-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
I'm pretty handy and may take this advice and repaint it and call it a day. Everyone here agrees that Beretta is terrible to deal with and I don't want my rifle gone for who knows how long. I'm just pissed it's only a couple of months old and it's not exactly on the cheap end of the spectrum.
For real? You can't adjust the trigger without removing the action, or at least I don't know how to. Who doesn't take out their action to clean it and look things over. FWIW, the lady today didn't ask. Also, they tell you action torque specs, meaning they're assuming you're going to pull them at some point.
Appreciate everyone chiming in. Seems like the common theme is Beretta isn't great. If they say I voided the warranty by punching a T Nut 14" away I'm going to lose my mind, haha.
So I found and rewatched a video on YouTube where someone visited the Sako in-house stock factory , and the narrator/'tour guide" is the guy who was the "R&D Manager" and I think the lead on the UPR among other things at Tikka. - And he basically said that resin that is impregnated in the carbon fiber of the stocks - the excess resin - needs to be removed, which they do with a robot - and basically "some people think that they see a seam, which would mean we made the stocks from two separate sides, that's not the case, it's just a seam from the excess resin..."
Just throwing that out there.
Just throwing that out there.
That Sako stock is a totally different stock to the Tikka UPR.
UPR is made of glass mainly in two halves.
edi
I'm wanting a 6.5 PRC, and also wanting it to be a Tikka. Not concerned what stock it comes in as I'll be putting it in an KRG immediately.
I don't see many PRC T3s. 308,and CM being the lion's share.
What's the overall opinion of the "med" length cartridge in the t3 platform?
I don't see many PRC T3s. 308,and CM being the lion's share.
What's the overall opinion of the "med" length cartridge in the t3 platform?
You can do it on normal Tikka and TAC A1.
There is a hole on the trigger guard on normal Tikka T3 too, and you can tune the sping tension thu the hole, for sure it needs more
nerves and fingers, but you can do it with out removing the action from the stock.
They work fine, only cartridges that are an issue in a Tikka are the longest LA cartridges if you want to load heavy bullets.
For 6.5 PRC your options are pretty much the ember or super varmint or one of the cabelas exclusive one. I think sportsman’s has an exclusive too. Or buy a standard T3X lite for $650 or SS for $750 in a magnum chambering and get a Proof for it. At that point though I’d get an origin or coup de grace and a prefit for a little more and have far better aftermarket support and a better action.
Not sure of real world availability, but their website shows the prc in the basic ctr, stainless, varmint and super varmint.....
I would only believe the veil, rough tech, supervarmint, and Upr. JRT part numbers are only what gets imported.
Hey gang,
After everyone chiming in, I decided not to roll the dice with Beretta.
1. Nobody had anything positive to say about their warranty process and CS.
2. CS told me they had no available stocks to replace it with that they could find. I could not bring myself to hand it over with any idea when I would get it back. If it were a mechanical issue with the action, then obvi I wouldn't have a choice.
So, I took redneckbmxer24 input, but I used the strongest JB Weld I could find at around 5600psi. I drilled out the tail of the crack, cleaned well with acetone, filled, sanded and cured. I purposely did not attempt to clamp the crack closed, as I wanted the filler to have some tooth against the fiberglass (I'm a woodworker). Because I now had an eye sore, I decided "nah" and painted it. If the crack reappears, I'll just scrap it and put it in a chassis. Hopefully it'll last, as I actually like the stock. Paint job inspired by my 457 that's in a Manner's stock.
Before:
After:
Thanks to the hide for the input!
After everyone chiming in, I decided not to roll the dice with Beretta.
1. Nobody had anything positive to say about their warranty process and CS.
2. CS told me they had no available stocks to replace it with that they could find. I could not bring myself to hand it over with any idea when I would get it back. If it were a mechanical issue with the action, then obvi I wouldn't have a choice.
So, I took redneckbmxer24 input, but I used the strongest JB Weld I could find at around 5600psi. I drilled out the tail of the crack, cleaned well with acetone, filled, sanded and cured. I purposely did not attempt to clamp the crack closed, as I wanted the filler to have some tooth against the fiberglass (I'm a woodworker). Because I now had an eye sore, I decided "nah" and painted it. If the crack reappears, I'll just scrap it and put it in a chassis. Hopefully it'll last, as I actually like the stock. Paint job inspired by my 457 that's in a Manner's stock.
Before:
After:
Thanks to the hide for the input!
Last edited:
Looks good I like paint do you have close up of the repair?
You might consider going into the fiberglass stock refinishing/repairing business lol wow
Ha! I’m not a fan of fiberglass. But it did cross my mind to strip around the palm swell and make it wider and mould in a thumb rest. That is one thing I absolutely love about Manner’s is their wide swell around the palm.
If the stock takes a dump again, I might experiment with it. If I do I’ll share my process/result.
One reason for the crack in that stock could be loose bedding which in turn uses the rear action screw to split the stock also because the action screw hole might be too small in diameter. Another reason is because these stocks do not have a single fibre going from left to right. Repairing that I would cut a groove left to right around the tang and inly soaked carbon rovings, then cover with filled epoxy and fair. Got to get the structure right. Or buy a composite stock that is built right from day one.
edi
edi
Ha! I’m not a fan of fiberglass. But it did cross my mind to strip around the palm swell and make it wider and mould in a thumb rest. That is one thing I absolutely love about Manner’s is their wide swell around the palm.
If the stock takes a dump again, I might experiment with it. If I do I’ll share my process/result.
If it splits again relieve some of the material inside, install pillars, and pillar bed. That should relieve whatever stress is causing that. Worst case scenario, with enough repairs you'll eventually have the first full JB weld stock.
Thanks! I promise you can do it. Matte paint with various colors hides a multitude of sins.
This was mine as a 1/8 twist 223, sold it to a friend who converted it to 22 Creedmoor and dipped the stock.
On its way back as we speak.
Think I’m gonna like it (again).
On its way back as we speak.
Think I’m gonna like it (again).
So far I clean and go over it. If the paint was chipping or loose I would do a full strip. So far I just wipe it down good with alcohol and hit it with some fine sandpaper and then wipe it down a 2nd time. Anything loose should show by then (I hope lol)
Oh!! And a coat of non-glossy clear coat will help protect your paint job. It’s important to allow for fully dried layers if you are doing layers. Here in Texas I just left the stock outside in 100° weather for a few hours lol
Yep, that's what I did in matte. Good to go. Thanks!
I run a Tikka T3X CTR .308 in a KRG X-Ray chassis. I have an MDT AICS 10 rnd magazine and it works perfectly.
I'm just wondering if anyone else would know if the magazine well in the X-Ray can seat an MDT AICS 3 rnd mag?
Wanted a 5 rnd but they are like hens teeth at the moment. I've found a 3 rnd magazine online but don't to waste money if it won't seat.
I'm just wondering if anyone else would know if the magazine well in the X-Ray can seat an MDT AICS 3 rnd mag?
Wanted a 5 rnd but they are like hens teeth at the moment. I've found a 3 rnd magazine online but don't to waste money if it won't seat.
Your paint job looks awesome man. I hope your repair holds up well, I think you did the right thing to repair that stock.
There’s a guy on here that has a bunch of AI brand 5 round mags for $50 shipped in the classifieds.
Thanks for the info Red, but I'm in Ireland. Between shipping, customs and taxes(vat) I'd get fleeced!!!
Try Highland outdoors in Wexford area. Dom Byrne.
3 rd plastic might need a bit of fiddling to get them to drop out, so flush there is nothing to hold on to to get out. We are in P17E940 if you would be close by you could try out some of the mags.
edi
Thank you, sir.
Headed to the range tmrw. Fingers crossed it doesn’t open up again!
I would say, that after having all the triggers on my Tikka, that has 2-stage, i would say that the best of the best is the KRG Midas.
I have 2 Sako TRG 2-stage triggers on my rifles too, but it is not as good as the Midas, and i have had Midas for a many years now, and not a single time i have had no issues with it, nada, zero.
I had to modified these TRG triggers, because these are not made for Tikka, and Sako TRG is a military rifle, it must have more power on the firing pin spring, because i had to remove the original second stage spring on both of the Sako triggers, because it was jumping over the cocking and wont get a firing mode.
I had few old Tikka ejector spings, that is precisely same diameter on the sping, and it is twice the lenght of the Sako trigger spring.
So after that mod, those have been worked fine, but once they had that problem, and not just one, but 2 triggers, new one bought, not sanded or filed the trigger, and those do that type of issue, i dont think it is a reliable trigger.
But like i say, i have had the Midas for a years, and no issues, and the feel how it does brake is just of it own category.
After it brakes, it does not move more than a hair, the feeling is so pure that you just can think of.
Look the video and see it with your own eyes and hear it with your own ears.
I have 2 Sako TRG 2-stage triggers on my rifles too, but it is not as good as the Midas, and i have had Midas for a many years now, and not a single time i have had no issues with it, nada, zero.
I had to modified these TRG triggers, because these are not made for Tikka, and Sako TRG is a military rifle, it must have more power on the firing pin spring, because i had to remove the original second stage spring on both of the Sako triggers, because it was jumping over the cocking and wont get a firing mode.
I had few old Tikka ejector spings, that is precisely same diameter on the sping, and it is twice the lenght of the Sako trigger spring.
So after that mod, those have been worked fine, but once they had that problem, and not just one, but 2 triggers, new one bought, not sanded or filed the trigger, and those do that type of issue, i dont think it is a reliable trigger.
But like i say, i have had the Midas for a years, and no issues, and the feel how it does brake is just of it own category.
After it brakes, it does not move more than a hair, the feeling is so pure that you just can think of.
Look the video and see it with your own eyes and hear it with your own ears.
I think my proof 223 barrel is really settling in, shot my best 10 round group at just under 3/4" @ 100 with the 69gr Freedom Muntitions ammo. Good cheap fun.
I decided to install the Yo Dave trigger spring. I was very disappointed that the two sling mount m screws slightly gauled when removing them. I cleaned them with a die nut etc. Good to go. I know I didn't have to removed them but I figured that out after the fact.
As for the rest of trigger spring install, it was very easy. I am VERY shock how well the trigger feels now. Very light and a clear wall is still there.
I also noticed that the front of my scope mount was attached to the hand guard top rail (red arrow on a picture from Friday) . That can't be good. So I went ahead and moved it back which actually made the distance from my eye far better. That's what I get from trying to rush things Friday when I put the scope and mount originally on.
As for the rest of trigger spring install, it was very easy. I am VERY shock how well the trigger feels now. Very light and a clear wall is still there.
I also noticed that the front of my scope mount was attached to the hand guard top rail (red arrow on a picture from Friday) . That can't be good. So I went ahead and moved it back which actually made the distance from my eye far better. That's what I get from trying to rush things Friday when I put the scope and mount originally on.
Attachments
Hello homies.
Have you heard a company, Total Hunter?
It is from Australia.
Received a package from Down Under yesterday, man these items are cool
Have you heard a company, Total Hunter?
It is from Australia.
Received a package from Down Under yesterday, man these items are cool
Well, you can build almost any kind of system to over a Tikka these days.
Not as wide as Remington 700 and footprint, but close
Not as wide as Remington 700 and footprint, but close
.260REM 136gr Scenar-l & 43,3gr of VVN555.
28" Krieger, 10 shot group.
Tikka CTR action, nothing else from Tikka
28" Krieger, 10 shot group.
Tikka CTR action, nothing else from Tikka
.260REM 136gr Scenar-l & 43,3gr of VVN555.
28" Krieger, 10 shot group.
Tikka CTR action, nothing else from Tikka
N555 is great in 6.5 CM also, 44 gr with an 18" Tikka hunting load with 127 gr Barnes LRX@ 2753 fps (839 m/s)
Yes, i have just recently find out, how nice powder that N555 is.
42,5gr of it gives 21" Krieger 6.5 Creedmoor 837ms average with 136gr Lapua Scenar-L and awesome accuracy.
43.5 gn N555 with 140 ELDM loaded long works pretty well for me, 24.3 inch T3X. Not close to overpressure and doesn’t beat me up lol
