Gunsmithing Remington 700 DBM opinions from guys that put them in.....and use them.

[pmclaine]

I hope they do this with mine…..

Gunsmithing - Wood taps...

Putting a "sorta" period correct rifle together for a gent. The stock work was something he handled the bulk of. We just got the metal back from parkerizing and while putting it together Kalyb noticed that the wood around the rear swivel was starting to lift along the grain due to the thread...

www.snipershide.com

Hey wait a minute…….

 

[LeftyJason]

I hope they do this with mine…..

Gunsmithing - Wood taps...

Putting a "sorta" period correct rifle together for a gent. The stock work was something he handled the bulk of. We just got the metal back from parkerizing and while putting it together Kalyb noticed that the wood around the rear swivel was starting to lift along the grain due to the thread...

www.snipershide.com

Hey wait a minute…….

Is it yours?

 

[pmclaine]

Shipped!

 

[pmclaine]

 

[Bigfatcock]

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I’m not trying to be rude, but your new rifle kind of looks like a box…

 

[powdahound76]

Hurry up @pmclaine

Im gettin blue balls waiting for pics!!!!



(Its kinda weird cause Im in @BJG1979 house in his living room drinking coffee, but whatever!)

 

[lariat]

Yeah we know you popped that box open. Cough up the pics!

 

[pmclaine]

Had to take the dog buddy for a walk…..

 

[Bigfatcock]

Had to take the dog buddy for a walk…..

View attachment 8006819

 

[pmclaine]

Just bubble wrap…

 

[pmclaine]

Now to bust all that metal away from the wood and start rubbing…..

I may buy some Brownells gold leaf and fill this in some…..

It’s a fatty….

 

[Jrb572]

Very nice.

 

[pmclaine]

Think I got some Remington plugs downstairs…..

I’ll have to relieve the bed slightly for the plug heads.

 

[Bigfatcock]

6.5 Creed?

 

[pmclaine]

Very nice.

 

[pmclaine]

6.5 Creed?

No homo……308.

 

[Bigfatcock]

No homo……308.

Lol. Very nice looking rifle. Looks like som oil staining on the buttstock. I’d do some acetone wipes before applying finish. I’m assuming linseed oil?

 

[pmclaine]

Kind of looks like a “Smelly”….

 

[pmclaine]

Lol. Very nice looking rifle. Looks like som oil staining on the buttstock. I’d do some acetone wipes before applying finish. I’m assuming linseed oil?

Good call on the acetone…thank you for suggesting it as I would have blown through that step in my eagerness.

Wonder how LRI attaches their Pachmayer pads. I’m used to seeing a cross cut at the screw placements so you can unscrew the pad for finishing/replacing. This one is sans cuts so they must epoxy it on.

I’ll just tape the crap out of it so it won’t get oiled.

Gonna use tung oil. Linseed will go too dark. I got wet sand paper from 400 to 2000 grit and some rotten stone.

This is the first I have held a Beaver M40 stock….I had it shipped direct to LRI.

It is a solid hunk of walnut…

 

[Bigfatcock]

Are you going to use pure tung oil?

 

[lariat]

Are you going to use pure tung oil?

I was just typing the same thing. Some I have used are good, some suck hind tit.

 

[Bigfatcock]

I was just typing the same thing. Some I have used are good, some suck hind tit.

I agree.

 

[pmclaine]

Are you going to use pure tung oil?

Real Milk Paint PTO with their citrus oil to cut the first few coats than very light coats of full strength to follow.

I’ll be missing some good strong sunlight to cure it.

 

[pmclaine]

I have had good luck with RMP PTO…

 

[pmclaine]

Had to fuck around and find out…..

Looks like the German baseball bat will work.

Scale is more suited to a 3-15 with a 52mm objective but might as well use the shit you have laying around.

 

[pmclaine]

One……

 

[pmclaine]

I like the cut oil……

Time for a second coat.

 

[Bigfatcock]

I use thinned finishes as initial soaking coats. I slather it on heavy, let it sit, and add more oil to any spots with more absorption. Then wipe off before it turns tacky. I tend to do that until I get even coats with no thirsty spots.

Once I hit that point is when I start to build the finish with the application of less cut or uncut finish. That seems to work best for me to build depth and bring out the chatoyance.

Pure tung should give a satin finish. That wood has some nice natural color in it. I’d be tempted to add a wash coat with some red and orange in it though, lol.

 

[pmclaine]

I use thinned finishes as initial soaking coats. I slather it on heavy, let it sit, and add more oil to any spots with more absorption. Then wipe off before it turns tacky. I tend to do that until I get even coats with no thirsty spots.

Once I hit that point is when I start to build the finish with the application of less cut or uncut finish. That seems to work best for me to build depth and bring out the chatoyance.

Pure tung should give a satin finish. That wood has some nice natural color in it. I’d be tempted to add a wash coat with some red and orange in it though, lol.

I thought of putting some minwax or similar stain that has a red tinge.

Tung oil seems too stable and never imparts color like linseed will over time.

This guy is a little darker than I want it to be but I am not near done yet.

Next coats will be put on with the 600 wet paper.

I have 1500 and 2000 after that.

I also have rotten stone.

Any idea what cut rotten stone would be considered?

Was thinking I would use the rotten stone with a microfiber cloth for the final full strength oil coats.

 

[pmclaine]

Not always is tung oil satin either.

That M40 photo on the shooting bench is all RMP PTO and it’s pretty glossy.

I had to work to have it gloss though, sometimes it will, sometimes it becomes a sticky mess.

Sunlight is my friend when I do this…..all I have now with this low horizon sun is my boiler room and heat.

 

[Bigfatcock]

It’s hard to tell the colors from the photos. This is a stock I would probably use Alkanet on, or one of my other coloring methods to strengthen the red and oranges. Maybe a splash of yellow.

The curl looks good, but again I’d have to see in person to decide if I needed a pre stain conditioner to prevent blotch.

Did you grain fill, or do you plan to?

 

[Bigfatcock]

Not always is tung oil satin either.

That M40 photo on the shooting bench is all RMP PTO and it’s pretty glossy.

I had to work to have it gloss though, sometimes it will, sometimes it becomes a sticky mess.

Sunlight is my friend when I do this…..all I have now with this low horizon sun is my boiler room and heat.

I’d always put a bit of finish on a piece of tape or something after each coat to tell if it cured or not. Once the finish on the tape was dry, the. I knew it was probably good in the stock and ready for next coat.

Honestly though, I’m just musing on a Sunday morning. No flies on that stock as it is now, and it’ll look really nice when done. You’ll have to beat the ho’s off with a stick!

As many stocks as you do, it might be time for you to build a curing box. Super easy to make, and you can control the temp, and humidity in any weather conditions. If you want UV for linseed finish, stick a lizard light in there.

 

[Jrb572]

I like the cut oil……

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Time for a second coat.

Wow. That is looking awesome.

 

[pmclaine]

It’s hard to tell the colors from the photos. This is a stock I would probably use Alkanet on, or one of my other coloring methods to strengthen the red and oranges. Maybe a splash of yellow.

The curl looks good, but again I’d have to see in person to decide if I needed a pre stain conditioner to prevent blotch.

Did you grain fill, or do you plan to?

Only grain fill will come from the light sand slurry being rubbed into the pores as I apply the oil.

First two coats were with 400 grit.

Glad I hit it with acetone at your suggestion took a lot of carbon black off likely left over from fitting. I wouldn’t want that in my oil mix.

 

[pmclaine]

I’d always put a bit of finish on a piece of tape or something after each coat to tell if it cured or not. Once the finish on the tape was dry, the. I knew it was probably good in the stock and ready for next coat.

Honestly though, I’m just musing on a Sunday morning. No flies on that stock as it is now, and it’ll look really nice when done. You’ll have to beat the ho’s off with a stick!

As many stocks as you do, it might be time for you to build a curing box. Super easy to make, and you can control the temp, and humidity in any weather conditions. If you want UV for linseed finish, stick a lizard light in there.

This will likely be the last stock I do.

After this it’s maintenance only….a dime sized drop of oil rubbed between the hands than hit on a finished stock and wiped off.

 

[pmclaine]

Who has a good method to fill the engraving on my flush mag?

Unsure if I want silver or gold…gold seeming a little too “Hood” but Silver more fitting for commissioned grades than enlisted.

Checked out the Forster/Brownells products but they may be a disaster trying to clean from the Parkerize finish - filling the pores of the park creating a tell tale haze of filth.

 

[lariat]

Who has a good method to fill the engraving on my flush mag?

Unsure if I want silver or gold…gold seeming a little too “Hood” but Silver more fitting for commissioned grades than enlisted.

Checked out the Forster/Brownells products but they may be a disaster trying to clean from the Parkerize finish - filling the pores of the park creating a tell tale haze of filth.

You might be able to use fine point paint pens. I think you are correct though that the paint will be difficult to remove once it gets into the rough parkerizing. Might also be able to use paint of choice with a very fine brush. Either way will require a steady hand.

 

[pmclaine]

You might be able to use fine point paint pens. I think you are correct though that the paint will be difficult to remove once it gets into the rough parkerizing. Might also be able to use paint of choice with a very fine brush. Either way will require a steady hand.

My buddy Michael J Fox will give me a hand........

 

[Jrb572]

I used finger nail polish and let it dry then wiped over it with a stiff cloth and acetone to redo the numbers on my Unertl. I do not know if that will help.

 

[pmclaine]

I used finger nail polish and let it dry then wiped over it with a stiff cloth and acetone to redo the numbers on my Unertl. I do not know if that will help.

On a nice smooth blue that is the correct route.

I'm afraid the rough park will "grab" the fill media and become a mess.

Might have to let the flush mag ride a bag and polish the parkerizing for a while before filling it in.

 

[camocorvette]

That rifle looks gorgeous Glad to see you finally got it. I'd say the wait was worth it. Can't wait to see some targets. I'm sure it's a hammer.

 

[flyright]

That's a real beauty you got going there.

 

[pmclaine]

Pictures of second coat dried. Starting to become the “tobacco brown” I seek.

Third coat I hit it with 600 wet sand and increased the tung oil.

 

[Average guy]

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Pictures of second coat dried. Starting to become the “tobacco brown” I seek.

Third coat I hit it with 600 wet sand and increased the tung oil.

It going to be stunning when done

 

[pmclaine]

The Lord provideth…..just picked up in the PX..

 

[pmclaine]

It will get two more coats using 2000 wet/dry paper.

Anyone familiar with rottenstone?

Is it worth going there?

After my final "abrasive" coats I will apply very light coats and let dry.

 

[Bigfatcock]

I wouldn’t rotten stone unless building a hard coat finish on a stock that I had grain filled.

 

[pmclaine]

I wouldn’t rotten stone unless building a hard coat finish on a stock that I had grain filled.

Seems it more like a cut for some thing with a hard sealed surface.

I see it was the "Brasso" of the day during the civil war.

Thank you you saved me a week of putting this rifle together.

 

[Bigfatcock]

Seems it more like a cut for some thing with a hard sealed surface.

I see it was the "Brasso" of the day during the civil war.

Thank you you saved me a week of putting this rifle together.

Yeah, it’s more for leveling and polishing something like a varnish finish.

Finishing wood is every bit a skill/art as making things from wood. Practice makes perfect, and your stocks have all come out well.

 

[Bigfatcock]

Another option is to level the stock out with Bondo, and then paint it FDE.