price
You won't be disappointedThanks guys.. went with Gun Pro Deals instead of GAG.. $450 with a change shipped to my FFL. Can't wait..
Reinstalled them and while it didn’t fix the entire issue it’s maybe 10% smoother. Maybe had just a tad too much torque on them before. I’ve run the bolt another 300 or so times and it’s getting there. Going to try some polishing/lapping compound.
Has anyone tried to Micro-slick one of the bolts yet? Been looking at the option from Cerakote and seems interesting, instead of trying to have the bolt NP3 coated.
Put the factory bolt handle back on it and try it, you will be surprised of the difference. Swept backs suck on tikkas from my experience, causing friction due to the angle you are applying pressure. Some people have no issue with them.
Never polished a black Tikka action, it will get gummy. the bolt is fine.
This was my experience as well. One gun has a Sterk and works perfect. Other one binds with it so I went back to factory.
I removed the Sterk bolt shroud cause I saw one side I could stick a fingernail in and the other I couldn’t and it’s now a ton smoother. Swapped the handle back to factory and while it’s not T3x smooth, so much better. I’m hoping a thousand rounds or so through it help smooth it out more.
Thanks all for the help!
If you want an aftermarket bolt knob DIP makes a nice straight style one that is longer and a lot easier to manipulate than the original. It’s about $29 so it doesn’t break the bank either.
Hi, quick question for people with a similar setup. I want to put an AO rail on my T1X. I’m planning on using an Athlon Midas Tac 6-24 with 85 MOA of elevation adjustment and Warne low rings.
I’d like to reach out to 300 yards, so the 30 MOA makes sense. However, I’m gonna do quite a bit of shooting at 25 yards too. Will the 30 MOA rail let me zero at 25 yards, or do I need the 15?
I’d like to reach out to 300 yards, so the 30 MOA makes sense. However, I’m gonna do quite a bit of shooting at 25 yards too. Will the 30 MOA rail let me zero at 25 yards, or do I need the 15?
I can't help you with your adjustment question, but you might want to check on ring height & scope clearance.
I have a Athlon Argos with a 50mm Obj. - a 25 MOA DIP base and Warne Medium rings - it has good clearance, but it's getting close.
Good luck,
Bob S.
You are going to need rings with about 1" height to center. I just put a 5-25x56 on a t1x with a DIP +25MOA rail. I ordered a couple sets of Vortex precision rings and the best fit was 1.1". 1" should be a good fit for a 50mm objective.
I tried 35 and 45 moa worth of cant with my PST 3-15 (25moa rail plus Burris signature zee rings).
45moa was just a little to much to zero at 40m, so went with 35moa.
30moa should be fine.
I have the DIP Bolt knob and muzzle brake (asthetics, hehehee), and do like the bolt knob. Really like the Oryx chassis.
Thanks is a KKC stock made by Altamont stocks. Quite comfortable. It’s the poor mans GRS stock
Had a short period to shoot today, so I took the kids out with me and only got to shoot about 30 rounds through the tikka (about 10 shot of bulk ammo to get it dialed in and then 4- 5 shot groups with Eley action)
all but one group could be covered with a dime (51 yards). Not bad for a portable table and a light breeze. The gun is definitely more accurate than I am. Super excited to see if the wife will compete in the nrl22 with it this year.
Need to find the emails but I think it was through Dr FrankenRuger . ..... just checked and his website doesn’t work anymore. They were out of Florida and he just ordered them from altamont. You might need to reach out to them or one of their vendors. They should still have the tikka inlet.
(I ordered a 10/22, tikka T3, and a blank that I had Sonoran gunstocks inlet for a 455. But it’s been 4 years or so).
I want to run an Atlas bipod with the QD pic rail mount from ADM on the stock t1 stock with the wider slip on factory forend. Anyone know of an adaptor or pic rail that can be bolted into the factory sling stud? Or am I stuck using a sling stud adaptor for the Atlas bipod or installing additional mounting hardware through the stock under the barrel channel to be able to run a pic rail under the factory Tikka forend?
There are lots of options out there. I bought a cheap UTG bipod that came with one. Just google sling stud picatinny adapter and you should be able to find one that fits your fancy
Same. I was able to find one on Amazon and have posted the link in the T3 thread before.
Do you have enough forend material to install a t-nut? I honestly have sold off all my factory stocks as soon as I bought a new tikka. You could buy an area 419 pic rail and they come with multiple t nut hardware. You need 2 anchor points to mount a pic rail or it would spin on you.
