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20 amp breaker tripped and wont reset.. yes not a shooting topic

You know how many electricians it takes to change a light bulb?



Five. One to do it and four others to stand around with a smirk and say, "Why so slow, grandpa? I could have had that done and been to lunch and halfway back, already."
 
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You know how many electricians it takes to change a light bulb?



Five. One to do it and four others to stand around with a smirk and say, "Why so slow, grandpa? I could have had that done and been to lunch and halfway back, already."
That’s not true! Electricians are never that polite.
 
I know I shouldn't say this, but GFI outlets are garbage. I would replace it with a standard outlet as long as it's in a weatherproof box OR if it's inside the garage even that wouldn't matter.
HOWEVER, if you're renting probably better off legally to not touch any of it and let the landlord deal with it.
As for WP--no clue
ETA: weather proof---So obvious that I didn't think of it

Fuck GFCI outlets with a rusty T post wrapped in barbed wire. I’m on the coast and they are the bane of my existence. Did I mention Fuck GFCI outlets?


You two realize they're installed to prevent you getting electrocuted?

We generally use ARC/GFCI breakers. Have much fewer problems. However, 99% of the time I'm called to troubleshoot it's the homeowner plugging in an old used up appliance that's in need of repair or replacement.

Also, buy commercial grade WP GFCI receptacles next time. They last much longer than the crap residential ones. That goes for pretty much all trim though. Residential grade is code for "good enough to make a new home warranty".
 
You two realize they're installed to prevent you getting electrocuted?

We generally use ARC/GFCI breakers. Have much fewer problems. However, 99% of the time I'm called to troubleshoot it's the homeowner plugging in an old used up appliance that's in need of repair or replacement.

Also, buy commercial grade WP GFCI receptacles next time. They last much longer than the crap residential ones. That goes for pretty much all trim though. Residential grade is code for "good enough to make a new home warranty".
Around here, GFCI outlets trip if someone two houses down has a wet fart.
 
Around here, GFCI outlets trip if someone two houses down has a wet fart.
Or....
If someone doesn't know what a ground spike/spear is.

I've seen plenty of them cut down to 2-3-4 foot because it was just too damn hard to drive in.
Here's a tip.....drive it in a foot, pull it, then fill hole with water and try again, goes right in, every time, easy.
 
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Or....
If someone doesn't know what a ground spike/spear is.

I've seen plenty of them cut down to 2-3-4 foot because it was just too damn hard to drive in.
Here's a tip.....drive it in a foot, pull it, then fill hole with water and try again, goes right in, every time, easy.
Ground electrode testing eliminates the assholes that try to pull that off. If they won't drive here they have to be drilled and backfilled with conductive backfill, or trench ground installed.
 
Ground electrode testing eliminates the assholes that try to pull that off. If they won't drive here they have to be drilled and backfilled with conductive backfill, or trench ground installed.
I hate Chem rods, but in some places that is the only solution. Shit load of them on cell towers all over the S/E.

Most folks don't test rods after a lighting hit, that always made more bank for me.
 
OMG, please tell me you followed NONE of the advice given here…

Get an electrician out there to troubleshoot the circuit. The breaker you circled is not a gfci breaker so you are drawing an overcurrent somewhere in the circuit. It is possible that the breaker is weak but not likely considering your other issues mentioned. In the meantime disconnect anything plugged into that circuit and see if that clears the problem by chance. It sounds more like a moisture/water problem somewhere that could take some time to track down. If you are aware of any leaks or water infiltration that would be a good place to start.

Good luck, hopefully you get fixed up quickly it could be dangerous to not have a fan in the bathroom if you’ve been eating spicy food.
"OMG, please tell me you followed NONE of the advice given here"

Including this advice.^^^^^

Just call the landlord and let him deal with it.
 
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"OMG, please tell me you followed NONE of the advice given here"

Including this advice.^^^^^

Just call the landlord and let him deal with it.
1722353362515.gif

Literally the next sentence:

“Get an electrician out there to troubleshoot the circuit.”

Your reading skills are top notch…
 
Or....
If someone doesn't know what a ground spike/spear is.

I've seen plenty of them cut down to 2-3-4 foot because it was just too damn hard to drive in.
Here's a tip.....drive it in a foot, pull it, then fill hole with water and try again, goes right in, every time, easy.
Shiiiiit. The ground is so rocky here pouring water in the hole aint gonna do shit. I had to trench bury.
 
Looks like Weather Proof Outlet..on the symbols.
Since its the only breaker tripped...you can not jumper it...it's internally tripped. Which is a problem, it won't reset for a reason. Usually shorted out, If just overload it would reset when things cool off.
That jumper idea is very dangerous, what if you hook up the wrong pole?

So...replace the wiring with a ground wire, plug, back to panel, to guarantee continuous ground, replace the GFI plug, replace the circuit breaker. Done...

It has to work cause it's the only problem in the electrical control panel.

Expose the breaker, pull the 4 screws out that hold the panel cover to the box.
Shut off the main breaker would be a good idea, to start for the amateur, but the lugs and bars at the top are still hot, 230 volts.
It can be done hot ...easy job for and electrician.
And with all the bad suggestions, I'd recommend an electrician.
I was an electricial apprentice for 2.5 yrs, before deciding to becoming a machinist...and did this stuff daily.
 
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Looks like Weather Proof Outlet..on the symbols.
Since its the only breaker tripped...you can not jumper it...it's internally tripped. Which is a problem, it won't reset for a reason. Usually shorted out, If just overload it would reset when things cool off.
That jumper idea is very dangerous, what if you hook up the wrong pole?

So...replace the wiring with a ground wire plug, nato panel, to guarantee continuous ground, replace the GFI plug, replace the circuit breaker. Done...

It has to work cause it's the only problem in the electrical control panel.

Expose the breaker, pull the 4 screws out that hold the panel cover to the box.
Shut off the main breaker would be a good idea, to start for the amateur, but the lugs and bars at the top are still hot, 230 volts.
It can be done hot ...easy job for and electrician.
And with all the bad suggestions, I'd recommend an electrician.
I was an electricial apprentice for 2.5 yrs, before deciding to becoming a machinist...and did this stuff daily.
And wisely, you got out of it. I have not been able to get out of it. I may just have to retire.
What's nice about the experience is, I was able wire my whole shop, so now that I'm a retired machinist, and have 2 lathes and a real Bridgeport mill...to help finance my shooting hobby, by chambering my own barrels, make muzzle breaks, sizing dies for roughing out wildcats, neck turning in a lathe, is easy...making brass cases, bolt knobs, copper bullets, altering most everything, magazine boxes, longer bolt throw, 4.020" 300 RUM, AR 10 to feed 2.960" cartridges, built 338 RCM in AR 10, or AR 15 in 30 RAR. Chambered R700 for 510 Whisper, hybrid cases altered.
Most anything to suit my tastes, is explored.
So yes, changing trades, was a good decision for me...now more than ever, because it gives me plenty to do and keep the mind active, in retirement.
 
Looks like Weather Proof Outlet..on the symbols.
Since its the only breaker tripped...you can not jumper it...it's internally tripped. Which is a problem, it won't reset for a reason. Usually shorted out, If just overload it would reset when things cool off.
That jumper idea is very dangerous, what if you hook up the wrong pole?

So...replace the wiring with a ground wire plug, nato panel, to guarantee continuous ground, replace the GFI plug, replace the circuit breaker. Done...

It has to work cause it's the only problem in the electrical control panel.

Expose the breaker, pull the 4 screws out that hold the panel cover to the box.
Shut off the main breaker would be a good idea, to start for the amateur, but the lugs and bars at the top are still hot, 230 volts.
It can be done hot ...easy job for and electrician.
And with all the bad suggestions, I'd recommend an electrician.
I was an electricial apprentice for 2.5 yrs, before deciding to becoming a machinist...and did this stuff daily.

What's nice about the experience is, I was able wire my whole shop, so now that I'm a retired machinist, and have 2 lathes and a real Bridgeport mill...to help finance my shooting hobby, by chambering my own barrels, make muzzle breaks, sizing dies for roughing out wildcats, neck turning in a lathe, is easy...making brass cases, bolt knobs, copper bullets, altering most everything, magazine boxes, longer bolt throw, 4.020" 300 RUM, AR 10 to feed 2.960" cartridges, built 338 RCM in AR 10, or AR 15 in 30 RAR. Chambered R700 for 510 Whisper, hybrid cases altered.
Most anything to suit my tastes, is explored.
So yes, changing trades, was a good decision for me...now more than ever, because it gives me plenty to do and keep the mind active, in retirement.
Sounds like a sweet set-up.

I have been stuffing money into a simple IRA and a sizable chunk of that I had to convert into an annuity so that my wife could qualify for Medicaid (long and confusing story for another time.)

But I would definitely like to do load development. But I know that once you start, the bug has bitten you and you get GAS and an ever-increasing collection of stuff.
 
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I worked as an electrician for over 40 years from residential to switch yard meaning 24 V controls to 345KVA switch yards. getting shocked is
the least of your worries seen it too many times. You do know what a slice of burnt bacon looks like?


Looks like he is cranking in or removing a circuit breaker maybe 13.8 KVA

 
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I worked as an electrician for over 40 years from residential to switch yard meaning 24 V controls to 345KVA switch yards. getting shocked is
the least of your worries seen it too many times. You do know what a slice of burnt bacon looks like?


Looks like he is cranking in or removing a circuit breaker maybe 13.8 KVA


Well, He won’t do that again.
 
I worked as an electrician for over 40 years from residential to switch yard meaning 24 V controls to 345KVA switch yards. getting shocked is
the least of your worries seen it too many times. You do know what a slice of burnt bacon looks like?


Looks like he is cranking in or removing a circuit breaker maybe 13.8 KVA


So... you're a masochist.

Tell me more....
 
The IBEW used to send out monthly news letters, many yrs ago, at union safety meetings, journeymen and apprentices in construction and lineman, were told of electricians who died that month and why.
The arc/flash blast, it's an intense bright light, with heat, and molten metal blast, like a grenade...most electricians have experienced, witnessed, or walked in after the aftermath....
I can appear unforgiving on mistakes....but it's just energy, ready to flow...never get between the line and load, on a hot wire, especially a heavy load.
That's why many should probably call an electrician.
 
I worked as an electrician for over 40 years from residential to switch yard meaning 24 V controls to 345KVA switch yards. getting shocked is
the least of your worries seen it too many times. You do know what a slice of burnt bacon looks like?


Looks like he is cranking in or removing a circuit breaker maybe 13.8 KVA


Went to do a inspection & 24 hr no break load bank on a shit plant in St. Pete Fla long ago. They had just installed a pair of 2.5 Mw Alco's that generated at 13.8Kv. I was inspecting the crank in/outs and seen a second Kirk key, stopped the job right there until we inspected the whole key control system, and its SOP.
The city eng wanted to know what the problem was and once explained, the look on his face said it all. Then he said he had never been involved with such a system before.

add
Years later a hospital across the bridge was blowing down one of their boilers. On a pad in the same room was open frame 5Kv gear. The operator went for coffee, & the room drain plugged up, once the water hit the open frame you know what happened. 4 foot above the pad everything was gone. I had 16 generators running that place for a week, while we were spooling off 500 & 750 mcm to rewire all the underground 480. The open frame was so old, it all had to be replaced. The whole operation was like rebuilding a TV set while never losing a single frame of viewing during the whole show.
 
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I am an electrician. I couldn't make myself read two pages of "I'm not an electrician". If the breaker trips every time you reset it, you have a dead short somewhere. If it won't even reset, it could be as simple as a bad breaker. If you're not confident messing with electricity, just don't.
 

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I am an electrician. I couldn't make myself read two pages of "I'm not an electrician". If the breaker trips every time you reset it, you have a dead short somewhere. If it won't even reset, it could be as simple as a bad breaker. If you're not confident messing with electricity, just don't.
A week ago, I couldn't spell "electrician."

Now I are one.
 
Went to do a inspection & 24 hr no break load bank on a shit plant in St. Pete Fla long ago. They had just installed a pair of 2.5 Mw Alco's that generated at 13.8Kv. I was inspecting the crank in/outs and seen a second Kirk key, stopped the job right there until we inspected the whole key control system, and its SOP.
The city eng wanted to know what the problem was and once explained, the look on his face said it all. Then he said he had never been involved with such a system before.

add
Years later a hospital across the bridge was blowing down one of their boilers. On a pad in the same room was open frame 5Kv gear. The operator went for coffee, & the room drain plugged up, once the water hit the open frame you know what happened. 4 foot above the pad everything was gone. I had 16 generators running that place for a week, while we were spooling off 500 & 750 mcm to rewire all the underground 480. The open frame was so old, it all had to be replaced. The whole operation was like rebuilding a TV set while never losing a single frame of viewing during the whole show.
I am retired and don’t miss any of it
 
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Electrician found the cause.

Outdoor outlet on the patio went bad. wires were making contact with ground wire ?

Replaced the faulty outlet and all is working normal
I knew that was what problem was.

Anyway, so was this outlet not a problem before or did the other soi-disant electrician not catch it?

Good news to hear that it is fixed.

Just be glad you don't have a Federal Pacific Satb-Lok panel. Our nickname for that is cigar lighter.
 
I knew that was what problem was.

Anyway, so was this outlet not a problem before or did the other soi-disant electrician not catch it?

Good news to hear that it is fixed.

Just be glad you don't have a Federal Pacific Satb-Lok panel. Our nickname for that is cigar lighter.
Shit canned that Federal firestarter 20 years ago.
 
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Electrician found the cause.

Outdoor outlet on the patio went bad. wires were making contact with ground wire ?

Replaced the faulty outlet and all is working normal
Huh?
Did I miss something here? "Wires were making contact with ground wire" so the electrician replaced the faulty outlet?
 
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Huh?
Did I miss something here? "Wires were making contact with ground wire" so the electrician replaced the faulty outlet?

he cleaned up the wires inside the outlet and replaced the 20+ year old outlet.

I use this outlet to plug in my electric lawn mower. I'm guessing the outlet was moving around a bit while I walked the lawn ?

Anyway, the breaker doesnt trip anymore and that was the only change made to the circuit
 
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I knew that was what problem was.

Anyway, so was this outlet not a problem before or did the other soi-disant electrician not catch it?

Good news to hear that it is fixed.

Just be glad you don't have a Federal Pacific Satb-Lok panel. Our nickname for that is cigar lighter.
Ah don't talk bad about the Federal Pacific never trips. They have made me a bunch of money.
 
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I knew that was what problem was.

Anyway, so was this outlet not a problem before or did the other soi-disant electrician not catch it?

Good news to hear that it is fixed.

Just be glad you don't have a Federal Pacific Satb-Lok panel. Our nickname for that is cigar lighter.
In a house built in 1985...........lived here for almost 25 years...........realized I had a Federal Pacific.............had it replaced about 8 years ago..............
 
Ah don't talk bad about the Federal Pacific never trips. They have made me a bunch of money.
Here in Florida, insurance companies now require a detailed four-point inspection in addition to a wind mitigation inspection to write a policy. Homes built prior to 1976 get additional inspections so that insurance companies don’t take on any of your risk. Ironic, isn’t it?

Included in those inspections are the above mentioned panels. They must be replaced before a policy is written. That and roofs over 10 yo, A/C units over 10 yo, poly water piping (but not the new garbage, strangely), and corroded water stops. That’s just some of the big hitters. Owning or buying an older house means you better be handy and have a bunch of extra work done or no insurance from The Families.
 
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