Re: TMR reticle help please
http://www.mil-dot.com/
http://www.mildot.com/
http://swfa.com/Mil-Dot-Master-P91.aspx
http://www2.leupold.com/resources/downloads/Leupold_TMR_Manual_6-20-07.pdf
The above resources should be helpful. The 168 gr is real good at around 300 yds and closer and works OK at 600 once you get past that you really need to be thinking about a heavier bullet I shoot 190 Sierra Matchkings at 2600 fps hand loaded.
The scope can look real complicated until you understand it but like any other scope you need to set the zero at a particular distance usually either 100 or 200 yds. The military often sets their zero at 600 yds then works both directions to dial in correction for nearer or further targets. Not sure if you got the FFP model or not but good if you did as the reticle looks smaller at lower power and larger at higher power but the mildots are always correct. Most guys have the one with the reticle in the second focal plane and the reticle appears to remain the same no matter what power you select. What that means is that the only power setting that you can accurately use the reticle for a rangefinding device is the maximum power 20x. It can also be used using the marks for known hold over. You can find "dope" infornation on trajectory and hold over by using a Balistic Calculator on line.
Ok the scope is mounted on the rifle and you go somewhere that you can shoot safely set up a target like a large cardboard box at about 25 yds and try to shoot the center of it then turn the knobs to adjust until you get it close to the center at this distance big full turns of the knob. Once you get to 100 yds one click should move the scope 1/4 inch and 4 clicks should move the scope 1 full inch on the target. So if you are off 6 inches low you need to come up 6x4=24 clicks. Once you have it shooting the center of the target you need to re-set the knobs by taking a hex wrench and loosening the hex screws which hold the turrets onto the scope then pull them up and off and move them to the "0" mark and push it gently back down then gently tighten the hex screws. Shoot again to verify that you have not somehow moved the turret while re installing the knob. Once it is zeroed for a particular bullet that you are shooting make notes on a note pad. If you also shoot another heavier bullet make notes what amount of correction you need to dial in to zero that bullet at your selected zero distance then go to 200 yds and make notes what you have to dial in to hit the center of the target there. etc It helps to have information of the trajectory of the bullet you use and to have printed off the info from the balistic calculator. Some will give info in both Mil and MOA both of these are measurments of an angle like a piece of pie. The big hash marks on the TMR reticle are 1 mil apart and the smaller are .5 mil apart. If you know your hold over in MIL you can use the reticle like a balistic reticle and hold over say 4.5 MIl to make a quick shot but if its is a second focal plane scope it only works at the maximum power 20x.
One MOA for practical purposes is one inch at 100 2 inches at 200, 3 inches at 300 etc etc 10 inches at 1000.
So when you get to 200 yds and you turn the scope two clicks you just moved it two - quarter moa clicks and at 200 one moa is 2 inches so a fourth of 2 inches is a half inch and if you moved it two of those you just moved it one inch. At 300 yds if you move the knob 1/4moa and one moa at 300 is 3 inches each 1/4moa is .75 inches. Like a piece of pie it gets wider as it goes away from you.
Knobs for (dummies)
http://www.kentonindustries.com/
These are really slick you tell them the bullet you use, your elevation, and temp etc and they custom engrave the marks to represent each hundred yards on a knob and mail it to you to install. I like the speed dial knobs if you dont shoot past say 600 and the long range hunting knob if you do. You can buy a knob for each particular bullet you use or if there is a special use like a high altitude hunt -- you can order a special knob for that and change them out. Verify your zero, and verify where it hits and your good. If you experiment with lots of loads it is not for you but if you lock in on one load like a 168 AMAX with 44 grains Varget or some factory load it's awesome. If you dont hand load I suggest you try several bullet weights and brands to see what groups best from your rifle other than that I would look at how the ammo compares by looking at how much energy it has at 500 yds which is usually on the ammo mfg web site and typically heavier bullets do better at long range.
