6gt

#2,251
Barrels matter. Shot 32.8 of varget with Alpha and Berger 109s most of last year. Had single SDs and right at 2835fps.

Switched to an ATX with a CRB. Same barrel length, 26". But after just 100 rounds I'm seeing 2890-2900.

I have found past 850 the GT with 109s struggles with consistency. Last weekend I watched it bounce all around a target at 1000. I'm going back to 6.5 creed for matches that go out past 900.
 
#2,252
farrar86 said:
Barrels matter. Shot 32.8 of varget with Alpha and Berger 109s most of last year. Had single SDs and right at 2835fps.

Switched to an ATX with a CRB. Same barrel length, 26". But after just 100 rounds I'm seeing 2890-2900.

I have found past 850 the GT with 109s struggles with consistency. Last weekend I watched it bounce all around a target at 1000. I'm going back to 6.5 creed for matches that go out past 900.
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Yeah I’m in that range with 36.3g h4350 with my crb. Seems to be faster than some.

I haven’t found consistency to be an issue at all with 109’s. 1200 is where it started to get dicey but a full size plate isn’t hard to hit it’s the smaller 1moa ish targets.
 
#2,253
You’re likely starting to go transonic about 1200, for whatever that’s worth. While truing the 109 out, I had a chance to run it out to a mile (cause why not). Interesting thing was, the next closest target was 1150y. Using the AB CDM, I was spot on to 1150. At a mile, the data was .8 low. I ran the same environmentals and rifle/load setup through a couple other solvers (4DOF, Eagle, Geo), and all of them were .7-.8 mils off (and basically the same at 1150 and in. But it hit consistently at a mile, while accounting for the shifty winds.
 
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#2,255
I like the speed after running 6.5cm at 2700 and under. 109’s work well for me.
IMG_0831.jpeg
 
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#2,258
drglock said:
You won’t be disappointed
Click to expand...

I dig the DTACs having used them in 6CM, and I think it’s kind of strange that for heavier 6mm projectiles they’re really the only game in town besides the straight-up VLD-type Sierra and Nosler RDFs…

I’ve run a bunch of the heavyish 112 Match Burners in the 6GT and they were great (which are still more VLD than Tangent/hybrid like the DTAC), and I have kind of missed them compared to the 106 A-tips I’ve been running. I think I prefer what the heavier 6mm bullets do compared to what the 105/106 class bullets do.

115 DTACs should be even better.
 
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#2,259
CK1.0 said:
I dig the DTACs having used them in 6CM, and I think it’s kind of strange that for heavier 6mm projectiles they’re really the only game in town besides the straight-up VLD-type Sierra and Nosler RDFs…

I’ve run a bunch of the heavyish 112 Match Burners in the 6GT and they were great (which are still more VLD than Tangent/hybrid like the DTAC), and I have kind of missed them compared to the 106 A-tips I’ve been running. I think I prefer what the heavier 6mm bullets do compared to what the 105/106 class bullets do.

115 DTACs should be even better.
Click to expand...
I've been running dtacs in the 6gt for last few years when it's been shot in matches. 170fb, 35.2-35.6gr H4350 depending in the barrel, they've shot really well at 2820-2860fps. I think I'll be shooting my 25x47 this season once the weather warms up here in the north.
 
#2,261
farrar86 said:
Any loads with Varget?
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I personally think varget is on the fast side for 115s. It builds carbon quickly in my experience, as does N150, ts15.5,and RL16. H4350 has been the best performer for me to be able to run 400+ rounds without having to tune, clean or get funky velocity creep. If you want to us varget with the dtac, I'd start at 31.5 gr and work up to 33 max. The long bearing surface of the dtac creates a lot more resistance than the other heavy 6mms.
 
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#2,264
bodhisafa said:
What’s the best case to run the dtacs?
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I honestly wish the 6x47 had caught on more. 0.300 long neck, holds a bit more powder than the GT, but this allows you to use a broad spectrum of powders. Pretty much varget through H1000. XC and 6creed have that ability as well, but the extra capacity isn't needed. If all you want is a ceiling of 2900 w/ dtacs on top end, 6gt is ur baby.
 
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#2,265
4O6shootist said:
I honestly wish the 6x47 had caught on more. 0.300 long neck, holds a bit more powder than the GT, but this allows you to use a broad spectrum of powders. Pretty much varget through H1000. XC and 6creed have that ability as well, but the extra capacity isn't needed. If all you want is a ceiling of 2900 w/ dtacs on top end, 6gt is ur baby.
Click to expand...
I had 6x47 years ago... technically I guess it was a 6-6.5x47L... shot great, never had a problem with that cartridge. I was watching one of the Hornady podcasts where they had George & Tom on talking about the 6GT; I think George mentioned that the 6x47L was sorta fussy to get to shoot. Not in my experience, but I'm guessing between him and his customers he saw a few more of those than I ever would.

I recently got back into a 6CM, loving it so far... but I'm keeping an eye on the 6GT thing as more brass becomes available.
 
#2,266
memilanuk said:
I had 6x47 years ago... technically I guess it was a 6-6.5x47L... shot great, never had a problem with that cartridge. I was watching one of the Hornady podcasts where they had George & Tom on talking about the 6GT; I think George mentioned that the 6x47L was sorta fussy to get to shoot. Not in my experience, but I'm guessing between him and his customers he saw a few more of those than I ever would.

I recently got back into a 6CM, loving it so far... but I'm keeping an eye on the 6GT thing as more brass becomes available.
Click to expand...

For the money and ubiquity, 6CM does everything 6x47 and 6XC does but for less money. my 24" 6CM can push 115DTAC to 3200fps with RL26 or turned down to 2850fps with 4831SC. In the US, CM just makes more sense until you get to lower capacity cartridges like GT and smaller.
 
#2,267
I have 3x 6cm tubes, all 18-22" hunting rigs, they shoot great, I use the case capacity advantage to keep mv above 2900 from the shorter barrel. They've been very lethal for me on deer/Antelope out to near 700y. I lovw the 6cm, just not for high volume match style shooting.

The 6-6.5x47 lapua was the correct way to run that cartridge, there were a lot of different reamers that used different body dimensions VS the 6.5 parent case, this is what made some them fussy from my research. 6xc had some this going on too, as the original 6xc was based upon 22-250 parent case and Norma 6xc, then the 6xc II came along with a larger base diameter I believe more along the lines of a creed. This was using Peterson and Alpha brass I believe. I could be mixed up, but I know there were new reamers for new brass.

Any of these 6mm cases from BR to creed are very easy to get shooting small groups with low recoil.
 
#2,268
I’m chasing my tail with a shoulder bump issue trying to get consistency and can’t figure it out.

Using CoAx with RCBS match dies. I think my equipment is quality enough. It’s clean, concentric, no slop, etc. Witness marks on the FL die.

So instead of getting a .003 bump, I’ll get anywhere from that to .006 or 7. I’m annealing.

Could this be a function of hydraulic pressure from lube, Hornady brass, both or other? Different load pressures from testing which may fire form differently from case to case from some of the virgin firings? Hornady brass was all I could find.

The only variable I can think of is I didn't measure every piece of 1F brass with the comparator before sizing. If it's possible the first firing doesn't fully fireform due to some random lower charges from ladders, maybe it's giving me a false sense reading because the case never fully maxed out in the chamber? Meaning, it never grew to maximum length to be bumped .003. So in theory, I'm resizing the case, but it was never long enough to bump. Is this possible? I assumed a piece of brass regardless of a lower starting pressure in the gt would be soft enough to form maximum length in the chamber.

On another note. I spoke with Lapua and 6gt brass should drop next month.
 
#2,269
The lube you use, the amount and consistency of application play a large role in this in my experience.
**After re-reading your post**
If you are shooting new brass and at different charge weights you will see differences in the shoulder as pressure increases. In that case I would take measurements off the higher charge weights and because they were once fired, I'd bump those one to two thou and check them in the chamber. After you get a second firing on them check them again. Just be aware that if you are running a lower pressure load you may have to go through this cycle a few times. Another trick you can try is to intentionally not size one completely for shoulder bump and do a chamber check with that piece, if it doesn't fit, keep bumping it back tell it does while taking measurements. Once it chambers write that down and subtract your 3 or so thou from it.
 
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#2,270
I experienced something similar with SAC dies loading in my MEC Marksman - but the fix there was to buy a set of Redding Competition Shell holders, and use one that left more headspace, and adjust it like that. I was getting a .012 bump with the die touching the shell holder but no cam over. After switching shell holders, I've got it dialed to a very consistent .003 bump.

That said - your thought of "the brass did stretch enough" - how long are your cases vs. your chamber? Is your starting base to shoulder measurement (before firing) really .006-.007 shorter than the chamber? If not, that theory doesn't make sense.
 
#2,271
Niles Coyote said:
The lube you use, the amount and consistency of application play a large role in this in my experience.
Click to expand...

^ Mine as well.

@climbing1 If using a full-length die, try lubing just the case body next time and not the shoulder or neck. Some might not agree, but I've made some pretty consistent stuff over the years doing this and have had no issues. Obviously if you are using a bushing die, you might want to do the neck too. The biggest thing during the experiment is to stay off the shoulder.

Just try a couple pieces at first and see if the consistency gets closer...if it does...then lube application was the culprit.
 
#2,272
climbing1 said:
If it's possible the first firing doesn't fully fireform due to some random lower charges from ladders, maybe it's giving me a false sense reading because the case never fully maxed out in the chamber? Meaning, it never grew to maximum length to be bumped .003. So in theory, I'm resizing the case, but it was never long enough to bump. Is this possible?
Click to expand...

^ this

The lube situation applies as well, as covered by others... but the brass doesn't fully fireform to the chamber for a few (2-3) firings unless you're running just stupid hot loads.
 
#2,273
Niles Coyote said:
The lube you use, the amount and consistency of application play a large role in this in my experience.
**After re-reading your post**
If you are shooting new brass and at different charge weights you will see differences in the shoulder as pressure increases. In that case I would take measurements off the higher charge weights and because they were once fired, I'd bump those one to two thou and check them in the chamber. After you get a second firing on them check them again. Just be aware that if you are running a lower pressure load you may have to go through this cycle a few times. Another trick you can try is to intentionally not size one completely for shoulder bump and do a chamber check with that piece, if it doesn't fit, keep bumping it back tell it does while taking measurements. Once it chambers write that down and subtract your 3 or so thou from it.
Click to expand...
memilanuk said:
^ this

The lube situation applies as well, as covered by others... but the brass doesn't fully fireform to the chamber for a few (2-3) firings unless you're running just stupid hot loads.
Click to expand...
Ok, this makes the most sense to me. It could be the lube since I'm using One Shot (even though I try to be consistent, probably not very since I'm spraying with a can), but could also be that it's not fully fireformed since I'm only 1F in. The node I found is on the higher side (33 N140 @2910), so the differences between the lighter loads working up to this might be the discrepancy; some of the cases haven't fully extended yet, yielding a false reading of a greater bump. Basically it didn't bump at all is my guess.

@Niles Coyote I like the idea of just letting the chamber tell you the story. These are FL dies with bushing.

Will the change in fully FF brass, bumped impact the node I found on virgin brass or is it generally the same? I've been reloading a minute, but haven't got into the weeds as most of you here, I'm sure. 6gt is new for me.

Thanks for the replies, all!
 
#2,274
climbing1 said:
Ok, this makes the most sense to me. It could be the lube since I'm using One Shot (even though I try to be consistent, probably not very since I'm spraying with a can), but could also be that it's not fully fireformed since I'm only 1F in. The node I found is on the higher side (33 N140 @2910), so the differences between the lighter loads working up to this might be the discrepancy; some of the cases haven't fully extended yet, yielding a false reading of a greater bump. Basically it didn't bump at all is my guess.

@Niles Coyote I like the idea of just letting the chamber tell you the story. These are FL dies with bushing.

Will the change in fully FF brass, bumped impact the node I found on virgin brass or is it generally the same? I've been reloading a minute, but haven't got into the weeds as most of you here, I'm sure. 6gt is new for me.

Thanks for the replies, all!
Click to expand...

My charge weights and accuracy loads on virgin brass and charge weights in brass that has been fired 5+ times have always been within .05% (.1-.2gr) for anything up to magnums.

Frequently my load data transfers directly over from virgin brass. That was the case with my 6gt...and last two 6.5x47s as well. On round 50-55 they hammered just as well as they did on round 550-555. The only change I got was speed and DOPE.
 
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#2,276
diggler1833 said:
My charge weights and accuracy loads on virgin brass and charge weights in brass that has been fired 5+ times have always been within .05% (.1-.2gr) for anything up to magnums.

Frequently my load data transfers directly over from virgin brass. That was the case with my 6gt...and last two 6.5x47s as well. On round 50-55 they hammered just as well as they did on round 550-555. The only change I got was speed and DOPE.
Click to expand...
Niles Coyote said:
My experience with the GT mirrors diggler1833's post above.
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That's encouraging. Was thinking I may have to start over.

I'm gonna do the chamber trick since the actual chamber is gospel and sneak up on that bump. Outside of some erosion, which I don't know how much realistically that would change in terms of thou, should be good-to-go to set and forget, regardless where the cycle of brass is, correct? I've got about 380 rounds on this barrel, so I'll try and keep some notes to see how much, if any, it'll move over time.
 
#2,277
climbing1 said:
That's encouraging. Was thinking I may have to start over.

I'm gonna do the chamber trick since the actual chamber is gospel and sneak up on that bump. Outside of some erosion, which I don't know how much realistically that would change in terms of thou, should be good-to-go to set and forget, regardless where the cycle of brass is, correct? I've got about 380 rounds on this barrel, so I'll try and keep some notes to see how much, if any, it'll move over time.
Click to expand...

Not sure I understand. By erosion - you should never see anything change in the chamber dimension of your barrel outside of the part where the rifling starts (leade into the lands)...and eventually the beginning of the rifling when that barrel gets a lot of rounds on it.

So if you mean shoulder erosion - that isn't going to happen. If you get your dies set to bump the shoulder of the brass at the datum point, say .002 back from fired, then you should be able to set and forget like you are asking (but ALWAYS double-check that first piece of brass that you resize). You will eventually see the length of the neck increase over time, but at .002 shoulder bump I'm seeing only about the same amount of growth in the case neck.

Here's a pretty decent article on the chamber for reference. If I misunderstood you, my apologies.

An Introduction to Rifle Chambers

An introduction to match rifle chambers and the features that matter.
bisonballistics.com bisonballistics.com
 
#2,279
I use homemade Lanolin/IPA lube where I put ~4 sprays into a 1 gallon ziplock bag with 100 cases and then work the cases around for a minute or so (not too dissimilar to spraying One Shot)… and I’ve found that just like with One Shot, waiting ~5 minutes or so for the carrier to flash off before sizing them is pretty important/crucial to the shoulder bump coming out consistent.

If you size while the cases are still too wet the bump will get a little wonky.
 
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#2,280
CK1.0 said:
I use homemade Lanolin/IPA lube where I put ~4 sprays into a 1 gallon ziplock bag with 100 cases and then work the cases around for a minute or so (not too dissimilar to spraying One Shot)… and I’ve found that just like with One Shot, waiting ~5 minutes or so for the carrier to flash off before sizing them is pretty important/crucial to the shoulder bump coming out consistent.

If you size while the cases are still too wet the bump will get a little wonky.
Click to expand...
Useful to know could explain a few things I've experienced recently.
 
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#2,281
diggler1833 said:
Not sure I understand. By erosion - you should never see anything change in the chamber dimension of your barrel outside of the part where the rifling starts (leade into the lands)...and eventually the beginning of the rifling when that barrel gets a lot of rounds on it.

So if you mean shoulder erosion - that isn't going to happen. If you get your dies set to bump the shoulder of the brass at the datum point, say .002 back from fired, then you should be able to set and forget like you are asking (but ALWAYS double-check that first piece of brass that you resize). You will eventually see the length of the neck increase over time, but at .002 shoulder bump I'm seeing only about the same amount of growth in the case neck.

Here's a pretty decent article on the chamber for reference. If I misunderstood you, my apologies.

An Introduction to Rifle Chambers

An introduction to match rifle chambers and the features that matter.
bisonballistics.com bisonballistics.com
Click to expand...
Ah, thanks for the clarity. I misspoke and am tracking. I am guilty of not letting the brass lube properly flash off, and that might be part of the variance as well. Appreciate the help, Diggler!
 
#2,282
Gogga said:
Useful to know could explain a few things I've experienced recently.
Click to expand...
I use the Hornady spray too. I spray brass in a Tupperware container and mix the brass by hand to help spread it evenly. (let it sit for a few min before running) I wipe the neck and shoulder area before running it in die to keep from getting any hydraulic denting. I have been doing it this way for years without any issues.
 
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#2,283
climbing1 said:
Will the change in fully FF brass, bumped impact the node I found on virgin brass or is it generally the same?
Click to expand...

Usually it's pretty close. I've had some specific situations where a 'max' load worked up with virgin brass needed to be backed off in order to not be over-pressure in sized brass. Basically some of the energy is being used to fully fire form that virgin case, and on subsequent loadings that extra energy can manifest as sticky bolt lift, clickers, etc. Or no pressure signs, just running a little faster than expected. It's not something to get *too* worried about; just don't be surprised if you need to back off the 'magic load' you worked up with virgin brass ;)
 
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#2,284
John Glidewell said:
I use the Hornady spray too. I spray brass in a Tupperware container and mix the brass by hand to help spread it evenly. (let it sit for a few min before running) I wipe the neck and shoulder area before running it in die to keep from getting any hydraulic denting. I have been doing it this way for years without any issues.
Click to expand...
Same for me, but I use an aluminum turkey tray and do 200pcs or so. Spray, rattle around for a bit, second spray then let the lube dry for a few minutes before sizing.
 
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#2,286
One Shot or lanolin/IPA mix spray lube + Tubberware, turkey tray, copy/printer paper box lid, or ziplock are all acceptable lol, that's the way to go.

Reloading is already tedious enough... guys who lube each case one at a time and then wipe each one of them off one at a time are nuts. 😝
 
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#2,287
Posting here since I've only had the issue with 6mm/6GT reloading.

I shot about four matches last year with 6gt and then shot the GAP Grind last summer. Found i had about 120 rounds that I could not chamber. Thanks to a squad mate I found the top of the neck/mouth was flared out. So much you could catch your fingernail on it. So unless your chamber is sloppy AF...that round isn't going in.

I've been diligent about case prep after that. Bought a giraud trimmer to help. But even first match this month I had about 10 cases with the issue. I know for a fact they wee fine before seating the bullet; 109 Bergers.

Loading some 115 dtacs to try and test today but probably won't because I'm seeing it already.

I've loaded ammo for about 12 years now. Never had any issues. But this has me stumped why this is happening.

I'm using a L Wilson chamber seater.
 
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#2,288
@farrar86 - Are you tumbling your cases? Wet or dry, if so? Did you trim this batch of cases and make sure you've chamfered and deburred correctly? Do you have a micrometer you can measure the case mouth on some rounds? Does it happen to all/most or just a few, relatively speaking?

It sounds like a case where either youve' got a significant burr/peening inside the neck, and it's not getting cleaned up before you seat a bullet - and therefore gets "pushed" to the outside of the case mouth.

If it's not that... could be other things. I don't have experience w/ Wilson chamber seat dies - can they be cleaned? You might have some piece of gunk/grit/junk in there that's somehow pushing on the case mouth just right
 
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#2,289
farrar86 said:
Posting here since I've only had the issue with 6mm/6GT reloading.

I shot about four matches last year with 6gt and then shot the GAP Grind last summer. Found i had about 120 rounds that I could not chamber. Thanks to a squad mate I found the top of the neck/mouth was flared out. So much you could catch your fingernail on it. So unless your chamber is sloppy AF...that round isn't going in.

I've been diligent about case prep after that. Bought a giraud trimmer to help. But even first match this month I had about 10 cases with the issue. I know for a fact they wee fine before seating the bullet; 109 Bergers.

Loading some 115 dtacs to try and test today but probably won't because I'm seeing it already.

I've loaded ammo for about 12 years now. Never had any issues. But this has me stumped why this is happening.

I'm using a L Wilson chamber seater.
Click to expand...

Can you detail your sizing process?

I had the flare once with a F/L sizing die, and once with a bushing die that was sizing the neck too much. Running a .002 mandrel through the case as a last step eliminated the bell.
 
#2,290
davere said:
@farrar86 - Are you tumbling your cases? Wet or dry, if so? Did you trim this batch of cases and make sure you've chamfered and deburred correctly? Do you have a micrometer you can measure the case mouth on some rounds? Does it happen to all/most or just a few, relatively speaking?

It sounds like a case where either youve' got a significant burr/peening inside the neck, and it's not getting cleaned up before you seat a bullet - and therefore gets "pushed" to the outside of the case mouth.

If it's not that... could be other things. I don't have experience w/ Wilson chamber seat dies - can they be cleaned? You might have some piece of gunk/grit/junk in there that's somehow pushing on the case mouth just right
Click to expand...
I deprime, wet tumble for about 45 minutes with ss media and water. Then pull out, dry over night, anneal, then fl size with bushing for neck tension. After all that and last step before I put them in my ready to load ben is to put each one through the trimmer. I'll try and get some photos of what they look lol before. And it's not all cases but enough to have me worried.

I checked the chamber die after that post above. Nothing stuck out that I could see literally or figuratively. Even ran a 6mm chamber brush through just in case.
 
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#2,291
farrar86 said:
I deprime, wet tumble for about 45 minutes with ss media and water. Then pull out, dry over night, anneal, then fl size with bushing for neck tension. After all that and last step before I put them in my ready to load ben is to put each one through the trimmer. I'll try and get some photos of what they look lol before. And it's not all cases but enough to have me worried.

I checked the chamber die after that post above. Nothing stuck out that I could see literally or figuratively. Even ran a 6mm chamber brush through just in case.
Click to expand...

Bunch of different ways to make accurate ammo, and I certainly don't know most of them. I'd been loading for 30 years, and learned last year that if you anneal as your first step...that your 'neck tension' will be a lot more uniform. I noticed it after reading a little on it and watching a video. Figured I'd give it a try. As I mandrel the last step, I previously frequently noticed that some cases slid over the mandrel more easily than others. After switching my process to where I anneal before anything else, that tension over the mandrel is a lot more consistent.
 
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#2,292
I don’t wet tumble personally - but I’ve seen that exact symptom from a buddy who wet tumbled - to the point that he had to go buy a drill and file to file down the corners of his case mouths at a match. Making sure he fully deburred and chamfered his cases fixed it - the problem is, the stainless pins will peen the case mouths
 
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#2,293
davere said:
I don’t wet tumble personally - but I’ve seen that exact symptom from a buddy who wet tumbled - to the point that he had to go buy a drill and file to file down the corners of his case mouths at a match. Making sure he fully deburred and chamfered his cases fixed it - the problem is, the stainless pins will peen the case mouths
Click to expand...
I was doing that in my hotel room down in Tennessee after day 1 freaking out that all my ammo was junk for day two.

I've never had issues wet tumbling with ss media personally. But not brushing the possibility to the side. I've been taking a lyman chanfer tool to the outside but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
 
#2,294
IMO wet-tumbling is for blaster ammo only (like 9mm or range-pickup-brass-loaded 5.56).

Wet-tumbling is fairly violent on the cases (as far as having them crashing into each other), and it will eventually cause peening/belling of case mouths and bite you in the ass. Most guys can probably cut their SDs in half just by not doing it anymore.

An outside chamfer won't fix it if it's gotten bad. You can fix the belled cases with a 6mm Lee collet die and a washer or two slipped over the case and used as a spacer/standoff in between the die and the shell holder... the die won't touch the shoulder of the cases or size the cases or anything, but it will allow you to squash the case mouth/neck back into shape against its built-in mandrel. Luckily brass is soft, after a firing they'll be back to normal...
 
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#2,295
CK1.0 said:
IMO wet-tumbling is for blaster ammo only (like 9mm or range-pickup-brass-loaded 5.56).

Wet-tumbling is fairly violent on the cases (as far as having them crashing into each other), and it will eventually cause peening/belling of case mouths and bite you in the ass. Most guys can probably cut their SDs in half just by not doing it anymore.

An outside chamfer won't fix it if it's gotten bad. You can fix the belled cases with a 6mm Lee collet die and a washer or two slipped over the case and used as a spacer/standoff in between the die and the shell holder... the die won't touch the shoulder of the cases or size the cases or anything, but it will allow you to squash the case mouth/neck back into shape against its built-in mandrel. Luckily brass is soft, after a firing they'll be back to normal...
Click to expand...
Mind posting a picture? Im not able to invasion that.
 
#2,297
CK1.0 said:
IMO wet-tumbling is for blaster ammo only (like 9mm or range-pickup-brass-loaded 5.56).

Wet-tumbling is fairly violent on the cases (as far as having them crashing into each other), and it will eventually cause peening/belling of case mouths and bite you in the ass. Most guys can probably cut their SDs in half just by not doing it anymore.

An outside chamfer won't fix it if it's gotten bad. You can fix the belled cases with a 6mm Lee collet die and a washer or two slipped over the case and used as a spacer/standoff in between the die and the shell holder... the die won't touch the shoulder of the cases or size the cases or anything, but it will allow you to squash the case mouth/neck back into shape against its built-in mandrel. Luckily brass is soft, after a firing they'll be back to normal...
Click to expand...

Yep. A taper crimp too.
 
#2,300
farrar86 said:
I've never had issues wet tumbling with ss media personally. But not brushing the possibility to the side. I've been taking a lyman chanfer tool to the outside but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
Click to expand...

Half the problem is *inside* - the peening effectively rounds an edge inside and and out. If you're not chamfering the inside of the neck, too, you're only getting half of it. When you seat a bullet, it pushes that peened edged outward, and you get what you're seeing. If the cutter on your Giraud is adjusted correctly, it should do both operations for you (chamfer inside, deburr outside) - the only issue there is that it's difficult to adjust the Giraud to only do those things and not shorten the case at the same time (GT cases don't grow very fast), but it can be done - the Whidden click adjustable die rings help a bit, with that.
 
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