6.5 Grendel

DoubleNaughtSpy just posted video of shooting hogs with it and I think it’s as you guessed, frags a bit early and hogs ran off a bit. First-round hogs were DRT, but runners were hard to put down. Distances seemed pretty far though to try to hit runners.

For first-round on a deer broadside or quartering away, I would expect fast kills due to velocity. It will wreck the vitals pretty bad based on what is being seen from recovered fragments. It’s performing as it was designed to do with that hollow cavity up front and the ELD tip initiating rapid expansion. Nothing but separated jackets and one core were recovered so far, so it comes apart.

90gr TNTs have been performing very well on hogs and deer over the years though from Grendel.

For deer and hogs, one of the bullets to beat is the Cavity Back 105gr for a premium option. For cup and core, 120gr NBT, 123gr A-MAX, 123gr SST, and 123gr ELD-M have probably killed the most deer from 6.5 Grendel based on the game hunting surveys we did. They all exhibit controlled expansion, usually with pass-throughs or retention on the far-side hide. Barnes 100gr TTSX and 120gr TSX have also been used a lot for the premium monoliths.

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Yeah, not even knowing what others are using, that 123 gr SST caught my eye, especially for deer. I thought the .510 G1 BC was a mistake at first since it is better than the 129 gr SST. What a great survey! is there a legend for the bullet abbreviations? I don't recognize some of them. Looks like the 123 gr A-MAX may having taken the silver medal.
 
129gr SST BC is higher at .495 G1 per Bryan Litz analysis.

123gr SST BC is .462 G1. A-MAX was .468 when Litz did his studies on them. You can’t look at the 123gr SST and 129gr SST and conclude that the 123gr has a more streamlined BC:

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When you actually shoot them using either the published or Litz BCs within hunting distances, you will not see any trajectory changes. I use .468 G1/.232 for ELD-M as well and get 1st-round hits at distance with it. I tested this years ago with 123gr A-MAX to 1000yds and the Litz data worked perfectly on the steel at 1000yds. I also used the .510 G1 data the first time I shot out to 1200yds with my 16” Grendel, and was just off the left edge of the TGT. I out-shot a bunch of dudes with 30-338s, 300 WM, and .308s because I don’t think they were using any well-informed trajectory holds or proper optics for that work.
 
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129gr SST BC is higher at .495 G1 per Bryan Litz analysis.

123gr SST BC is .462 G1. A-MAX was .468 when Litz did his studies on them. You can’t look at the 123gr SST and 129gr SST and conclude that the 123gr has a more streamlined BC:

20171126_182917_zpsmsjpqovx.jpg


20170908_102013_zpstfxikpcr.jpg

When you actually shoot them using either the published or Litz BCs within hunting distances, you will not see any trajectory changes. I use .468 G1/.232 for ELD-M as well and get 1st-round hits at distance with it. I tested this years ago with 123gr A-MAX to 1000yds and the Litz data worked perfectly on the steel at 1000yds. I also used the .510 G1 data the first time I shot out to 1200yds with my 16” Grendel, and was just off the left edge of the TGT. I out-shot a bunch of dudes with 30-338s, 300 WM, and .308s because I don’t think they were using any well-informed trajectory holds or proper optics for that work.

Okay the .51 BC being wrong would certainly make more sense to me. Shooting out to 1200 yds with a 16" barrel is nuts! I've been meaning to buy one or two of Litz's books.
 
Okay the .51 BC being wrong would certainly make more sense to me. Shooting out to 1200 yds with a 16" barrel is nuts! I've been meaning to buy one or two of Litz's books.
At the time, I had written-off Grendel as maybe a 600-800yd cartridge at-best, 600yds for my 16” barrel for certain. Then these guys came out to one of my shooting spots and were trying to hit a TGT at 1200yds, kicking up dust at the base of the hill at least 100 yards from where they intended to be.

I plugged in my dope into my program, and it said something like 14.4 mils if I recall. My elevation turret maxed out at 12 mils, so I used reticle hold in addition to maxing out. 1st-round almost connected, couldn’t believe it. I emptied the mag on-TGT using my observed impact point as my new aiming point.

I was mainly shooting .260 Rem for LR back then, but really started to look at what the Grendel could do in a new light.

Sierra BCs are under-stated as well for the 107gr SMK and 123gr SMK. 123gr SMK is a great bullet.

The 123gr to beat for BC though is the Fort Scott 123gr TUI. I have a box of factory ammo from them I need to shoot at distance. The shape is more like a pointed 140gr with long boat tail.
 
I ditched the SST years ago when it came apart on two occasions, spattered lead all throughout elk front quarters and they had to be pitched. That said, that was the 180 SST out of an 06 at sub 300 yards. Maybe the Grendel is slow enough that the bullet would hold together better.
Moderate velocities with Grendel have that happy medium performance where the close range shots don’t totally destroy meat, and you still have expansion out to 400yds. It’s more like a 6.5x54 Mannlicher-Shönauer but with lighter average weight bullets.
 
I'm waiting on the Sierra 120 TGK to become available again. I saw them listed late last year (?) and went as far to add them to my cart on Sierra's website. I waited and thought on it and they were gone. They are a long SOB though.

I'm playing with the Sierra tipped BK now with 8208 and it isn't too bad. Not a suitable bullet for deer critters I understand but it kills steel DRT (until repaint). I've only shot them out of a brand new 16" Ultra Match barrel and not out of my 20" Proof so velocities aren't up there (obviously). I am still used to at least a 20"-24" barrel and seeing the velocities of a 16" is still a new experience.
 
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I have shot the factory 100gr ELD-VT ammo through the 17.6” Lilja barrel Grendel out to 1000yds, yes.

First shot was 700yds, easy connect on a large gong, went to 800yds, skipped 900yds and just went to the 1000yd gong to see where it was hitting. Adjusted elevation to impact the waterline so I could see how many mils for centered-up at 1k.

It was surprisingly-loud on-target. Winds were minimal at maybe 4-5mph if I recall. I was probably 12/12 at 1000yds with it on the gong. My 8yr-old boy was maybe 4/5, having never shot out to 1k before.

Someone did a pull-down of it and took all those measurements. ES was really tight from his measurements with the Garmin.

Seems like the intent of this load is for slaying yotes out to 500yds, since .223 Rem runs out of gas after 250-300yds generally. It also makes a fun target load for easy connecting on steel at distance.


What sort of velocity are you seeing from your 17.6" tube? Been contemplating trying this in my 18" monster bbl for thermal outings on porcine problems.
 
What sort of velocity are you seeing from your 17.6" tube? Been contemplating trying this in my 18" monster bbl for thermal outings on porcine problems.
123gr A-MAX hand load on 31.2gr CFE223

2507
2492
2477
2496
2477

2490fps avg 64˚ F

Factory 120gr Scenar-L from PF

2505
2504
2453
2518
2498

2511fps avg

Factory Hornady 123gr SST

2451
2449
2473
2456

2457 avg

107gr SMK on 29.4gr 8208XBR
2626fps

94gr GMX Custom (cut down from 120gr GMX), 33.9gr CFE223, 2.261-2.275” COL
2749
2751
2741
2700

129gr ABLR on 30.7gr CFE223
2397
2400
2410
2393
2425

90gr Federal TNT Box ammo
2882
2886
2875
2878
2883

2900
2922
2903
2893
2904

2893fps (15ft from muzzle)

120gr Federal OTM box ammo
2441
2494
2492
2506
2491

2484fps avg

123gr American Gunner Hornady 200rd box ammo
2441fps avg
 
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123gr A-MAX hand load on 31.2gr CFE223

2507
2492
2477
2496
2477

2490fps avg 64˚ F

Factory 120gr Scenar-L from PF

2505
2504
2453
2518
2498

2511fps avg

Factory Hornady 123gr SST

2451
2449
2473
2456

2457 avg

107gr SMK on 29.4gr 8208XBR
2626fps

94gr GMX Custom (cut down from 120gr GMX), 33.9gr CFE223, 2.261-2.275” COL
2749
2751
2741
2700

129gr ABLR on 30.7gr CFE223
2397
2400
2410
2393
2425

90gr Federal TNT Box ammo
2882
2886
2875
2878
2883

2900
2922
2903
2893
2904

2893fps (15ft from muzzle)

120gr Federal OTM box ammo
2441
2494
2492
2506
2491

2484fps avg

123gr American Gunner Hornady 200rd box ammo
2441fps avg


Oh my. I should have been more specific. I was asking about the Hornady 100gn eld-vt in particular
 
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Has anybody here had success with BLC2?

I know there are much better powders. I would have preferred 8208xbr, h4895, or even ARCOMP but this is what I have been able to find. Store also has some h335 but from my limited research, that's good for lighter weight stuff around 100 grains or less.
 
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Oh my. I should have been more specific. I was asking about the Hornady 100gn eld-vt in particular
I didn’t chrono it, so I used the box 2730fps from a 24”, plugged it into a Grendel internal ballistics engine, and got 2598fps for my 17.6”. ETA: Looking at the new 4DOF Doppler Radar Data for it, I plugged in my actual drop at 1000yds, the elevation/conditions, and it shows 2690fps mv, same as other people who have chrono’d it.

I used that and plugged it into my program, 1st-round connect at 700yds, dialed to 800yds, connect, went to 1000yds where we finished out water-lining it. Initial drop prediction for 1000yds was low and right on the target, so I adjusted up to centerline with the group, which ended up being 10.8 mils. It was pretty cold at about 20˚F if I remember correctly.

Truing it with Hornady’s program to 10.8 mils at 1000yds in the conditions I was in, it’s showing a mv of 2590fps from the 17.6” barrel. I just looked at 6mm ARC in that weight and this is basically duplicating or exceeding it. If you shot the 103gr ELD-X 6mm from ARC from an 18” at 2575fps, it has more drop and drift than what I’m seeing from the 100gr ELD-VT 6.5mm at 2590fps. You have to go to the 110gr A-TIP to get below the drift it seems. 108gr ELD-M didn’t do it when I ran it through the Doppler program.

Weird. So this 100gr ELD-VT is like 6mm ARC performance without needing to make the switch. I just double-checked that I entered in all the same variables for the conditions, and I’m using real-world drop and impact data that I recorded from the 17.6” Grendel shooting factory Hornady 100gr ELD-VT.
 
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Has anybody here had success with BLC2?

I know there are much better powders. I would have preferred 8208xbr, h4895, or even ARCOMP but this is what I have been able to find. Store also has some h335 but from my limited research, that's good for lighter weight stuff around 100 grains or less.
BL-C(2) is one of the main initial powders used for 6.5 Grendel load development by Alexander Arms, with lots of published data for it from AA, Hodgdon’s, and Hornady dating back over the better part of the last 20 years.

AA2520 and BL-C(2) were some of the go-to powders for 120-123gr, as was W748. I think CFE223 really does everything those powders were meant to do and more when it comes to velocity and metering well, and being easy to find.
 
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Any opinions on the Barnes Tac-tx 115 ?
I would think that the moderate velocities of the Grendel cartridge are not supportive of the performance of monolithic bullets (unless they are designed to open at lower speeds like the LRX), but I do not have personal experience with them to say for sure. Maybe others could speak to the success of Barnes bullets, Hornady's CX/GMX, or Nosler's E-Tips? I think it would be better to go with lead core expansion or fragmentation rounds and as big as possible. I think the 123 SSTs are very popular (although the published BC on that one is likely much too high).

According to the Barnes load data, the muzzle velocity of a 115 TAC-TX from a 24" barrel tops out at about 2600-2650 fps with CFE223. This is about the impact velocity you want from expanding copper monos to perform well. You could use this for hunting inside of 100 yds and still hit with at least 1500 ft-lbs with a 2400 fps impact velocity (the lower speed limit for good terminal performance with monos according to many).

The 100 TTSX might be a better option, because this can be sent out of the same barrel at nearly 2900 fps. This would maintain 2400+ fps past 150 yds and still carry 1300 ft-lbs on target. Keep in mind that monos often punch above their weight by 10 to 20 grains.
 
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Factory SST loads have been hot garbage from my grendel(s), but 123 ELD-Ms put meat in the freezer every time.
That's so disappointing to hear. I think 150 SSTs out of my 308 are the most impressive rounds I've ever hunted with, I've never had a deer take one step, they just roll over with their legs sticking up in the air. I built both a 6.5 & 6 ARC in hopes of using them to start my grandsons hunting. Not much choice in 6arc, but I've got several different 6.5 ammo flavors. And I just ordered some 100g solid copper to try as well.
 
Have to add my experience with 123SST’s as a component, not as factory ammo. With my preferred AR Comp load in an 18” JP barrel and a 3x or 5x prism-not the ideal tool for shooting groups-am consistently between .8-1.0” at 100yds. Lots of history on the bullet’s effectiveness on game, though it seems some guns shoot ‘em, and some don’t. This JP likes them.
 
2.32 OAL only applicable in a bolt gun with a chamber that will accept it, or as a single fed round in an AR, with same proviso regarding chamber. Sure, you can get more powder capacity, though you wouldn’t want to ignore distance to lands and resultant pressure, as well as how that pressure might affect your cases and primer pockets. There’s some trial/error in front of you, if you were to proceed with testing.
 
Not absolutely positive about real OAL max-they say 2.36”-but there are modified PRI magazines that will accept longer than std mag length of 2.28 that you can run in ASC/C Products mags. You still need to address distance to lands, regardless, especially with some chambers and tangent ogive bullets. My 20” Proof hits lands with 120 Scenar L’s at around 2.25, so I load at 2.225 with excellent accuracy.
 
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Not absolutely positive about real OAL max-they say 2.36”-but there are modified PRI magazines that will accept longer than std mag length of 2.28 that you can run in ASC/C Products mags. You still need to address distance to lands, regardless, especially with some chambers and tangent ogive bullets. My 20” Proof hits lands with 120 Scenar L’s at around 2.25, so I load at 2.225 with excellent accuracy.
Those look easy enough to reproduce, especially with milling machine access!
 
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Those look easy enough to reproduce, especially with milling machine access!
I got one PRI mad for my 24” 264 LBC. As I wanted to load my 130 RDF’s out as long as possible. A couple of things to note. First the magwell needed a little work. If you loaded the bullets to the internal face of the mag well , the bullet tips would catch on the barrel extension as it protruded 5 or 10 thousandths into the mag well. So filed that down and then polished the feed ramps to take off any burs. This allowed a max COAL of 2.372 approximately. So for feeding reliability 2.36.

Secondly the PRI mag is for a 6.8 SPC and has this follower. Unfortunately when you shoot las round the bolt catch would not engage. The problem was the follower was not ramped at rear. That is the follower was to high and the 6.5 bolt would hit the follower forcing it down just enough so pressure was taken off the bolt catch allowing the BCG to close. Easy enough pulled follower and filed a 30 degree chamfer about 1/4” long on the rear of the follower. Functions flawlessly now, and catches bolt on last round. The RDF’s hit lands a 2.375 in the 264 LBC chamber of this rifle .
 
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So I'm considering handloading for a 12in barrel.
The 2 bullets I'm thinking are the 120 Speer GD and the 129 ABLR. I'm kind of leaning toward the 120 GD since in my experience they're usually very accurate and easy to tune and good on game when they're sent at the proper speed. I don't plan to shoot any further than 200 yards so the slightly lower BC and higher expansion threshold (1600 vs 1300) doesn't really matter. They're also half the price of the ABLR.
I'm thinking N540 but almost no-one uses it for some reason (availability ?) even though it does look like a perfect match on QL (50K PSI, good velocity, 100% Case fill and 95% burn rate out of 12in)
XBR seems like the popular choice which might not be a bad idea since it burns a little bit faster so might be a bit better out of a short barrel.
Seems like 28.0 is the load for XBR with the 120 GD.
 
So I'm considering handloading for a 12in barrel.
The 2 bullets I'm thinking are the 120 Speer GD and the 129 ABLR. I'm kind of leaning toward the 120 GD since in my experience they're usually very accurate and easy to tune and good on game when they're sent at the proper speed. I don't plan to shoot any further than 200 yards so the slightly lower BC and higher expansion threshold (1600 vs 1300) doesn't really matter. They're also half the price of the ABLR.
I'm thinking N540 but almost no-one uses it for some reason (availability ?) even though it does look like a perfect match on QL (50K PSI, good velocity, 100% Case fill and 95% burn rate out of 12in)
XBR seems like the popular choice which might not be a bad idea since it burns a little bit faster so might be a bit better out of a short barrel.
Seems like 28.0 is the load for XBR with the 120 GD.

I don't there's any 129 ABLRs anywhere, much less gold dots. Are you sure you can get them? There's a lot of scam sites with rainbow unicorn powders, bullets, etc.
 
I’ve found a good load for my 14.5 barrel.
123gr hornady SST
29.5gr Ram shot TAC
COAL 2.255”
This is a pretty hot load according to GRT, but I don’t really see any signs of pressure on the brass. I got an average of 2470FPS and SD of 8, ES was 30. Shoots really tight groups through a Thermal.
 
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I’ve found a good load for my 14.5 barrel.
123gr hornady SST
29.5gr Ram shot TAC
COAL 2.255”
This is a pretty hot load according to GRT, but I don’t really see any signs of pressure on the brass. I got an average of 2470FPS and SD of 8, ES was 30. Shoots really tight groups through a Thermal.
One thing I’ve learned about the Grendel as far as reloading, SAMMI pressure of 52,000 psi is based upon the restriction of the GAS Bolt assembly. You can load higher to 62,000 or so but you are exceeding the design specs for mill spec bolts. Which is initially what happened with hand loader as bolts had cracks and failures. Can you exceed 52,000 ? Yes with very little sign of any pressure or swipes in particular if your gas and buffer system are balanced out pretty wells. The sign you at 65,000 psi is flattened primers, pierced primers and deep swipes.

So if you are going to work loads in there, I suggest a Sparks Extreme Bolt made with S7 steel. And stop when primers become flat. Just my 2 cents. My loads are in the low 69’s and standard bolts will fail.
 
I’ve found a good load for my 14.5 barrel.
123gr hornady SST
29.5gr Ram shot TAC
COAL 2.255”
This is a pretty hot load according to GRT, but I don’t really see any signs of pressure on the brass. I got an average of 2470FPS and SD of 8, ES was 30. Shoots really tight groups through a Thermal.
Barell length?

**edit**

Nvm, i just read it...
 
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Well I have a superlative gas block and JP silent captured system, so I’ve done some tuning to the rifle. That’s good info to know on the bolts. I’ve been running a 65outfitters(now called Rexus) bolt and carrier and it seems fine but I’ve been needing another built for a 20” build so I’ll check those out.
Makes me feel better about it knowing that I’m really not that high of pressure.
Can I ask you what would be considered “good” as far as SD and ES on a gas gun?

The barrel is a 65outfitters(Rexus) 14.5” barrel. I do night hunting with a Iray Alpha thermal and I it’s my only thermal right now so I need this gun to be an all around game killer. The 123s are light for those big nasty hogs, but it will work. But they’re was too nasty on small bobcats and coyotes. Not fur friendly at all. Eventually I’m gonna get another thermal and build a 22 caliber bolt gun to dedicate to predators.
 
Well I have a superlative gas block and JP silent captured system, so I’ve done some tuning to the rifle. That’s good info to know on the bolts. I’ve been running a 65outfitters(now called Rexus) bolt and carrier and it seems fine but I’ve been needing another built for a 20” build so I’ll check those out.
Makes me feel better about it knowing that I’m really not that high of pressure.
Can I ask you what would be considered “good” as far as SD and ES on a gas gun?

The barrel is a 65outfitters(Rexus) 14.5” barrel. I do night hunting with a Iray Alpha thermal and I it’s my only thermal right now so I need this gun to be an all around game killer. The 123s are light for those big nasty hogs, but it will work. But they’re was too nasty on small bobcats and coyotes. Not fur friendly at all. Eventually I’m gonna get another thermal and build a 22 caliber bolt gun to dedicate to predators.
for SD and ES AR comp has been known to be very small with Sd’s between 4 and 9 and ES in 8-12 fps range. I did get some Power Pro Varmint and some H335 but I have not run loads on them so I can’t say at this point. I, have loaded some 123,s. 129’s and 130’s but these are ladders, so no accuracy vs speed loads. I’ll get to shooting some of these next week.

AR Comp has been very good to me. The H335 is for some 100 gr ELD M. I, m loading these anticipating the 100 gr ELD VT hitting the shelves. At 2,850 to 2,900 out of a 24” barrel these would pretty sweet as varmint and coyote medicine.
 
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Those look easy enough to reproduce, especially with milling machine access!
I have modified 3 of the 6.8 PRI mags (2-10's and 1-15) and 1 223. I did it with a dremel and a cutoff wheel, a step drill to get the radius at the bottom, some time with a file, and some cratex wheels. A milling machine would be child's play (and a blessing).

Depending on the lower and barrel extension, you can load real long. You'll be jamming lots of bullets using a Proof and not if running an Ultra Match....

I changed out the followers on the 10 round 6.8 mags and the bolt catch works. A little trimming was needed to get the blue followers to slide up and down smoothly. The modified blue followers work.......just as good as the original 6.8 followers. Some stuff ain't worth the effort (the followers that is).

A fabricator friend whacked out the front of an ASC 10 rounder and spot welded at the bottom of the cutout. After some quick file and polishing, they work just as well as the $$$ PRI mags.
 
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I just when to the range yesterday and had my 6.8 PRI 10 round windowed magazine. It fed flawlessly. I had to file down the upper M4 ramps about .005” to make them flush with the mag well. The max possible COAL is about 2.37. . I did feed some 140 RDF’s yesterday at 2.31” The only mod I did to magazine was to file the rear portion of the follower off at a 30 deg angle to allow it to engage the bolt catch.
 
As a side note I did get the Sharps extreme performance bolt and ran it in my rifle. I was not happy. I was running ladders for velocity only for my 100gr ELD M’s and some 107 Smk’s. On the lowest start load the first couple of rounds stove piped. I went to single feed them. Alternatively the rifle would go from not ejecting from the gun well, to just barely flopping out, to 2:00 o’clock ejection pattern to not even ejecting the round with it still being squarely in the bolt. I was single feeding do the bcc was held by the bolt catch.

I pulled that bolt and put back the previous Odin works bolt. The following day this is when I did some other bullet straight ladder test for velocity and pressure signs. That bolt functioned flawlessly.

I contacted Sharps and told customer service of my problem and suggested that I return the bolt and some accompanying brass so they could figure out what was going on and correct them. Their response was looking at pick I sent you were running rounds well over pressure which caused the brass flecks on the case head and ultimately functional failure of the bolt after 30 rounds.

So I decided I would pull the bolt apart. The extractor and ejector pin and figure out the problem. Here is a quick summary of my findings.

The extractor had a fairly large o-ring on it which made any movement of the extractor when the round was going into battery offer a tremendous amount of resistance. Examining my brass from that firing cycle the faces of the case head were pretty stable very little if any case swiping but the rims of the case heads had small cuts in the from the claw of the extractor.

I measured all my spent cases for evidence of drastic over pressuring of the loads. All measurements, neck, base, case web, were within .001 tolerances. While primers ( cci 450’s) were a little flattened but still with round edges, there was no cratering of the primers. So this was not causational to bolt function.

So my take is that the extractor exhibited so much resistance to opening during the final rotational movement into battery that the sharp edge of the extractor was cutting the edges of the case rim as it pushed by. So I will either find a slightly smaller o-ring or shave of a little of the existing to lessen the resistance of the extractor as the case goes into battery.

As far as the ejection pin. I soaked the pin head area with WD40 and then successfully pushed down on the ejector until it loosened enough and finally extended all the way. There actually were a few brass shards that had made their way down in between the pin and the wall of the hole which ultimately locked it in a flush condition.

I cleaned out the hole with a small rat tail file very lightly moving it back and forth. Again I picked up a very small shard of brass. really small pieces, barely visible to my eye but pick up in light. I then wiped down the pin inspected it and placed it in the hole. It was still binding up. So I broke out my Dremel and put a polishing wheel on it. Put some Flick on it it and went about polishing the pin.

I then placed the pin in the hole to check for clearance and function. Absolutely no snagging, it ran up and down with little or no resistance. I reassembled the bolt and I will see what I have or I can find to replace the , what I believe is over sized o-ring. If I can’t find one I will shave some the existing o-ring off, and then I will put it back in.

I still think the Sharps extreme bolt is a good deal and I suspect going forward it will function flawlessly. But when you pay $131 for a bolt you expect it to function 100% out of the box.

I did write a review to the customer service rep of my findings in a little more lengthy report, hoping they will apply it to their QC and production operations. I did let them know that I was not happy with their dismissal of me as a customer. Assuming I was just some buffoon.
 
As a side note I did get the Sharps extreme performance bolt the other day and ran it in my rifle. I was not happy. I was running ladders for velocity only for my 100gr ELD M’s and some 107 Smk’s. On the lowest start load the first couple of rounds stove piped. I went to single feed them. Alternatively the rifle would go from not ejecting from the gun well, to just barely flopping out, to 2:00 o’clock ejection pattern to not even ejecting the round with it still being squarely in the bolt. I was single feeding do the bcc was held by the bolt catch.



I pulled that bolt and put back the previous Odin works bolt. The following day this is when I did some other bullet straight ladder test for velocity and pressure signs. That bolt functioned flawlessly.



I contacted Sharps and told customer service of my problem and suggested that I return the bolt and some accompanying brass so they could figure out what was going on and correct them. Their response was looking at pick I sent you were running rounds well over pressure which caused the brass flecks on the case head and ultimately functional failure of the bolt after 30 rounds.



So I decided I would pull the bolt apart. The extractor and ejector pin and figure out the problem. Here is a quick summary of my findings.



The extractor had a fairly large o-ring on it which made any movement of the extractor when the round was going into battery offer a tremendous amount of resistance. Examining my brass from that firing cycle the faces of the case head were pretty stable very little if any case swiping but the rims of the case heads had small cuts in the from the claw of the extractor.



I measured all my spent cases for evidence of drastic over pressuring of the loads. All measurements, neck, base, case web, were within .001 tolerances. While primers ( cci 450’s) were a little flattened but still with round edges, there was no cratering of the primers. So this was not causational to bolt function.



So my take is that the extractor exhibited so much resistance to opening during the final rotational movement into battery that the sharp edge of the extractor was cutting the edges of the case rim as it pushed by. So I will either find a slightly smaller o-ring or shave of a little of the existing to lessen the resistance of the extractor as the case goes into battery.



As far as the ejection pin. I soaked the pin head area with WD40 and then successfully pushed down on the ejector until it loosened enough and finally extended all the way. There actually were a few brass shards that had made their way down in between the pin and the wall of the hole which ultimately locked it in a flush condition.



I cleaned out the hole with a small rat tail file very lightly moving it back and forth. Again I picked up a very small shard of brass. really small pieces, barely visible to my eye but pick up in light. I then wiped down the pin inspected it and placed it in the hole. It was still binding up. So I broke out my Dremel and put a polishing wheel on it. Put some Flick on it it and went about polishing the pin.



I then placed the pin in the hole to check for clearance and function. Absolutely no snagging, it ran up and down with little or no resistance. I reassembled the bolt and I will see what I have or I can find to replace the , what I believe is over sized o-ring. If I can’t find one I will shave some the existing o-ring off, and then I will put it back in.



I still think the Sharps extreme bolt is a good deal and I suspect going forward it will function flawlessly. But when you pay $131 for a bolt you expect it to function 100% out of the box.



I did write a review to the customer service rep of my findings in a little more lengthy report, hoping they will apply it to their QC and production operations. I did let them know that I was not happy with their dismissal of me as a customer. Assuming I was just some buffoon.
 
S7 steel is not ideal for tiny parts under high stresses. If you look at the Barrett 82 or M107 bolts, which are made with S7, they are huge triangles that don’t have tiny lugs.

iu


9310 has been working great for Grendel bolts, especially Aerospace grade put through certain processes like Vacuum Arc Remelt. I would not mess around with the unknowns, and even with 5.56, there were a lot of lug failures with S7 as soon as they were released.

For extractors, all you need is a quality extractor spring and elastomer insert to keep it from folding over. I take out O-rings any time I see them because they add unnecessary extractor tension and make going into battery more difficult, while placing stress on the extractor lip during the chambering process.

I also de-horn the corners of extractors if they have sharp edges. The M4 TDP calls for machine-relief cut surfaces that remove the extractor sharp lips as they cause excess brass shavings in the bolt face area, which are known to not help with reliability.

I also check ejector function to make sure there isn’t any binding. You might want to Oxy-blue it after polishing to make sure it doesn’t corrode on the surface. This is what I do to any parts on the bolt that get tuned-up or polished.
 
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S7 steel is not ideal for tiny parts under high stresses. If you look at the Barrett 82 or M107 bolts, which are made with S7, they are huge triangles that don’t have tiny lugs.

iu


9310 has been working great for Grendel bolts, especially Aerospace grade put through certain processes like Vacuum Arc Remelt. I would not mess around with the unknowns, and even with 5.56, there were a lot of lug failures with S7 as soon as they were released.

For extractors, all you need is a quality extractor spring and elastomer insert to keep it from folding over. I take out O-rings any time I see them because they add unnecessary extractor tension and make going into battery more difficult, while placing stress on the extractor lip during the chambering process.

I also de-horn the corners of extractors if they have sharp edges. The M4 TDP calls for machine-relief cut surfaces that remove the extractor sharp lips as they cause excess brass shavings in the bolt face area, which are known to not help with reliability.

I also check ejector function to make sure there isn’t any binding. You might want to Oxy-blue it after polishing to make sure it doesn’t corrode on the surface. This is what I do to any parts on the bolt that get tuned-up or polished.
Thanks for the input, the Sharps Bolt is here to stay. The extractor lips need to be honed smooth to remove the sharp end point. That coupled with the oversized o-ring is a recipe for disaster as far as creating brass shavings off the case rims.

When I polished the pin I did not remove the DLC it was treated with. It merely made it very slick and removed uneven surface deviations. So I think the pin is good. I will watch it though.

In the end though what amazes me is mainstream company has this as a vaunted product, which will in it’s current form only serve to piss off a lot off people.
 
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