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New 6mm Advanced Rifle Cartridge
- Thread starter Gtscotty
- Start date
Better tuan a clam shell, but.
It’s Aluminum, the lug engagement is not confidence inspiring.
Replaced it with the Midwest for sml frame. Midwest from the start for LF.
The barrel extension type spuds without the upper receiver support will work fine under normal circumstances. It’s when the upper receiver is galled or seized on or overtightened barrel nut , the upper receiver will twist and probably destroy the upper… due to the upper receiver, twisting due to the circumstances above
That will be my next purchase
Too bad I don’t have a mill. I would make my large and small frame wheeler, steel action rods into complete barrel spuds.
Why not just buy the Geissele small and large from reaction rods that many of us have been using for god knows how many years? They are built to last forever. I have many 100s of builds on each of mine...
These can be had for even cheaper multiple times per year during sales. Black Friday being the next one most likely..
"The rod is cut from a solid bar of 4140 Chrome Moly steel, properly quenched/tempered and ground to an exact diameter that is smooth and straight so the rod will enter an upper receiver without wobble."
These can be had for even cheaper multiple times per year during sales. Black Friday being the next one most likely..
"The rod is cut from a solid bar of 4140 Chrome Moly steel, properly quenched/tempered and ground to an exact diameter that is smooth and straight so the rod will enter an upper receiver without wobble."
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Not possible. Bar holds the extension via the lug cutouts. The barrel nut grabs the upper and front of the extension. Nothing touches/torques the barrel.
ETA: Beyond that, a properly torqued extension has next to zero chance of tightening enough to affect headspace unless you are hell bent on destruction.
Ive never had this issue, ever. I have 2 XL650's....Something is off, you need to tear it down and diagnose it piece by piece until you find the cause.
These are as good as it gets for building AR uppers. I have hundreds of builds on mine
GEISSELE AUTOMATICS LLC AR-15/M16 REACTION ROD | Brownells
Check out the GEISSELE AUTOMATICS LLC available Online at Brownells Today and many more Gun Barrel Tools products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.www.brownells.com
I actually prefer the G reaction rod over the Midwest Industries, I have both, for AR-15 and AR-10. I like the ability to reclock the receiver being worked on to various angles for better access to whatever the task is. It's just more convenient.
I've done many upper receivers, perhaps not hundreds, new builds, re-builds, and alterations.
no problems. maybe if I get an upper where the gorilla factory torqued it to 200 lbs ft, maybe then i'll bust out the Midwest reaction rod, but the G has served me well, never any of the issues that the paranoiacs crow about.
Agreed, being able to rotate and lock the upper at different angles during assembly and disassembly is so clutch, especially when securing handguards, lining up gas locks, etc.
yeah, I’ll have to figure it out…
Right now I just found out after sending in a brand new turret press in for warranty repair….
The crayon munchers , that do the repairs , damaged the finish……jackasses must’ve thrown it in a regular vice which caused deep bite marks from the jagged jaws right into the frame of the large metal reloading press!!!
Looked closely and they also did it to another piece of the vice in a separate area.
so the dip shit couldn’t fuck it up once they fucked it up twice.
how dumb shit can you get?
At this point, it’s a blemished press.
should have blemish price
Like playing cards with my sister‘s kids
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Back on track
what seems to be the best magazines for the six ARC?
I picked some up that were the metal magazines and it looks like they compressed a normal size spring. It would fit in a standard 30 round magazine, into a 5 shot 6arc mag.
I cut the spring down and I have a very soft easy feeding magazine , not only does not mark the brass up. It feels about the same spring in a AW 308 magazine
Not enough pressure to trigger the last round bolt hold back though …not going to combat so don’t care
The plastic magazine I picked up even has a case specific top/feed lips.
Only issue with plastic magazines as you all know, it cuts down on magazine length, especially if you’ve got a plastic tipped bullet
what seems to be the best magazines for the six ARC?
I picked some up that were the metal magazines and it looks like they compressed a normal size spring. It would fit in a standard 30 round magazine, into a 5 shot 6arc mag.
I cut the spring down and I have a very soft easy feeding magazine , not only does not mark the brass up. It feels about the same spring in a AW 308 magazine
Not enough pressure to trigger the last round bolt hold back though …not going to combat so don’t care
The plastic magazine I picked up even has a case specific top/feed lips.
Only issue with plastic magazines as you all know, it cuts down on magazine length, especially if you’ve got a plastic tipped bullet
i've been able to deburr and polish the stamped edge of the metal magazine feed lips, so that they do not gouge out or cut grooves into the brass as the bolt pushes it forward out of the mag. It's an OCD thing, to look at the shot brass, and there's no scratches on the side. I use small polishing stone hand files, 1/4" half-round seems to work best, followed by fine grit sandpaper, and maybe dremel felt cone and polishing compound.
the manufacturing stamping process of metal mags leaves a very sharp, rough edge at the mag feed lips. if you have the time, a little investment there will yields some rewards.
I also have to deburr and polish the sharp edges of the barrel extension feed ramp, so that no scratches are incurred as the cartridge is feed up the ramp into the chamber, and also the edges of the barrel extension locking lugs at the 3 o'clock position, so that there's no scratches imparted on extraction. I also polish the top-side of the extractor (helps feeding) and deburr the corners (cuts down on vampire marks). be sure to not change any extractor angles that are needed for reliably grabbing the brass, though, for successful extraction.
you can also polish the top of the ejector.
like I said, it doesn't improve the functioning of an already functional rifle, but it's just an OCD thing of personal craftsmanship, fine tuning.
there's a detailed guide to this on The Other Site, "Hellbenders guide" something or other. certainly not invented by me.
bottom line: if the edge of the mag feed lip is causing the scratch, focus your attention there, not on the mag spring, JMHO.
But each of us have our own way of looking at things, your perspective is certainly unique. "to each, their own." 'murica!
Found out the plastic mag I had..
Plastic mag= amend2 Grendel
I do all the feed lip sanding and polishing
On the magazines
Barrel lugs and feed ramps are deburred and polished (specially the r-side so I don’t get the dredded snake bite on the mouth of the case.
The magazines have such over powered springs for life/death situations..
This places lots of pressure on the brass a causes scrapes ect all on its own, it could be related to the magazines I purchased as they are way oversprung for there intended purpose. .
The metal mags were not oddballs for the z6arc
Plastic mag= amend2 Grendel
I do all the feed lip sanding and polishing
On the magazines
Barrel lugs and feed ramps are deburred and polished (specially the r-side so I don’t get the dredded snake bite on the mouth of the case.
The magazines have such over powered springs for life/death situations..
This places lots of pressure on the brass a causes scrapes ect all on its own, it could be related to the magazines I purchased as they are way oversprung for there intended purpose. .
The metal mags were not oddballs for the z6arc
Here's the results from my loads testing seating depth. I had one round failed to fire probably due to no powder, and I had one instance of the gun doubling and it threw the shot up onto the next page. Not sure if it was trigger rest issue or if I managed to bump fire the round. But regardless the hornday 108's and berger 108 elite hunters just don't want to shot. The hornday 75gr vmax did ok but velocities felt kinda low. The barnes 105 match burners still did really well especially the 29.4gr load with an 1.5 es, and .6 std! I'm gonna play with the 105 match burners some more in a week. As for the horndays and bergers I don't know why they just won't shoot. Maybe it the crimp, maybe it's the dies but something isn't right. I also had a hell of time getting a consistent seating dept with them, plus they had rings on the projectiles from the seating stem. I'm just kind of at a loss on those.
Padom, I've been doing some reading on other dies and I'm curious why you didn't run the mighty armory sizing die for the 6mm arc?
Padom, I've been doing some reading on other dies and I'm curious why you didn't run the mighty armory sizing die for the 6mm arc?
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FWIW I use the Short Action Customs seater. Made two bushings that taper lock into the very bottom edge of the die. One is 6ARC & the other is .224V, works excellent.
The sleeve length just engages the spring loaded sliding sleeve in the SAC die by .010, so to remove it you just push a case in & slip your finger off the side SAC spring sleeve gives it a snap and it pops right out.
Edit: the 2 stems with this seater have seated everything I’ve ever tried without damage.
The sleeve length just engages the spring loaded sliding sleeve in the SAC die by .010, so to remove it you just push a case in & slip your finger off the side SAC spring sleeve gives it a snap and it pops right out.
Edit: the 2 stems with this seater have seated everything I’ve ever tried without damage.
It was out of stock at the time I bought my 6 ARC sizing die
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