To the folks running the RT90C with Anvil 30 and @midwestoffroad adapter plate, is "head only" the one to order?
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Imported carbon fiber tripod (RT90C)
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Sorry I wasn't super clear-
On here, the anvil 30 can be ordered with multiple adapters or "head only".
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soar.reallyrightstuff.com
On here, the anvil 30 can be ordered with multiple adapters or "head only".
Anvil-30 Shooting Ball Head
OverviewThe first of its kind Really Right Stuff SOAR Anvil-30 Ball head is purpose-built for heavy equipment support from the ground up. We added our patent-pending dual clamp system able to clamp both the RRS Dovetail standard and Picatinny rails in the same unit. We also removed extra...
soar.reallyrightstuff.com
Oh yes, you’re correct. The Midwest plate accepts it like that.Sorry I wasn't super clear-
On here, the anvil 30 can be ordered with multiple adapters or "head only".
Anvil-30 Shooting Ball Head
OverviewThe first of its kind Really Right Stuff SOAR Anvil-30 Ball head is purpose-built for heavy equipment support from the ground up. We added our patent-pending dual clamp system able to clamp both the RRS Dovetail standard and Picatinny rails in the same unit. We also removed extra...
Milehighshooting.com and thermalopticsplus.com are my 2 main go to places other than directWell now they're sold out.
I must have spurned you jokers to snatch them all up
All parts are inbound 
Anvil 30, RT90C, and midwestoffroad adapter.
Pumped about this setup.
Thanks folks.
Anvil 30, RT90C, and midwestoffroad adapter.
Pumped about this setup.
Thanks folks.
Just remember that there's a learning curve on the Anvil 30. But that's an excuse to mount your rifle and practice with it.
It's just getting comfortable with the tension throw lever. I use my thumb and thumb pocket . It only requires small movements to manipulate a rifle. But a pair of Binos or spotter can require more finesse
All parts are inbound
Anvil 30, RT90C, and midwestoffroad adapter.
Pumped about this setup.
Thanks folks.
I've got the stinking adapter...and everytime I get the money skimmed off the top and set aside to buy the RT90C and Anvil...my lovely wife swoops in and "poof" it's gone lmao...I think I need to be a little more devious in my skimming techniques
That leads me to a question I've been wanting to ask...I have no experience or knowledge base with the different types of heads available...but have wondered...do they make one where the pan and tilt function is controlled by something like knobs that you can turn and get smooth micro adjustments once an initial line of sight is achieved ?
That would be the majority of ball heads. There will be 3 knobs . A knob for tension and one for a micro adjust And a knob for panning
Ahh sweet...ok...that makes sense....I knew there had to be stuff like that...so pretty much any RRS head that has the 3 knobs is what I'm interested in for the spotter...any specific recommendation on which one of theirs is the the best ?....or does it really come down to application ?
I guess I would be looking for an additional head that would work with the RT90C...and your adapter if needed...that would give me that function for a spotter when not using the Anvil 30 with a rifle.
Would be a great for spotter or rifle
If just for a spotter a 40mm ball would suffice
If you wanted a cheaper route the Desmond DLow55 is less than half the BH55
you might want a fluid head or a geared head if you want fine aiming control at high magnifications.
there is no micro-adjust for aiming on ball heads, just for tension.
i would suggest getting a rail to clamp onto your anvil to mount spotters rather than changing the head on your tripod all the time.
Would be a great for spotter or rifle
If just for a spotter a 40mm ball would suffice
If you wanted a cheaper route the Desmond DLow55 is less than half the BH55
Perfect...that will get me going so I know I'm at least looking at the right stuff...tell ya what...the knowledge and experience of some Hide members continue to impress
....Thanks !!
you might want a fluid head or a geared head if you want fine aiming control at high magnifications.
there is no micro-adjust for aiming on ball heads, just for tension.
i would suggest getting a rail to clamp onto your anvil to mount spotters rather than changing the head on your tripod all the time.
Now that looks sweet !!
No problem. We have lots of guys running the dlow at local matches. It's a great piece of gear if budget won't allow for RRSPerfect...that will get me going so I know I'm at least looking at the right stuff...tell ya what...the knowledge and experience of some Hide members continue to impress
you might want a fluid head or a geared head if you want fine aiming control at high magnifications.
i would suggest getting a rail to clamp onto your anvil to mount spotters rather than changing the head on your tripod all the time.
So I'm studying your picture....your first statement is exactly what I'm looking for...and that's what I see under your rangefinder is a head for that ?
The rail idea to use on the Anvil 30 is perfect...question though...your spotter doesn't have the fine adjustment ability ?...or am I missing something...maybe just not needed ?
there is no micro-adjust for aiming on ball heads, just for tension.
So I don't mean to be stupid...and I'm fully aware I'm ignorant lol...but...the Anvil 30 is really popular for using with a rifle...thinking about it...wouldn't someone using that setup shooting long distance at targets also want the ability for fine adjustments to aim perfectly ?...what am I not understanding ?...maybe the fluid/geared heads don't do well with recoil ?
Ok...yeah I get that...basically using the fine adjustment head to co-witness with the spotter...so if someone wanted the ability to fine adjust the spotter first before co-witnessing...they would just use a simular head underneath it as well right ?
Fluid heads are more about damping vibration, they are kinda "floaty" when putting pressure on them. A geared head does allow precise adjustment but it is slow, you'd never get the rifle on target fast enough.
To answer you question directly above, you already have the spotter on target with the Anvil, there is no need for a second adjustment method under it. The angle between it and the LRF is whats changing as distance changes hence the need to fine adjust ONE of them.
To answer you question directly above, you already have the spotter on target with the Anvil, there is no need for a second adjustment method under it. The angle between it and the LRF is whats changing as distance changes hence the need to fine adjust ONE of them.
that spotter is 12-40x with a decent field of view, so for me fine aiming isn't a requirement in most cases.
if using the mil reticle to spot corrections, i can throw it on the geared head, but in the situation there is plenty of time to use the ball head.
i put the rangefinder on the "geared head*" so i can scan back and forth, up and down to make sure i am not accidentally hitting something else.
* real geared heads may have 3-axis adjustments, not 2. what i am using only has 2.
The first statement I get...that's my ignorance/lack of experience of different head types and their functions/limitations
The second one is what I was getting at kinda...so the Anvil 30 ball head "does" allow...with practice I guess...to get close enough under high magnification to not really need the fine adjustment...like @theLBC said "not a requirement in most cases" ?
you are overthinking it a little maybe.
for shooting, you can have medium tension in the head and fine control because you have that long lever of a rifle against the tension of the head.
when people say "get used to the anvil", that means (to me) finding the tension sweet spot for you that gives you a combination of stability (not flopping around) and enough freedom to adjust your aim.
when you put a small spotting scope on the anvil, you don't have that big lever, so you have to loosen tension on the ball head and the "sweet spot" for aiming and control is smaller and harder to find (why traditional ball heads with knobs are a little easier, and they pan).
fluids head go up, down, left or right. easier to move on one axis at a time to aim. good for video, not so much for shooting.
geared heads are not made for absorbing recoil, but if you bought one for a huge telescope it might not break apart.
Makes total sense...thanks...just needed someone with experience to explain things...an example was...I never knew with the Anvil 30 how it's even used...as far as putting tension on it with something mounted then still moving it to get perfect...my mind was just seeing it moving freely/loosely...then being locked down fully.
*note that i rarely use the geared head. i need it for specific situations, but most of the time i can just hold the range finder.
it did help me know where the beam is in relation to the reticle on the range finder and how big the beam is at distance.
it did help me know where the beam is in relation to the reticle on the range finder and how big the beam is at distance.
Already posted this elsewhere on the forum but this is a good video of the tripod in use with a magnum rifle.
Shooting an AXMC with a 300 PRC barrel on it, full size IPSC at 1280.
Been using this tripod with the Anvil 30 for a year and a half now. Not as stable as an RRS but you can get pretty darn close with a sling.
Shooting an AXMC with a 300 PRC barrel on it, full size IPSC at 1280.
Been using this tripod with the Anvil 30 for a year and a half now. Not as stable as an RRS but you can get pretty darn close with a sling.
gotcha. start simple and don't buy a bunch of crap until you need it.
for me, i like a decent amount of tension in the head so it takes some effort to change the poa.
Yup...I get it...I imagine once holding the rangefinder it only takes a few seconds to get the reading you're looking for.
I just need to get the Anvil 30 and play with it myself to have the awareness of it all and how it functions with different things attached.
So I got to ask...you said "using this tripod"...I can't tell by watching the video because I don't have my glasses on but...is that an RT90C ?...if it is...you said "not as stable as an RSS"...why is that exactly...I just figured the RSS tripod would be of higher quality...what makes it more stable ?
Yes, that's an RT90C.
RRS legs I'm guessing are either made of a stiffer carbon, or are just constructed stiffer than import tripods I've messed with. The RT90C's legs as a result have more flex than an RRS, especially when deployed to a standing height. That can be remedied to an extent by using a sling like I did in the video, but it won't completely eliminate the wobble induced by the legs flexing back/forth and side/side.
If an RRS was a 10/10 for stability, I'd call the Innorel an 8.
It's not the carbon fibre in the legs, its the joins. The tolerances in the RRS are tighter than in the RT90C. That said, for my uses the RT90C is plenty stable, and in fact the half ball leveller that comes with them is workable with the leofoto plate/clamp that I use, even with my heavy DT SRS. I'll absolutely upgrade to an Anvil when funds are available however.
Ive got the RT90C and a arca plate for my rifle headed my way.
I was thinking about getting the leofoto YB-75LC. but was wondering if anyone else has a better set up in the same price range? I found one for $135 but im willing to spend up to $200 if theres a better option.
the leveling base that comes with it is worth upgrading... right? kotaboy32 just slapped a rrs clamp on his and it makes me wonder..
I was thinking about getting the leofoto YB-75LC. but was wondering if anyone else has a better set up in the same price range? I found one for $135 but im willing to spend up to $200 if theres a better option.
the leveling base that comes with it is worth upgrading... right? kotaboy32 just slapped a rrs clamp on his and it makes me wonder..
It works well. I have a qd China made throw lever on my leveling base. I prefer it fir my spotter at matches ... its less confusing for others if they make adjustments. Vs having my binos or spotter floppi g over
I have tried looking through a fair amount of these posts and couldn’t find anything. But wondering if the 90 is that much more stable than the 80? Trying to decide which one to try and I think I am going to put an anvil 30 head on it. Would like to use for hunting and prs.
The 90 is going to be much more stable. It's thicker legs will help achieve that.
The 80 will only allow you to mount the Anvil to the factory mount. For a more rigid setup one if my plates on the 90 is a better setup
The 80 will only allow you to mount the Anvil to the factory mount. For a more rigid setup one if my plates on the 90 is a better setup
@smokinbobf4 I've got the rt80c if you're sitting it's pretty stable but once I go to kneeling or standing it gets a little wobbly. Just didn't have the funds for the 90 at the time
That is exactly what I needed to hear. I would like something stable up higher and I am fairly tall so I might want to go with the 90. Thanks!
Yeah it feel stable at my house on hardwood floors then gets wobbly in grass. Gonna try it with a bag instead of clamping in
What is the thing on the side of your rifle?
Have you gotten a plate for the 80 series to measure yet? I've been using the leveling base on mine and not very happy. Feels steady in the house then I get to the range and not so much
Looks like a laser indicator and a Kestrel e-dope card
E-Dope Card electronic screen to display Kestrel Ballistics target values
Sunlight readable, e-Ink display that uploads the Kestrel shooting solutions from your LiNK ballistics app, then attaches to a gun mounted data board allowing shooters to engage multiple targets faster.
kestrelballistics.com
I've got one been using the leveling base if you want pm me and I can send you the plate.
So has anyone shot one of these side by side with a rrs 34. I'm debating which way to upgrade I only get to the range maybe once every other month can't really justify the coin for rrs with no more than it will be used unless it's really heaps better than the 90
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