223 version of the RPR

Looks like the bolt got dropped in a parts bin. Hmmm ... I'll get some pics of it tonight for comparison's sake. Took 80gr CCs up to 25.3gr Re15 today at 300. Seemed to like 24.9gr best with 2788fps across the Magnetospeed. Got cratered primers on all charges but pierced one at 25.1gr. Going to try 4895, Varget and 8208 with SMKs next. Also have some 80gr ELDMs to try.

Anyone try 90gr SMKs yet?
 
Looks like the bolt got dropped in a parts bin. Hmmm ... I'll get some pics of it tonight for comparison's sake. Took 80gr CCs up to 25.3gr Re15 today at 300. Seemed to like 24.9gr best with 2788fps across the Magnetospeed. Got cratered primers on all charges but pierced one at 25.1gr. Going to try 4895, Varget and 8208 with SMKs next. Also have some 80gr ELDMs to try.

Anyone try 90gr SMKs yet?
Mine loves the 80 eld's over 23.9 grains of 8208
 
After reading through all these primer/firing pin hassles I'm glad I picked up a $250 Howa 223 barreled action from PTG. I can live with the 1-9 barrel for now, considering that I'll be money ahead even after dropping it in a KRG and won't have to be sending it back and forth to get shit fixed (that should have been right to begin with).
 
Mine loves the 80 eld's over 23.9 grains of 8208

Just got done loading my test batch of 8208 and the ELD 80s. My BTO to give me .005" jump is 1.875". COAL ends up at 2.405". My 80gr Nosler seat .025" longer and still has .015" jump. These ELDS are an odd ogive shape.

Pic is of ELD and CC loaded rounds side by side
 

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I'm cleaning this sucker and the bolt is funny. You think this is damage, or just sloppy machining? I got a few angles to show the missing chips on each third of the bolt. I have these pics to compare them to later if it continues.

The firing pin is still round after a bunch of pierced primers.

https://i.imgur.com/l9ei0Xd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SLlv6zE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wg6H2zz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Eo56N5Y.jpg

Here is mine. No such dings that I can see.
37625716202_e32f74b56a_z.jpg
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/flic.kr\/p\/ZjRCyS"}[/IMG2]
 
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I appreciate it. It's something I've never seen before. It probably isn't important at all, but I will keep an eye on it.

She shoots junk ammo very nicely. Sub MOA by a longshot. I am very pleased. This caliber benefits from the 4 mags they've given me. Each one already has over 100 rounds through it. The action only hesitated once feeding so far, and 5 or so times extracting. I'll accept 99% in a bolt gun.

The barrel cleaned up quick both times so far. I'll probably look to OEM when it's shot out.
 
Mine loves the 80 eld's over 23.9 grains of 8208

Well 23.9gr of 8209 seemed to be a good mix under the 80gr ELDM. 2797fps/9fps SD in virgin Lapua brass seated .010" from the lands. Here is my 300yd test target:
37502781340_f6fbe64962_z[1].jpg


23.7gr also showed promise with a shooter-induced left-side wanderer:
37052221774_9473f003b9_z.jpg
 
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Learned that Possum Hollow is now making a cleaning rod guide for the 5.56 RPR. It's item #311 and cost $25 shipped to my door 2 days later. I have one of their guides for my R700 SA and another for my R721 (same as R700LA). All 3 fit perfectly and work great. Made of Delrin, so no worries about causing receiver damage.
 
Well 23.9gr of 8209 seemed to be a good mix under the 80gr ELDM. 2797fps/9fps SD in virgin Lapua brass seated .010" from the lands. Here is my 300yd test target:
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/farm5.staticflickr.com\/4475\/37502781340_f6fbe64962_z.jpg"}[/IMG2]

23.7gr also showed promise with a shooter-induced left-side wanderer:
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/farm5.staticflickr.com\/4487\/37052221774_9473f003b9_z.jpg"}[/IMG2]
I had good results with that combination up to 2850 FPS with very low SD’s I just backed off cause I was having bad primer cratering due to the shift firing pin fitment. I may try and file it down shorter like someone suggest in this tread earlier
 
I still get mild cratering, but only at upper velocity/pressure loads since I sent my rifle back to Ruger. It is nothing like it was when I first shot it though.
 
I still get mild cratering, but only at upper velocity/pressure loads since I sent my rifle back to Ruger. It is nothing like it was when I first shot it though.

I may file mine down a bit but plan on having it bushed at some point. It’s turned into one of my favorite rifles so I hate to have it out of commission for any length of time.
 
I may file mine down a bit but plan on having it bushed at some point. It’s turned into one of my favorite rifles so I hate to have it out of commission for any length of time.

Mine could use shortening also. It measures 0.057". An M16 Firing Pin protrusion gauge is MIN- 0.028" and MAX- 0.036". I will probably take mine down to .035-.045" at first, but I need to compare the extractor clearance first. If that doesn't cure my last remaining cratering issues, bushing is my last resort also. I don't think the factory is capable of providing the bolt/firing pin clearance we expect based on our custom rifles. They just have tolerances too "open" to allow reliability for a wide variety of ammo and conditions.
 
I don't think the factory is capable of providing the bolt/firing pin clearance we expect based on our custom rifles. They just have tolerances too "open" to allow reliability for a wide variety of ammo and conditions.
Funny how other production bolt action rifle makers seem to be able to not have this problem.

I was seriously thinking of picking one up till I saw this thread. Don't have the time or patience to deal with problems that should not exist.
 
Measured my .223 Remington 700. .058 protrusion. Same cratering problems as friend's RPR. His factory .223 RPR is actually a little more accurate than my bartlien barreled 700.

Both guns able to consistently hit 8" plate at 1000 yards so I'm not worried about it.
 
I had never heard of bushing pin holes. Does ruger do this? I'm assuming you guys mean having a gunsmith do it.


No Ruger doesn’t do this a smith will. The firing pin is turned down and fitted to a bushing that’s installed in the bolt face, this eliminates the excess play and slop in the firing pin fitment that contributes to primer cratering at normal load pressures.
 
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Would you guys recommend this rifle to someone who has the RPR in 6mm Creedmoor? I'm looking at getting the .223 version for practice purposes and maybe for my son to use.
 
Would you guys recommend this rifle to someone who has the RPR in 6mm Creedmoor? I'm looking at getting the .223 version for practice purposes and maybe for my son to use.
I would definitely recommend one, sure they have a few minor issues but most factory rifles do and for the money you can’t beat them in my opinion. If your looking for a trainer rifle it’s best to have one set up like your main rifle so this is as close as your gonna get.

 
I agree, and in some ways disagree, with Bull81.

Yes, most certainly I would recommend this rifle as a tool for a young shooter to learn on, or to get a wife/girlfriend into the sport. It would also be something to challenge yourself with and learn wind calls better on those short-course (700yd and less) matches.

In my opinion, it would be better to spend the $2500-3000 you would pony up on the rifle/scope package, plus the extra money on .223 components/ammo on more ammo/components and another couple barrels for the 6CM if you are looking for a "trainer" or practice rifle.
 
Well I filed down the firing pin to .040 and all my cratering problems went away. Problems is accuracy went to shit barely holding 1 moa, es and ss’s went through the roof, and velocity dropped from 2787 to 2750. I played around with load devolvement again and the numbers were all over the place until I got to 24.5 gr of 8208 and the accuracy returned and es/sd number were at least decent. I’m still very skeptical due to only having 5 rounds of data. Think I’m gonna send the bolt off to have it bushed instead of wasting time trying to make it work right like it is.
 
Well I filed down the firing pin to .040 and all my cratering problems went away. Problems is accuracy went to shit barely holding 1 moa, es and ss’s went through the roof, and velocity dropped from 2787 to 2750. I played around with load devolvement again and the numbers were all over the place until I got to 24.5 gr of 8208 and the accuracy returned and es/sd number were at least decent. I’m still very skeptical due to only having 5 rounds of data. Think I’m gonna send the bolt off to have it bushed instead of wasting time trying to make it work right like it is.

I started over on load development and found 2 nodes at much higher velocities both easily holding under 1/2 moa, I'm also using a much slower powder
 
I started over on load development and found 2 nodes at much higher velocities both easily holding under 1/2 moa, I'm also using a much slower powder


I ran another 5 round test with the 24.5 gr loaf and it was everywhere, I’m getting inconsistent ignition is the only thing I can come up with. I’m shipping the bolt out today to have it bushed and the firing pin reworked.
 
I ran another 5 round test with the 24.5 gr loaf and it was everywhere, I’m getting inconsistent ignition is the only thing I can come up with. I’m shipping the bolt out today to have it bushed and the firing pin reworked.

That's weird. My es for 5 rounds have been about 20fps and I'm down to .035 protrusion now. Who are you sending your bolt to and what are they charging? I'll probably send my out soon as well, I'm still randomly piecing primers, about 8 to 10 per 100 rounds
 
That's weird. My es for 5 rounds have been about 20fps and I'm down to .035 protrusion now. Who are you sending your bolt to and what are they charging? I'll probably send my out soon as well, I'm still randomly piecing primers, about 8 to 10 per 100 rounds

Up until I filed down the pin I was getting excellent results. For a 20 round string I was getting single digit SD’s can’t remember what off the top of my head. Now that load is garbage. I’m sending to Gre’tan rifles, they charge 80 bucks
 
I don’t know what’s up with my loads but at 23.75 grains of 8208 I was at 2690 fps using the 80 gr eld. Some here are claiming over 2800 at 23.9. What gives? I wouldn’t expect that much of a difference. I load into the lands, can that slow the bullet down over 150 fps?
 
I don’t know what’s up with my loads but at 23.75 grains of 8208 I was at 2690 fps using the 80 gr eld. Some here are claiming over 2800 at 23.9. What gives? I wouldn’t expect that much of a difference. I load into the lands, can that slow the bullet down over 150 fps?

Some barrels are faster than others, could be a difference in powder lots, or a combination of the two. I was getting 2787 with the eld’s and 23.9 of 8208 until I filled the firing pin down and the velocity dropped. Never could get it to act right after that so I sent the bolt off to have it bushed. I’ll report back when the bolt returns. In my rifle 23.9 hrs was a fairly mild load and I was able to get up over 2850 with no pressure signs other the primer cratering that was cause by the firing pin fitment. Loading in the lands will increase pressure I’ve had good luck jumping the eld’s.020. What’s your over all lenght
 
I don’t know what’s up with my loads but at 23.75 grains of 8208 I was at 2690 fps using the 80 gr eld. Some here are claiming over 2800 at 23.9. What gives? I wouldn’t expect that much of a difference. I load into the lands, can that slow the bullet down over 150 fps?

Believe it or not primer choice has an influence on MV
 
I have run up to 24.3gr of 8208 in a Lapua case under the 80gr ELDM and that got me 2840fps with a .015" jump. 23.9gr gave me GREAT accuracy and 2800fps with either a Remington 7 1/2 or CCI BR4 primers.
 
Many barrels speed up as they are broken in. I don't know how many rounds you have down the pipe but it could be that it will speed up a bit if you keep shooting. I wonder if any one knows how many rounds it takes to reach max MV in a .223?
 
I am considering this rifle as a PRS trainer, meant for high round count and getting alot of barricade beating and magazine manipulation. What is the overall consensus as far as its feeding reliability. .223 tactical type bolt guns have never been known as super reliable feeding but do you think this is better or worse than a R700 clone set up in my choice of DBM? For the price cant be beat and its a no brainier but if I am fighting with magazines I am training myself to muscle memory something else. I have an AXMC, so the RPR is actually super close with 2 stage trigger, 70 degre bolt, the chassis look. I am all ears.
 
I am considering this rifle as a PRS trainer, meant for high round count and getting alot of barricade beating and magazine manipulation. What is the overall consensus as far as its feeding reliability. .223 tactical type bolt guns have never been known as super reliable feeding but do you think this is better or worse than a R700 clone set up in my choice of DBM? For the price cant be beat and its a no brainier but if I am fighting with magazines I am training myself to muscle memory something else. I have an AXMC, so the RPR is actually super close with 2 stage trigger, 70 degre bolt, the chassis look. I am all ears.
I’ve not had one single problem feeding with mine, I’ve only used the two mags that came with the rifle so I can’t speak for any aftermarket mags. I’ve run factory loads at 2.260 oal and habdloads our to 2.465 oal none of them have giving me any problems at all
 
Thats cool I guess in my eyes or for what I want to be able to get from it is to be able to run it like I stole it and it cycle and go bang, if it meant it being a 3/4 MOA rifle instead of a 1/4 MOA gun I would gladly make that trade.
 
Nothing has been posted to this thread for almost a month. Has Ruger corrected the firing pin problem? If they have, what is the serial number that has the correction? Has anyone had their bolt bushed and did it correct the primer cratering problem?
 
Nothing has been posted to this thread for almost a month. Has Ruger corrected the firing pin problem? If they have, what is the serial number that has the correction? Has anyone had their bolt bushed and did it correct the primer cratering problem?
Ruger hasn’t addressed the firing pin issue as far as I know. I had mine bushed by Gre-tan rifles and it definitely fixed the problem. Even if ruger fixes the problem I would still recommend having bushed, the fitment is amazing
 
Bull81, thanks for the response. Could you comment on the time frame and cost? It was suggested earlier that the wait was two to four weeks at a cost of $80.00.
no problem fella, the cost was $80 bucks and I had the bolt back in about 2 weeks which was faster than what was initially stated 3 to 4 weeks. I ran a pressure test with 8208 up to 24.2 gr and 2875 fps and the primers still looked new minus the perfectly shaped little dent in the middle. That was the heaviest charge I had loaded and haven’t had time since to work on anymore loads for this rifle yet. I will report back once I find the pressure limits and rework up a good load
 
.223 with 80 grain ELD-M bullets at 2800 FPS. Run that through your ballistic calculator. It is more capable at 1000 yards than the combos most people are using in their .308. If you reload you can shoot the ELD's for less than 40 cents per round. Some people still think they need a .300 Win Mag to shoot a White Tail deer at 75 yards...

You are absolutely correct in your accuracy statement.

We are getting very good results with 75-90 grainers. 28", 1-7 barrels. I will put this rpr 223 up against anything here to 600 yds. Wind reading skills will be in effect also.

Bartlein SS, 4 groove barrels, 28", 1-7 twist, White Oak 2" float tube, Tubb grip, Medesha stock, sling or bipod, titanium shroud, reworked trigger, Vortex scope or Phoenix match rear sight w/ 30mm Goliath front sight.

Best loads so far using R15, CCI BR4 or R 7 1/2 primers, Lapua and LC brass and 75, 77, 80, 82 and 90 grn HPBT bullets.

Trying ackley improved shortly. It should be awesome with the added velocity if we can find a node.

Lots of talk here. Sometimes like arfcom!

Maybe we could see some 20 shot groups shot with these "Sniper" rifles some of you shoot your thousand yard gongs with.

Just sayin.

 
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Anyone have any luck getting there’s fixed by Ruger?Mine is on it’s way back Ruger replaced the bolt body and firing pin along with a bunch of other stuff I had concerns with.Mine was actually piercing primers on factory ammo.
 
Well I have conclusions on a single load device for the 556/223.

There are none. The bobsled does not work and I have ruined a 308 AI mag and a ruger 223 mag trying every mod I could come up with.
pvc, epoxy, etc.
I even contacted ruger. They do not care.

This rifle was accurate out of the box and is now a tack driver with a 28" Bartlein.

However, we cannot really use them in FTR or many prone matches because of the single load issue. One cannot maintain a good position having to load and change the mag every shot. Must less own 22 mags! LMAO!

The 223 mag is the same outer dimensions as the larger calibers but it relies on the feed lips holding down the back of the round so it will enter the chamber at the correct angle. These lips will not let you single load by pushing the round down thru the port.

Removing a small amount off the lips allow the round to fall in place on the mag but they nose dive without the feed lip holding the back of case downward as the bolt moves forward.
What a pita, bunch of BS and disappointment this is.

I am worn out with this so if anyone can come up with something that works please let us know.

Also I mentioned above going to a 223 ackley improved barrel in 28", 1-7. Throated the chamber to 1.990 for ogive on a sierra 80.

We did 2 rifles and what a change. 80 vld and 90 hpbt are amazing at mag length. Chrono at 2940 fps for the 90's with R15 and room for more powder. Less than 1/2 moa. The Ackley Improved round also feeds from the mag with no problems.

We only shot 5 different bullets that day (77 hpbt, 77 tipped bt, 80 hpbt, 90 vld and 90 hpbt) so I will post some better load results when the weather gets better.

We shot some of our 223 rounds we had loaded for our AR's and fire formed additional brass. They shot knots also. To fire form you just shoot your 223/556 round and the brass is formed.

If you decide to change out the factory barrel I recommend going ackley improved. Then you can stay up with many larger calibers and out shoot many of them with the 223 bullets, primers, powder and cases you have on hand already.

All you will need is a set of dies. The Lee works fantastic and costs about $32.

We plan to re chamber some of our AR match rifles also.
 
For CZ 527's, I made a dummy mag from a block of delrin. Essentially, I milled it to outside mag dimensions and a slot for the mag catch. Then using a ball end mill, I cut a groove longitudinally to let the round sit high enough to be picked up by the bolt, and then used an straight end mill to bring the top of the block down low enough to allow the bolt to pass over it. IIRC, I think I had a 5* cant (lower in back, than front) for the groove done with the ball end mill, so that the round fed into the chamber.

Might be something that would work for you(?).
 
Not sure what it is about the RPR that you can't toss a round in through the ejection port and shut the bolt on it but that kinda sucks

I can do that just fine in a Howa 1500 223 (with MDT plastic mags) and the round goes in the chamber every single time without jamming or hitting anything.

On firing pin subject, I wonder if Ruger did not copy some of the design parameters that work so well in ARs like firing pin hole diameter, firing pin protrusion, and firing pin tip geometry? Seems there would be no problems with pierced primers if you copied design elements that are time-proven.

Oh well, missed opportunity by Ruger.