Welcome to God’s country! I am just north of Dallas. Love it here but for the heat …. I believe yes, and you kind of get both. Weight savings compared to a bill barrel and also better heat dissipation
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Weight savings, yes. As for heat dissipation, it does dissipate slightly faster, but it also heats up faster as there is less mass.
So, if you want to shoot longer strings, get a thicker non-fluted barrel.
So, if you want to shoot longer strings, get a thicker non-fluted barrel.
I got a chance to stretch the CTR beyond 200 yards this weekend. The range has a 600 yard bay with steel silhouettes and target backers a 400, 500, and 600 yards.
I started at 400 yards. After a few shots things tightened up. This was my best group. About 1.25” at 400 yards.
Things started opening up a bit but I was able to ring this 8” plate 6 of 6 at 400.
I probably should have slowed down and cleaned the barrel, because it started opening up after that. Best I could do was 10” at 600. I still had a good time!
I started at 400 yards. After a few shots things tightened up. This was my best group. About 1.25” at 400 yards.
Things started opening up a bit but I was able to ring this 8” plate 6 of 6 at 400.
I probably should have slowed down and cleaned the barrel, because it started opening up after that. Best I could do was 10” at 600. I still had a good time!
Not many options for us in heavy barrel and stainless. Reason I went t3x lite stainless and will rebarrel later. T3x are shouldered prefit compatible.
For a quick run down on tikkas check this post. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-thread.6252615/post-7301418
The super varmint is available in stainless.
Thick barrel, wider forend and adjustable comb, that should work.
Raven Euro MT-32 - fresh model, available for ordering.
Adjustable cheek, CTR footprint, factory or aftermarket, able to use factory or pre-fit barrels, our PillarBlock system - well, we do think it's a nice stock for hunting and shooting. What do you think?
Adjustable cheek, CTR footprint, factory or aftermarket, able to use factory or pre-fit barrels, our PillarBlock system - well, we do think it's a nice stock for hunting and shooting. What do you think?
In the USA in lefthanded? Not really. Beretta USA screws us over with what they import.
Very bizarre business decision. Surely there are a lot more left handers in the US than other markets just by virtue of the size of it? It's usually us in the UK market getting the short end of the stick!
Ever considered just not being left handed?
Seems pretty impractical.
Left hand, left foot, and left eye dominant. Hard to change.
My experience with it in a 21” 300prc was just fine despite everyone saying this.
RL26 and Hodgon Superformance are both common powders for hot rodding the 6.5CM/260 type cartridges.
I want going to go that route but stuck with H4350 due to temp stability.
RL26 is a proven performer, just make sure you take temp changes into account. Find your node and stick to that MV adjusting for temp. So if it’s hotter, reduce charge to match MV. If it’s colder then increase charge to maintain the MV. Whatever you do, don’t load up 500 rounds all the same charge and if you do don’t vary from your established temps by more than a few degrees.
I actually used to bring a cooler to the range to keep my ammo at winter temps. RL26 is a proven performer.
The attached chart is for 140-143 grain ELD. Of all the listed candidates the highest MV is the R26
I actually used to bring a cooler to the range to keep my ammo at winter temps. RL26 is a proven performer.
The attached chart is for 140-143 grain ELD. Of all the listed candidates the highest MV is the R26
Attachments
Yeah i load it for a 26” bartlein right now.
I mostly just didn’t know what velocities someone might have seen on a 20” tikka barrel
For more detailed Considering snagging a takeoff for western hunts to pick up some velocity over my 16.5” and not bringing my can. I would still prefer 20” ctr over a 24” roughtech/d18 if possible because it will fit better in my trunk for quick range sessions after/before work.
Tikka barrels are often talked about as slow, so I didn’t know if anyone was currently loading it for their 20” and had some velocity numbers. I get 2860 with 46 grains in my Bart for a 140 so I’m guessing I could probably get around 2700 with a 140 maybe 28 with a 130
I mostly just didn’t know what velocities someone might have seen on a 20” tikka barrel
For more detailed Considering snagging a takeoff for western hunts to pick up some velocity over my 16.5” and not bringing my can. I would still prefer 20” ctr over a 24” roughtech/d18 if possible because it will fit better in my trunk for quick range sessions after/before work.
Tikka barrels are often talked about as slow, so I didn’t know if anyone was currently loading it for their 20” and had some velocity numbers. I get 2860 with 46 grains in my Bart for a 140 so I’m guessing I could probably get around 2700 with a 140 maybe 28 with a 130
The above chart was for a 24” barrel, so I suspect you could beat 2700 with 46 grains of 26. Of course, standard disclaimer, work up blah blah blah. I haven’t shot rl26 out of my 20, so I can’t help you there, and I also use hBn, and my powder is IMR4350. I exceed 2700, slightly, with the above mentioned handicaps.
I’m getting 2620 with a 140 and 41.5gr H4350 out of an 18” tikka so you should be able to push 2700 pretty easily with a 130 and 20” barrel.
Nice, looks like I could quite possibly do it with a 140.
What bullet, if it's 6.5 CM rl16 works well. It's not temp sensitive, I got 2880 with 147's before I got a lot of pressure signs. Loaded it down to 2825 with a 26 in barrel.
My 19" 260 will do 2800fps with 130 ELD-Ms and 2700fps with 140 ELD-Ms.
From memory about 43.5gr of H4350 for the 140s.
My 24" 6.5CM does about 2800fps with 130 ELD-Ms and 42.5gr of H4350.
From memory about 43.5gr of H4350 for the 140s.
My 24" 6.5CM does about 2800fps with 130 ELD-Ms and 42.5gr of H4350.
What would be the actual benefit? I haven’t seen the pic’s or the posts, so wondering what is the deal. I am pretty happy with the action I have.
H4350 and RL 16 are what I've used, I get a little more speed with the RL 16. No issues shooting matches when it's 100 degrees.
I
I currently use imr4350 for the tmk in a 16.25 tikka and rl26 with 143 in a 26” Bart. I like both loads, just wondering about really pushing a 20” for western hunting
You can usually figure 25-50 fps for each inch of reduction. I'd think you'd still have enough velocity as long as you don't shoot a long ways out.
More than a few, search function doesn't work well but there's more than a few threads.
Personally, I favor IMR 4350. Achieves higher MV’s than H4350 and is just as accurate if not more so. Someone will say: “temp sensitive” but no. IMR4350’s temp sensitivity is .69, one of the better powders for that. I have use it since the late 70’s as I recall, for my 30-06. Have never had any issues and my sole complaint is how it measures, but I am very careful and achieve very consistent charges. Just take it slow and keep your eyes open.
Glad to see another IMR4350 user.
after a few minutes of tuning my v4 Autotrickler hasn’t had any issues with imr4350, it shoots well and is usually cheaper. (Plus I could find it easier last year)
Just picked up a new takeoff 20 inch CTR barrel in 260 to hunt suppressed. Tikka actions sure handy for swapping/trying barrels
Hah but so is fluting barrels when we could just drop a contour, we do lots of shit because it’s cool
Tried a few powders in my Varmint 6.5 manbun rifle. Seemed to like IMR4350 over H4350 so that's what I'm loading.Personally, I favor IMR 4350. Achieves higher MV’s than H4350 and is just as accurate if not more so. Someone will say: “temp sensitive” but no. IMR4350’s temp sensitivity is .69, one of the better powders for that. I have use it since the late 70’s as I recall, for my 30-06. Have never had any issues and my sole complaint is how it measures, but I am very careful and achieve very consistent charges. Just take it slow and keep your eyes open.
Glad to see another IMR4350 user.
M
You don't actually have to remove it. One of my CTRs had one installed when I bought it new. It never got in the way so far as I could tell.
Last edited:
Is your Tikka T3 model, NOT T3X?
If it is T3 and you want to start using CTR magazines, you need to do side way cut to the bottom of the action.
All Tikka T3X has this groove under the receiver, that is on the CTR magazine using rifles must have, or the CTR magazine feeding lip is not going up, and the magazine aint going to feed the ammo.
I had one T3 that i put in to a TAC A1 chassis, and that needed to do to the receiver bottom.
Milling machine and about 5mm wide and 2mm deep.
Here is a picture of T3X action.
And here is T3.
You can seen that there is no that groove, that the action needs, if use CTR magazine.
How do you like the waterman mags? I am thinking of ordering a couple to use in my t3x 6arc.Here's what I call my Super Varmint Lite
My old T3 Lite .223 in a T3x Super Varmint Stock and a Waters Magazine so I can load long .
